Use a 13/16 plug socket, a 1" or 1.5" extension and a regular 3/8 ratchet. Do Not use anything longer for an extension. Place a light about midways under the car. Follow the exhaust pipe into the doghouse and look directly above the manifold you will see only two plugs, the third (#1)will have to be found by touch. you will need to slide pretty far behind the engine to be able to reach straight up into the exhaust doghouse and you can easily touch the #3 and #5 plug. Remove them using the ratchet and short extension but be sure to have the handle pointed to the drivers side of the van. The #1 plug can be found by crooking your hand around and over the exhaust doughnut. You will need to place the socket and extension onto the plug, and THEN attach the ratchet. You will have only enough swing room to ratchet the plug out one or two "clicks"at a time until it is loose enough to remove the ratchet and then use the extension by hand to turn it all the way out. When replacing, use the socket ONLY to place the plug back into the head until you can no longer turn it, then insert the SHORT, (very short a 2" is too long) extension, then attach the ratchet. Tighten until around 20 ftlbs.
If you have access to an air ratchet it makes things very nice as you only have to hold it and squeeze the trigger in a tight spot like the #1 If you use an air ratchet, you will need to use a 1" extension ONLY, anything longer will cause the ratchet to strike the intake plenum.
I just did this job in about 20 minutes. I removed NOTHING except for the plugs and wires themselves. I used a regular Craftsman 3/8 ratchet, craftsman 13/16 plug socket, and a china made 12" & 1.5" extension.
This guy wrote the method that i used yesterday. It worked very well, as he described. My first attempt was to remove wipers etc. and go to the back 3 plugs from the top. I ran into the glued on drain pipes from that bucket and quit that attempt, and went to the back 3 plugs from the bottom. If you can get the car high enough to use a creeper, you'll be glad you did. Or use an assistant to pass you what you need and feed the new spark plug wires to you. I didn't have either, and my back is pretty sore.... The impact wobble is key. Get one, their about $8.99 for 2 (3/8, & 1/2") at Harbor Freight. You'll still need the 1" and/or 1 1/2 " extensions. I also used a 1/4" rachet when possible, adapting it to fit the 3/8" impact wobble. Works good for wrenching the plugs out after they're broke loose. I did 3 plugs at a time, removing 3 wires at a time. It got the wires out of the way, and was helpful.... If you do this here's the spark plug firing order or how to put the spark plug wires back on information: When standing on the passenger side of the van, where the fan belt is, the pistons on the left side or back of engine, are numbered 1, 3, 5 (1 is closest to you, 3 in middle, 5 is on drivers side). On the right side of the engine, or front of the van they're numbered 2, 4, 6 (2 is on passengers side, 4 is in middle, & 6 is on drivers side). The coil pack on my van is already numbered, just brush the dirt off and put the number 1 piston's spark plug wire to the #1 pin on the coil pack, etc. In case yours isn't numbered, here's the numbering of the coil pack from top left, across to the top right is 3, 1, 5, and then from bottom left, to bottom right is 6,4,2. If you use the fancy new wires with the metal around the spark plug boots, I had trouble with it on the number #1 plug. I kept bending the metal guard around the boot. So i finally took the metal guard off and threw it away. Then that last wire went on very easily.... The spark plug wire guide/holder above the exhaust on the back was easy to use. It was shaped like the letter C and worked like a spring loaded clamp. Just pull the old wire out the opening, and push the new wires in.... I , Good Luck to you on your Tune-Up! P.S. I used Autolite APP646 double platinum - copper core 100,000 mile plugs on the last tune up, and again this time. I recommend changing them at 90,000 miles, before the platinum disks start falling off.... I put 101,000 miles on my last tuneup, and it began running rough at 100,300 miles or so.... Also, these are nickel plated plugs, so, the proper anti-seize to use is "nickel anti-seize." You can get it at Grainger, or online. The local parts store did NOT have it. Reason is, they claim, most anti-seize products contain copper, a 3rd metal between your aluminum head, and nickel spark plug. The THIRD METAL causes the anti-seize to act as a lubricant more so than as an anti-seize, causing your spark plugs to loosen up as you drive..... So, when using autolite plugs, anti-seize is probably good. But, Nickel Anti-Seize is Better....
