Under the dash between the steering column, and left kick panel. ---- Its definitely not under the dash, i have same car, its under the hood, to the right on the bottom, a little black box. ---- Both are right!
One location is in a 'power distribution' box next to the battery under the hood.
The other is up under the dash on the drivers side. The box is under the steering column but it is hard to find because its folded up. Opening / accessing the fuse box
* Get down on the floor with the car off but the key in the ignition - you should hear the dinging - the noise maker is mounted to the bottom of the fuse box. As you look up put your hand on the right side of the box and there is a black switch/ button you have to push to release the box. Or...
* There's a release button on the side of the panel to drop it down for easier access. Pull knob down toward floor while pulling down on box. (Caution wear gloves i got cut bad.) Or another way to say it...
* Under the dash near the steering column. You will see a box with wires running in and out of it, this is the fuse panel. There is a pull tab next to it, pull it and the fuse panel will drop down. Push the panel back up when done, it will click into place. And one more way to describe it...
* The fuse box is located under the steering wheel. There is a black button you have to push towards the right side of the car that opens it up. It looks like it's a part of the car, it blends in. When you are finished with it just push it up and it will click into place.
The Owners Manuals have detailed illustrations and information regarding the two fuse box / panels, and the various vehicle systems each fuse protects. See "Related Questions" below for links to free, online sources of Owners Manuals. drivers side under hood and also under drivers side dash by feet puch up switch and it pops down
There are 3 screws holding the headlight assembly/lens in place:
Remove those 3 and the whole lens comes out for easy bulb replacement.
By the way, this is detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for morehead light removel on a 98 contourthere is three screws on each headlight housing open the hood and remove the screws theres two on top and one hiding behind the rad support after removing the screws grab the sides of the lights and pull out it should be a little tuff but it will pull out its preety much the same to put it back in
Pop the hood turn on the lights hit the high beams locate the wire (connector) at the back of the headlamp assembly a quarter turn of the "boot" to the left should release it pull it out carefully twist out the bulb take the bulb with you to a parts store buy bulb reverse procedure!
I would bet that it has some release clips at the back of the headlamp assembly. That's right the lenses are part of the assembly. A lot have a long flat plastic retaining clip that slides in from the top to lock a protruding pin into the sheet metal holder. I don't have one to look at to give you a definite answer about removing the assembly but my reply is mainly to let you know that if you are looking to replace them because they have clouded up then you should look for someone to polish and coat them instead. There are a few businesses popping up that do that now. I saw one locally called Clean & Clear or something like that. Try a search or check with some of your local used car dealers, those guys seem to do a lot of them for dealers.
You can also polish them yourself with a liquid compound like Blue Magic (for one) plexiglass and plastic polish that Pep Boys or other parts stores sell. Use an orbital polisher or low speed angle polisher designed for polishing automotive paint. It only takes about 5 min. each. The only problem is that it (obviously) only helps the cloudiness on the outside and doesn't last very long, maybe 2-4 months. The pros that do that for a living actually use something to coat it that keeps them clear.
go to the blown bulb open the hood directly behind the bulb is a sort of cap with wires coming out of it give that a quarter to half turn and the light should pop out check the bulb for any retainer clips if none simply pull out the old bulb and put in the new one.(do not touch any glass surfaces on the new bulb the oil on your hands will cause the new bulb to develop a hot spot and burn out prematurely
The easiest way is to remove the entire headlight assembly. There are two screws on top, easy to see, and one down behind holding a long piece of metal attached to the head light. Remove the headlight and replace the bulbs. Install is reverse.
While the manufacturer has not recommended a mileage interval for changing the timing belt on a 1998 Ford Contour, experienced technicians recommend changing the belt at 60,000 miles, according to Autodata's timing belt book. The engine is an interference engine, which means that should the timing belt stretch past its useful life or break, the valves will most likely contact the pistons, causing extreme engine damage. This procedure uses special tools that are available at the dealership.
Disconnect the battery ground cable, using a wrench. Raise the front of the Contour with the floor jack, then support it with jack stands. Remove the right-front wheel, using the lug wrench. Remove the lower splash guard for the engine and the right, inner fender lower splash guard.
