I presume you mean the regulator, since there is no sensor for the fuel system on the pre-engine side. If so, it is attached to the fuel pump inside of the gas tank.
Bring to a shop that has an ABS scanner to determine the problem
i`ll tell you this and this came from the tire man Steve in grovetown ga. @ g&a tires. autos are designed one certain way. universal means in a nut shell, extentions and problems.Answeralso the plastic fenders rub in the inside upper front.
first retract the shade,remove the three pieces of rear deck trim, should be aprox two screws in each piece. grab the shade on one side or the other and compress it. push the side that pops loose twords the front of car.it's out!! keep in mind taking out is a lot easier then installing.
There is just not enough room under the fenders to handle the radius of 22" wheels, even if you were to use low profile tires.
20's will fit with no real mods needed, but a move up to 22's or larger? You're getting into suspension mods.
I have seen 26" DUB rims with low profiles on 91+ Marqs. It CAN be done (anything can be done if you want to pay for it), but you'll have to completely redo the suspension both front and rear. You'll have to raise the car about six or eight inches.
It is not a cheap prospect, and you probably won't be able to do it yourself.
See also: Can 22 inch rims fit on a 1997 Grand Marquis
I have 22"s on my 92 grand marquis and i only needed to put spring spacers on to keep the car from squatting all the way down on the rims.
the spacers will work you will lose some of the ride quality with a lift you lose all of it
If it has those transmission without a transmission pan then all you can do is drain the fluid and refill it back up with fresh one. The ones I have seen are like Hondas, their filters are built inside the transmissions, so in order to replace the filter is to rebuilt the transmission. Those Mazda transmission should use Mercon III transmission fluid but check in your manual book to make sure. The Honda transmissions uses special transmission fluid from the Honda Dealer only.
Ok, if you have an emergency brake handle located by the drivers seat, next to the Transmission shifter. Sounds like it needs to be adjusted. You need to pull off the cover and there sould be a adjustment screw for it. I wouldn't adjust to much if you don't know what you are doing. Could result in the brake not working at all. But just turn it a few turns until the light goes off in either direction. Other than that I have no idea. If you have idiot lights. Like one for Emergency and one for just brakes.... Check the brake fluid. Sometimes the light will come on if the fluid is low. Hope that helps out some. Thanks for the advice! I added some brake fluid and replaced the brake light fuse (the #10 one). The problem vanished immediately and only cost me about $3, great! The screw may need adjusting too, but I didn't want to risk messing it up.
Fuse # 12 is a 20 amp mini-fuse in the Power Distribution Box in the engine
compartment ( PD Box is " live " ) that is for the power point in a 2006 Mercury
you may have wires crossed if some one has installed a new radio system recentley My Villager did this a couple of years ago. After countless hours in the shop it ended up being the rear taillight. The lead contacts on the bulbs were touching one another and shorting the system.
I am still finishing up swapping my alternator from my 1990 Honda CRX Si (driveway job w/ jack stands) and hands down the easiest way I was able to get the old alternator out was exactly as one of the other people said....
- Jack the car up
- Remover the drivers wheel
- Remove the 3 plastic bolts and the plastic piece
- Unplug all the wires/ground/harnesses attached to the alternator so it is ready to be removed
- Remove all the bolts holding the alternator in place
- Then the key REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNT piece. It is only the two bolts that you can access as soon as you get the alternator off the mount.
Once you get the mount bracket off the alternator just comes right out of the wheel well.
I just pulled off my alternator and wiggled it out the top of the engine by removing the cooling hose. :)
I have a 1990 CRX and I have been able to do this on 3 separate occations, including last week. Do not know if this works on the SI model, I have the standard model. Just try it once before you jack your car up and remove anything from the underbelly. Take the alternator off and wiggle it horizontaly to the passangers side of the engine compartment. Take off the engines cooling hose and block the holes (2 minutes at most). Now pull the alternator up the back left side of the engine block. It is that easy for me...wish you all the best.
