I have same problem on my 2000 Maxima, but until now still have not fixed yet. anyone has experernce and suggestion please help. Thanks.

Check the coils

9mm Allen, hard to find. take 3/8 Allen and grind it down

Yes, it is RWD.

You just pull out the Horn relay/fuse.

Each vehicle with a key pad has it's own factory code

No. Rotors should last the life of the car if your pads are changed regularly, like they should be. The only time you have to replace the rotors is when you put off a pad change for too long. Your pads will eventually wind up metal on metal and grind really bad and this is what ruins the rotor. There are exceptions to this rule, though. Excessive and heavy braking can also cause an extreem build up of heat. This heat can warp a rotor causing your car to develope a weeble-wabble effect. I have seen them get so hot, they melt all the rubber seals with the area because of the tremendous heat they produce.

Yes and the new ones come in front wheel drive with option all wheel drive

The computer illuminates the "check engine" light when it detects a condition needing attention, such as a faulty sensor. The computer will FLASH the check engine light when the condition is significant and should be addressed immediately.

You can purchase, rent or borrow a computer code scanner at most auto parts retailers such as Checker Auto Parts or Auto Zone.

Hey. Curious do you have an autostarter installed? If you do does it work? Also check your fuses they should be installed on the 12volt power feeds to the starter brain box somewhere under the dash!!!

Check fuel filter and fuel pump.

where is resistor pack on 2010 impala lt 6 cylinder 3.5 motor

Firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of Ford Escape ( V6 ) driver>

The oil filter should be located on the passenger side on the bottom of the engine. You will have to be able to get under the car to see it. Just find the subframe on the right side and look up and twords the front of the car and you should see it.

First, drain off the radiator fluid to a level below the upper radiator hose. Then disconnect the hose from the water neck on the engine block (and from the radiator if you wish). Remove the water neck, and the thermostat is right there to replace (under the water neck on the engine intake). After replacing the thermostat and bolting down the water neck, reconnect the upper radiator hose, etc, warm the car up. add radiator fluid, then be sure to loosen the screw on the water neck that allows any trapped air in the water neck to escape. You should see a stream of radiator fluid exiting the vent on the water neck. Retighten the vent screw, and fill the radiator to the top and replace the pressure cap, and you should be good for a long time.

A bicycle or a motorcycle.

It is in the headlight switch. There is a small piece of metal shaped like a hurricane weather symbol on the back of the switch, inside the switch assembly. The metal completes the circuit when you pull out the switch. The problem is, it is just glued to the back of the switch. You can disassemble the switch, and use a VERY small screw to attach the metal piece to the back of the switch. It is tedious work, takes about a half hour, and some dash disassembly, but it will cost less than a buck for the tiny screw. Or pay the $60 for the new switch assembly. You still have to take the dash apart, so try to fix the switch first. I did this over a year ago and it works great. I tried super glue first and it lasted 2 days. You need the screw!

You have to have the key to that ignition to remove it. You can get a locksmith maybe. The dealership can make you a key from your vin# definitely good luck.

Possible yes, probable no. What is most likely happened is he told her the CV boots in both front axles are torn/broke/exposed. This is easily identifiable by excessive grease on the inside of your front rims if it's the outer CV boots. The best solution is to have the axle replaced, but a less costly option is to have the boot replaced. The labor hours are the same but parts cost are cheaper. The con of doing a CV boot replacement is that you don't know what dirt has gotten into the CV joint that could cause failure down the road. Even if they clean the CV joint there is no way of seeing how badly damaged the bearings in the CV joint are. So axle replacement is more expensive but also offers more peace of mind. hope that helps

I presume you mean the head of the bolt is stripped. Try some vice grips or a pipe wrench, or use a grinder to put a flat spot on each side of it. There are also some special sockets you can buy that are made to grip anything. I am told they work rather well.

A/C

No, you don't have to replace the whole assembly to repair a dead bulb. I have checked with the Bentley shop manual on this procedure and what you have to do is the pull on the black surround trim around the fog light. Do this from the area between the light and toward the license plate and the piece of black surround trim should POP off. IT is held in by tabs.

Next you have to unscrew the whole fog light assembly with the three screws holding it in (Not the adjuster TORX head screw-that is for adjustment).

It should then be able to pull it out of the bumper a bit and disconnect the connector from the foglight assembly. Twist off the back of the fog light assembly and you will have access to the bulb and will see how it connects.

Unsnap the retainer holding in the bulb and disconnect the lead going to the bulb to remove. Be careful not to touch the new bulb with your bare hands!! If you do carefully clean it with a cloth wetted with alcohol to remove any oil from your hands. If you don't, the bulb will shatter as soon as power is applied or will fog over instantly. These are halogen bulbs that get very hot and any oil will harden instantly on it's surface and crack the bulb.

Installation is the reverse from removal.

IT is not a very hard job to do but care should be taken with disconnecting the assembly connector first so that you can remove the whole light making it easier to work on.

I don't know if this would help, but maybe. I just had the same problem on my 1996 Rivera. In my case, there are two main fuse boxes located under the back seat. On your model they may be located somewhere else. AT any rate, I replaced the 30 AMP fuse in one of the boxes and my cigarette lighter started working again. The funny thing is I went to ALLdata & subscribed for $25 per year, well worth it, to get the fuse layout & callouts. My situation was the pwr fuel cap actuator & the trunk release actuator, would not operate, so I couldn't put in gas or open the trunk, as this operated from the door handle console. Once I replaced this fuse, the situation was every thing worked including my cigarette light. Of all the callouts on the fuses, not one called out for "cigarette lighter" Gil Raker

Well, if you're experiencing a lot of bouncing when you go over bumps, it's time for new shocks. Excessive leaning in turns can be an indicator too. The old rule of thumb, is to push down hard on the fender (in your case, the rear fender) and let go after it goes as far down as it's going to. If it bounces up and down more than once or twice, it's time for new shocks. FriPilot