Mark the direction of rotation on the accessory belt, using chalk or correction fluid to draw an arrow. Loosen the accessory belt tensioner with a wrench, then remove the accessory drive belt. Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley and the accessory drive belt tensioner, using the appropriate size sockets.
Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. Number the spark plug wires so you know where they go when you replace them. Pull the spark plug wires of the plugs, then remove the spark plugs. Carefully slide the screwdriver into the number 1 piston hole until it contacts the piston. Turn the crankshaft until you feel the piston (via the screwdriver) come all the way to the top of the piston bore. At the same time, watch the timing marks on the crankshaft. The engine is on top dead center when the mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the mark on the 5 o'clock position on the block, next to the crankshaft pulley. If the marks line up, but the piston is not all the way to the top of the bore, turn the crankshaft once more and everything will line up.
Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and the crankshaft pulley, using the appropriate sockets. Make sure the crankshaft does not turn while you are removing the pulley. If it does, repeat Step 3. Remove the lower timing belt cover.
Loosen the bolts on the left and right engine mounts. Do not remove the bolts--they need only to be loosened enough so that the engine can move a little bit. Unbolt the radiator overflow tank, but do not disconnect the hoses. Lay the overflow tank out of the way. Disconnect the cruise control cable with the appropriate socket or wrench. The cruise control cable is located on the throttle.
Support the engine by placing the 2-by-4-inch board on the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the engine and jack it up until it contacts the bottom of the engine. Remove the front engine mount, using the appropriate socket.
Remove the power steering pipe bracket, the upper timing belt cover and the front engine mount bracket, using the appropriate sockets. Disconnect the accelerator cable and the cruise control cable from the valve cover. Remove the valve cover.
Slide the camshaft alignment tool into the slots at the rear of the camshafts. Loosen the tensioner bolt, but do not remove it. Turn the tensioner clockwise with the appropriate-size Allen wrench, releasing tension on the belt. Unscrew the tensioner retaining bolt four turns. Unhook the tensioner bracket from the metal clip behind the tensioner.
Remove the plug from the center of the exhaust side camshaft (the right camshaft when you are looking down at the engine) by unscrewing it. Using the appropriate wrench, hold the camshaft by putting the wrench on the hexagon-shaped end of the camshaft where you removed the plug. Loosen the retaining bolts on both camshaft sprockets. Remove the timing belt. Check the valve on the number 4 cylinder. The camshaft lobe should be facing inward.
Install the crankshaft pulley, making sure the notch and the pointer are lined up. Remove the plug from the engine block, next to the motor mount bracket. Install the crankshaft timing pin. Adjust the crankshaft until it rests against the timing pin. Make sure all the timing marks stay lined up. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
Install the new timing belt around the crankshaft sprocket, working your way counterclockwise, keeping the timing belt tight on the side opposite the tensioner. The timing belt route goes on the inside of the two idler pulleys, then around the outside of the camshafts and the inside of the tensioner. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still pushed up against the timing pin. Hook the tensioner bracket on the metal clip.
Turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the appropriate-size Allen wrench, until the pointer is lined up with the mark located halfway between the 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock position. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 18.5 ft-lbs. of torque, then remove the Allen wrench.
Hold the camshaft by putting a wrench on the hexagon part of the shaft. Tighten the intake sprocket retaining bolt to 50 ft-lbs. of torque. Tighten the exhaust sprocket retaining bolt to 44 ft-lbs. of torque. Remove the crankshaft timing pin and the camshaft alignment tools.
Hold the exhaust camshaft by placing a wrench on the hexagon part of the camshaft. Torque the exhaust sprocket retaining bolt to 89 ft-lbs. of torque. Turn the crankshaft almost two turns (slowly). Reinstall the crankshaft timing pin. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until it touches the timing pin. Reinstall the camshaft tool in the camshaft slots to make sure it slides in smoothly. If it doesn't, remove the belt and repeat the procedure.
