That depends on why you need to charge it, assuming the system had some type of repair done and working forward from there:
Charging a system requires you to understand the system; the low side cannot go below 35 F or the evap will freeze water and the system will fail - this is 'at engine rev' not idle. The pressures invovled are relative to temperature, the high side should NEVER go above 400, and it is normally offset by ambient temperature plus the difference of evap cooling.
Leaving the gas cap not tightly installed. Gotta be kept on and twisted fully into place. Most common reason this occurs.
It has hydraulic lifters that are known to get noisy. Mazda sells a shim set that can be installed under each lifter to reduce clearance so that the lifters don't require as much pump-up travel. The lifters are located in the ends of the rocker arms, replacing or shimming them requires the removal of part of the intake plenum. You can also buy new lifters in the aftermarket for about $20. each, but there is 12 so it's not exactly cheap.
Since no model year was given for the Mazda 5, here is the general procedure for brake light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement brake light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement brake light bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for brake light bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).
Very easy, but slightly time consuming. An impact wrench will save you some time and frustration. First you must remove the large cross member that runs under the muffler. It is held in with 4 large bolts and are usually tough to get out. Next you have to remove 1 of the exhaust pieces (the one that runs under the oil pan). The exhaust section is held in place in 3 places (3 nuts near the front of the car, 2 nuts on a support bracket, and 2 nuts closer to the muffler). Once these are all off you need to remove the exhaust section. It can be tough to get off but just keep at it. Now that everything is off the oil pan is exposed. Remove all the 13mm bolts and the 2 14mm ones that go in horizontal. It should fall off once all the bolts are off. If not just tap it a couple of times. Clean both surfaces with brake cleaner and install the new gasket. Reverse process and your done. Total time should range from 1-3 hrs.
Caution: This oil pan is fragile/weak. It is cast rather than steel so if you over tighten the bolts you might crack the oil pan. Oil pan bolts do not get tightened very much. About 1/2 turn more than finger tight.
Mazda issued recalls for 2002-2003 MPV Fan Control Module. It consistently went bad. I have a 2004 MPV, and though it was not a part of the recall, the cooling fan began behaving erratically several weeks ago. It would seem to run loudly and often even when idling and whether or not the A/C was on. It would even run loudly when the van was first turned on and the engine was still cold. It would often continue to run even after the engine was turned off and the key removed.
After doing some research, I concluded that the fan control module must have failed in mine like so many other people's did. I found replacement parts for around $20 plus shipping online, or about $30 from the local dealer.
It took about an hour or so to replace on my own. 1) Disconnect the battery and remove it from the engine compartment. 2) Remove the pedestal that the battery sits on (it's connected with four bolts). 3) Disconnect the old FCM from it's mounting (two bolts). 4) Disconnect the three cable from the old FCM (I found it easier to use a small regular screwdriver to press down on the interior connector 'fingers" from the direction opposite the cables). 5) Reconnect the cables, then the mounting bolts, reinstall the battery pedestal and the battery.
This seems to have fixed the problem. No more high running fans or running while the engine is off. I only hope the replacement part doesn't similarly go bad...
Smokers are designed with vents on both the top and bottom of the smoker unit. Typically, the bottom vents are used to fan or fuel the flame inside. Adjusting the bottom vent either flames your fire or smolders it. The top vents are the ones that are typically used to control the heat inside the smoker. The more you open the vents, the more heat will escape out. The tighter you keep them closed, the more the heat will remain inside the smoking unit.
Going on the 3.0 L 4 wheel drive model the alternator is actually removable without removing the axle or lifting the engine as I've read over and over. Remove the bolts on the alternator. Remove the belt. You will likely have to remove the belt assembly in front of the lower mounting bolt. Remove the two connecting wires and viola, easily lifted out. Brush change is the likely option to fix the regulator. If the voltage regulator is at fault, apparently this isn't servicable and the whole unit will have to be replaced.
I have a 90 MPV and also the shop manual (a real one) and I did not find a reset button in the manual or the vehicle. The later model MPV may have one.
I don't have the least idea but it should tell you in your owners manual. Just about all auto owner manuals show how to change various bulbs and other pretinent data. Wish I could tell you more. With the liftgate open, you can see 2 screws on the black flange of the fixture that you must remove. Once the screws are out, bang the fixture with the palm of your hand sideways away from the vehicle. eg for the right fixture bang right. This is because it's held in by 2 snap pins aimed laterally into the vehicle and using another direction could break one. That'll do it, the fixture is out and you can see the sockets on the back of it.
Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem
MPVclub.com has a somewhat detailed description on how to do it. If you remove the plastic you will expose three of the six. Then you have to remove the plenum/manifold. Check out the details on the website. Hope this helps.
