The temperature blend door actuator is the component that moves a flapper type door inside the dash that adjusts the amount of cold outside air that is mixed in with air that passes over the heater core.
It is a common issue with Windstars to fail, but is also a very straight-forward, do-it-yourself repair.
I priced this job at a dealer and it came in for around $300!
This is a really simple repair, a great choice for the do-it-yourselfer.
Here are the steps/procedures for doing this repair yourself in about 30 minutes:
Removing stuck radio
Additional information added 10-Jan-2009 by Elliott Wolin:
The instructions above worked well for me except that the radio was stuck; the removal tool did not work on the left side. The problem was that the internal metal locking tabs on the left side of the radio partially broke. I had to remove the panels below the steering column and reach in and depress what was left of the locking tab mechanism from the left side with a shorty flat-head screwdriver. Then I inserted a thin rod into the hole in the front of the radio to keep the depressed tab in place, first the top one, then the bottom. This was not particularly easy.Answer
I have a 1999 Windstar and took out the radio and it was right behind it, it is simple to do. If you can turn on the heater but only cold air comes out you should check the blend door. It controls the door to switch from cold air to hot. It sits directly behind the heater/AC controls. It is white square plastic piece (approx 3in x 5in half inch thick and has a plastic screw rod that attaches to the heater/AC controls and they strip out. Hope this helps.
This is an easy repair and most anyone with any sense of mechanics can accomplish it in less than an hour. Part is cheap at autoZone, and is not difficult at all. Pay attention to the placement of the temp control switches as they will make a difference in lining up the right place to install.little White Box
There is a small electric motor located under the dash about center. It cost about $40.00 It is sort of a flat rectangle shape with a set of wire's that plug into the side. The gear in side the motor is plastic and strips out causing a door inside the air duct to open about half way then fall back closed, it sounds like someone beating a plastic drum. Turn it on while under the dash and you should be able to locate it. It drove me crazy for a week!!!2002 Windstar Sport
I was getting a loud knocking on cold and a light and sometimes no knock on hot, but no heat was coming out. The above fix was right on, I used a cut and bent coat hanger in place of the proper tool to remove radio, and the dash trim had to come off as the radio bracket impedes the lower bolts on actuator. I unclipped wire retainers for heater/AC controls from radio bracket and the dash panel will almost sit on floor. My nut driver would not grab top bolt, instead I needed my u-joint and ratchet. Before completely removing actuator, rotate it manually to see if the blend door opens and closes (as opposed to being broken which is a much costlier fix) Total time for me was 45 minutes and a scraped knuckle.
that noise you are hearing is the blender motor, It is located behind the radio
dealer item only, about 160.00. It makes your blower go from defrost to floor
kind of hard to get to, there are three bolts that hold it onAnswer
The whole thing took about two hours. It is a very easy repair and I definitely would do it myself if I were you. The part number is: XF2Z19E616FB
I think it cost me $55 with tax and they had it in stock.
If you have a 1999 or newer then I think the layout is the same as mine.
The first thing you need to do is remove the stereo. You will need a special Ford tool for this. You can buy them at the dealership, WalMart or any auto parts store for around $5. These are a couple of 'U' Shaped pieces of metal that slide into the stereo holes. It will snap into place and you push them to the outside and slide the stereo out. Real easy. Now unplug the antenna and other cables and put the stereo somewhere.
Now you will need a socket set. I don't remember the size but it is pretty small. There are two screws at the top of the HVAC control panel. You should be able to see them after you remove the stereo. There are two more screws at the bottom of the HVAC control panel. I think you have to slide out the cup holder to get to them.
Once all of the screws are out you should be able to slid the HVAC control panel out. There are a bunch of wires and vacuum lines so just be gentle. If the wires are long enough, they were in mine, you should be able to slide it out and just put the whole thing off to one side. I didn't have to disconnect anything. But you can if you want.
