You need a press, my advice is to go to NTB or sears and pay the 65 bucks to have this done right and fast takes no longer than an hour
yes , or 4 wheel drive
== == Go to the Allpar.com site and search for an article by Rodger Koppa on how to do this nasty little job. Did it on both my doors, be prepared to cuss a bit. After you install the new handles you can forestall future breakage by just popping the lkatch with the handle, and then using the edge of the door to swing the door open. Those dinky plastic handles just can't take the side torque with those heavy doors! I used the directions provide by Rodger Koppa to repl;ace my passenger side door handle and it works great. Like he says though be prepared to cuss a little bit and just hope you don't drop anything into the door. Good Luck!!
Hey Tina==It is a burned out bulb that is the problem. Find out if it is front or rear and take the light assy off and change the bulb from the rear. If you told me what kind of car you have and model, I may could have been more specific. GoodluckJoe If you have a W126 and your left marker lights stay on, try twisting your headlight switch clockwise one click, to the "off" position.
I have a 99 Chev Malibu - there were 3 bolts (which is why I had a hell of a time getting it off. Persistance! I think 1 was at the back and another towards the bottom at the back.
i most likely needs to be greased there are several grease zerts on the front end take it to an oil and lube shop and see if that doesnt fix the problem squeaking in the front end could be alot of things. your suspenion need replacing, beaings, loose bolts, or even a loose bumper. best bet is to have it looked at by a licensed mechanic
The Best way to remove and replace the old handle is to remove the door latching system there are 3 star drive screws located in the jamb, before you pull those out remove the 4 connecting rods to the latch, this will save you hours of trying to get to the top 10mm nut that is impossible to replace once off, removing the latch gives you "full access" to the top nut!
FIRST REMOVE THE WHEEL SECOND TAKE A SCREWDRIVER AND BEND THE PART OF THE LOCKNUT HOLDING THE HALFSHAFT OUT THIRD REMOVE THE NUT OFF THE STEERING ARM AND USE A BALL JOINT SPLITTER TO PULL IT APART FOURTH DO THE SAME WITH THE TIE ROD END. PRY THE HUB ASSEMBLY BACK FROM THE AXLE, BEING CAREFUL NOT TO CUT YOUR BRAKEHOSE IF THE AXLE WILL NOT GO WITHOUT MORE FORCE, HAVE SOMEONE PULL THE HUB ASSEMBLY AND HIT THE MIDDLE OF THE AXLLE WITH SOMETHING ROUND TO FORCE IT THROUGH THE HOLE, BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE SPLINE GROOVES ON THE HUB WHEN YOU HAVE THE AXLE OUT OF THE HUB ASSEMBLY, JERK THE AXLE STRAIGHT OUT OF THE TRANNY AND IT SHOULD POP OUT WHEN YOU HAVE THE NEW AXLE JUST ALLIGN THE AXLE IN THE HOLE OF THE TRANNY AND PUSH HARD, DO NOT JERK THE AXLE BACK BECAUSE IT WILL DAMAGE THE NEW ONE REPEAT THE REST OF THE STEP BACKWARDS TO REINSTALL YOUR AXLE.AdditionI had to give the axle a little more force by carefully using a screwdriver between the axle and tranny to pry the axle out. Don't use to much force since you don't want to crack the tranny. Do not forget to lubricate axle (tranny end) with a little engine oil before inserting the new axle. This prevents a dry shaft from spining the seal in the transmission.
Hey Tina==If just the left signal is staying on, it isn't the flasher. One of the bulbs, either front or rear, are burned out. Find out which one isn't working and I think you have to take the housing off of the car to change the bulb. GoodluckJoe If the bulb is not burned out, it's most likely the turn signal combination switch. The turn signal portion of it easily breaks off internally, leaving the signal in the last position (left in your case). The combination turn signal and light switch will need to be replaced. On some Montero models that can be be done without removing the steering wheel. Just removed the bottom steering wheel cover, move the steering wheel in the lowest position and remove the top cover. Then remove the two screws that keep the combination switch in place, unplug the wiring plugs (press plug release and pull out). Relative easy procedure. Buying a new switch will be the most painful part, OEM parts are expensive. Maybe you cna find a refurbished combination switch at an acceptable price.
