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Check out www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( including the fuse panel diagram ) can be viewed on-line

( the fuses and relays section starts on page 125 )

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If all are out it may be flasher, fuse, bulbs socket, or switch in column

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OBD1 code 41 = solenoid valve, vehicle speed control

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clockwise 15426378

The rotor turns counterclockwise and the order depends on if you have an engine with a roller cam or a flat tappet cam. If it is a flat tappet cam, it is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If you have a roller cam, it is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. You will either have an H.O. motor or not. H.O. is roller motor.

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I am not sure of the entire problem whether it starts all the time and stalls occasionally or does it shut off as if you just turned the key off? If it is the latter, check the ignition module near the distributor. If it is running try tapping the module and if it stops, that may be your problem.

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Which V8, Ford has made many over the years. Ford has/had two different firing orders for V8's over the years: 1,3,7,2,6,5,4,8 and 1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8 If it is an older van, the second one is more likely, because the first one was usually found in high output applications like the Mustang GT. If it is a newer one like a 4.6 or 5.4 liter, the first one is more likely. Try one then the other, and see which one makes it run. Rdemember also the numbering of the cylinders on a Ford is not like a GM. The cylinders on a Ford are 1-4 up the passenger's side and 5-8 up the driver's side.

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Depends on if you want a factory OEM unit or aftermarket. Price varies widely depending on where you live and which unit you choose. Look on eBay and you may b able to purchase an OEM unit, and then pay someone to install it or DIY. I purchased an OEM unit for my Toyota Tacoma on eBay for $100. Same unit at dealer was $300. Installed it myself. Not an easy job and does take time.

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Try pressing the outside door handle button while inserting a heavy screwdriver where the lock would normally close over the striker, and see if you can open the closed jaws with the shaft of the screwdriver. You will be simulating the action of the lock this way. After it is opened, then see what caused it to get that way, and correct that, or replace. I hope this works for you.

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In a 1996 Ford E-150 ( fuse # 10 is a 25 amp fuse for the cigarette lighter ,

power amplifier , and rear power outlet ) according to the Owner Guide

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The first thing you need to do is remove the outer panel of the dashboard that surrounds the radio. This varies from year to year, but you'll find that there are some lag screws around the bottom panel. You may need to pop off some plastic trim to get at these screws. Once you've got the panel off, you need to pop out the radio. This can be done with the Ford radio removal tool (which costs money) or with a DIY device made by cutting a wire coat hanger and shaping two "U" type tools (which is free). Slide them in the holes (2 on each side) and put slight outside pressure on the tools and the factory radio will slide right out. Disconnect the wiring assembly and the antenna cable, and you have a clean slot, ready for your next head unit assembly. The radio removal tool may also come with some new stereos or installation kits specific to Ford Vans.

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On my 1996 windstar it is the it is the 3rd row down 2nd from left

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Hi, I found 4 on mine 2 up front and 2 in the rear. Hope this helps

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My E150 van 1994 5.8L has intermittent misses at idle and cruise. Cruise control & Idle air control doesn't work? Stalls when trying to accelerate from a dead stop (traffic light, etc.) Can you give me a more detailed explanation for code 212?

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Its on the rear of the passenger side valve cover if's it's a V8. Remove the doghouse and you will find the vacuum connection for the PCV on the very rear of the intake plenum. Follow the hose down to the PCV valve.

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I have a 94. The switch on mine is located behind the kick panel on the passenger side. Remove the plastic panel right next to the passenger side door. have a great day. On a 95 it's up high, under the dash, on the plastic panel by the passenger door. The panel said "fuel reset", pointing to a hole. Reach in, feel around, press down - didn't even have to remove anything!

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Are you sure it's not the switch. But I have taken off lots of Mercedes door panels. There should be a couple of panels that need to be popped off first to access some screws. One is behind the airbag piece depending on the year. Then there are a couple behind the door handle trim. Also remove the upper trim panel first.

For a detailed explantion with pictures visit the web page in the related links.

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Look at the bottom of your engine. this bottom section is the oil pan it has screws holding the oil pan on to the bottom of the engine. There is a single bolt that allows you to drain the oil out. If you need to take it off get a few things ready. One the proper amount of oil to refill it, and new oil pan gasket. This is there to prevent leaks. It is usually not hard to do but even the easy things can have compications. Have a great day. First remove Engine, then install on engine stand. The reason you must remove engine, is the panwont clear the axle housing and the oil pump assembly.

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In order to change the heater core on most vehicles you have to remove the Air Handling Unit (evaporator case) from under the dash. In most cases you have to remove the entire dash in order to get the case out. (the case is the big black thing under the instrument panel, mostly on the passenger side.) Im order to get the case out you have to remove the nuts from the bolts that go through the fire wall. Next you have to pump down the AC system and unhook the evap. core at the TXV (near firewall). The next step is to remove the heater core lines at the firewall. (ALL 3 of these are done in the engine caompartment.) Now is where you would remove the instrument panel, and the AC system duct work. After all that you should be able to get the Air Handling Unit out. once the caseis out you have to take out the screws that hold the center seam together, and whatever else may be in the way (actuator linkages, wireharnesses, etc, etc.) Once you have "split" the case you should simply be able to pull the heater core out and put in the new. Reverse the process to put back together. Hope this helps.

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Why do people setup accounts to leave dense answers like that?

Here is more constructive assistance.

Setting the clock: Upon initial battery connect, this function is

displayed first among MENU functions. Once the clock is set, this will be

shown as the last MENU function. Press MENU until SELECT HOUR or

SELECT MINS is displayed. Press the Tune selector (UP / DOWN ) to adjust

the hours/minutes.

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There are 2 on the engine, there is one next to the thermostat housing that sends a signal to the engine computer that takes a 1 inch wrench and there is another one that sends the signal to the Dashboard gauge and is located on the rear of the engine on the passenger side of the vehicle and you need to take off the cabin engine housing to get to this, this takes a 11/16 wrench and has a push on plug, be sure to de-pressurize the system prior to taking off these units, a ground will send the gauge to the hot side and an open switch will keep it on the cool side, so test the wire to be sure the gauge works first.

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Is it possible that your emergency brake is stuck part way on? This is the light, it may be crossed or broken.

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When you apply the brakes, the power booster is using engine vacuum. More than likely, the brake booster is defective, as in a busted diaphram. Also check the vacuum store canister for leaks or soft hoses which collapse, restricting vacuum. Robert

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Well, you can get a new one. Or you can go underneath and soak it in WD40, go in the vehicle and try to move it, then soak it again and let it sit for awhile. Repeat and if it doesn't come loose, It may be rusted together, take it in and get it replaced.