Points to remember.
#5 and #3 can be removed with or without an extension using a 3/8 ratchet.
#1 must be removed using a 1" or 1.5" extension. Anything longer will only frustrate you as it will strike the intake plenum before you can back the plug all the way out. Anything shorter will not allow you to swing the ratchet or even get it onto the plug.
#1 is hard to see and it is much faster doing it by touch.
You must slide far enough under the vehicle. lay on your RIGHT side and even prop your body up on something to allow your LEFT hand to reach all the way up to the #1.
When working in tight spots it is always easier to place the socket onto the nut, plug etc., and then install the extension or whatever else you are using to remove the bolt plug etc.
Keep the ratchet handle pointed to the left at all times.
DO not try to attach the ratchet extension and socket before slipping the socket over the plug. It will not fit, place the socket on the plug, install the extension, and then the ratchet both for removing and installing the plug.
An IMPACT wobble makes this job VERY easy. don't use a regular wobble extension they have to much wobble to be useful. The IMPACT wobble can be picked up at your favorite auto super store for about 15 bucks.
(Autozone didn't have a 3/8" impact wobble, Harbor Freight did [$8.99]).
Josh Carmack Self taught professional mechanic.
I'm glad I found your answer. The 1.5" extension IS the key. This procedure works folks. I didn't have an air ratchet available and the plugs were in pretty tight. The #1 plug is definitely the toughest, and next time, I will do it first. In my case, I did it last and by the time I attempted it, my arms were beginning to cramp from the awkward position required to complete the task. So I cheated...I went ahead and removed the alternator bracket and serpentine belt. It wasn't that much easier to get the # 1 out from the top. This job CAN be done without unbolting anything, but do the #1 first.
BUY THE BEST PLUGS AVAILABLE. Given the age of these vans, you may never have to do it again.
The easiest way actually takes a bit longer than trying to get at them from below. Going from below is a great way to tear up your hands.
Go from the top by removing the windshield wiper tub assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector to the wiper motor and lift the whole tub assembly out. This portion of the job will take about 1/2 hour, but it opens up the whole back end of the engine so you can reach the plugs and the wires.
The rear ones are bad but not impossible. If you remove the bracket that stabilizes the alternator (the one that lies horizontal at the top of the engine) you can get to the rear two that are on the passenger side. If you go from underneath the plug on the drivers side is quite accessible (also the middle one is not bad from underneath)
After researching various methods of approach to changing the 3 rear plugs on a 2000 Dodge Caravan 3.3 liter, my brother and I combined three different ways making the job easier but still time consuming. One way said to remove an alternator bolt, so the alternator can be swiveled out of the way, enabling you to reach the plugs from the top side. Another method said to remove the windshield wipers, wiper cowl and wiper motor to access them from the top side. The last was to lift the van, and reach up from the bottom. Upon studying the situation and the amount of room realistically provided by each method, we decided to do the following which worked out well and proved to be simple. First, remove the windshield wipers, wiper cowl and the entire wiper rack. This all comes off as one unit and is very easily done with no hidden bolts or screws. Once that is done, you will see where the alternator is bolted on the top left side of the engine. It is bolted to a large vertical bracket which is also bolted to another horizontal bracket. (these brackets form a 90 degree angle) Remove the smaller horizontal top bracket only (not the alternator itself). Again easily done. Now for the fun.... Jack up the front end of the van and rest it on jack stands. On a creeper from the front roll back about 1/3 of the van length until you can see where the exhaust angles up and connects to the motor. There you will see the catalytic converter, a heat shield above it and beyond those where the plug wire connect to the plugs. Remove the 4 small bolts holding the heat shield on, and then the heat shield itself. One of these small bolt is a pain to get to but this will give you a very valuable couple of extra inches of wiggle room. Now you can reach up along side the exhaust and get to all three plugs. Make no mistake, it is very tight with not much room but is very do able This is done much easier if you have another person top side to slide the new plug wires down to you for you to connect after the old ones are removed. It is highly recommended to change one plug and wire at a time so you can keep track where they were connected as these have to be connected in order or else the van will constantly misfire. I started (from underneath looking up) from left to right on the plugs. On the last one (rear passenger side) I got the plug out ok, but it is a royal pain to relocate the hole with the new plug from that angle. This is where you climb out, and from the top side reach down behind the engine where you removed the top bracket by the alternator. The hole cant be seen, but is easily felt. With plug in hand reach down, find the hole and finger tighten the plug. Then put only the socket onto the plug, not the ratchet. You can put a ratchet on the plug from here, but it will take you about 2 weeks to get it tight. Once this is done, go back underneath with your ratchet and you will now be able to see the top of your socket. You will be able to attach your ratchet and tighten the plug up. Now connect your new wire, the heat shield, bracket and wiper assembly. Again, this is easily done, but very time consuming. Still better than spending $500 plus for a garage to do it.spark plug on 99 caravan
very carefully you have to go up from under the van with a stubby ratchet and put something around your arms. I just did one the other day and my arms are torn to shreds
This is a very difficult job. I did it by taking the windshield wiper assembly out and then took the intake manifold and everything attached to it loose and pulled it forward. This is also how I gained access to the upper oxygen sensor. This gives you enough room to get at the plugs fairly easily. I put in the best plugs I could find so I won't have to change them again for a long time if ever.
