That happened to me I lit a match, chucked it in and hoped for the best.... :D
(ended up calling fire brigade)
B. The gas smell will eventually leave the inside of the car if you leave the windows down. I've added a related link to a webpage with a lot of recipes that will help you get rid of the gas smell and make the inside of your car smell better.
leave your windows down as much as you can if you can take out the object it spilled on and wash it if not clean the best you can with carpet cleaner and then spray a lot of air freshener
The best air freshener to use is Freshana AIRIA Air Purifier. It will naturally get rid of the smell instantly.
The metal exhaust pipes are coated with oil to prevent corrosion before sale. It should have stopped smelling withing 10 or 20 km on the highwayOrThere is a serious problem if it still there have the dealer check it.
White smoke = Coolant entering the combustion chamber. STOP driving this car until this is repaired or you will destroy this engine.
Black Smoke = Overly rich fuel/air mixture. Too much fuel not enough air. STOP driving until this is repaired or you will ruin the converter and O2 sensor and possible do other damage.
Blue Smoke = Engine is burning oil. Worn rings is normally the cause.
Because your burning your clutch.
A bad idle is caused by a problem with fuel or spark these are two different systems, both with multiple components. Let�s look at Spark first. When was the last time the ignition components were serviced? I don�t think tat you need an electrical service (commonly referred t as a tune up) the idle would be consistently poor. So let�s look at the Fuel side of the equation. There are a few things that can affect the air fuel ratio like carbon, and varnish. I would try to clean a few things up before wasting money on a fuel pressure regulator and especially on an idle air control valve. I recommend that you First check a plug to see its condition (only one if one is bad well you can figure the rest out) if the plug looks good move on: 1) Injection clean 2) throttle body and induction system clean 3) Carbon chemical clean More likely than not you have a carbon build up problem this causes a fuel soak condition that causes a hard start and a rough idle until the fuel burns off. Of course someone may tell you that you have a burnt valve but again this would cause a consistently poor running engine.
It sounds like fuel related. Depending on the year it could be a choke or the cold start sel. Does it smoke? What color smoke? Black would indicate rich mixture of fuel. Or it can be running to lean until it warms up.
the inside of your car will smell like exhaust if you have C.F (cabin filter) in you car and it has not been changed recently This may sound dumb, but some people may miss it. If you have a car in front of you that smells bad, or are in a smelly environment, and you don't have the recycle air button on, "fresh air" will enter the car.
Heater core is possible, coolant could be leaking externally onto engine and giving off that smell. Ruptured, cracked or leaking bypass hose; Ruptured, cracked or leaking heater hose; Worn or damaged radiator cap; Rusted, corroded, or damaged radiator may be leaking antifreeze/coolant; Loose, damaged, or faulty radiator drain plug; Worn or damaged cooling fan motor or circuit; Thermostat stuck closed; Cracked or leaking water outlet/hose; Damaged, worn or leaking water pump; Leaking or defective heater control valve; Freeze plugs are cracked or leaking. to smell burning anti freeze it would need to be leaking onto engine. most likely a small leak in a coolant hose somewhere, and even if it is heater core , it is sure not going to cost 500 bucks a heater core doesnt even cost 100 bucks to buy and they are easy to install
when changing the oil sometimes oil can be spilled on the engine block. as your engine heats up it causes this smell. it is completely normal
Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector; Leaking fuel filter or fuel filter connections; Punctured or damaged fuel tank; Loose or poorly connected fuel pump; Gas in gas can in trunk. = IN ADDITION TO THAT ANSWER, PONDER THIS... CARS HAVE A VACUUM FUEL CANISTER THAT MAY INCORPORATE A FILTER OF ITS OWN. I'M NOT SURE WHAT CONDITION MAKES THIS TANK TAKE ON FUEL (ITS AN OVERFLOW TANK, OF SORTS). HAVE THESE ITEMS CHECKED BY A MECHANIC YOU TRUST. HOPE THIS HELPS ! ! !
if you can smell gas whether the car is running or NOT that means you have a leak in your fuel system if it was not a leak, you would not smell it when not running . first thing is check under vehicle after overnight parking and see if there is fuel on the ground if there is , this will give you a starting point where to look for gas leak
shoes? or pads? (front) question needs to be more detailed
Most likely a clogged drain that drains A/C evaporator condensation.
