• 
• 2 answers

That's impossible, don't do it.

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

Sixth fuse slot in the upper row of the under dash fuse box. 15A (blue)

• 
• 1 answer

Hey Jeremy==It is close to or on the accumulator. GoodluckJoe

• 
• 1 answer

I am pretty sure it is underneath the car passenger side. It is a bigger sized filter.

EDIT:

4 cylinder engine has the filter at the rear of the engine on the passenger side.

On V-6 cars, the filter is at the front of the engine. When you drain the oil on the v-6 wrap the rear exhaust pipe near the drain plug with aluminum foil. It is almost impossible to avoid getting oil on it, and this will save you some headache.

Both are best accessed from under the car and both are a bit of a pain for the first timer, but after a few tries it gets easy to do yourself.

Despite their reputation on the internet, these are great cars to own. Be aggressive with the automatic transmission maintenance and you'll be happy for 200,000 miles like I have been.

• 
• 1 answer

It is a small rubber plug on the bottom passenger side of radiator, just below the lower hose.

• 
• 1 answer

There really are no adjustments you can make, the MacPhereson struts are pretty much "fixed" in how they're mounted. There is a "kit" available from a company called SPC that replaces a plate at the top of the strut, and allows for Caster/Camber adjustment. The struts need to be removed to install the plates. It's really only necessary if you're "lowering" or altering the front end geometry to an extreme.

If you're having tire wear issues, and alignments don't seem to help (or "hold"), the inner bushings on your forward lower control arms are probably worn out. On your year/model, there are four bolts that hold the lower control arms into the front sub-frame. The 2 bushings lay in the front sub-frame horizontally, facing fore and aft. Once these bushings wear out, toe control of the front wheels is almost impossible to maintain. "Cupping" wear on the inside of the front tires is the usual symptom. The bushing themselves are not individaully replacable, the whole lower control arm needs to be removed and replaced. Complete lower front control arms (that include new bushings, and ball joints) are available for anywhere from $85 to $110 each. Depending on the number of miles on the car, you may want to consider replacing the struts too. Anything over 85K miles or so, is probably in need or strut replacement. Taking it to a tire shop or alignment technician, should be able to help you diagnose what is worn and needs replacing.

Sorry if it comes as "bad news". It could be expensive unless you're reasonably handy with tools. An excellent resource for answers about these cars is: www.contour.org A Ford Contour, and a Mercury Mystique are essentially the same car with minor variations

• 
• 1 answer

You must remove the entire rear fender.

• 
• 1 answer

Hey Melissa==It can be a bunch of things from a leaking radiator to blown head gaskets. Take it to a reptuable garage and have it checked out. GoodluckJoe Do you see antifreeze underneath the vehicle? After letting the engine warm up, open the hood and look for any visible signs of antifreeze leaking anywhere. Have someone check to make sure the drain valve is closed if you are unsure of where it is located. Check the dipstick, if you have a blown head gasket you may see signs of water mixed with the oil - this will look like small bubbles mixed in with the oil. Also, the vehicle may give off white "smoke" while running. Its also possible there could be a crack in the radiator, which happened to my Altima. It had developed a crack on the top of the radiator near a mounting location. The 97 had an aluminum radiator, most places you take it to will try and sell you a whole new radiator. If in fact you do find a crack, call around to some of the local repair places (for example NOT a Pepboys or similar location). Some of the smaller businesses still do repairs on radiators. A crack could be silver soldered depending on the severity.

• 
• 1 answer

Just changed mine. Make sure you have all the tools you need and take your time.1 Disconnect Battery. 2 Unbolt power steering tube (metal tube parallel to belt, held at engine lift 'eye' and beside exhaust manifold)

3 Remove right-hand {timing belt side} mount. (Use of support for engine, optional). 4 Use an offset box-end 13MM to loosen-only 3 water pump pulley bolts 5 Remove valve cover including... -Complete airfilter assembly -Accelerator cable, held by a U-shaped clip...pull up -Remove crankcase breather hose (hose that goes from filter to v.cover) -Cruise cable (I couldn't, I think you have to break the plastic to do it) Didn't get in the way anyways. -Remove Spark Plugs and Wires -In stages, � or full turn increments, loosen v.cover bolts. Remove V.Cover. -Place rags in Plug Holes (if I didn't I'd have the other half of a mouse nest in my cylinder!) 6 Remove Serp Belt -Support right-side of car -Remove the wheel and plastic covers in inner fender. If old belt to be re-used, mark the direction it went, so as to put it back on the right way. -With a 13MM socket, turn the tensioner AWAY or counter-clockwise. If it doens't move it's clockwise.

