6 quarts ( 5.7 liters ) with engine oil filter change , according to the Owner
Ford escape 2006 is equipped with an intelligent 4wd System that continously monitors vehicle conditionsand automatically adjusts the power distributions between the front and rear wheels. It combines transparent all-surface operation with highly capable four-wheel drive.
this is a common problem with all 4th gen, F-Bodies, the problem is the one of your taillight sockets has shorted out.
Normally the Black wire of the three wires which is the ground wire. Some can be fixed most can't it is inside the socket. Best bet is to find a 93-97 f-body,(camero, firebird) in a junkyard and cut the sockets out, and splice and replace one at a time til you find the bad one.
You can test for a bad one if you have an ohm meter. Inside the socket there are 3 metal strips, 2 in the bottom, 1 around the inside, check to see if the ground(black wire) is 0 ohms from more than 1 of the strips, if 2 strips show 0 ohms, that socket is toast.
Make sure when you cut the wires on the junkyard sockets you have at least 4-5 inches of wire. The more the better.
I am not sure what all of the symptoms are, but if your turn signals work at times, or flash rapidly at times, the problem may be just like the one I had with my 1999 Century. I found after gaining access to the dash thru the removable panel on the driver's side, that the flasher assembly was bouncing around inside the dash compartment. I could recreate the symptoms every time I moved the flasher assembly and attached wires. I secured the flasher to the inside of the panel using a zip-tie, and have not had a problem since. I could not believe how easy it was to fix, after spending hours checking all the bulbs and sockets and wiring.
The idler pulley is the tensioner for the serpentine belt. To loosen it, do the following... - Notice the bolt in the centre of the idler pulley. Find the appropriate socket. - Using your rachet (set to loosen) put the socket on the bolt so that the rachet handle is pointing towards the windsheild. - Push down on the rachet handle. The tensioner will give slack to the belt. (careful because it is under spring tension) - While holding the tensioner down slip the belt off. Gently allow the tensioner to spring back slowly until it stops.
yes , or 4 wheel drive
i just changed my a couple months ago i believe its a 36mm socket.
For a simple answer: no. For a technical answer: not really.
There are other factors that affect mileage more than the weight of the gas itself. The biggest factors in mileage are the vehicle itself (size, tires, etc.) and external conditions (wind, rain, road gravel, pavement, etc.).
Only if you have a very large tank and it is full. This is only by way of the added weight.
It may seem that it takes longer to go from full to 1/2 than it does to go from 1/2 to empty. That is because the fuel monitor inside your gas tank does not go all the way to empty. It's range is Full to about 1/8th. So, full is full, and empty is really 1/8th. It is designed that way so you won't run out of fuel. But, dont run it that way. Fill back up when you get down to a 1/4 tank because the bottom of your tank has trash and other elements that can hurt your engine and clog your fuel filter.
For a simple answer Yes. The more weight in a car, the more petrol it takes to move the weight.
Even driving with lights on uses more petrol, nothing is free.
I would say it is more likely that they bumped the wire on the oil pressure sending unit of your car. I would try cleaning the contact between the sending unit and the wire before anything. if you cant do this a shop will do it for next to nothing.
No way the lamp oil is rely and idiot lamp that tells something is wrong but not what. the lamp can burn out , loose a conncection or the oil sensor is not functioning
The low oil pressure lamp is produced by the grounding of the pressure switch. The lamp on your dash has a positive voltage whenever the key is on. But the negative side is only when the switch is closed. ( switch on engine not running) oil pressure opens the switch! (turns the lamp off) So IF you do have good oil pressure? then you oil pressure switch has failed, or the the wire going th the switch is grounded. ( short to fram) not your ing. switch. So the answer is NO! To test this you will need a multimeter, check the restance of the switch with the engin running. should be open or LO on your meter. if that is true than check for voltage on the wire. 5 to 12 volts make model. ect. both tests are with swith disconected.
Nope. the "15" is the size of your rim. 15". So a tire with a 15" opening wont fit a 16" rim. but you can put larger tires on the 15" rim.
Just did this on my daughter's Probe yesterday. There are 2 bolts that hold the unit in place. Remove these 2 bolts and pull the entire unit free. The piston in the unit will have to be rotated like a screw or bolt with some pliers so that you can adjust the clearance for the new, thicker pads. Once you have screwed the piston in enough, simply put the new pads in place and re=assemble in reverse order of dis-assemble. Be sure to tighten the bolts well. Check fluid level and take it for a test drive to check for proper function.
