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While the manufacturer has not recommended a mileage interval for changing the timing belt on a 1998 Ford Contour, experienced technicians recommend changing the belt at 60,000 miles, according to Autodata's timing belt book. The engine is an interference engine, which means that should the timing belt stretch past its useful life or break, the valves will most likely contact the pistons, causing extreme engine damage. This procedure uses special tools that are available at the dealership.

1.

Step 1

Disconnect the battery ground cable, using a wrench. Raise the front of the Contour with the floor jack, then support it with jack stands. Remove the right-front wheel, using the lug wrench. Remove the lower splash guard for the engine and the right, inner fender lower splash guard.

2.

Step 2

Mark the direction of rotation on the accessory belt, using chalk or correction fluid to draw an arrow. Loosen the accessory belt tensioner with a wrench, then remove the accessory drive belt. Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley and the accessory drive belt tensioner, using the appropriate size sockets.

3.

Step 3

Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. Number the spark plug wires so you know where they go when you replace them. Pull the spark plug wires of the plugs, then remove the spark plugs. Carefully slide the screwdriver into the number 1 piston hole until it contacts the piston. Turn the crankshaft until you feel the piston (via the screwdriver) come all the way to the top of the piston bore. At the same time, watch the timing marks on the crankshaft. The engine is on top dead center when the mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the mark on the 5 o'clock position on the block, next to the crankshaft pulley. If the marks line up, but the piston is not all the way to the top of the bore, turn the crankshaft once more and everything will line up.

4.

Step 4

Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and the crankshaft pulley, using the appropriate sockets. Make sure the crankshaft does not turn while you are removing the pulley. If it does, repeat Step 3. Remove the lower timing belt cover.

5.

Step 5

Loosen the bolts on the left and right engine mounts. Do not remove the bolts--they need only to be loosened enough so that the engine can move a little bit. Unbolt the radiator overflow tank, but do not disconnect the hoses. Lay the overflow tank out of the way. Disconnect the cruise control cable with the appropriate socket or wrench. The cruise control cable is located on the throttle.

6.

Step 6

Support the engine by placing the 2-by-4-inch board on the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the engine and jack it up until it contacts the bottom of the engine. Remove the front engine mount, using the appropriate socket.

7.

Step 7

Remove the power steering pipe bracket, the upper timing belt cover and the front engine mount bracket, using the appropriate sockets. Disconnect the accelerator cable and the cruise control cable from the valve cover. Remove the valve cover.

8.

Step 8

Slide the camshaft alignment tool into the slots at the rear of the camshafts. Loosen the tensioner bolt, but do not remove it. Turn the tensioner clockwise with the appropriate-size Allen wrench, releasing tension on the belt. Unscrew the tensioner retaining bolt four turns. Unhook the tensioner bracket from the metal clip behind the tensioner.

9.

Step 9

Remove the plug from the center of the exhaust side camshaft (the right camshaft when you are looking down at the engine) by unscrewing it. Using the appropriate wrench, hold the camshaft by putting the wrench on the hexagon-shaped end of the camshaft where you removed the plug. Loosen the retaining bolts on both camshaft sprockets. Remove the timing belt. Check the valve on the number 4 cylinder. The camshaft lobe should be facing inward.

10.

Step 10

Install the crankshaft pulley, making sure the notch and the pointer are lined up. Remove the plug from the engine block, next to the motor mount bracket. Install the crankshaft timing pin. Adjust the crankshaft until it rests against the timing pin. Make sure all the timing marks stay lined up. Remove the crankshaft pulley.

11.

Step 11

Install the new timing belt around the crankshaft sprocket, working your way counterclockwise, keeping the timing belt tight on the side opposite the tensioner. The timing belt route goes on the inside of the two idler pulleys, then around the outside of the camshafts and the inside of the tensioner. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still pushed up against the timing pin. Hook the tensioner bracket on the metal clip.

12.

Step 12

Turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the appropriate-size Allen wrench, until the pointer is lined up with the mark located halfway between the 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock position. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 18.5 ft-lbs. of torque, then remove the Allen wrench.

13.

Step 13

Hold the camshaft by putting a wrench on the hexagon part of the shaft. Tighten the intake sprocket retaining bolt to 50 ft-lbs. of torque. Tighten the exhaust sprocket retaining bolt to 44 ft-lbs. of torque. Remove the crankshaft timing pin and the camshaft alignment tools.

14.

Step 14

Hold the exhaust camshaft by placing a wrench on the hexagon part of the camshaft. Torque the exhaust sprocket retaining bolt to 89 ft-lbs. of torque. Turn the crankshaft almost two turns (slowly). Reinstall the crankshaft timing pin. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until it touches the timing pin. Reinstall the camshaft tool in the camshaft slots to make sure it slides in smoothly. If it doesn't, remove the belt and repeat the procedure.

15.

Step 15

Remove the camshaft tool and the crankshaft timing pin. Install a new plug into the exhaust camshaft sprocket and torque the plug to 27 ft-lbs. of torque. Install the plug into the crankshaft timing pin hole and tighten it to 18.5 ft-lbs. of torque. Install the rest of the parts in reverse order of removal. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 85 ft-lbs. of torque.