Easiest on a lift, but you can get to them if you pull the upper plenum off. If you can get under the van, you can reach up past the exhaust and do them.
From underneath, reach over exhaust system to access rear plugs. You will need a stubby swivel handle ratchet head and a few wobble extensions to get the job done from underneath. It is not an easy task and you will come out after a 2-hour journey with scratched up hands and wrist but it can be done from underneath. I have done it 3 times, the first time took 4 hours, now it only takes about an hour and a half. I have long arms so that may benefit me as it is a stretch. Good Luck
Use an extension for the two on your right. The one on your left is difficult, but if you use a wobble extension or swivel you should do fine. The best way to install the new plugs is to use a short piece of hose maybe eight inches that will fit over the spark plug end an inch or so. Then thread the plug three or four turns and finish with the socket. Plug in the wires. Don't forget using anti-seize on the plug threads for easy out the next time. Put the air filter box on in reverse that it came off and your done.
I changed mine when I purchased our '97 Caravan used ... I was going to try the 'reach up from below in the dark' approach but finally decided to remove the intake manifold and do it from above. Seemed like a long approach but made all three rear plugs very accessible from above and allowed me to easily clean out the plug well with air prior to removing the plugs.
Extra cost is only a manifold gasket (<$10).
Couple of hints ... remove the coil from the RH end of the manifold, the bracket at the LH end below the throttle body may be hard to remove ... be prepared.
the best way i have found to change the rear plugs is to remove the upper plenum on the intake manifold.
You can reach the ones closest to the driver's side and remove with a flex link on the socket drive. For the last one you only need to unbolt the alternator bracket to get enough room to reach in from that side. Do use platinum plugs for long life, and a tapered gap checker so you don't ruin them. It isn't really that hard, but it is enough extra work that you don't want to do it again any sooner than absolutely necessary. This is also the time to change the wires. These engines will misbehave for bad plugs, bad wires, and for poor wire placement - unexplained hesitations, misfires, poor mileage. Use good parts and use extra care with the wire routing.
The front 3 plugs are removed in minutes naturally. It is the back three that are difficult. By driving the front tires on blocks you can slide underneath the minivan and reach the drivers side rear plug as well as the middle plug next to it. You may scratch your hands and arms a bit, but it can be done. The rear plug on the passengers side was the tough one for me. I moved the Alternator bracket, which you don't actually have to remove completely, but you can remove three bolts, then loosen the one directly to the alternator and push the bracket upwards out of the way. Even with this opening the difficulty I had was having enough room to move a socket wrench enough to loosen the plug. What finally worked was a compressed air spark plug removal tool. If you can buy or rent one if these, it will make the job much simpler.
From underneath. Safety 1st, do not support the vehicle in such a way that it can possibly fall on you.
For a 1999 Grand Caravan, I change the aft 3 plugs from behind and underneath. Seems like 2 are fairly easy, maybe 30 minutes, but the last one is tough, maybe took an hour or so of fiddling around and figuring out the right tool combination (extensions/swivel joints). Put the front wheels up on ramps so you can maneuver from underneath.