Now you should be able to see the black plastic duct work. On that there will be a small off-white plastic module, like others have said it is about the size of a pack of cigarettes. That is the actuator. You will need a socket again and there are three screws. Take out the screws and the module should slide out. There is a power connector to the module, make sure you unplug it.
If you want to make sure the module is the problem then you can leave it plugged in. Turn on the car and move the blend door lever. The one that goes from hot to cold. That should move the shaft coming out of the module. If it moves one way and doesn't stop it is broken. If it doesn't move it is broken.
I think if this is your problem then you should pry open the old module, pull out the shaft and slide it into the hole on the duct. Then move the shaft back and forth to make sure that the door is not jammed before you put the new actuator in. I did this cause I didn't want to put the new one in and have it jammed and burn out the new actuator. I would advice that you use a flat-head screw driver to (gently) pry the a/c control and radio console trim loose. Just a slight bit of force at about the mid point on each side should do the trick. Also, watch out for the clips on the wiring harness inserts behind the radio. They break easily. =D (This is a Ford we're talking about)
I just wanted to add, you find actuators online for pretty cheap. Anytime you lose heat or A/C and think it is related to the climate control or an actuator motor, it is also possible that your blend door has failed, not only the actuator. It is very common with Ford Windstars. In order to access the blend doors you have to pull the dash and extract the plenum box. There is also a method popping up online where you can replace the blend door by removing the glovebox and making an incision in the plenum box. I did this when I installed a heatertreater, I have also disassembled and re-assembled the dash a number of times. The method of going through the glovebox saves a ton of labor and time, but I would not recommend attempting it without specific instructions or a mechanic that has performed this fix. See related links for more info.
The trunk I would imagine, because no air can get in to cool it down.
It's a big deal, 'cause it's INSIDE the gas tank. Haffta drop the whole gas tank to get at it.
On a modern engine, there really isn't a physical part that acts as a governor, it is simply limits programmed into the ECM (computer). You may be able to change or remove these by taking it to someone with the appropriate device to reprogram it.
There are 4 on my 96 MGM one on each side before(upstream) the catalytic converter and two after(downstream) within 2ft of each other
Below and to the left of the steering wheel , by the brake pedal ( it has a cover
on it )
Also , the power distribution box ( which is " live " ) is located in the engine compartment
Found the problem....I changed the Idle Air Control Valve. Thnaks to all that answered my question.
Two things I can think of:
Carbon build-up on the injectors; solution: speed on the highway (65+ MPH).
Idle is set too low; solution: find the idling screw and turn it up.
You probably have a 4.6 motor? If so you may have egr passageways plugging up. Although they usually are a problem whem warm if this is true. Next guess is a sensor such as a coolant temp sensor. It monitors the coolant temperature and tells the computer to adjust the fuel/air ratio. It feeds it more fuel when cold to warm it quicker. If the sensor is telling the computer bad info it may be starving or dumping too much fuel in. The computer controls the idle (no adjustment).
I had similar problem on a 96. I changed the air mass flow sensor and it ran like a champ. Took about 15 minutes. Very simple. Part costs about $85 remanufactured. Dealer tried to charge me about $300 to replace!!!
You can't, the serpentine belt (or fan belt) on a grand marquis is equiped with a self tensioner, if your belt is making noise it either needs to be replaced or one of the pulleys on the cars may be loose and would need to be replaced.
