I am not a mechanic by any means, but a nice mechanic at Tires Plus showed me where the Constant Relay Module was yesterday. Of course, that was after they sold me a freon boost and let me drive away without telling me that my air conditioning still did not work. I had to call back the next day to receive an estimate of $340.00 to have a new module installed. From what the mechanic showed me and told me - The module is located on the driver's side, front section of the engine compartment below the air filter. You must unclip and remove the air filter/intake cowling. Look straight down and you should see the little black box or module. You pull out the old one and install the new one, making sure that the pins match. From my reading, you probably need a screwdriver to remove the the screws holding it down. If you are handy with circuits, switches, and soldering, you may be able to repair the module itself, using a relay switch ($4.75) from Radio Shack or just a soldering iron ($ 0.00). Do an Internet search on relay switch, soldering, CCRM, Radio Shack, etc and you should find a detailed explanation of the process. Good luck, CWB

The Direct Clutch Speed Sensor is on top of the transmission (in front of the driver) and secured by a 12mm bolt to the transmission casing. It looks like a vertical black tube with an arm that extends toward the driver with the bolt at the end. The top of the tube has a black connector plugged onto it with two wires that join a major wiring harness a few inches away.

That's because your car is equipped with a light sensor that works in that way; after a few seconds the lights will go off. Any more questions?, please feel free to contact me at alg11@televicable.net.mx

There isn't much information in that question. Is it cranking? If not, it could be battery, battery terminals, starter, keyswitch, neutral safety switch... who knows what else. If it's cranking but not catching, always go back tot he basics; compression, ignition and fuel. If any one of the three isn't there, it won't run. First and easiest, check the ignition. Find a spare sparkplug, pull a single plug wire from the engine, connect the sparkplug to the wire, lay the plug on a solid piece of metal and crank the engine to see if you have a good strong spark. If not, track it down. If you have spark, go on to fuel. Try a little starting fluid to see if you can get it to start briefly. If it starts with starting fluid you probably have a fuel delivery problem. If it won't start with starter fluid run a compression test.

Best ways are if you can see exposed cable underneath the truck, go underneath and yank down on the cable as hard as you can. If the parking brake isn't needed or you just need to free the brake to move the truck and can go get it repaired if necessary, cut the cable back by the brake and the brake will release. Shouldnt cost more that 150 bucks to get a new e-brake installed.

Yes gran caravan use 31th or 41te The bell housing on a 3.0L is unique and will not interchange.

The Mercury Villager and Nissan Quest are basically the same vehicle. The radiator is cooled by an electric fan and thermostat. If either of these are malfuntioning, that could be the cause. Otherwise, all of the normal things such as low coolant, bad water pump, clogged radiator, bad radiator hoses, bad thermostat,and incorrect timing could all cause the engine to overheat.

According to the 2001 Mercury Cougar Owner Guide :

The fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) is in the drivers foot well ,

behind the kick panel ( there is an access hole )

You have to figure out first, is it getting spark? Is it getting fuel? Have you disconnected a spark plug wire and cranked engine? Have you checked fuel pressure? . Start there first and get back. Need more info to help you.

Chrysler vehicles have a clicking sound when the starter is bad. It must be replaced, Sometimes they can be lighty smacked with a blunt object and will work for a while but will still need replaced..

try looking at your battery terminals if they are loose or broken

<< palmboy 051605>>

Well, ...

For a 1994 Lumina APV (3.8L), simply rotate the tensioner using a long adjustable or simlilar wrench (for torque) or tratchet/socket counter-clockwise. The tensioner is pulley-like mechanism between the power steering pump and the water pump. Once rotated, there will be slack in the belt to remove it from the remaining components.

Use the diagram (sticker) inside the hood cabin (near radiator) as a reference for routing the replacement belt. Position belt and rotate tensioner to provide slack for final belt placement (over alternator pulley) and release tensioner.

This is probably a similar procedure for your 1993 APV.