Pull your driver's side wheel off and unscrew the plastic well pieces. You can just unscrew the 3 plastic bolts and rotate the plastic wheel well piece out of the way. This gives easier access to the alternator. Remove the alternator from the mounting bracket and let rest in the engine compartment while you remove the mounting bracket from the engine block. This will give just enough room to remove the alternator through the wheel well without removing the drive shaft. No need to go out the top and remove the master cylinder. And I know this works, I did it last night.
The easiest way is to remove the master cylinder, yeah you'll have to bleed your brake system but it's better than removing the axle.you gotta hold your mouth right!you can 'cheat' the alternator out of the engine bay from the top. you have to unbolt the brake master cylinder from the booster and GENTLY move it away from the engine. If your car is an Si model there is a sensor on the intake manifold that you need to unplug for a little more clearance. Disconnect the alternator and work it out of the cavity, being very careful with your brake m/c and the sensor you unplugged. It's not impossible but it helps to have an extra set of hands when you are working the alternator out and back in. I've done this several times myself.
Yes, take the front drivers side wheel off,you should see the alternator. Loosen it up so you can undo the belt take it off and unblot the alternator. DONT forget to unplug the wiring attachment form the harness and you need to take a bolt off that keeps the metal off a wire touching the alternator, after this you should be goodto put a new one in , basically follow those steps and you should have no problems puttin the new alternator in. GOOD LUCK!!!
No offends. i have never have to remove anything to get the alternator out. i have owned 7 crx in the past, hf, si. u name it. i have a 1.8 dohc non vtec 95 integra engine in the crx, and alternator pulley a 1/4inch away from the firewall. i still able to get it out. right now i driving a 90 Crx Si, with a JDM b16a (1.6 Dohc vtec same engine from a 1999 Honda civic Si) i still able to pull alternator from the bottom. well i guess may be it have the stock black plastic cover on the bottom. all u have to do un bolt it, un plug the green plug. un screw the cable, then take it out from the bottom, i can't remember over the axle from the front or the back(oh yeah! my axle are twice thicker then stock crx axle), i haven't change mine for awhile but u can get it out from the bottom. If u looking at it from the top, yeah look like it won't come out, but it will. good luck buddy.
On my 1991 Honda CRX HF the **ONLY** way to get the alternator out is:
1.) Unmount alternator.
2.) Remove the two nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake power booster.
3.) DO NOT remove the brake lines from the brake master cylinder!! This is NOT required.
4.) With one hand, pull the master cylinder forward slightly and gently move the master cylinder just slightly to one side as you pull (with the other hand) the alternator past the gap you've opened up. You only need to move the master cylinder at most 1 inch to make room to pass the alternator. You don't have to move the master cylinder very much so removing the brake lines is not required.
Either the brake line is snapped or, if it's a lever e-brake, the nut is loose inside the lever box. Your rear brakes may also need to be replaced or adjusted.
Underneath the oil filter .
Check to see if covered under warantee first, but probably around $350 Well, there are 3 cats on ford escapes. 2 near the engine, which come as one unit and retail for about $1500.00 just for the part itself. Then theirs one by the xhaust which costs(w/labor) near $560.00
GM vehicle?? Turn key to on (do not start). Push accelerator to floor 3 times. Light will flash to tell you it knows to turn off light.