15 mpg city, 22 highway for a combined average of 18 mpg. (Data published by the EPA)
On a 1996 Grand Marquis there are 4 oxygen sensors. 2 (1 on each bank) are mounted before the front catalysts near the manifold-->cat-pipe flange. These are the HEGOS or Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor. These are the primary o2s and are what help the PCM determine the correct A/F ratio. There are another 2 directly after the fisrt set (1 on each bank) of catalysts moutned on the exhaust piping between the two catalysts on each bank. The primary goal of these is to monitor the catalysts' effieceincy. In summary: 4 o2 sensors in all 2 are the upstream/HEGOS o2s 2 the downstream o2s 4 cat-convertors in all
Depends on the oil leak. If it is on the exhaust manifolds, that's Valve covers. Pull them off, clean the head contact point and the covers themselves and replace the gaskets. If it on the Rear of your motor, there are two possibilites. If its on the top of the motor and no where else, that's probably a lower intake rear gasket. In order to replace that, you have to remove the upper intake AKA plenum, unbolt the heater hoses, any hoses attached to your intakes(vaccum mostly) remove the lower intake, and scrape clean any contact points. Place new gaskets to the lower intake, place the lower intake Squarely on the motor or else it will leak. then re-attach any vacum lines, re-attach the upper intake, the heater lines and drive. If the motor is leaking oil from the rear and its all over your transmission, and the tip of your starter motor, then its a Rear Main Seal. Since this involves removal of the Flexplate and Transmission, I would recommend a shop for this one. If its leaking from the front of the motor, it could be a front mainseal, whick involves removing all of the accesories, the water pump and any other associated attachments. Also recommend a shop for this seal. If the motor is leaking from the bottom only, this is most likely an Oil Pan Gasket. In order to change this gasket, raise the motor by removing the motor mounting bolts, and jacking the motor up with a hydraulic jack. place blocks of wood under the space you have gained with the motor mounts. then un-bolt the oil pan, and lower it onto the frame. disconntect the oil pump and pick-up tubes and remove them from the pan. then carefully remove the old gasket and scrape the residue from the block and pan. slide in the new gasket, replace the pan back to the block and tighten the bolts. Raise the motor again, remove the wood blocks, lower it onto the mounts and attach the mounts. Finally, there may also be a oil leak from the base of the distributor. To replace this, unplug the distributor and slide it out. Be sure to mark #1 spark plug wire and #1 position on the distributor. after the distributor is out, pull the old O-ring fron the motor where the dist slides in. place the new o-ring and replace the distributor.
You need a code reader, OBD1 they changed to OBD2 in 1996 and newer. you can order one on line, i did for my 93. it hooks up to a plug on the drivers side fender well. It will come with a book of instructions and codes
Should be a label posted either on door jamb or on fuel cap filler door
if you can ,lay on your back in the drivers seat and look below the key cylinder.you will see a small hole in the trim.but don't mistake it for the screw holes for the trim.insert the key in the lock ,use somtheng like a pick and insert it through the hole and push on the release button,turn the key to the run positin while pushing ofn the button.
To remove dash, pull off decorative trim on bottom. left of steering wheel is about a 7 inch piece, right of SW is about 22 inches, behind these are Bristol screws to remove the bottom of the dash cover, top of dash cover has Bristol screws whcih you can see. Must remove AC/Heater/headlight switch knobs.
4.6 engine requires 6 quarts to fill.
Yes, it is possible. But buy a repair book first as it is very difficult!
Your intake plenum(big gray thing) has 6 bolts. 2 in the front 2 under the plenum cover(thing that says 5.0) and 2 in the back. locate the 2 in the font and on the exact opposite side in the back you will see the other two bolts. Just behind it you will see it. there will be a bunch of hoses follow the biggest hose and just pull it. it should come right off from PVC valve. to replace it I suggest removing the hood and using a pair of pliers to pull it from the grommet. if you can hear it rattle its good. you may also want to replace the crankcase filter if its clogged. use pliers and a long screw to remove it.
There is only one filter, it is under the car, passenger side, near the back. It is held on by plastic clips that are EASY to break. The sock in the fuel tank is not intended to be serviced on any regular basis, don't worry about it.AnswerTechnically, there are two fuel filters on your '99 Marq. Only one is readily changeable though. You can easily change the fuel filter, but the fuel sock is another story.
The fuel filter is against the inside of the frame rail (driver's side in front of the rear wheel on early 90's models, passenger's side in front of the rear wheel on later 90's onward models), and the fuel sock is attached to the inlet of the fuel pump and is inside the gas tank.