Remove the camshaft tool and the crankshaft timing pin. Install a new plug into the exhaust camshaft sprocket and torque the plug to 27 ft-lbs. of torque. Install the plug into the crankshaft timing pin hole and tighten it to 18.5 ft-lbs. of torque. Install the rest of the parts in reverse order of removal. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 85 ft-lbs. of torque.
you either rip it off or get a sluge hammer and break it off
You'd have a hard time getting a hammer where you could get any force on a Ford 4x4, driver-side axle bumper, and you don't want to remove the coil spring and shock to do it, so, I took s large crescent wrench, gripped the old bumper and slowly and painfully turned it out. On mine the bumper is threaded into the frame, not on a separate nut. Be prepared to bark your knuckles and swear softly if there are children or wives present.
There are 3 things that get in the way of the plugs -
The rest of it is pretty logical in terms of removing the plug, setting up its replacement (grease, anti-seize, etc) and putting the new one in.
It was a whole lot easier than my 98 Sable 24v V6, and the 2001 Windstar. 30 minutes, a bit longer if you're doing the wires while you're at it.
Opinion: I prefer the Motorcraft brand plugs - enough people who know more than me continue to encourage the manufacturer's brand to be convincing.Answerthe spark plug wires are very easy to replace. They are right on top of the engine and go down into holes right on the top of the valve cover. With the engine not running, unplug each wire from both ends, and replace each one at a time. I recommend you do this one at a time to prevent crossing the wires up. Each terminal on the coil assembly is matched to a particular cylinder, so you have to get the right coil terminal attached to the right spark plug. You will also notice that the replacement wires are different lengths, so as you remove each wire, install the same length replacement wire. Answeron a 2.5 v6 you will have to remove the intake manifold, to do this remove the plastic cover by the oil fill (water pump cover), then the intake bolts on top, the hoses on the intake (2 on top one on pip sensor, one to PVC valve) then remove the throtle cable bracket along with the intake hoses (from air filter) then remove the 2 bolts witch hold the egr vavle to the intake manifold. unplug the 3 sensors (egr, tps and pip) lift up on the manifold, you will need to pull it towards the passanger side to get it out from under the egr valve. you will now see your plugs and wires 3 in front 3 in back. inspect your intake gasket before reinstalling your manifold. replace if needed. DO NOT USE RTV silicon gasket. -nius AnswerIf you have the FOUR CYLINDER 2.0l engine, the plugs are under a black plastic cover that is about 24" long right on top of the engine. You can see the spark plug wires that come out of the distributor located on the right side of the engine ( as you face it ), and they go under this cover. 8-10 screws must be removed to take the cover off, as well as a grommet for a sensor on the left side that can be pushed back up the wire harness once it is popped off the black cover.
The plugs are under some long connectors that also seal the pocket that the plug is located in. Be careful because oil and debris collect around the plugs and can drop into the combustion chamber when the plug is removed. It took several minutes to burn off all the oil that got into the combustion chambers the last time I changed plugs on my Mystique.
Also note that there are TWO DIFFERENT PART NUMBERS on the original plugs, but the Motorcraft specification now lists only one plug for use in all cylinders.Answeris it a v6? because if it is good luck,if its an ecotech than remove the top of the valve cover and they are under the "DI"direct ignition assy.if its a v6 it sure is possible but u will have to remove the necessary components to get at them and the back 3 are the worst. AnswerCheck out the "free" tech manual on your 99 contour. Here's the link that shows you how to do it. This URL should be a all on one line when you put it in the browser. It split apart when I copied it here due to the width limit on this response input form. - Good Luck!
1.- Go to http://www.autozone.com/
2.- Create an account (If you don't have an account)
3.- Log with you user.
4.- Add a 96-99 contour as a preferred vehicle.
5.- Paste the following link:
1. Put the front of the car on jackstands and dis-connect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove passenger side wheel and lower splash guards. Using low profile 3/8" socket wrench or breaker bar, remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley.
3. Dis-connect the passenger side tie rod from the knuckle.
4. remove the driver side wheel.