You need a new or reman. axle, a new axle nut, the transmission fluid specified for your car, anti-seize compound, and a new boot and cotter pin for the tie rod end. The hard part is getting the axle nut loose. I can't remmeber what size it is, but you'll need a long cheater bar on a breaker bar to get it loose. Or an impact wrench, if you've got one. Once the axle nut is loose, raise the car and remove the tire. You have to unbolt the MacPherson strut where it attaches to the knuckle. You may also have to unbolt the tie rod end. Remove the tie rod end with a "pickle fork". You should be able to push the end of the axle out of the hub bearing. If you can't, apply some penetrating oil, put the OLD axle nut on the end (to protect the threads) and beat the tar out of it with a hammer until it pops loose. Make sure the knuckle is supported so that you're not just ramming the axle into the transmission when you hit it. The idea is to persuade the axle out of the bearing. Once the axle is free of the steering knuckle, you will have to pull the other end out of the differential. There is a circlip holding it in the side gear of the diff, so you may need to lever it out with a crowbar or prybar. Be careful of what you use as a fulcrum. It will come out with a slight "POP". WARNING: If you are removing BOTH axles, place a length of broomstick through each axle hole as you remove the axles. Otherwise the side gears will fall out of the differential and you'll have to tow the car to a transmission shop to get them put back in!!! Ensure that the new axle has a circlip on the end. Lubricate the splines with transmission fluid and push it into the hole, making sure that the splines line up before pushing it all the way in. When it goes in, you should hear and/or feel the circlip POP into the side gear in the differential. Coat the outside shaft spines with anti-seize compound and slide into the hub bearing. Fit the knuckle back to the MacPherson strut and tighten the bolts to spec. (Not sure what that is offhand.) Install the tie rod end with new boot, tighten to spec, and use a new cotter pin to secure the castle nut. Put on the new axle nut but do not tighten it yet. Reinstall the tire, lower to the ground, and tigthen wheel lug nuts to spec. Using a torque wrench, tighten the axle nut to spec. ...sorry I don't have the torque specs handy. But you should be able to Google those. :) Check your transmission fluid level as some will probably have spilled out the axle hole. This procedure should not require an alignment unless you remove the ball joint, lower control arm, or the entire MacPherson strut assembly.
See sources and related links below for wiper blade installation videos and for wiper blade information - the rear wiper is relatively hard to find in stores.
Each Cylinder has its own coil pack, located above and attached to spark plugs. Remove engine cover to access front three. intake manifold has to be removed to access rear three.
On a 2001 Ford Escape , 3.0 liter V6 engine :
front of vehicle > driver
So I ASSUME it would be :
Start checking out your engine and transmission mounts. Check the rubber to make sure it isn't torn.
Fuse # 12 is a 20 amp mini-fuse in the Power Distribution Box in the engine
compartment ( PD Box is " live " ) that is for the power point in a 2006 Mercury
I believe there is. I drive a 99 model. I was trying to fix my cigarette lighter last night and the owners manual indicated that there are fuse boxes in one of the side compatments in the boot (it is a touring model) and one other location. Sorry I can't be more precise but I'm away from the car right now. The fuse panel for cig. lighter is in the right rear of the trunk, above the battery.
There is a distribution box under the hood on the right side, that has some fuses, the other is under the dashboard on the left side directly under the steering wheel. In the 2008 model, the fuse box is in the center console on the passenger side. There is a panel that removes without tools and provides access to a black box. The black box cover has clips top and bottom that must be squeezed to remove the cover. Under the cover are the fuses.... unfortunately Ford chose to go with non-standard fuses.... so you need to use special fuses as replacements.