(The Ford engineer who selected the mounting location for the alternator on the escape, should be fired, just like the engineer who designed the gear shifter knob on the 2001. This is a terrible design for maintenance) model)->(Joke) I've just started this on my 2001/2006 V6 Escape. I came searching to the internet to help me complete the job. I found and improved this information. I want to thank all those who put this information here because without it I would have gotten stuck doing this job. I hope this helps everyone who reads it and can save money. This is what I know/have done so far: 1. With the vehicle up on ramps and stands, the tires blocked, and the front wheel removed, you can now remove the black plastic splash shield from underneath the right side of the engine. It's held on by about 5 M8 bolts, and one Phillips head screw. Be careful the front M8 bolt may be rusted and break. 2. Remove the serpentine belt. With the cover off, from underneath you can put a 1/2" drive socket into the tensioner pulley, crank it to the side with one hand while you un-loop the belt around one of the pulleys with the other. 3. Next you need to remove the front axle. Do it in one piece. Remove the 32mm nut that assembles the half-shaft to the spindle and the pinch bolt holding the ball joint. You also need to remove the front bolt holding the lower control arm to the frame. This will allow you to disconnect the lower control arm from the wheel hub. Pry the ball joint out of the spindle, pull the spindle off the half-shaft and then you can pull out the half-shaft. (The alternator, when held in exactly the correct position, will come out the hole created by the half-shaft removal.) Once the lower control arm is free, separate the wheel hub from the drive shaft spindle. Now remove the 2 nuts holding the half-shaft bearing and slide the front axle out of the trans-axle case in one piece. 4. (STOP---MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY CABLES BEFORE YOU PROCEED) There are 2 plastic snap clips holding the back splash guard for the alternator. Take a chisel and cut off the tops. Replace these snap clips on assemble. (Can get these at any automotive store) This will save you breaking the back splash guard for the alternator. There are (3) M13's holding the alternator, two on bottom, one on top. Remove these bolts and slide the alternator out of the way. (Note: If you have about one and a half of extensions for your socket wrench, you can get to the bolts from far in the back near the converter. This will also help when you are removing the alternator bracket. 5. Now, that the alternator is unbolted, you need to take off the alternator bracket. There are 3 M13 bolts that go from the rear into the engine block. The top one you can just barely get at blindly from above or you can use the foot and a half extensions. The next one is below and the third is easily remove from the side of the car near the wheel. Take your time and they will come out. 6. Once you have the bracket out, you can move the alternator around and get to the electrical connections. Be careful with the regulator connector, you need to push inn the tab that holds it in. I think that I used a flat screw drive on the bottom of the tab to release the snap lock. (Look at the new alternator and you will see a little square hole in the mating connector on the alternator where this snap lock engages the connector. This holds the connector on.) 7. Once you remove the bracket, you can then remove the alternator through the hole you just created by removing the drive shaft, alternator bracket and the splash guards. (Note: Do not panic, it will fit through this hole, but you have to play with it to get it out.) 6. When changing the alternator, it is a good idea to also change the serpentine belt. I saw this recommendation --- Don't do it yourself. It takes approximately 2.5 hours (per ford manual) for a trained mechanic to do it. Charge up your battery with jumper cables from another car. Run the car for good 15-20 minutes; or charge your battery with a battery-charger if you have one. Drive to the closest shop and have it replaced!!! Let me tell you --- I called the local Ford dealer 12/26/2008. They wanted $400.00 for a new alternator and $200.00 for the labor. This did not include tax and the warranty was 1 year or 12,000 miles.--- I did this job and it is time consuming, but itm only cost me $150.00 for a rebuilt alternator with a lifetime guarantee. This is the second alternator on this car. Ford did the first replacement and it last only 3 years. The cost is now out of hand. Be sure you have the tools to do this job. Specifically the 32 mm axle socket and a strong arm to remove the axle nut. Also you may need some socket extensions, if you try to get the bolts from far in the back near the converter. I did this job in my driveway on the ground in 35 degree F, weather. Just remember when you are going through these trials and tribulations --- $600.00 (God, I am making what a Ford Laborer Makes) -- And I saved nearly $400.00, even buying some of these tools doing it myself!! PS: I tested my battery with volt meter and it