5. Get 3 or 4 feet of extensions for your 3/8 socket wrench and feed them through the driver side wheel well to the upper bolt of the alternator. Yo may need to secure the socket & extensions on the bolt from up top then get back down to the driver wheel well, but it's worth the few seconds. Remove the upper bolt.
6. From below the car, loosen the lower bolt, but do not remove.
7. There is a small bracket on the alternator between mounting bolts. Remove the 10mm bolt that secures the bracket to the block.
8. From above, pry the upper tab from the mounting bracket.
9. Below the car, hold the alternator while removing the lower bolt.
10. Dis-connect the electrical to the Alternator.
11. Maneuver the alternator out through the passenger side wheel well. Takes a little thinking, but it'll come out.
12. Transfer the small bracket to the new alternator.
13. Feed the alternator in through the passenger side and make electrical connections.
14. Secure the lower alternator tab and hand tighten the lower bolt.
15. Pivot the alternator up. The upper tab may not easily fit into place. Tighten the 10mm bolt in the center bracket to the block. This will press the upper tab into place.
16. Install the upper bolt and hand tighten. Fully tighten the lower bolt now.
17. Use extensions from the driver wheel well to tighten the upper bolt.
Remainder of this project is simple re-assembly. An experienced shade tree mechanic can do this alternator R&R in under an hour after his tools are set out.Answer- 4 cylinder engine
If you have one of the 4 cylinder models like I do, its a major PITA. You can get the Haynes manual for the car and that helps somewhat. You really just have to remove the air intake assembly (big black thing on top of engine) to get at the alternator from the top and remove the wires going to it, then you have to drain the oil and remove the oil filter to get at the drivebelt from the side (through the wheel well) and loosen it to the point you can get the alternator out. Hope this helps, otherwise get a Haynes repair manual.
Owner of a 98 bi-fuel countour that runs like a typical ford. Half the time it will only run on unleaded...not very enviro friendly. Ford isn't much of a help...local dealer isn't authorized and the nearest authorized dealer is 2 1/2 hours away. They seem to know what they are doing and honor the warrenty...but the bi-fuel systems seem to have a lot of issues...more headaches then it is worth even if Natural Gas is cheaper than unleaded.
The 1996 Ford Contour owners manual shows : Use only power steering fluid that meets Ford specification ESW - M2C33 - F or is an equivalent type F automatic transmission fluid with a Ford registration number ( an 8 digit number beginning with " 2P " printed on the fluid container )
If you haven't gotten the answer to this question by now, see this link...
For the V6 of this model year, it's relatively easy. Best to ensure the engine cannot be started by removing the battery ground cable first. While draining the coolant via the rad petcock (don't ask me how these things get their names), remove the plastic cover over the front cylinder bank. The water pump should then be visble on the driver side of the block below the front head. It is driven by the front camshaft pulley and a belt that uses a small tensioner. You can release the belt tension by hand. The air filter housing cover and inlet that is attached to the air horn (on top of the engine) and anything connected to this assembly, must be removed. There are also a few small hoses, wiring connectors and other paraphenalia that will have to be disconnected. Make careful observations during dis-assembly and re-assembly.
Sorry that my memory is a bit fuzzy on this part, but I recall that some of the pump mounting bolts are what are sometimes referred to as through-bolts (since they pass through something you usually don't want to disturb; in this case the pump housing attached to the block). I was careful not to disturb this housing too much; there may have been one or two bolts holding it in place that did not need to be disturbed. If that's the case, leave them alone and you should not need any other gaskets other than the one for the pump assembly. Always check your new parts for clues to dis-assembly and to confirm you have the right part for the job. Make sure all of the old gasket material has been scraped/sanded of of the block before installing your new or rebuilt pump.
NOTE for other posters: Did you notice that the original poster didn't think to specify the engine he had? Try to provide as much useful info as possible when soliciting help.