7 Rotate crank pulley until the 2nd pair of (very small) notches align with the edge of the oil pan mark, and you're at TDC when the "Ford Service Tool 21-162" or a hunk of metal 0.20 Inch thick by 8 inches long and over 1 inch wide slides in the grooves at the other end of the camshafts. If one cam is slighty out, you can use a 1" wrench on the cam (the areas not round) to get the metal strip to fit. - If the slots in the cams are way out rotate the crank 360 Degrees, should fit.

8 Remove Waterpump (WP) pulley and drivebelt Idler Pulley

9 Remove the Crankshaft Pulley. And don't think the metal holding the cams will suffice... As you can see, the dealer or previous owner didn't, and broke my cam, and didn't replace it

Here's how I got it off. -You need a metal tube to put over the socket (as a breaker bar) - A Large Flat Screwdriver - Maybe another person Haynes said to get an assistant to put it in 5th and lay on the Brakes....didn't do anything for my car. So I did this

I've removed the flywheel dust cover. This is exactly where is rests against and hence allows you to do this job by yourself as I did. On Automatics, the only way that I know is remove the starter and wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel as I did. -While you're at it, buy an aftermarket Pulley (aka Underdriven, you can use the same ones foci and cougars use, just make sure they have the key-slot in the centre) 10 Remove the other Timing Belt metal covers. 11 Loosen the Timing Belt Tensioner with a 10MM socket. Then rotate it with an Allen Key inserted in it, clockwise, to the slackest point possible. 12 Replace any worn or damages parts. Belt, Pulleys, Bolts, WP. 13 Place Crank pulley back on and see if your cams are aligned with your marks on the crank pulley. Then remove. 14 "Ford Service tool 15-030A" or a forked tool= steel strip 23.5 long and another 8 in with 3 bolts/nuts/washers with one bolt as the pivot point and the other 2 to rest inside the sprocket, if you need to loosen and retighten the camshaft pulleys (If the cams align but the sprocket doesn't and you need to move just the sprocket by unscrewing the nut holding the sprocket)

15 Install Belt. Start at Crank, then goto tensioner (which is loose). Belt Should slip on, but it WILL be almost a 2 man job. Just put the belt on squarely, not too much on either side, otherwise it won't "slip" on. 16 Tighten Tensioner Pulley with Allan Key and tighten the 10MM bolt. 17 Remove Cam Hold Tool and place Crank pulley on and rotate 2 full turns (720 Degrees) and returning to TDC using the pulley marks. The Cam Hold Tool should slip into place -If only marginally off, use forked tool and adjust the position, with the tensioner taking up slack. Rotate the crank another 720 Deg. And check again. -If off a lot, use forked tool and loosen the cam bolt, making sure you don't lose the position of the belt and sprocket. Using that 1" open wrench, gently turn the cam till it Does fit the Cam Hold Tool. Tighten the Camshaft bolt, making sure you don't lose the position of the belt and sprocket. Remove Cam Hold Tool and rotate 720 Degrees. It better work now. 18 Now all is well... -place cam hold tool back in and tighten the timing belt tensioner bolt to 18 Ft-Lbs -using forked tool to hold the position, checking the camshaft bolts torque Intake-50 Exhaust-88 Ft/Lbs(if necessary) -Remove Cam hold tool and rotate another 720 Degrees and install cam lock one more time! Now reassembly is in reverse.

All TQ Specs Taken from the Haynes Manual (in Ft/Lbs unless stated) V.Cover Bolts- 62 In-Lbs Timing Belt Idler Pulley Bolts- 38 Timing Belt Centre Metal Cover Bolts- 36 Timing Belt Tensioner Bolt- 18 Timing Belt Sprocket to Camshaft Bolts (step 17) 1998- Intake 50 Exhaust 88 1999/00- Intake 50 Exhaust 44 then 89 Waterpump bolts- 89-124 In/Lbs (can't get a TQ wrench in there anyways) Serp Belt Idler Pulley 1998- 35 1999/00- 30 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt- 81-89 Right-Hand Mount -Bracket-to-engine and mount nuts- 61-66 -Mount-to-body bolts- 82

• 
• 2 answers

• 
• 1 answer

The impeller is either clogged with something, your filter is clogged or your pump motor has a defect. The pump is working very hard so it heats up. You said you vacuumed? My bet is on the clogged filter!