For the 2002 Ford Escape, the interior fuse box is on the left panel of the driver's foot well. It is covered by a snap off panel that also has the fuse removal tool in the bottom. On the back of the cover is a diagram (hard to see, but there) of the fuse locations by type (audio, radio, etc). Note that removing the audio and radio fuses still does not disable the CD player.
Install the new spark plug and torque it down to 15-21 ft-lb (180-252 in-lb).
Install the coil pack and torque the bolts down to 64-95 in-lb (5.33-7.2 ft-lb). Install the new spark plug and torque it down to 15-21 ft-lb (180-252 in-lb).
Install the coil pack and torque the bolts down to 64-95 in-lb (5.33-7.2 ft-lb).
Itt is not a hard job. Simply remove the vacuuum line then the 2 bolts that hold it on. Clean the carbon from the manifold where it bolts. Replace the vvalve and instaall the vac line. GoodluckJoe
Drop the oil pan. But another option if not replacing fluid filter is to take a very small clear hose and tape it to a shop vac hose, put the hose all the way down the fill spout and suck the fluid out. sugest a clean vac so you can determine the amount of fluid that came out and compare to the capacity chart, it will be less but not by much.
Drop the trans pan not the oil pan!
This is very difficult for a beginner to accomplish, however, there are 2 ways to attempt to do it. First, you can remove the bumper, battery, and entire wheel well assembly, or you can attempt to get to it from under the wheel well. The easiest way, that I have found, is to remove the bumper and the wheel well. To do this, there are several screws on the underside of the bumper; they have 10 mm heads, remove them. There are 2 10 mm screws holding the grill and bumper in place, at the top corners of the grill, remove them. there are several screws holding the wheel well to the bumper, along the outer edge of the well, remove them. They are snap in screws, so you may have to pry them out. There is one metal screw holding the wheel well to the body, at the upper, outer edge of the wheel well, remove it. There is also another snap in screw that is hidden under the wheel well. It is in the front of the well, about 14 inches up. There is a 10 mm screw that holds the front of the wheel well to another piece of molding that is attached to the underside of the vehicle. If you are looking at the front of the tire, from the outside of the well, it will be strait ahead, about 6" from the bottom of the well. Once you get this screw off, you must bend the plastic out from under the "skid plate" plastic cover. I chose not to reassemble the wheel well in this manner as it was too much of a pain to get it off. At this point, the front plastic of the wheel well should fold down. Bend it out of the way, but don't break it. Once you remove all of these screws, and move the bumper out of the way, you will be able to see the headlight assembly. There are 2 screws that hold the top of the assembly in place, one screw that holds the bottom front of the assembly in place (blocked by the bumper) and another screw that holds the far right side of the assembly in place (blocked by the bumper, almost at the wheel well) At the top, there are 2 points where the assembly snaps onto the frame, pry them up. There is 1 place, near the wheel well that is also snapped into place. Remove these screws and the headlight assembly will come out. Change the light, the mount twists out of the assembly. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. Make sure everything is snug so the screws don't back out.
Could be an ignition coil breaking down at high revs. or the points gap could also be closing at high rev. due to points bouncing..set the dwell at the higher rating Andy
you must remove the caliper for the brakes,pull off the rotor,remove the axle nut which is a 36mm socket also unbolt the bottom shock,unhook bottom ball joint, my self i took off the whole spindle there is much more room to slide the axle out.now there are six bolts on the in side of the axle the socket size is a 15mm with a long extention if you don't have a air tools loosen the bolts on the end of the axle first before you pull of the spindle so the axle wouldn't turn on you so easy,its not that hard just use common sence
It would be on the transmission pan if there is one. But I don't think the Escape has one. Nope, doesn't have one. You have to pull the transmission pan. Then you can get to the filter as well.
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