I have a '98 Caravan, 3.3. What I did was remove the intake because I also needed to change the valve cover gaskets. This was the easiets way to do it all. Also removed the wiper pan...had tons of room to do everything.
body control module needs to be reprogramed with new udated software. i think you have to go to a dealership
It is possible that the body controller (which handles the locks) has "lost its mind." You can reset it by removing its power for a couple minutes. This can be accomplished by either 1) disconnecting the battery (may reset some other settings of your vehicle) OR 2) pulling the IOD fuse in the fuse box under the hood (called the Integrated Power Module or IPM in the manual). I used this second method successfully after the power door locks just stopped working. The switch on the door wouldn't even operate the locks.
"To NON MECHANICAL PEOPLE LIKE ME: flip the fuse box lid for a map of the fuses. it's the one on the bottom right"
I just reset my door locks by pulling out and putting back in the IOD fuse. The IOD fuse is mapped on the menu of the box lid. Hope this helps!
The IOD fuse is located in the fuse box which is in the engine compartment on the driver's side. The inside of the fuse box cover shows the location/names/amps of the fuses. The 20amp IOD fuse is on the lower left corner of the fuse panel when looking at the panel from the driver side.
Chrysler has released a software fix for the door locks on there vans. The dealer can flash the BCM to prevent this problem from reoccurring.
If equipped with abs the pump is located on top of the transmission.
The Vehicle Speed sensor is located on the side of the transmission. You would be best to remove the battery tray and air intake plenum to see it. Trace the fuse block wire going to the back of the transmission. it will be located on the Left side (looking at the motor) after the ribs pointing back at you. It should have one mount screw and when you pull it out it will have a magnet on the end of the sensor.
To replace the VSS, disconnect the electrical connector remove retaining bolt and it should fall right out.
Simple once you see it. that's half the battle.
Open the rar hatch and you will see a carpet flap,open your jack compartment to the left side and use the jack wrench to lower the tire by turning it counter clockwise. When lowered and loose it can be removed, Go in reverse to put it back
Depending on the year and model/trim of your car, there are two possibilities here.
If the information console (the overhead console in which the map light is located) does NOT have a built-in garage door opener, then you can simply grab the front end of the console, and pull down. This will remove the console, and expose the light bulbs which can easily be replaced.
If the console DOES have a built-in garage door opener, then you must locate a small screw that is towards the windshield. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screw, and then pull off the faceplate to expose the bulbs.
Whatever you do, NEVER use a flat head screwdriver to pry the console off. Use your hands only. Using screwdrivers just gouges the plastic or tears the head-liner on your car, and makes it look like a botched job.
This is the correct protocal for a 2000 300M.
It is under the hood, over the top of the passenger side strut tower, in the firewall.
The radio fuse is in the fuse box on the driver's side in the engine bay, just behind the battery. On the fuse box lid you'll see a diagram showing the location of each fuse and its function. The radio fuse should be denominated "RDO" on the diagram and controls your radio and the front accessory power outlet (possibly other features, but I'm not sure). It is a 20A fuse and is yellow in color. You'll probably need some needle nose pliers to remove it.
The oil pump is in the timing chain cover. The oil pan, pickup tube, and chain cover has to come off. Once the chain cover is removed you can remove the oil pump cover. The cover should be checked with a straight edge to be completely flat.
You can then replace the inner and outer rotor and reassemble.
The relief spring valve should also be checked but I'm not sure of the specifications for that.
The oil pump is a fairly high precision and involved job.
Under the hood next to the battery.
It's in the engine compartment, top right on the drivers side.
Engine stalls several times right after filling tank with gas, Chrysler Minivan
Shops are reporting a problem with the gas tank on Dodge Caravan, Grand Caravan, Plymouth Voyager, and Town and Country vans. Shortly after refueling, drivers experience engine stalling. The stalling may repeat several times.
The problem is the vapor/liquid separator valve located at the top of the fuel tank. The valve is designed to prevent liquid fuel from entering the charcoal canister/emissions system. When the valve fails, liquid gas can enter the line and fill the charcoal canister.