Check your muffler and exhaust pipe for holes and also check your manifold gasket it may need replacing, exhaust fumes smell like faint fuel, if there is not leak this could be the problem.
This could be caused by a few different things....check the purge canister if the vehicle has one.....also check the fuel pressure regulator for a leaking diaphram.The air conditioning is "sucking" the fumes in from the purge canister or the pressure regulator.
Any fuel leak in the engine compartment can transfer into the cabin when the a/c is turned on. I doubt the exhaust would be confused with fuel but that's just my nose. Some vehicles have common recall problems such as the intrepid for fuel rails leaking. you should never smell fuel
May be separate problems. A small fuel leak in the engine may be the source of the 2 scents. A coolant leak may be the source of the poor heat and burning smell. Get it checked out before you have a serious problem. Next time you run the car, shut it off, lift the hood and try to smell where the source of raw fuel is, or any rising smoke.
yes ! very much so it is a mixture of chemicals and it can cause dizziness or worse, more permanent effects. it is some times used as an inhalant, witch is a type of drug and is very bad for you. try to avoid anti-freeze as much as you can. there has been deaths reported about inhaling anti-freeze.
Try neutralizing it with a baking soda and water solution then vacuum it out with a wet vac and let it completely air-dry.
Hope this helps!
sounds like your A.C. compressor clutch is locking up
Could be many things. Can't say exactly what. But, here are a few things I would check. Do you have trees in the area you park your car? If so, you could have leaves pine needle or other dibree in you heater vent that could have caught fire from your heater motor. I actually had this happen once, it filled my pickup cab with wood smoke. It smelled like that every time I used the heater until I sold the truck. You heater core could have a leak and the antifreeze smell could be coming through your vents. Or your heater motor itself could be going bad and melting the winding on the motor armiture. I'm sure there could be other things like electrical shorts, lost cigar behind the ashtray. Hope that gives some help.
I just put a motor in my truck TPI 350, and same thing happened to me, i automatically thought head gaskets so i tore it down replaced them... put it back together and its still there...... Im starting to think its fuel related (smells like gas, not like antifreeze) I noticed my fuel rail isn't holding pressure , maybe an injector is sticking wide open, because i have hered that raw unburnt fuel can cause white smoke..... check ur injectors, fuel pressure regulator and all that stuff..........
To check if the head gaskets are blown, do a compression check on each cylinder and compare values. You can also do a leak down and see if there is a cylinder that is out of spec. You can also check the injectors with a scan tool. You can purchase this for normally about $40 froma parts store or even Walmart. Run the Key on Engine Running (KOER) test, follow this with a pressing of the gas pedal while the computer is giving you the codes it read. This will initiate a fuel injector test, where the computer will vary the engine RPM and injector pulse to test the injectors. This should help you trace the problem....
I had a similar problem with my 94 mustang. My problem was that the CPU (computer) went on it. It began to tell the number 5 injector to stay open which flooded the cylinder with gas. This killed the spark plug so the gas couldn�t burn itself off either. This caused WHITE SMOKE to come from the exhaust. As well, because the rings on the piston are only designed to stop oil which is thick and air, the gas that pooled in the cylinder drained down into the oil. Which sucked because I had just done an oil change the night before.
Phil, Mississauga Ontario
Phil is probably correct. I went through the same thing with my 94 and nothing helped until we realized the computer had stuck the #6 injector wide open. for some reason, the computers in these cars seem to draw moisture to them to help them corrode. I'd check your computer before anything else...plus it's not actually all that expensive to change.