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you either rip it off or get a sluge hammer and break it off

You'd have a hard time getting a hammer where you could get any force on a Ford 4x4, driver-side axle bumper, and you don't want to remove the coil spring and shock to do it, so, I took s large crescent wrench, gripped the old bumper and slowly and painfully turned it out. On mine the bumper is threaded into the frame, not on a separate nut. Be prepared to bark your knuckles and swear softly if there are children or wives present.

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Owner of a 98 bi-fuel countour that runs like a typical ford. Half the time it will only run on unleaded...not very enviro friendly. Ford isn't much of a help...local dealer isn't authorized and the nearest authorized dealer is 2 1/2 hours away. They seem to know what they are doing and honor the warrenty...but the bi-fuel systems seem to have a lot of issues...more headaches then it is worth even if Natural Gas is cheaper than unleaded.

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The 1996 Ford Contour owners manual shows : Use only power steering fluid that meets Ford specification ESW - M2C33 - F or is an equivalent type F automatic transmission fluid with a Ford registration number ( an 8 digit number beginning with " 2P " printed on the fluid container )

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If you haven't gotten the answer to this question by now, see this link...

contour.org

For the V6 of this model year, it's relatively easy. Best to ensure the engine cannot be started by removing the battery ground cable first. While draining the coolant via the rad petcock (don't ask me how these things get their names), remove the plastic cover over the front cylinder bank. The water pump should then be visble on the driver side of the block below the front head. It is driven by the front camshaft pulley and a belt that uses a small tensioner. You can release the belt tension by hand. The air filter housing cover and inlet that is attached to the air horn (on top of the engine) and anything connected to this assembly, must be removed. There are also a few small hoses, wiring connectors and other paraphenalia that will have to be disconnected. Make careful observations during dis-assembly and re-assembly.

Sorry that my memory is a bit fuzzy on this part, but I recall that some of the pump mounting bolts are what are sometimes referred to as through-bolts (since they pass through something you usually don't want to disturb; in this case the pump housing attached to the block). I was careful not to disturb this housing too much; there may have been one or two bolts holding it in place that did not need to be disturbed. If that's the case, leave them alone and you should not need any other gaskets other than the one for the pump assembly. Always check your new parts for clues to dis-assembly and to confirm you have the right part for the job. Make sure all of the old gasket material has been scraped/sanded of of the block before installing your new or rebuilt pump.

NOTE for other posters: Did you notice that the original poster didn't think to specify the engine he had? Try to provide as much useful info as possible when soliciting help.

I posted "for the v6 of this model.." I forgot about having to remove the battery. This note is posted rather than edited because I don't believe in having to register on a web-site to offer assistance.

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very easy its best to have the socket for an o2 sensor it has a slit down the side to allow for the wire to come out the side available at any auto parts store then you will find it in the front of the engine right behind the radiator it will have 4 wires coming out of it all you do is follow the wires to the wiring harness the detach the clip. then you use the socket to lossen it then unscrew the rest of the way out at this point wheather you bought one with the clip on it that attaches to the factory harness or if it has bare ends on the wires you may need to splice the wires to the original clip then screw it in place and your done 30 minutes tops

If you are talking about the 2.5 V6, then it's not as easy. According to several sources I've looked at while venturing to do this myself, there is debate among the experts, including Ford, Mercury, Autozone, Pep-Boys, Bosh website, Autoparts website and the toothless mechanic standing next to me in the Autozone checkout lane.

I think there are 4. I have found, and replaced 3 of the 4, and the fourth one, or AKA Bank-1 Upstream HO2, is between the firewall and the engine. The guys at the Mercury parts desk say that it's not really an O2, rather a catalytic sensor (Whiskey Tango Foxtrot).

Advice - Get Autozone to run a free diagnostic and tell you exactly which one it is, and replace only that one. I allowed my daughter to manage this thus I got the "Daddy, they're all bad" answer. Of course, being a good pop, I set my brain aside, believed what she said, spent $150 more than I had to, and found a different problem. You might be thinking about now, why would I listen to this person who got suckered by a teen-ager. Well, I'm just sharing something that will maybe help. I don't recommend the Hayne's manual either - it's pretty confusing. The Autozone freebie, so far, is better.

Semper Gumby

Oh - me again, the DA. The funky wrench the previous guy mentioned is a waste on the V6. Just use a (7/8) wrench. However, I may later learn that the funky wrench is the only way to get to the mystery O2. If so, I'll eat crow.