The simple answer is with a lot of fun. The manual says just unclip the fixing spring, remove the old one & then re-fit a new one & put the spring clip back. What they do not tell you is on my 416 P reg, you cannot see the fixing pins for the clip due the way the light is made, so it I had to use a torch & a mirror to see where to do it. The Haynes manual also cheats by having the light unit out of the car to do it. If you want to take the light out instead again that's fun as the bumber has to come off!!!! Cheers Ahab
It really depends on which model year and model the Ford 5.4 liter V8 is in :
For example :
A 1997 Ford F-150 , 5.4 is rated at ( 235 horsepower ) while the 2010 model
is rated at ( 310 )
* both using " regular " unleaded gasoline , 87 octane
Obviously your safety is more important than bad credit or bad rental history (both of which you may have if you simply break your lease). If you feel that your safety is being threatened, then you should leave. There are a few issues, however, that might effect your strategy regarding breaking the lease contract. Whether or not the crime is happening on the property, and whether or not the crime is committed by other tenants of your complex are two very important issues to consider. If the crime is a result of people OTHER than tenants of your complex and OUTSIDE of the property, then you will likely have a hard time breaking the lease without penalty. However, if the crime is the result of other tenants at your complex, and/or it is happening on the apartment property, then you may want to treat this like you would any repair that is a threat to health and/or safety. Basically this entails sending a CERTIFIED letter demanding that the problem be taken care of within a specified amount of time (typically we counsel people to give a 7 day deadline). If the complex does NOTHING to resolve the problem by the deadline, then the most Property Code states that you may terminate your lease and move. Check the Property Code for your state. In addition, it would be helpful if you could get together with any other tenants who may be concerned and write a letter together. As a group, you all could force a resolution much faster than a single tenant.
First you make sure you have a diagram of how the belt is threaded (or check in section 6 of the owners manual)
Start the car and cut the wheels to the right..Shut it off
then take a ratchet with a breaker bar and lift up the tensioner pulley to release the tension.
Then after belt is loose remove the 2 fasteners that hold the wheel well protector on and remove it. This will provide access to the bolt at the bottom of the motor mount bracket ( it's shaped like a [ ).
This bolt feeds through a sleeve that when removed will provide the clearance needed to remove the belt.
Put a jack with a 2x4 on it under the oil pan (just touching, not lifting) to provide support should anything bad happen.
Then with an 11/16s socket remove the lower motor mount screw and spacer this is the only way to get the belt out......reverse procedure.Make sure the new belt is properly seated on the belt tracks.
The spacer is difficult to remove, so through the top is the easiest and perhaps adding a slight bevel to the outside edge and cleaning the ends may help with the reinstalling of the sleeve.
I just did this 2 days before updating this. Spray and wipe clean your tensioner pulley with a little brake cleaner. I also had to remove the tensioner pulley to make sure it spun freely.
To add to this great description:
No work will need to be done to the engine mount which you will see looking down from above. The engine mount is the black coil with a bolt through it, connected to large "fingers" that hold the engine. The bottom one of these "fingers" is the part that your belt will be stuck on when you try to remove it. This part is removable on it's own. As explained above, all the work you will need to do will be done from behind the wheel well panel. Once you've removed the nut described, you will then remove the bolt that it was on. The bolt, or screw, has an end that is workable with a ratchet. This bolt will come all the way out and allow you to remove the spacer described above, with some prying, and allow you to remove the belt.
You can Deactivate the Belt Minder two ways. First, you can deactivate it temporarily for your current "run cycle", that is after you have started your car and it's still running. Second, you completely deactivate the Belt Minder so that it never reminds you again, or at least until your reactivate it... The first method, temporary deactivation, or one time disable: After you have started your vehicle, buckle and then un-buckle your safety belt. Be sure to buckle back up.... This will disable the Belt Minder only for that ignition cycle. The second method, permanent deactivation: There are 9 steps you need to follow to deactivate or activate your Belt Minder system. Before doing so, make sure that: The parking brake is set. The truck/car is in Park (automatic), Neutral (manual). The ignition is OFF. All doors are closed. The driver's safety belt is un-buckled. The parking and headlights are OFF. Then follow these 9 steps: Turn the ignition switch to ON, but DO NOT START. Wait for the safety belt warning light to go OFF(1-2 minutes). Steps 3-5 MUST be completed within 60 seconds! Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. Turn on the headlights, turn off the headlights. Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. After step 5, the Safety Belt Warning Light will be turned on for 3 seconds. Within 7 seconds of the safety belt warning light turning OFF, buckle then un-buckle the safety belt. This will disable the Belt Minder if it is currently enabled, or enable the Belt Minder if it is currently disabled. Confirmation of the disabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds. Confirmation of the enabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds, followed by 3 seconds with the safety belt light off, then followed by flashing the safety belt light 4 times per second for 3 seconds again. After confirmation, the deactivation/activation of the Belt Minder procedure is complete.