was less than 12 volts. The battery was over 10 years old. Something like 60% of the alternator failures are caused by bad batteries according to information on the new alternator box. So I also replaced my battery and still saved money!! Another suggestion -- Do not jump this car with another. I did this 2 days previous to the dash light going on and it may have killed the regulator that is built into the alternator. (Another great idea by Ford.) My alternator is putting out 14 volts, so my guess is the regulator is the fault for the dash light going on. Maybe Ford could separate the regulator from the alternator and put it in a convenient location. It would save a lot of time and aggravation. flathcliff The easiest way or should I say the most convenient way to change the alternator is to: 1. Loosen lug nuts and wheel hub nut on right front tire. 2. Place the car on a jack stand on the right side. 3. Remove the tire. 4. Remove the plastic splash guard. 5. Remove the belt. 6. Pop the ball joint out. 7. Remove the lower control arm. 8. Take wheel hub nut off. 9. Remove drive axle carrier bearing nuts. 10. Remove entire axle as one unit. 11. Take wire and connector off alternator 12. Remove all three alternator bolts and push alternator off to the side. 13. Remove alternator mount bracket. 14. And finally remove alternator I know this sounds ridiculous but I have done this several times and it is the the best way. Just go in reverse order when installing. This car is not maintenance friendly. On the V-6 models you have to remove the upper intake manifold just to change the spark plugs. If you are decent mechanic you'll like this car. But if you don't have skills to do it yourself and you don't have the money to pay someone to work on this car you may want to buy another vehicle.
Your brakes need bleeding. And if you have antilock brakes, you should take it to a shop to bleed them. It takes special tools to bleed antilock brakes. If you have regular brakes you can bleed them yourself. Could go into further detail but would take too long to explain. Refer to a repair manual.
Note: bleeding antilock brakes without first disconnecting the sensor will damage the sensor and the antilock function will no longer work (learned the hard way, unfortunately).
You have to remove bolts located behind headlight and on the core support. The best book I have found is the clymer repair manual about $20 at parts stores
Well, you can get a new one. Or you can go underneath and soak it in WD40, go in the vehicle and try to move it, then soak it again and let it sit for awhile. Repeat and if it doesn't come loose, It may be rusted together, take it in and get it replaced.
Remove the drum and then get someone to press the e-break and see if the shoes move at all. If not your cable might be snaped inside the plastic sleeve,if that's the case pitch it and get a new one.But becareful some cars have two cables on from the pedel or hand controll then they link to the cable so disconect the one from where they link and press the e-brake and see if cable moves in and out at the end of the cable.Good luck
2nd year apprentice Kyle Roszel
The ends are spring loaded. Push plastic ends toward each other to compress and pull out one side at a time; so, if you have your hand on the left one, push it toward the right and lift upward and toward the rear.
no 15" tire will not bead up
If it doesn't have manually locking hubs on the front wheels, It means it's a "constantly" locked front 4x4. You don't have to lock them, they already are.
someone answere this i have the same prob but i spent 95 bucks for a 4 wheel alignment and i know it was fixed cause i helped
you need to check ur tire pressure on that side/or you have a tie rod end going out which definitely needs taking care of b4 you wear your tire out.
I have actually loosened the door panel and looked up in there and I wired the functioning pieces together, which worked for several months, but then one day it didn't. I checked on it and this cheap handle, with soft plastic parts (too fragile for my kids)was too expensive to replace (which is simple to do by studying the way it goes in; price I believe was over $40) I've decided to keep wiring mine up for months at the time, and may replace it when I sell. If you have zero skills in figuring mechanical things out, just go to the dealer and pay $100 or so. Personally, I would ask the local police to see if they can open it with a SLIM JIM. Some body shops have these too. Good luck. I actually had to replace the door handle on my 2002 Escape and you literally had to take the door apart to do it...found out the easiest thing to do was go to my nearest salvage yard, where I purchased the entire "guts" of a nearly-perfect door and replaced everything inside...took about a half-hour all together. Otherwise, replacing pieces one-at-a-time will drive you crazy. AND...it costs me a grand total of $25.
From experience, if air is leaking around the rim, usually it isn't the tire. Check the rim for any cracks, the tiniest crack can lead to a flat tire because of the released air.
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