This is specific to the 1995 v6 model (and any other model years that may be identical to it as far as O2 sensors are concerned). The front bank sensor is relatively easy to do with a normal wrench. The rear is another matter as you can only access it from above. At the very least, you will have to remove the rear bank spark plug wires (better ID them with masking tape?) and the ignition coil (not hard). There is a metal track that provides support to a loom of wiring which traverses the engine from side to side, attached to the rear of the engine and close to the fire-wall. Only two small nuts hold that on, but you will have to use some force to remove the mounting tangs of this track off of the studs it is attached to. I was offered the loan of a modifed wrench for the sensor so I used it (the proper socket may have been a better option if you're willing to make the investment, but I don't hope to ever be able to make the comparison). As for the wrench, get a cheap 7/8 combination wrench and cut it down to no more than what you need to fit your hand, keeping in mind you are going to need the box-end of it. Grind over the cut off end to eliminate any sharp edges. Locate the sensor by hand (your eyes won't help here) and follow the wire up to the connector. Disconnect the sensor and hang on to the wire, placing the box end of your wrench over the wire. Follow it down onto the sensor and get the wrench over the sensor nut in such a way that you are going to be able to loosen it. If memory serves, you'll be pushing down to loosen. Once you have cracked it loose and maybe went through a couple more wrench-arcs, it should turn out by hand. Expect to spend about an hour replacing the back one. You might be tempted to do only the front if an engine fault code indicates the problem is the front one, but these are considered normal maintenance items, and you will be doing the rear at some point if you keep the car. .

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That's impossible, don't do it.

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Your post particularily interests me.

First some general info: Throttle plate cleaning and air induction service seems to be needed about every 18,000 miles, in my experience.

You can check your power steering fluid yourself and decide. Pull the dipstick out and wipe it on something white. If it's clear, you're okay, if it's discolored (brownish usually but translucent), then get it flushed.

I am really curious to know about the EVAP Flush. I have never heard of it. Maybe there is something new that I'm not familiar with, but would be surprised as we are usually close to the cutting edge. Plese get more info about this, as I am at a loss.

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To get to the tension pulley, you have to take off the passenger side front tire as well as two small inner black fender wells. Without doing this you won't be able to change the belt. Also what is needed to turn the tension pulley is a 3/8 inch bar breaker. I couldn't get a rachet in the square because of the fender. After that its nothing more than putting the belt on the pulleys.

You are correct on the above, however there is a diagram that shows you how to put the belt back on the pulley. In my 1999 Ford Contour, once you open the hood, in the far upper left hand corner on the shock cover, BEHOLD there's the diagram that shows you how the belt goes back on!

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you could have a solid miss or something out of balance like hamonic balancer or bent pulleys bad belt or vaccum leak check spark plugs and vaccum lines first

they will always miss because the engines cold idle is still keeping the engine at that speed until the engine becomes warm enough the moment you touch the pedal it brings the rpm off cold idle to warm which is a lot lower

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probably because there is a bad Ground-clean the socket where the bulb goes & coat w/vasoline & if there is metal on the socket housig ,clean that.That is IF U have 12 volts going 2 the socket-the tag light work with the running lights.

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If you are replacing the air bag, then this means it deployed. This also means that as soon as you connect a new one it may or may not deploy prematurly. This could be a very dangerous repair. Take it to a professional and have them install it.

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No , the " radiator " cap / pressure cap is the thread on cap on the engine

coolant reservoir

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If it is the serpentine belt then you will need to remove the passenger front tire and the plastic cowling in the engine side of the wheel well. using a 13mm box end wrench you will need to rotate the tensioner located just above the camshaft pully towards the back of the engine. THis is not an easy access but can be done. Wrap the belt according to the manual and turn the tensioner until the new belt can slip over the camshaft pulley. There is very little play so this requires some patience and strength. Good Luck

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possible vacume leak in the egr valve or bad valve itself.

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The current manuals neither give a schematic or give the exact location of the fuse panel, but I think the owners manual that comes with the car will. Jcpsme

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You will need to buy the following items:

CD Player

Wire Harness Adapter (Scosche is the brand, can be bought for less than $10 at WalMart next to the CD players)

Radio removal tool (2 U-Shaped wire tools to remove radio - about $4.99 at WalMart, again next to the CD players)

Removal Steps:

Removal of the factory radio

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable (Black)

2 Insert the radio removal tools into the 2 vertical (up and down) holes on each side of the stock radio and push until you feel them engage in the holes

3 Pull the tools to the sides ( <----- ------> ) and pull straight back at the same time. The radio should be far enough out of the dash for you to pull it out all the way by hand.

4 Unplug the antenna cable (Thick, round, black cable) and rest it aside.

5 Unplug the other two connectors and set aside.

Wiring Steps:

Wiring the wire harness adapter

1 Each wire on the scosche adapter corresponds to a wire on the CD player harness. Each are color coded and the colors should match up with the colors on the CD player harness. Each wire should also have writing on it.

2 Connect all of the wires to the corresponding wires and either soldier the connections or use crimp on connectors (If either method is not available, twist the wires together and tape with electrical tape and place a zip tie over the connection.) Always cover the connections with plenty of electrical tape and place a zip tie over the connection.

The wiring is now ready for install

Install Steps

1 Insert the radio cable into the back of the CD player.

2 Insert the CD player harness into the back of the CD player.

3 Plug the scosche adapter into the connectors leading into the car.

4 Insert the CD player into the radio slot while being careful of the wiring.

5 Reconnect the negative battery cable (black)

6 Turn on the ignition and test all functions of the radio.

For any other questions, refer to www.contour.org...click on "Forums"