According to the 2004 Ford E-150 Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 4.6 liter V8 engine takes :

( 5.7 litres / 6.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 )

If you look inside the wheel wells behind the fender liner, right about where the frame is one O2 sensor, the other is underneath the truck about half way back in relation to the transmission. If you see where the exhaust joints together, you went about 6" too far.

When you start looking at the O2 sensors, they are normally numbered something like "Bank 1 Sensor 1" Bank 1 is on the passenger side; Bank 2 is on the driver's side. Sensor 1 is the upstream sensor (near the frame, between the block and the cat) and Sensor 2 is near the Y-pipe (downstream of the cat).

Normally it is the upstream sensors (sensor 1) that go first. They see the harshest conditions. You will need; Oxygen Sensor Socket Anti-Seized Penetrating Oil Sometimes it will take 15 minutes or take a few hours it depends on your luck…

there are addditives at the local autoparts store you can use to raise the fluid . get the kind that prevents shuddering

Hello, If I'm not mistaken, there speedometers on 1994 Toyota pickups rely on a mechanical cable connected to the speedometer on one end and the transmission on the other. A plastic gear in the transmission spins the cable. The cable can fray causing it to fail and the gear inside the transmission can also lose a tooth or two with time and wear. Good luck!

Hello on my 1994 Toyota I do have a sensor on the the transmission which supplies an input to the odometer and speedometer. In my case my odometer is indicating the mileage but not my vehicles speed. I am now checking the foil circuit board as the speedometer does not look accessible.

The 1994 is electronic the with a speed sensor on the transmission that sends pulses to the speedometer. If the Odometer is working then the sensor on the transmission is more than likely functioning correctly. These trucks are pretty notorious for this issue and usually it can be fixed by pulling the cluster apart, replacing the capacitors, fixing the circuit board if there has been any shorts and giving it a good cleaning. There are companies you can send the cluster off to and they will repair the circuit, test and send back to you.

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1 ton is 2000 pounds , so 1/2 ton is 1000 pounds

( 20 bags ) x 50 pounds = 1000 pounds

( 20 bags at 50 pounds each would be the MAXIMUM lifting capacity

of a 1/2 ton hoist )

* the first answer is not mine , the 2nd answer is , Helpfull

4 to 6 mpg (loaded).

If it only happens when cornering the I would say that its a driveshaft - otherwise, more information is required I had the exact same problem. It turned out that on the inside of the left front wheel, the brake shoe pin on the bottom was locked. This made the brake shoe dig into the router. When the brakes were applied, the sound would subside because the brake shoe flattened out and went into a normal position. The answer is you need new brakes and routers.

787

1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE The distributor cap is installed with the marked # 1 position facing to the rear and slightly towards the drivers side The engine cylinders / spark plugs are numbered : FIREWALL 4 - 8 3 - 7 2 - 6 1 - 5 FRONT

to replace the fuel pump-the gas tank must be lowered enough to gain access to the fuel pump located on top of the gas tank. there are fuel lines attached to

the pump. they get de-tached-then proceed to spin off the pump and remove

install proceedure in reverse

counterclockwise

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of Ford E-150 ( V8 )

There isn't one.

Take off the door panel and unbolt the mirror housing

On a 1996 Ford E-150 :

Rotate the headlight knob in your dash fully COUNTERCLOCKWISE to turn on

the courtesy and cargo lights

olive oil

Yes, you will have to remove the door panel. Go to this website. It will show how to remove the door panel and the side mirror. http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000310.pdf

The oil pressure switch in located just above and to the left of the oil filter. It fits into the same housing as the oil filter and is parallel with the rear of the engine block, just look from underneath the car in front of the inner right CV joint and you should see it (or at least track down the wire leading to it). I know this because I just changed mine recently. You'll need to remove the inner right CV joint to gain the best access to change out the switch. All you have to do is remove the wheel, the brake caliper, and un-do the ball joint from the control arm. Next just tap out the inner CV joint from the transmission buy using a big screw driver on the groove of the joint to drive it out with a hammer. Be mindful of the transmission seal! Pull the CV axle out of the way buy removing the control arm from the strut, then move the whole assembly clear of the trans. The way I replaced my switch is by removing it with a pair of vise grips, I didn't worry about damaging the old one anyway. Just intall the new switch carefully with channel-lock pliers and a bit of sealer on the threads. Don't forget the washer that goes on the switch, and tighten the whole thing down snug and every thing else is reverse of removal.

Your air bag light is flashing a code at you that means something is wrong with your air bag system

The information of the correct tire size of any American wehicle can be found on the sticker, located on the driver side door frame.

225/75-15 or 235/75-15 as it came equipped with both these sizes.

You did not mention the year

If it's a newer style DIN radio you can buy the DIN tools for a few dollars at most automotive parts stores.

http://www.durhamradio.ca/car-stereo-installation.htm

The Ford dealership sells the cables and also a cable/latch assemble for your van. The assembly is easier to install unless you are a really good and patient mechanic. My dealer printed a schematic out for me that really helped.