(Licenced Technician) -- 1990 Mercury Grand Marquis does not use struts. It uses coil springs with separate shocks for the front and rear - except for some of the upscale trim Grand Marquis models, which run computer-controlled air suspension in the rear. Why are you wanting the "struts" changed? Are you having handling problems? Does the car sit low on one side? I have owned a 1991 Crown Vic and a 1989 Grand Marquis; front shocks are not really difficult (for me) to change; front coil springs are much more difficult. These cars were known for sometimes breaking coil springs. Unless you have a good solid garage floor, a couple of floor jacks, a complete set of line-up bars, and access to air tools, I would not recommend doing this job yourself. Hope this helps.

Remove the switch panel by prying upwards with a flat screw driver once the panel pops out the group of switches will have some screws usually 4 or 5 then pry around the locking tabs it should pop out allowing you to remove each individual switch.

fans are driven electronically no belt. The serpentine belt is taken off by taking the tension off at the tensioner and replacing by following the pattern on your strut tower.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Using a 3/8" drive, release tension on the tensioner and slip the belt off of an accessory.

3. Loosen the passenger side front wheel lug nuts, then raise front of vehicle and remove wheel.

4. Reinstall two adjacent lug nuts onto the brake rotor and using a prybar on the lugnuts and a socket with a breaker bar, loosen and remove the nut from the splined half shaft(this nut supposedly looses its torque ability and needs to be replaced after being loosened).

5. Remove the Stabilizer bar link. This will require two wrenches, one placed near the rubber seal area. (This step caused me a 3-day delay as I had to order a new one when the nut broke off with the bolt intake)

6. Remove the steering knuckle pinch bolt and separate the ball joint from the "A"-shaped suspension component with the appropriate tool or prybar.

7. Remove the "Y"-shaped exhaust pipe from underneath the vehicle. Spraying a lubricant on the 6 studs and nuts will aid the removal of these nuts. (Stripping of these threads is easily done with the galling that can happen from the hot conditions it has undergone. This accounts to adding another 3 days to my repair.If possible tighten the nut 1/8 of a turn before removing to keep from pulling rust into threads)

8. Remove the half shaft after extracting it from the steering nuckle. (It may be just as easy to remove the nuckle prior to removal of the half shaft, even though this requires removing the ABS sensor, brake caliper, and rotor.) A slide hammer can assist on freeing the half shaft from the other half shaft.

9. Loosen the 5 nuts needed to remove the half shaft that goes into the transmission. Apparently this half shaft is balanced from the factory and should be reinstalled in the same allignment, so mark the transaxle and the half shaft to make this possible. Remove the half shaft.

10. There are 3 electrical connections to the alternator: a 3-pin connector that can be removed by slipping off the clip, a 1-pin connector that is removed by gently prying the plastic clip portion up, and a battery cable sized cable that attaches with a nut that can be removed with a 3/16" socket.

11. There are now 4 bolts that need to be loosened before the alternator can be removed. Three of the bolts are easily reached, while the 4th is not visible and will have to be felt for. A 13mm socket will be needed to remove these bolts. The exhaust manifold and the attached O2 sensor blocks access to the hidden bolt, and removal of the manifold has its own set of hidden bolts which makes removal of the manifold to access the alternator bolt unfeasible.

12. Installation is the reverse of the above, but it is highly recommended that you replace the O2 sensor that is now exposed. It uses a square connector, not a round one like the more accessible "catalyst monitor" sensors. This vehicle has a whopping 4 sensors distributed over 2 banks. If you choose to replace this sensor, a tip on removing the electrical connector: find a 3-inch or so 3/16" diameter or less piece of metal(I used a tap) and using one hand to feel for the access hole which will point to the rear of the vehicle, use the other hand with the metal piece to insert into the hole and releasing the clip, pull on the connector to disconect the heated oxygen sensor. Alternative method This task can also be accomplished WITHOUT removing the drive shafts.

Jack the car up as high as possible and support with jack stands.

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the passenger side wheel & inner fender well covers

3. Remove the exhaust Y-pipe. Soak the seven nuts with penetrating lubricant.

4. Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator.

5. Unbolt the upper roll bar mounting point from the strut.

6. Unbolt the steering joint & press out of the steering arm.

At this point you should be able to see the bottom portion of the alternator.

7. From under the car you should see a bracket that supports the intemediate shaft. Unbolt the two nuts that connect the intermediate shaft bearing to the bracket.

8. Unbolt the three bolts that hold the bracket to the engine. Then remove the bracket. You now have enough room to get to the alternator bolts.

9. Use a 13mm socket with a universal joint on the end of a long extension to get to the upper alternator bolt. I was able to reach around into the wheel well with my right hand up to the top of the alternator bolt to help guide the socket onto the bolt.

10. The bottom bolt is easy to get to. But the universal makes it a little easier, because the Intermediate shaft is still there.