As someone who just had to replace the fuel pump on his '92 Marq, I am telling you that you don't want to try changing the fuel sock on a whim.
yes ---- Check the rim width and the offset. I have stock 15's on my '92, and I can crank it far enough to rub the swaybar.
Also, you might want to upgrade your springs and shocks to help keep the fender wells off of your rubber.
I have a 1995 Mercury Grand Marquis and my mother has a 2003 and they both are the same, so yours probably is also. After you pull the trunk lining away so that you can see the metal, there are 3 large black plastic wing nuts that you unscrew. Once you remove those, the tail light section will come out from the front and then you can get to the bulbs to replace them.
The cooling system on this vehicle does not use a radiator cap on the radiator but on a remote tank. It may have a different (larger) cap on it than what you are used to seeing on the radiator.
The 1992 grand marquis has rear drum brakes.
92 grand marqs also has optional discs. To remove the calipers, simply loosen the two large bolts holding the calipers. then compress the piston back with a C-clamp using the old pad as a base. place the caliper on the mount, replace the bolts and hit the brakes once to check for contact. Also, it is a good idea to grease the sliding bolts.
I would direct you to a very similar question concerning 1994 Marqs:
How do you access the rear drum brakes on a 1994 Grand Marquis
and the answer I provided therein.
"I know that 1992+ are discs, but the rears have drums built into them for the emergency brake.  However, to access the rear emergency brake pads is a different process than is typical for a rear drum setup.
It involves removing the axle shafts, so I would recommend taking it to a shop."
Concerning the above statement, emergency brake pad/hardware replacement on a rear-disc equiped Mercury Marquis involves no such thing! The e-brake is simply a mini-drum brake type assembly within the disc itself. As with most drum brake-equiped vehicles, there's an access slot on the backing plate to back the adjustment off, allowing disc removal in cases where the e-brake shoes have worn into the rotor drum (for lack of a better term). Occasionally this slot doesn't quite line up with the adjuster, but it is there! To those researching such a relatively simple procedure, don't let morons like the individual who posted above confuse you with their misinformation.
I WOULD BY A REFERENCE BOOK COVERING YOUR CAR IN AN PARTS STORE SHOULD BE VERY HELPFUL AND REMOVING THE PANEL SHOULD NOT BE DIFFICULT
Tonight I took off my door panel to get to the non-functioning window regulator and I thought it was a bit crazy what I had to do to get the thing off myself. First of all, there should be three (3) visible screws that need to be removed. One is in the top left corner of the panel, the other is down on the left corner of the panel inside the door pocket, and the other is down on the right corner of the panel. Next, you need to use a flat-head screw driver and remove the casing around the door handle. Then you need to pop up the casing around the power switches and with a Phillips screw-driver remove the 4 screws from the underside of the switches. Next, pop out the clear light covering on the bottom right corner of the door. You'll also need to twist out the bulb unit from the door. Then there are two hidden screws underneath either end of the door handle. Using a flat-head screw-driver, pop up the soft ends of the handle and you'll find your 2 screws. Lastly, carefully lift up on the panel to clear the hooks that are holding it in place and pop out the edges of the door so that it'll come right off. Good Luck!
The two screws are actually underneath the door pull handle, not the actual open latch where you would remove the rectangular like casing.
The answer is a very simple yes. Animals love them, so should we.
Just assuming it has between 50,000 and 80,000 miles it is almost certainly the O2 sensor. Very popular after 50,000 miles and hardly ever causes any noticeable problems except maybe a slight drop in fuel economy because it will be running a little rich.
I have a 1998 Mercury that this happens to when the gas level gets below 1/4 of a tank. My brother is a mechanic and said that it's just the O2 level and it doesn't cause any harm. To reset it, just unplug the battery for about 2 minutes, then plug it back in.
I purchases a used 2000 Grand Marquis in January and my check light came on without apparent cause. I had it checked and it was a intake manifold leak. Ford has a recall on these manifolds that ends some time this month and will replace the bad manifold for free. You need to have it placed on a computer at a dealership. Ford lost a law suit about the bad intake manifold recently. .
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