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Here are some easy steps to bleed the system.First make sure the clutch reservoir is full of fluid.Next on your bleeder container fill it half way with clean brake fluid.Next get under the truck with this and connect your line and open the bleeder and have a helper manually push the clutch pedal until the old fluid starts to flow into the container and air bubbles start.Do this until the container is almost full.Close the bleeder and recheck the reservoir and top it off(leave the cap on the reservoir off while doing this).Now go thru the same steps and this may take two to three times to clear the old fluid or air bubbles out of the line or system.Each time you fill the container empty the container to half full you are draining the old fluid into.This should not take longer than twenty minutes to do.I recommend having a can of brake cleaner to clean the area and tools you use.In my experience it take about 3 times of filling the container at the slave to clear the system and have nice clean fluid in the resevior.Never run the fluid empty in the clutch reservoir itself.I would buy a big bottle of dot 3 or 4 fluid are fine so you do not run out.Hope this is clear enough and a easy process.Note if the slave cylinder is leaking fluid due to wear replace it,unless you did replace it or the fluid is black and you are just flushing the system.Ok

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on the left side of the transmission about halfway up the side there is a square bolt.

with the vehicle on level ground and "cold" remove this bolt.

a small amount of fluid should come out (this means it is full) if not put your finger in the hole and try to feel the level. if you can't feel it you need to fill it (recommend a full drain and fill)

if it looks black, chunky, thin or has water in it definitely drain and fill

to drain undo the plug at the very bottom of the transmission. clean the plug to get as much metal of the magnet as you can (if it has one)

once drained replace the plug using a new copper washer. where the square plug was use a hand pump to fill the box until fluid comes out the hole. replace plug. check for leaks

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I would remove the speedometer cable end out of the tranmission mounted on the left hand side and clean with brake cleaner then put some white lithium grease (sold at napa in a small container) or use wheel bearing grease as a substitute will work.Then reinstall.I may recommend pulling the main part of the dash out has 4 screws that hold it in two on top and two on the bottom and remove the cable where it attaches to the speedometer and grease it.These old analog gauges will freeze up due to lack of lubrication over time or the needles will jump,drag,or not move.I seriously doubt the cable is broken but,if it is advance auto or auto zone can get it or maybe a local shop that does speedometer calibriations.Start simple clean and grease the cable ends and worst case u do the above and gauge still does not work,you would need a new speedometer(not likely with the old bseries).Time to do this about 30 minutes and note just wipe old grease out on the cable end going to speedometer itself and put some new grease in it(brake cleaner will mess up plastic around the area)Piece of cake.

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you need a dial gauge which screws into the back of the pump its pretty simple after that.

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Take it to a auto shop and ask them to check the transmission fluid level and watch them then say thanks and buy some fluid.

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Chilton manual, i have looked online for a wile for a diagram... the closest year they have is 1997 online... and its a little different

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Its up behind the bumper (on the raditor core support) on the driver side

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A 1993 what, Ford, Chevy, GMC, Dodge, Kia, ???

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Egr valve does not cause stalling. it does not open at idle. I would look at oxygen sensor, then check the gas for water. The EGR can be cleaned, but my EGR valve is 10 years old and did not need cleaning. Also look at plugs and wires.

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Remove door panel, remove 4 screws, remove speaker, put new speaker in, replace screws, replace door panel. Done.

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you have to pull the entire speedometer cluster on the back of it you will see little lights turn them until they come out and replace them with new ones

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I don't know for 1989 but for 1987 it is located in the dashboard. you take the glove box off. the sensor is right behind the glovebox. It goes into the airduct. Be careful when you slide it into the airduct. Good luck.

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check for vaccume leaks. this can sometimes be hard to do so take you time.

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You have to go inside the trunk and remove the circular plastic covers from behind the lights. Then you have to unscrew the entire light and you can access the bulbs to replace them.

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On the bottom side of the engine( front of the car) just below the exhause manifold. It is easiest to remove the mounting plate from the body of the engine, as balancing the coils on the module as you remove and insert screws if a real pain in the but. If anyone has any suggestions on waterproofing this area, I would greatly appreciate it, as I have gone through three of these modules in three years due to water getting into it and shorting the module out. This last time it was a coolant leak around a seal on the top of the water pump, spraying right into the module that caused it. Argh!

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There are 3 Phillips screws that need to be removed. One at the top front of the door post, one in the door handle and one at the bottom outer edge. After the screws have been removed lift up on the door panel.

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how do replace the thermostat on a 1999 mazda b2500 truck?

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Try checking out your catalytic converter. it may be plugged which causes you engine to die after you drive it for a bit. try checking your gas for water that may be the problem also chek your fuel filter it may be plugged.