11. The rear alternator bracket is removed with a 10mm socket.

12. Once the bolts are out you make need to pry the alternator out of the bottom of its mount.

13. Once loose, pivot the alternator on its pulley down towards the control arm. If you are having problems bringing the alternator down past the rubber boot, just rotate the brake disk and it will walk the alternator out. You will have easy access to the electrical connections.

Replace with new alternator and reverse the process.

Oxygen Sensor There are actually (4) O2 sensors on your truck. If you look inside the wheel wells behind the fender liner, right about where the frame is one O2 sensor, the other is underneath the truck about half way back in relation to the transmission. If you see where the exhaust joints together, you went about 6" too far.

When you start looking at the O2 sensors, they are normally numbered something like "Bank 1 Sensor 1" Bank 1 is on the passenger side; Bank 2 is on the driver's side. Sensor 1 is the upstream sensor (near the frame, between the block and the cat) and Sensor 2 is near the Y-pipe (downstream of the cat).

Normally it is the upstream sensors (sensor 1) that go first. They see the harshest conditions. You will need; Oxygen Sensor Socket Anti-Seized Penetrating Oil Sometimes it will take 15 minutes or take a few hours it depends on your luck…

This happened to me today on a major highway. The Ford garage told me it is a transmission problem. Check transmission problem solutions here in this blog. Solenoids, etc. It means your transmission is slipping, that happens in a lot of mercury mystiques. not all true there is a throttle position sensor or T.P.S. on your throttlebody try that its way cheaper than transmission

According to the 1999 Mercury Mystique Owner Guide ( 5W-30 )

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.0 litre four cylinder engine takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

The 2.5 litre V6 engine takes ( 5.8 quarts of 5W-30 )

The fuse box is under the dash drivers side.Locate the fuse location from the manual.Pull down on fuse.Replace with fuse of same amp.No hiden problems to worry about.

R134

Duck tape should do the trick

I would be suspicious of the shift solenoids, this model I believe has 2 of them, along with a tcc solenoid.

There is a low pressure switch located on the suction accumulator/drier which is located under the hood of the engine compartment. Standing in front of the engine compartment look straight down a little to your right up close to the engine radiator and see the drier. There are 2 refrigerant lines and an electrical connection on the drier, this connector is connected to the low pressure switch on the drier. Hope this helps you. Serg.............

YOU DON'T , REPLACE IT ... IMEAN THERE ARE TIMES THAT PEOPLE SAY CLEAN IT, BUT THATS A COMMON MISTAKE, YOU WOULD HAVE TO REPLACE IT.

The Feminine Mystique was created on 1963-02-19.

The starter on a 98 Ford Contour SE is changed by disconnecting the battery, jacking the vehicle up, and removing the starter shield. The retaining bolts and bracket can then be removed, the wires disconnected, and the starter removed.

It smells like you

The thread on cap on your engine coolant reservoir is the pressure cap /

radiator cap on a 1999 Mercury Mystique

It is under the instrument panel, left of the steering column.

There is a button to push that releases the fuse block and it drops down.

Be very careful, there is a large red wire coming from the power distribution block under the hood. It is in a connector with a green wire. They connect to the back of the fuse block.

This wire feeds the heater blower among other things.

If it is loosened in any way, it will overheat and melt the connector and damage the fuse block.

I know from personal experience. I am looking for a fuse block and connector.

You will need to remove the tire and wheel. Remove the nut from the top of the ball joint. Pound the ball joint out with a hammer. Reverse the process to install the new ball joint.

This proceedure may sound involved, but it is quite easy. Just a matter of finding all the fasteners (screws).

There are three or four small, exposed screws to remove along the bottom & side of the panel. Additionally, there is a plastic cover over the center of the door handle that must be removed. A flat screwdriver works well, just be gentle to avoid any noticable scratches to the trim. Under it you will find another screw to remove. Also remove the small plastic plugs - one on the door arm rest, the other on the panel - and remove them to access two more screws. The small, triangular trim piece at the corner of the front window adjacent the mirror will need to be removed. There is a plastic plug & screw to remove as well. The plug over the triagular trim gave me trouble as it's hard plastic & quite snug. I simply drove a screw into it about 1/4 inch and pulled it out by the screw, then replaced it with a new one when done. The last screw is under the paddle that opens the door. It simply holds the plastic trim in place. Depending on model year, there may or may not be a plastic plug covering it.

Finally, with all the screws removed, pull the window switch up and unplug it, and set it aside. Now gently pull the bottom of the panel away from the door a few inches and lift the panel. Focus most of the lifting at the end away from the mirror as the mirror hardware may still be a bit of an obstruction.

A person should know the location of the fuses and relays of a vehicle. The PMC relay for this car is usually located under the driver side dashboard.?æ

The fuel pump is underneath the back seat, lift this seat up pull a black cap off on pass. side and you should be staring at it.