First check fuse. Then check switch by test light with power on this will mean if there is power to the swtch if not check wiring. if there is power in the wire. then replace switch. Then check wires. By volt meter. If wire damage repair or re place wire.
A common problem with a Lincoln Towne Car is the gear inside the power window motor fails. The sound that it normally makes when this problem exists is "Zoom, Zoom, Zoom, etc." when the switch is used in both directions. The gear will need to be replaced.
Check the wire harness for cracks in between the door opening, with time it brakes from closing/opening doors
Pour rubbing alcohol on the switch. It cleans the shumtz out and sometimes works.
Nervous about using rubbing alcohol? Try some contact cleaner (check Radio Shack). It won't fog styrene plastics like alcohol will.
With the key -off- (no power), spray the cleaner into the switch (careful of splashing in the eyes) and work the switch a bunch of times.
For the shade tree mechanic there is a heat sensitive circuit breaker in the motor that fails more often than the motor. Jump it out and put an external self resetting 10a breaker in the motor line
A method that somtimes works when you have a bad conecction is slamming the door. It is useful for when you need to close the window eg so people cannot break into your car. Not exactly a long term solution though.
Check out www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )
Click on Owner Guides
The owners manual ( including the fuse panel diagram ) can be viewed on-line
( the fuses and relays section starts on page 125 )
either UNDER the dash or under the hood...
It's inside the air bag module and can't be replaced.
go to autozone by the part take engine cover off and it on top off the moter on driver side 2 bolt to take off
I found the easiest thing to do when having power window problems was to change the window motor(I have changed 3 out of 4 on my 94 intrepid).This is actually quite easy to do as long as you take the time to ensure you have removed all the screws on the interior door panel and be carefull when you take the trim off as the speaker wiring and the wires for the locks and windows will still be attached. good luck
The best way to change the head lamp is to open up the glove compartment, pull out the manual, open it up to page 67. and read "How to change the head lamp of your '93 Ford Club wagon van."
Water or air in your fuel line.Answer
spark plug wires usually or plugs but id say was the wires apso when it rains they act up also jim
check your fuel filter, if its your fuel pump you'll know soon enough.
There is no fuse for the compressor itself, if the compressor is not working, the low pressure switch has activated and there is not enough refrigerant in the system. Have your AC system serviced by a good shop or your local Chrysler dealer.
You'll need to cut the wiring harness out of a donor car that has a matching efi system and transplant it into yours. You'll also need the eec computer from the passenger side dash of the donor car. I would recommend using an early nineties system as they have the mass air sensor on the intake instead of the less useful speed density unit. All though you would have to remove that from the intake of a 90's 302 and transplant it if you're intake is meant for speed density. Worth the upgrade if you plan to do any mods for hp
I am not sure of the entire problem whether it starts all the time and stalls occasionally or does it shut off as if you just turned the key off? If it is the latter, check the ignition module near the distributor. If it is running try tapping the module and if it stops, that may be your problem.
Never done it but....have done some research because I may have to do it on my 1998 Contour. The filler neck is a single piece with the fuel fill tube (two joined tubes--the fill tube and another smaller tube that comes off the fill tube and they both go to the tank). So you have to drop the fuel tank. Zounds. The part on my car has a number sticker--Ford 75E9F945CA. There is also a small plastic canister attached to the top of fill tube and the evap canister vent rubber tube is attached to it and goes from there to the evap canister. The complete complexity can be viewed by removing right wheel and inner splash shield. Looks labor intensive.
I have a 1994 E150 Conversion. But the factory harness is located under the rear of the van to the left hand side and attached to the frame.
Check both the fuses under the left side of the dashboaed, near the hood releae and don't forget to check the relays right next to the fuse box. See if any of the relays are unusully warm (may be grounding out)
yes you can swap rear ends from late model to early model and visa versa... as long as the gear ratios are the same. the rear ends in my 1996 full size and my 1986 full size are exactly the same except for a 3.08 ratio and a 3.42 gear ratio...
No. The spring perches are in different locations between the OOBS ('73-'87) and the OBS ('88-'98) trucks.
autozone.com has pictures of the routing of the belt - you have to create a account which is free and there's pics after putting in your exact vehicle. You wont find routing pics in the haynes manuals which is dumb.
At the lower end of the top radiator hose within the water outlet. I hope this helps you. Mark
IT IS MOUNTED BY RIVETS. YOU MUST DRILL THEM OUT
It's on the driver side of the engine. Open the "hood" and locate the lower radiator hose. Follow the hose to the engine and there is where the thermostat housing is.Answer
I confirm that, removing the power steering pump will give you more room, though you can do it without moving anything. You are working on top of the alternator so disconnecting the battery is a good idea. Since the thermostat is mounted sideways on the engine, use form-a gasket on the new rubber O ring gasket to the metal neck piece (wait 20 minutes for it to set). Install the new thermostat and carefully install the neck piece with O ring gasket. It is easy to mis-align the O ring so take your time. The only way to check, that I know of, is to take a small mirror and flash light and check in the neck to see if the O ring is sitting right after you tighten down the two nuts.
