Try http://www.mazdaparts.com you will have to enter your trucks specs,brand,model year etc and then it will show a glossary of parts available.You will have to click on the actual part such as the shifter and it should a break down of the components.If that page does not pull up try mazdapartscenter.com.I can't recall the exact page I was scrolling but,I believe the first one should be correct.I was on there surfing for rear end differentials and they sell everything for that for sure.Hope this helps.

I will assume you filled the truck up or at least a half of tank and yet the truck still does not start.If you have tried replacing the fuel filter or even using starting fluid to get it to fire up and run about less than one minute and it dies the fuel pump is probably DONE.I would recommend doing a new fuel filter,fill the tank with at least a quarter of a tank,and spray starting fluid into the throttle body.If it runs briefly and dies the fuel pump is probably bad.Running the gas level to empty and running out can cause the fuel pump to overheat and fry it or burn it up.I simply would try the simple things above but,I will guess the fuel pump needs to be replaced requiring you to drop the fuel tank and replace the pump or take the bed off the truck (I would not go this route) just drop the fuel tank and change out the part seriously.I will say on any vehicle with the pump in the tank running the fuel level to empty or even out of fuel causes the fuel pump to run very hot and can burn it up especially if this has been done alot.Sorry for the bad news but,this is the case in most cars/trucks today with a electrical fuel pump in the fuel tank.

The part your inquiring about is not on your year model or engine.Unless I missed something it was offered only on the rx7 and 3.0 liter engines for 1988.Easy.

134 a

she would get hot or leak or you would hear a funny noise in the front

Ok you can do this two ways.First jack the rear end up place jack under rear axle and jack up rear end and place a jack stand under the axle on the left side,right side.I suggest removing the rear wheels soley for better access.If you remove the wheels loosen the lugnuts before you jack up the rear end(wheels off the ground).Then once cleared off ground remove loosened lugs and take wheels off.Lubricate the upper and lower bolts on the shocks.Once nuts are off the studs for shocks slide and or tap the old shocks off evenly.Then clean the mounting points with brake cleaner and lubricate with some wheel bearing grease(lightly) this allows the new shocks to slide on easily.Cut the zip tie (may be on new shock first,then slide top of shock on 1st at the bottom of bed,install nut loose to hold,then compress the bottom of shock by hand push up and slide on bottom mount point install nut.Snug up both nuts by hand and torque these nuts to 57lbs with a torque wrench.Very easy to do and the wheels do not have to be removed by do alloy better access and buy a chiltons or haynes manaul which shows diagrams and a step by step if this is not elaborate enough.

you have to replace your turn signal flahser relay, buy one so you will know what you are looking for under dash by steering wheel.

The ignition timing can be adjusted. Attach the timing light to the battery and connect it to the cylinder. Loosen the distributor adjustment bolt and start the engine. Remove the vacuum hose from the carburetor. Read the timing and make the necessary adjustments.

Your best information and diagram will be in a chiltons or haynes manual offerred at autozone,or advance auto parts or other auto stores.Both of the above manuals offer detailed information and detailed description of parts with brakes.I will tell you it is a good idea to do one side at a time if replacing the brakes front or rear for reference even if you have a picture or manual based on experience.The cost of the manuals is 20.00 or more on average.

In simple, the injectors are set to pulse according to the timing of the crankshaft sensor. It is supposed to jet fuel into the intake manifold so it can be compressed and then it is detonated by the spark plugs. The computer picks up signals from the crank sensor and then it sends a signal to the injectors. Hope this helps you.

just take the motor and drive line out of your 91 rs and take the front drive shafts out, now it rear wheel drive, should work sorry cant be more help

In the dist. Takeit to Auto zone and have them check it out.

There is air in the clutch hydraulic system. This can be because the Master or Slave is bad, low fluid level, or it was not completely bled after installing a Slave or Master. Usually this problem is caused by a bad clutch slave which has leaked out all of the fluid.

Kyrasis6

Owner of Mazdatruckin.com

Check the fuse, the bulbs, and the brake light switch.

underneath the transmission is a bolt that will drain the fluid (it will be the only one on the flat under side. it is best to have the vehicle level to do this and while the transmission is still a bit warm.

let it drain fully while it does this take a chance to clean as much crap off the magnetic end of plug

replace the bolt and put in a new copper washer (you can get value packs from most auto stores)

now remove the square bolt on the left side of the transmission and use a hand pump or such to fill the transmission with API GL-4 SAE 75w-90 or 80w-90 transmission oil until it starts to leak out the hole and replace the plug

some people opt to remove the gear stick and pour the fluid into the top of the box from inside the car. i think it's worth buying a $20 hand pump to avoid having to pull the whole console apart.

7.5 litres

First check for spark by removing the 1 spark plug wire closest to the timing cover and distributor and have the wire end close to the plug with the metal end in the wire exposed enuff to see while having someone crank it see if you have spark.If no spark the coil is probably bad.Now if truck ran before it would only indicate something is not tight or the spark plug wires are not placed in the correct order on the distributor cap.If you want to update the issue please post a response by clicking on the discussion page and submit the current checks and questions if need be.

I just fixed this same exact issue after 2 weeks of trouble shooting. I replaced the coil, dis cap, dis rotor, fuel filter, and all the spark plugs. Nothing worked. Finally it occurred to me to remove the dis cap and watch the rotor while I had a friend turn over the ignition. The rotor wasn't moving at all. This led me to my timing belt. I removed the upper and lower timing belt housing and sure enough, my timing belt was all chewed up at the lower gear (I don't know what it is called, the lowest gear inside the lower timing belt housing). I replaced the timing belt which also led me to discover the wrong timing belt was on the truck in the first place. Check your timing belt, I'll bet you it is causing you the issues. - Rex

Assuming it is a 86-93 model bseries I will for answering this.If the gauge does not register it is more than likely the fuel sending unit in the fuel tank is BAD.To correct this requires dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel sending unit.You can try and ground the power wire from the harness at the tank(very difficult to do for clearance purposes) and if the you ground the power wire and it makes the gauge move to the full position the fuel sending unit is defective.I would just buy a new part and drop the tank being the truck is probably over 15 to 20 yrs old and needs a new fuel sender.I seriously doubt the gauge is bad(in most cases the sending unit is worn out in the fuel tank).Ok

Remove the wheel and the brake caliper. Remove the two 18mm bolts that hold the brake caliper bracket, and remove it and the rotor. Remove the small bolt that holds the antilock brake sensor and remove the sensor. Remove the 32mm axle nut. The nut may be hard to remove but it is right hand thread. You can remove the two 18mm bolts from the bottom of the strut and swing the whole wheel bearing assembly out just barely far enough to remove the axle without removing the lower ball joint. The axle is splined in the wheel bearing assembly and you can knock it out with a block of hard wood and a hammer. Reach back along the axle with a long extension and remove the two nuts holding the axle carrier bearing. Be careful not to let the axle fall down and damage the axle seal in the transmission. The axle should slide easily out of the transmission and only a tiny bit of fluid will leak out. Hope this helps. Good luck.

In a Nissan Sentra I had similar problem. Trouble was the steering column mounted on / off switch for the headlamps. Turns out it is a pretty complex switch and the wiring diagram at the dealer revealed that it was connected to the dash lights and other interior lights. About a $75 gamble to see if I had read the diagram correctly, and, praise the Lord, I had. Replacing that turn signal / Headlights on/off switch deal fixed it immediately.