Phil i must say that you guys are right my daughter has a 94 mustang that encounterd the same symptoms.(the flooding)after pulling it apart. but only to change#6 injecter (that was stuck open) put it back together started it up still smelt like a gas can. and still smoked (white) and poured raw gas out tailpipe. no traces of water in crankcase or oil in radiator...(i decided to go on your answer and low and behold)( NOT A HEAD GASKET) i changed the computer located on the passengers kick panel and that silver box did it. runs like new. thanks a billion total bill $100 from a auto wrecker..thanks again......and its weird that it was the same cylinder #6 it acually killed the ground for that#6 (fuel injector)
...David and Britt .... Vancouver (Langley) BC
It depands on what engine you have but none are REAL hard. You will need guidance though and the best way is to get a manual on your vehicle and you will have it for this repair and also for the next one.
If your 1998 is the same as my 1997 with a 5.7, you will also need a special wrench to remove the fan clutch. It is retained with a large, left hand thread nut, instead of the 4 small bolts of past models.
Are you sure its a left hand thread?
They are standard threads. Righty Tighty - Lefty Lousy. You don't need any special tools/wrencherszperiodz You loosen up two of the ten millimeter bolts holding the fan on, but not all the way. Lodge the wrench in there to hold the water pump from turning. Put a large adjustable wrench on the big nut for the fan clutch and smack it with a ball pein hammer. The threads should not be super tight on the fan clutch. This can be done by one person. I've done it many times by myself.
There is a possibility you could have a punctured fuel line or the fuel pump could be going bad. Depending on how old the vehicle is, the fuel hoses could be old and cracked. Double check your hoses and fuel pump. The are relatively inexpensive to replace if you feel comfortable working on your own vehicle. Apart from fuel system that handles gasoline, a car also has a system called evaporative system. This closed loop system is to avoid gasoline fumes to be released into the air. The system consists of the fuel tank, gas cap, charcoal canister, purge control valve and the ECU. Failure to any of this system epecially to the canister, PCV and pipe leak will result in gasoline smell in your car. This system is the most overlooked part of a car. The car will still run smoothly if this system is busted but it will release gasoline fumes (hydrocarbons) into the air which also a pollutant.
Sounds like the catalatic converter is either pluging up or starting to fail. Either way if this is the problem it will either start having worse performance or just stop runing entirly.
I had this same problem and it was a faulty fuel injector. Check to see if it is wet around any of your fuel injectors.
I have a 1992 q45 I had the same problem i changed my back cats and it still did the same thing coul it be my front ones to
I have a 1995 Mazda 626, I have a similar problem. It dies right at 15 seconds after I hit the gas and remain at 3500 RPM, and I can hardly get up a hill. I have already changed the fuel pump, the injectors were fine, the O2 sensors were fine, changed the air filter, no clogs in the fuel delivery system (yes changed the fuel filter too), changed the plugs and wires, changed the fuel regulator... the only thing left is the catalytic converter is plugged... it's as if my car has asthma, so I'm looking at the Throttle position sensor. Will keep you updated.
I have this cutting out problem and i think Ive managed to diagnose mine to a faulty fuel pump as you can sometimes hear it activate but when you don't the car does not start. but anyway this is what i tried. fortunately my sister has same cars as me, maybe some of these will help you diagnose your problem.
- throttle position sensor
- crankshaft sensor.
- camshaft sensor
- fuel pump fuse/relay
- lambda sensor
- Cat could be broken up and blocked exhaust system causing poor flow.
You could have blown a head gasket, but probably not. You probably cracked your injector sleeves. You need to have the cooling system pressure tested with the injectors out. You'll also need to find mechanic with the special tap for the sleeves if they're bad. Try not go to Ford; they charge a ton to fix them. The parts are not expensive, just the labor. Be sure the mechanic knows about proper care of the coolant system afterward since the diesel fuel quickly contaminates the coolant.
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