Remover center bench seat. Lift the carpet and mat up. You will see a long shiny plate. Remove the screws and the adjustment is under ther plate. firstname.lastname@example.org
The general way if you are only changing pads on a 2 wheel drive vehicle. The first thing is to use the right box socket and remove the wheel(after you jack up and place the vehicle on jack stands). Then u locate the caliper retainer bolts usually two of them take them off, slide the caliper out of the rotor.The next step is to take off the caliper or pad retainer. Then you have to take the rotor out and get it resurfaced (napa, national etc). Then reinstall the rotor, the retainer and install pads in the pad retainer(make sure you tighten the caliper and retainer bolts), use a c clamp and seat the caliper piston in, slide the caliper onto the rotor. Then install the wheels and make sure you tighten the lug nuts evenly in a criss sross pattern. The final and most important thing is to pump the brake pedal several times before you test drive the vehicle. If u need more specific info please let me know your e mail address and i will send you your vehicle specific details. I will need to know the year make model engine size 2 or 4 wheel drive and the vin number.
most likely would be a leak in the cooling system or a bad thermostat or a bad water pump or posably a blown head gasket. check your oil if it is foamy and a white creamish coler than its the head gasket
You have to remove the window handle which sould be held there by a little clip in the back.Also remove armrest (handle), the inside cover is removed by inserting a flat screwdriver in behind it and popping the clips out or just pulling on it should work.Answer2003 MPV LX - driver door panel removal
1)Remove screw at inside door handle (has plastic cover) 2)Remove screw in elec window control (has plastic cover) 3)Pop entry light cover - remove screw about 3 inches in. 4)Remove Philips head plastic screws gently at rear of door. There are 2. 5)Pop panel off (pop-in connectors)
2006 MPV ES - passenger door panel removal
Same as 2003 MPV LX driver door panel above except step 2. There is no screw in the electric window control. Rather there is a screw in the door release latch assembly (behind plastic cover). The rest is the same. However, I would add that you pull it out at the bottom until all the pop-in connectors are free, and then you slide it up.
You'll need a factory manual, for that. Try Ebay, I got a 90 complete set for $40
There is a coolant temperature sensor and a temperature gauge sensor. the coolant sensor is located on driver side of the cylinder head. screws right into it, and the temperature gauge sensor is on the front side of the cylinder head right under the distributor. hope this helps
I had the upper intake gaskets replaced at a cost of $181.00 but this also included new spark plugs. Two intake gaskets $18.50
Its a bear to do, you have to remove the center console also the panel for the glove box. The in-out hoses must be detached from the heater core. You dissaemble unit that houses the core and blower fan. Be prepared with plenty of rags and muscle ointment, rags for driping coolen, ointment for a sore back from reaching back to the firewall and crawling on the floor to remove the core. It would be a good idea to get a manual with pictures and diagrams to help do this.
Are your dash light off also? Is that circuit blowing fuses? If your not blowing fuses, then your turn signal/headlight switch is going bad. It cost abour $60 for a new one which is a sub unit of the column levers used to activate light/wipers/lights/headlights. Don't let them sell you the whole unit, it cost about $300.
Just follow the lower radiotor hose to the motor on the drivers side it's inside some kind of cup. That's on a V6 ENGINE.
But where is the FUEL filter located? The oil filter is located on the bottom front of the engine midway between the two front wheels. There is a black plastic guard located under the radiator remove three of the five screws and look up under the black plastic guard. It will be pointing directly at you.
This is for a 2002 model, but I would assume they are pretty much the same.
1. Pop off the plastic screw cover behind the inside door handle and remove screw. 2. Pop off the plastic screw cover in the recessed area where you grab the door to close it and remove screw. 3. Remove two (or possibly more) plastic screws around outside edge of door panel. 4. Pop out the plastic light cover near the bottom of the door.
The door panel should now come off. It will probably be connected with the wire for the mirror if you have power mirrors. To replace, reverse the steps above. Sorry if I left something out. I did mine by trial and error and ended up breaking the plastic light cover because I forgot about it.
Updated on 11-13-2010 for a 2005 Mazda MPV LX model:
It was the same, with where the screws were located. (Thank you!) Our model had 2 plastic screws on the edge of the door, one on top and one on bottom.
The mirror was held on by 3 nuts; make sure you have an extension bar for your socket wrench, or scrape your knuckles.
Here's the tricky part:
The cord for the new mirror is about an inch or so SHORTER than the mirror part that you'll be replacing. I ended up popping off the riveted clamp that held the electrical connector, and rerouting it so they would be able to reach each other.
There's a black sticky 'goo' glue keeping the plastic stuck to the door. Just make sure you seal that back properly & tightly.
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