Well, the filter, the large tank, would never have aburnt smell. Ya gotta be talkin' about the pump motor. Turn off the motor, get down and sniff towards the back side of the motor being careful not to put your hand on the motor as it may be hot to the touch. If the motor smells like burning wires then the motor may be getting ready to crash. How old is the motor? Did you empty the pump basket after vacuuming? A dirty filter usually will not cause the motor to burn.

• 
• 1 answer

If your car is V-6 2500c.c. DOHC you will find an aluminum housing with two bolts facing the radiator placed in between hoses on the drivers side of you motor. they will be between the motor and the battery just below the battery tray. if you remove the two bolts the housing will separate and expose the thermostat. Note weep hole goes in upwards.

• 
• 1 answer

Have you checked the Contour.org web page and forums? Lots of great information out there for us Contour and Mystique owners. Need to jack up car on right side. Lay down under the car and look up at the belt. use a wrench or socket on the tensioner to get slack in the belt. Pull the belt off when you get enough slack. Get your new bel on all the pulleys and pull the tensioner back up and slip the new belt on.

• 
• 1 answer

Chilton repair manual sez: Exhaust pressure high / EGR (PFE/DPFE) circuit voltage higher than expected. (goggomobil)

• 
• 1 answer

i have a 1998 mystique 2.5. it was over heating and kept getting a little worst each week. then it got to a point where you couldn't drive to the store without it going up to the red mark.it also totally stoped blowing hot air.i took it to the garage and they told me the head gasket was gone. they said best case was 2400 but if the block was cracked the motor was done.i was told it wasent worth fixing.bs i thought ,no heat, no white smoke,and no leaks. i took the water pump off and every blade was gone off the impeller plus it had broke rigth in half.plastic crap.i replaced it and now it never goes above the r in normal even idiling in traffic.i would always check the small things first and don't believe the so called mechenics , half don't know what their talking about.if i let them replace the head gasket then they found it was still overheating and checked the water pump then replaced that would they have still charged me for unnessasary work?what do you think?

Robert. I do own a 1995 2.0 litre mystique it's got the same enging as 1996 mystique and it also runned hotter than is suppose to run and everybody was telling me that those mystiques were made to run hotter that other cars. I also couldn't get use to that high temperature, but after a wile I did got use to it and drove that car for about two years until I noticed a little bid of cooling fluid leaking out somewhere between the head and thermostat housing. Well I was told by some mechanic that it is typical for those cars because the head is aluminum and the housing is plastic and after so many years specially in the winter time metal and plastic expand and that's why you get a leak, and of course I belived in that because it did leaked more in the winter than the summer. Than I noticed it was leaking more and moere so I decided to change the thermostat housing put the new one. I went to my trusted mechanic and than it suppose to be just a housing. I just couldn't belive what I was driving for two years, I was driving with blown head gasket and they way I was explained by the mechanic when the head gasket goes the first sign is your temperature would go higher then normal and than usually it blows totally or sometimes like in my situation when the gasket goes slowly it creates high pressure in the cooling system it can like again in my situation blow your thermostat housing or anyting that is related to cooling system. And now when my head gasket is replaced I get the temperature about half and below no more than that.

My suggestion is to check with your mechanic for the head gasket. The sooner the better, the sooner you go the sooner you find out what it is and you can propobly save yourself money for the other parts that can brake because of that.

My 98 Mystique also runs really hot and the heat gauge doesn't work so I'm completely left to guess at the engine.

There is the possibility of a faulty sensor or indicator, but some do run a little hot. I solved my problem with fresh coolant, some Water-Wetter, and a 160 degree thermostat for a '96 Mustang. Stant 13396. The temp stays at about the 'O' in normal. Only rarely in stop & go traffic during summer does the temp climb above 1/2 way, then the fans kick in anyway so no problem with overheating - ever.