After refueling the PCM on the vehicle detects a change in fuel level. Then, when the engine meets certain temperature and driving criteria, the PCM issues a purge command to the charcoal canister to remove the stored gas vapors. It's at that point that all the liquid gas in the line gets sucked into the charcoal canister. The PCM expects to see gas vapors entering the intake manifold and it is prepared to adjust air/fuel mixtures to compensate. However, it is not prepared to see liquid gas coming into the intake. That's what causes the engine to stall.
Unfortunately, the ONLY fix is to replace the entire gas tank. Chrysler does NOT sell the vapor/liquid valve as a separate unit. Once the tank is replaced and the charcoal canister purged, the problem goes away.
of course u can u can add a gps system to any vehicle its just a matter of how much u want to spend and what kind of a system u want the last time i looked cruthfield will explain what kind of parts u need to use for your vehicle and from there u can go to any site for the parts good luck
The best way to know if there are any open recalls to call the local dealer with the VIN number. They are required to tell you of any open recalls.
On a 1999 it is bolted to the body way below the air cleaner.
5w30 or 10w30
5w30 or 10w30
Remove the inner door panel & you should be able to manually work the inner rods that control the operations of the latch assembly. If that doesn't work, I have had to actually do the above, & physically kick the rear section relatively hard to free up a lower rear latch mechanism that sometimes becomes rusted & will not allow the door to open.
The previous answer is true as far as it goes. But I'm sure you have a power mirror which means you have to disconnect the electrical connector. To do that, you will have to remove the door trim panel. Start by removing the screws in the armrest. IF you see any circular pieces of plastic that don't seem to serve any purpose, pop them off, they're hiding additional screws. Then, starting at the bottom of the trim panel, insert a flat blade screwdriver or a trim panel removal tool and start popping off the plastic retainers. Work around all the edges until the door panel lifts up and out. Then you can gain access to the electrical connectors.
I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/
Remove the screw holding the molding under the mirror.you should see two screws under the mirror to take it off.
The pros remove the windshield washer assembly. You do that by removing the windshield wiper arms. Then you remove the screws that hold in the cowling. Then you remove the bolts that hold the wiper tub assembly in place. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the tub. That gives you access to the entire rear part of the engine. You won't have to break knuckles or cuss. It takes about 20 minutes to remove the tub, but it's worth it. Going in from the bottom is the hard way to do this job.
I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/
Hey Linda==It is extremely hard to get to these plugs. With an assortment of u-joints and extensions it is possible. Don't copmplain the next time you get a high bill for changing the plugs. GoodluckJoe
The 3 spark plugs located on the front (radiator side of the engine are relatively easy to get at and should be able to be removed & replaced in about 15 minutes. A standard 3/8" rachet & plug socket work just fine. If the metal heat shields (round tubes) that cover the plugs are difficult to remove - (over time they bind to the head) the socket can be placed inside the tube after removing the plug wire.
The 3 plugs on the back side of the engine can be accessed from the back under the vehicle. I drove the van on ramps and reached up. There is room to see & get the wrench on the plugs. In my case all the plugs came out easy.
The most difficult part of the job, for me, was removing the heat shields which really didn't have to come off.
NEW: As a weekend, driveway mechanic and armed with this useful info, I changed my 95 T&C van plugs on 4/29/06, and it went much easier then expected. Need to do this with a cold engine so I parked the van the night before on drive-up ramps. This is important because plugs should be installed with a cold engine and the rear three plugs are best accessed from below and you want the exhaust pipes cold because you will be working around them. Front three plugs are easy with socket extension, I used 6" for leverage, no need to remove heat shield. Also used a $5.00 spark plug wire puller wrench for better leverage and after some slight twisting at the boot to losen from plug, plug wires backed off with little effort.
Two rear plugs nearest drivers side have good access space from below. Rear plug nearest passenger side, more difficult to access but I removed the lower generator support brace which is directly in front of this plug and now had good access to remove the plug wire. Losen and remove two nuts, back brace off block and generator and job becomes much easier. Short socket wrench extension was used to gain necessary clearance and leverage to losen the old plugs and tighten the new with torque wrench. 1 and 1/2" and 3" extensions worked well. Rear plug wires need some twisting by hand first at the boot, not the wire, before you can back off the plug. This took some time because of the angle you are working at, but they do back off. Good light makes job easier because some of this work on the rear plugs is done by feel and seeing only the top half of the old plug and the angle which they are seated in the block will make install of new plugs easier.