Although a little obscure, it is listed in the owners manual. There is a black plastic cover under the hood, and right above the headlight. (A pain to remove, but necessary. Held on with black plastic button type fasteners.) Under the plastic, There are 2 metal tabs, (1 on either side.) These are supposed to be "easy" release clips lol. Pull them up, and the headlight assembly can come out the front of the car. Replace the bulb, and reverse procedure to reinstall. I know because I just did this to my 2000 Grand Am.
It depends on the context.
In the case of logarithms, the number is usually given as a CHARACTERISTIC and a MANTISSA. The mantissa is always positive and comes after the decimal point (or its equivalent). However, the characteristic, which coes before the decimal point may be negative. If it is negative, it is written with a bar on top.
Whereas with ordinary numbers "minus two and a quarter" is written as -2.25, with logariths, it is interpreted as -3 plus 0.75 and written as 3bar.75 where bar represents the horizontal line above the number. Sorry, but this browser does not allow me to show it properly.
One reason for this seemingly strange procedure is that if you are dealing with logarithms to the base 10, then the power of 10 in the antilog is the same as the characteristic.
Thus antilog(0.301) = 2 = 2*100
antilog(1bar.301) = 2*10-1
antilog(3bar.301) = 2*10-3
To those not familiar with the term, antilog10(x) = 10x
Use a #20 Torx screwdriver to remove two screws located on the inner side tail light assembly w/ trunk open.
Pull taillight assembly straight back from the vehicle to get it off. You may need to utilize a wedge to gently work the top and bottom of assembly away from vehicle on outer side. If so, be careful to use a protective layer (such as a thin piece of cardboard) next to the body to prevent scratching the paint. A wooden kitchen spatula works with out scratching.
Once removed, twist applicable light cover counter clockwise and pull to access lightbulb.
You may want to apply a small amount of lithium grease to the two plastic stud holes before reinstalling the cover to make it easier to remove the next time.
*** For my 2006 Jeep Liberty, the #15 Torx screwdriver worked best. It would also benefit having a magnetic screwdriver since the left tail light area is hard to handle small screws; that is, unless you have tiny hands. :)
put in a new condenser. this can be a couple problems, either the spark isn't jumping the gap it supposed and just sparking due to a bad spark plug gap or the wrong spark plugs for your car or your coil is bad which rarely happens but it can with age
I presume you mean the regulator, since there is no sensor for the fuel system on the pre-engine side. If so, it is attached to the fuel pump inside of the gas tank.
on the 2.5L v6 model there is also a v-belt for the power steering pump which requires the removal of the serpentine belt for replacement.
Well, if you're experiencing a lot of bouncing when you go over bumps, it's time for new shocks. Excessive leaning in turns can be an indicator too. The old rule of thumb, is to push down hard on the fender (in your case, the rear fender) and let go after it goes as far down as it's going to. If it bounces up and down more than once or twice, it's time for new shocks. FriPilot
I am having sort of the same problem. My coolant light comes on after I've been driving for a while or if my car has been idling. I have checked all of my fluids and the car doesn't seem to be over heating or running hot. Any suggestions on what might cause this? My dad seems to think there is a short in the wire or the sending unit.
The low coolant sensor is a poor design and prone to failure. Get this - you have to buy the bottle to replace it, as the sensor cannot be purchased separately. The good news is, just unplug it. The light will go out and no codes will be generated. Just check your coolant level from time to time, like we all should do anyways when we check other fluids.
No it is on top of motor.
The above is incorrect , I believe. It appears to be on the side of the engine attached to the water pump. But it is not on the top, as above stated( i just looked, and ruined a perectly good upper hose gasket.)
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