ANSWER

NO Car is supposed to run hot! if your mystique runs hot all the time, change your thermostat. if your gauge doesn't work, change your heater-temp sensor. if your engine is cold and you start your car and pressure builds up in the radiator reservoir, has oil in the coolant, oil residue all over your engine and white smoke, you are in more likely to have your head gaskets blown. if these symptoms show up, you need to make replacements. dont go to a mechanic to get the work done. do it yourself! if you want the car to run good, do it yourself. I have had the opportunity to restore my head gaskets on my 1996 mystique, but my engine was a 2.5L Dual Overhead Cam. A much bigger engine than the 4-cylinder. i got to learn a lot about cars. look in the internet to do it. a mystique was my first car, now its my brother's and has been running for 4 years without any repair needed. If you think you need help, call a friend who has more affiliation with a car's engine and work on it together instead of spending up to 4k in cheap repairs.

• 
• 1 answer

No there is only one wire for the radio antenna unless you have an extension on it or after market part . But then again I'm not sure if i know what your trying to ask . But that's the best i can do for you with the info I'm getting !

• 
• 1 answer

1 disconnect (-) battery cable

2 remove door panel

3 remove speaker

4 unplug 'door open' warning switch

5 disconnect pigtail electrical connector for outside door lock illumination light (if u have that)

6 remove 2 retaining nuts for outside door handle and trim... lower the outside trim from door

7 unplug power door lock plunger and door handle illumination connector

8 remove 2 screws that hold the front door latch control and link to door

9 remove the three screws that hold the latch (on outside, around the v shaped cutout for pillar pin)

10 latch should come out by moving it forward and rotating the whole assembly out of the door

(goggomobil)

• 
• 1 answer

Mercury Mystique with V6 engine has two oxygen sensors. First one located between radiator and engine, second - behind the engine, near the coil pack (below). It's not very difficult to replace them.

• 
• 1 answer

On the Mercury like a lot of other cars, what happens is the relay for the fan control goes bad, somtimes you may just have low and high no medium but a lot of the time you just get high speed, thie is also very common on a lot of GM's. There is a resistor pack located on the heater core housing just below the glove box. When this goes bad, the fan will only function on high. It's an easy repair. Just one screw and an electrical cnnection. it is called a blow motor resistor it cost about 20 bucks from the dealer itis easy to install just one screw and a plug

• 
• 1 answer

Need to check to make sure your coolant level is ok. Do you have a gauge? Is it running hot?

Ans: The level sensor in these cars is sensitive. Typically adding a few ounces of coolant to the reservoir until the level is just above the upper hose will solve the issue. If you still have a coolant light, the sensor has failed. It is easy to replace.

• 
• 1 answer

With proper maintenance and not being abused-probably around 150K I own a 99 with 145000 miles and it still runs like a top. Take care of it and it should easily last 250K

• 
• 1 answer

I just replaced mine last night. Its located in the front right between the grill and the radiator( probably directly inside the hood from where you license plate would go) . we needed a special socket to reach in and remove it . The space is limited when trying to reach down with your hand. This is an edit to the answer above: There are TWO O2 sensors on the car. One (the front one) is located as mentioned above. The rear O2 sensor is located underneath the front passenger side of the car (you will have to jack the car up to replace it).

• 
• 1 answer

Change the transmission fluid and filter. If you see no improvement, take it to a transmission shop. We had a similar problem, and it ended up being a sensor in the transmission. I have a 1998 v6 which started to do the same thing. I was told by the transmission shop this is not an uncommon problem with Ford products. We replaced sensors, servo, solenoid, etc., problem kept coming back. Last time it was a valve body repair. It's still doing it. Next step is a new tranny - more likely I'm gonna trade it in for a new Honda. Good luck!

• 
• 1 answer

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us70444.htm

According to the website above. It will not suffer severe engine damage if the timing belt breaks. However you should still get the belt changed every 60,000 miles.

It is a non-interferrence engine. The valves generally will not be damaged by the cylinder if the timing belt breaks, however engine wear & high engine speeds can play a roll in this equation. There have been a few occasions of higher mileage vehicles experiencing valve damage. The change interval in the published in the manual for the 1999 Contour is 130,000 miles. Change the belt every 100,000 or 6 years & you should be fine. Be certain you get an entire timing belt kit installed as the idler & tensioner pullies are wear items as well. This is also generally a good time to replace the water pump as the labor is only another 15 minutes or so plus the pump cost.