PB

If you have a MPFI (multi port fuel injection) the injectors are either on the intake manifold or the cylinder head in either case they are usually close to where the intake manifold and cylinder head meet.There will be a fuel line feeding all injectors and a electrical plug to each one.Since I don't know what vehicle you are referring to,it is possible it has throttle body fuel injection,looks a little like a carburetor and will be on the intake manifold.

Caravan Pictures's motto is 'Spell your entertainment'.

Would have been built for R12, can be converted to R134a.

if you are installing a radio i would strongly suggest going to walmart and spending 6 dollars on a wiring harness. Make sure it is the one for your year, make and model of vehicle and also buy an installation kit. you will save yourself alot of time and frustration this way and when you are done, you will have a professional install. the wiring is easy this way as all you do is match up the wires

I have a 1993 dodge grand caravan, and have taken the alternator off of the bracket, but it will not fit down the back of the motorand under the fire wall. I have tried to remove the alternator bracket , but it looks as though it is trapped behind the tensioner pulley. I don't see how to remove the pulley bracket and don't know if this will work at all. What a crazy design! I hope someone out there can help.

if you look under your hood, on the drivers side you should see a black box for fuses it should be right there and labeled.

check out fuse #5. The link below is an excellent diagram of the fuse box for a 2004 Dodge GC. I blew the fuse with a small compressor while inflating tires. My brother in law was researching my prob w/ me & he found a source that tied fuse #14 to the radio as well if #5 doesn't get it.

I have the same problem on an '89 Dodge Dynasty. I am told that the odometer and speedometer in my car are driven by separate cables and that I simply need a new cable for my odometer to function properly again. I have not verified this information, but it might get you on track.

It is located in your distributor.

Take off the distributor cap.

Take off the rotor.

You will see it underneath there, its got a magnet piece.

Also, to make things more clear,

It is where the electrical connection plugs into on the side of the distributor.

That is the cam sensor.

Movements in your car's motor causes your car to move slightly from side to side. When the engine is running, the movements are so fast that the car is balanced - it doesn't have a chance to move to one side before the opposite force moves it back the other way. When you turn the engine off, these forces slow down and as the engine stops running the forces from side to side get slower until they actually move the car for a moment - and it shakes from one side to the other until the engine stops.

#1 -25 amp rear wiper & washer, #2 -15 amp radio, radio clock illum, lighter, dome lamp, #3 -empty, #4 -15 amp flash to pass, #5 -25 amp blower motor, #6 - 30 amp circuit breaker power windows, #7 -2 amp anti-lock breaks, #8 -20 amp turn signal flasher, #9 - 10 amp radio, courtesy lights, glove box, cargo, dome lamps, #11 -25 amp headlamp delay module, horns, #13 -20 amp power door locks, #15 -15 amp Instrument Panel lamps, clock, radio / clock illumination, rear lamps, front lamos, #16 - 30 amp circuit breaker powwer seats, trailer tow, #17 -7.5 amp inst. cluster gauges, headlamp delay module, chime module, #18 -25 amp heated rear window, #19 -5 amp instrument panel lamps, #20 -5.5 amp circuit breaker windshield wiper / windshield washer.

Most voyagers' starters are located one the left bank of the block on (the side closest to the radiator) right below the exhaust manifold against the transmission case where it bolts to the engine. the 3 bolts holding it on bolts come through the transmission case and in some cases the lower engine mounting braket depending on year and engine size of your particular application threaded side of the bolts pointing toward the front of the engine (passengers side of car) Be sure to disconnect the battery prior to removing it or any electrical leads attached. good luck!

In the cooler weather we are having, they will probably take longer to come on.

The side effect though has been the temperature guage spiking big time. Only spikes during city traffic, not highway. Oil is fine, radiator fluid is fine. Just those stupid fans don't ever fire up.

If you've got a 4.0 litre engine than you've got a Automatic belt tensioner on the engine. Sits to the right of the alternator. If your belt is loose, than you need to check that the belt is on properly on all the pulleys, or if you have the right belt. If the belt was made for a motor with A/C and yours doesn't have that, then the belt will be to long. Check with your local auto part supply store. Hope this helps...... For info on how to route the belt, get a chiltons manuel and it will have a diagram.