Here's what my 2001 Owner's Manual (see "Related Questions") says: 1) Prepare for programming the HomeLink Universal Transceiver by erasing the three factory default codes by holding down the 2 outside buttons until the red light begins to flash after 20 seconds. Release both buttons. 2) Hold the end of your hand-held transmitter 2-5 inches away from the HomeLink Universal Transceiver surface (located on your visor) while keeping the red light in view. 3) Using both hands, simultaneously press and hold the hand-held transmitter button and the desire HomeLink button. Do not release these buttons until step 4 has been completed(!) 4) The red light on the visor will flash slowly and then rapidly. Release both buttons when the red light flashes rapidly. Repeat for the other buttons as needed. It's been 5 years since I had to program mine, but it's still working like a champ. :)Garage door opener programming
First of all; no "garage door opener" came in or on a 1998 Windstar. That said; you may have a "garage door opener" in your Windstar that someone put there. This was probably done by the owner of the garage door opener that was installed in the garage where the Windstar is parked. To reprogram such an opener you need to see the instruction sheet that came with the opener. If this is not available, the manufacturers customer service department should be contacted.Actually it did!
The above is incorrect, The 98 Windstar LX came with a garage door opener built into the driver's sun visor. I know because I have one! However, I could not get it to work when I followed the instructions in the Owner's Manual, so it's merely a curiosity for now.If it's a Home Link like in a 2001
I've linked the instructions provided from the 2001 Owner's Manual in another FAQ to the right. See if they'll work for you.Not All Windstar 98 LX have itI have a Windstar 98 LX too, but I don't have a garage door opener.
Check out this site: www.twinturbo.net There you will find all the info you need and then some. From that site, there is a link to twinturboz's of Dallas. You will find a complete removal and installation guide with photos.
Also DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS TO DRILL YOUR INTAKE. It's pointless and takes even more time to even get to your injectors. Your best bet is to Take the intake off by which it only took me about 30 minutes,
Remoe the coil pack plugs and injector plugs, TPS sensor plug and vac hoses on that black air crossover, IACV plug and whatever the other plug is next to it. Then remove the temp plug and temp plug next to it as well. Man thing is to allow the harness to be free from the intake
There's a crossover hose for the water and just cut that if it's as hard as a rock. take the plastic intake vac hoses off, take the center bolts off the intake, there are two bolts per side on the intake in the middle, remove those.
on the driver side back side of the intake there's a large 5/8th's hose that will stump you every time near the IACV, remove that however you can and repeat on the passenger side
THE INJECCTOR PLUG MIGHT HAVE METAL CLIPS SO REMOVE THOSE FIRST BEFORE LIFTING THE PLUG OUT.
There are two 10mm bolts on the bottom where the two metal rods connect the intake towards the front bottom side of the intake(Dont know that piece yet) remove those.
the intake should come off.
NOW there's two bolts per injector holding the injector down. I know from experience that they will be locked into place but can easliy be removed....
Get some vice grips and lock it down on the Philips head of the screw(Just enough to lock it down firmly, not he-man tight. and give it a little twist(No this will not ruin your bolt nor prevent you from install it back, this is the way I did it to prevent me from stripping the head it self.)
Repeat that for the other side of that injector and that's it, you should be able to pull it up.(Repeat this step for the other 5)
From there you should be able to see the other bolts that keep the fuel rail in place so you handle that.
The injectors are hard as hell to remove so be ready to use some muscle a little bit. I just pryed in different sections to remove them because it didn't matter if the the plastic was broke or not because they were all bad pretty much.
after remove the old beat down injectors, have a bit of wd40 or silky gas solution because you will be using that to lube up the holes to place the new injectors in.
BE SURE TO CLEAN THE HOLES FIRST.
Now grab a q-tip or your finger whatever and dip it into the wd40(I prefer) and just run your fingers around the lower and upper hole of that injector port and gentle place the injector in. Then go ahead and push down simoltanuously on each side of the injector to evenly place it down. Now go ahead and place that cap and the two bolts on it which will finish it down. Tighten it down little by little on each side.
Repeat that last step for the rest of them and them re-install and you have yourself a running car. Be sure all of your hoses are placed back.
TIP: i went ahead and remove that pointless black piping for the fuel and ran an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to the inlet and a hose back to the return line. That black piece is just used for fuel dampening and regulating which I find that is ok but pointless.
Besides the fuel was dampened and then it was regulated... CRAZY!!!! So in place where the inlet side goes, just install a jdm adjustable regulator and the outlet just straight hose it back to the return hose and leave it at that.
From that air crossover piping on the intake, just cap the vac ports off. I'm running 93 in mine as that's what the car calls for so don't go believing cheap gas it what is needs. The timing is so far advanced and your coils are good. If you have to use cheap gas, back off your CAS a bit
When inserting the injectors into place, DO NOT use WD40. Please use either grease or vaseline. Just dabb it on all over the rubber seals.
Using WD40 could work, but unfortunately you will still run the risk of pinching the lower seal when installing the injectors. This will cause that cylinder to flood up when the engine gets turned on. You would then have to pull everything back out and replace the lower seal on the injector.
Good answer though.
R134 or 134R its the same obviously. That's the only freon I know of besides the old stuff you cant get anymore.
Hello, I just did this on my 1994 Aerostar EB AWD. The front wheel bearings are part of the wheel hub assembly. The bearing is not replaceable by itself. Jack it up, remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, remove the 3 13mm 12pt. bolts on the inner side of the hub assembly (spray with penetrant and hope for the best), tap the hub with a hammer and remove. New hub assembly can be had for @$100.00 at local auto parts store.
sensors rarely go out i'd try first check brake fluid top it off this can cause brake light to come on if full check your brake pads and rotors you got to take your tires off any rust will set off the brake light inside your truck if they are fine then you should get your ball joints and tie rod ends checked out by a pro
The ABS light may or may not be lighting due to a faulty sensor. If it is, and it is common to happen, you need to find out which one. Take it to an independent repair shop and they will need to troubleshoot it.
I have the same problem on my Econoline 96, I've taken it to a dealer and several independent shops with no solution. My econoline does this mostly in the summer, and not during the cool days or winter.
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