I looked at trying to change the plugs from the top and found it easier and far less complicated by going from the bottom up using my creeper and a pillow for additional neck support and back lift. The angle you are working at and the length of time spent in this position will cause certain muscles to react. Wear eye protection to block out dust and falling dirt and an old shirt with long sleves because this protects your arms from being cut as you manipulate your tools. I put a small amount of anti-sieze compound on new plug thread before each install and added a small amount of dielectric grease into wire boot for good plug connection and to help with backing boot off the next time. all who are looking at this project as a weekend mechanic.
Here's the procedure for reseting the indicator:
1. Turn the ignition to the on position, but don't start the vehicle
2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal fully 3 times within 10 seconds
3. Turn the ignition switch
to the off position
If it doesn't reset on your first try perform the procedure again, it's somewhat tricky the first couple times you do it.
Below the glove box near the center console is a black plastic box that contains the filter. Slide the door toward rear of vehicle and then swing door down to get to the filter. You can see the filter after opening the door.
at the spot where door is suppose to be is only the evaporator box, any more suggestionsAnotherAt the very bottom of the big black box, there are two clips that open a door, the filter slides out the bottom. It is a tight fit, it took me a little coaxing. it slides down and out toward the floor.
The PVC valve is located (looking in the engine compartment) on the right side close to the throttle body back side of the intake manifold. There is an air hose that follows the back of the intake manifold from left to right . At the intersection, )back right side) where the hose mates to another. there is an off white or metal object in line of the hose. This is the PVC valve.
There is no circuit breaker. CHeck your fuse box relay (passenger side next to glve compartment)make sure no fuses are blown. Each window has its own relay circuit module. If one of the windows will not roll down or up, simply remove the relay (switch) and replace it. for starters, remove the door panel from driver side and passenger side. remove one of the (switches) that rolls the window up and down, and swap them out. that will test to see it its faulty or not. best thing to do is go to autozone or parts house and order it..they are cheap
open hood.....Look inside where the headlight is located. you should see a connector. rotate it counterclockwise and it should release. Once out you'll see the bulb. turn it counterclockwise and replace it.
reverse for installation
Far as i know you have to remove the over head lights in the console and there should be screws in the roof holding the Overhead Console!! if not let me know i will dismantle one and let you know...AnswerThese vary from year to year, I have an 02 and have not been able to get a straight answer on console removal myself. I am trying to replace light bulbs in the console. The 02 has a single screw in the rear portion when you open the Eyeglass holder (A drop down door). One site said to remove that screw and just pull down, the entire housing will then "pop" out. I tried this and after putting quite a bit of downward force I stopped in fear of breaking something, it simply didn't feel right, was sure something would break. AnswerYou're right about removing the screw under the glasses door and pulling down. There are two clips about 4" in front of the screw and it takes quite a bit of pull to release them but make sure you pull from the rear of the console because the front is inserted into the headliner frame so the console pivots down hinging on the front after the screw and two clips are released. It helps to release one side at a time.
The advice to remove the screw under the glasses door and pulling down firmly was a big help to me. Here's some additional info that may be helpful. I have a 2007 T&C, basic, bottom -of-the-line model. Bought it used. The lamps had melted the plastic so I could not replace the bulbs. Had to replace what Chrysler calls the "module Bulb," to the tune of $87 and tax. Step 1: disconnect the battery. 2. remove the screw under the glasses door. 3. The clips are about 6 1/2 inches from the rear of the console. As you pull down firmly to release the clips, you may be able to use a putty knife to help release the clip. 4. To remove the black electric connection plug on the right rear of the console, insert a very thin screwdriver at the top of the connector to push down the small plastic retainer clip; then pull out the plug. 5. To disconnect the wire connector plug on the left front of the console, use a small screwdriver to push up on the retainer clip that is on the bottom of the plug. 6. Use a T10 bit to remove the ten screws in the build module. It's very helpful to have someone help when you are removing the electrical connectors.
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