I posted "for the v6 of this model.." I forgot about having to remove the battery. This note is posted rather than edited because I don't believe in having to register on a web-site to offer assistance.
very easy its best to have the socket for an o2 sensor it has a slit down the side to allow for the wire to come out the side available at any auto parts store then you will find it in the front of the engine right behind the radiator it will have 4 wires coming out of it all you do is follow the wires to the wiring harness the detach the clip. then you use the socket to lossen it then unscrew the rest of the way out at this point wheather you bought one with the clip on it that attaches to the factory harness or if it has bare ends on the wires you may need to splice the wires to the original clip then screw it in place and your done 30 minutes tops
If you are talking about the 2.5 V6, then it's not as easy. According to several sources I've looked at while venturing to do this myself, there is debate among the experts, including Ford, Mercury, Autozone, Pep-Boys, Bosh website, Autoparts website and the toothless mechanic standing next to me in the Autozone checkout lane.
I think there are 4. I have found, and replaced 3 of the 4, and the fourth one, or AKA Bank-1 Upstream HO2, is between the firewall and the engine. The guys at the Mercury parts desk say that it's not really an O2, rather a catalytic sensor (Whiskey Tango Foxtrot).
Advice - Get Autozone to run a free diagnostic and tell you exactly which one it is, and replace only that one. I allowed my daughter to manage this thus I got the "Daddy, they're all bad" answer. Of course, being a good pop, I set my brain aside, believed what she said, spent $150 more than I had to, and found a different problem. You might be thinking about now, why would I listen to this person who got suckered by a teen-ager. Well, I'm just sharing something that will maybe help. I don't recommend the Hayne's manual either - it's pretty confusing. The Autozone freebie, so far, is better.
Oh - me again, the DA. The funky wrench the previous guy mentioned is a waste on the V6. Just use a (7/8) wrench. However, I may later learn that the funky wrench is the only way to get to the mystery O2. If so, I'll eat crow.
This is specific to the 1995 v6 model (and any other model years that may be identical to it as far as O2 sensors are concerned). The front bank sensor is relatively easy to do with a normal wrench. The rear is another matter as you can only access it from above. At the very least, you will have to remove the rear bank spark plug wires (better ID them with masking tape?) and the ignition coil (not hard). There is a metal track that provides support to a loom of wiring which traverses the engine from side to side, attached to the rear of the engine and close to the fire-wall. Only two small nuts hold that on, but you will have to use some force to remove the mounting tangs of this track off of the studs it is attached to. I was offered the loan of a modifed wrench for the sensor so I used it (the proper socket may have been a better option if you're willing to make the investment, but I don't hope to ever be able to make the comparison). As for the wrench, get a cheap 7/8 combination wrench and cut it down to no more than what you need to fit your hand, keeping in mind you are going to need the box-end of it. Grind over the cut off end to eliminate any sharp edges. Locate the sensor by hand (your eyes won't help here) and follow the wire up to the connector. Disconnect the sensor and hang on to the wire, placing the box end of your wrench over the wire. Follow it down onto the sensor and get the wrench over the sensor nut in such a way that you are going to be able to loosen it. If memory serves, you'll be pushing down to loosen. Once you have cracked it loose and maybe went through a couple more wrench-arcs, it should turn out by hand. Expect to spend about an hour replacing the back one. You might be tempted to do only the front if an engine fault code indicates the problem is the front one, but these are considered normal maintenance items, and you will be doing the rear at some point if you keep the car. .
That's impossible, don't do it.
Your post particularily interests me.
First some general info: Throttle plate cleaning and air induction service seems to be needed about every 18,000 miles, in my experience.
You can check your power steering fluid yourself and decide. Pull the dipstick out and wipe it on something white. If it's clear, you're okay, if it's discolored (brownish usually but translucent), then get it flushed.
I am really curious to know about the EVAP Flush. I have never heard of it. Maybe there is something new that I'm not familiar with, but would be surprised as we are usually close to the cutting edge. Plese get more info about this, as I am at a loss.
To get to the tension pulley, you have to take off the passenger side front tire as well as two small inner black fender wells. Without doing this you won't be able to change the belt. Also what is needed to turn the tension pulley is a 3/8 inch bar breaker. I couldn't get a rachet in the square because of the fender. After that its nothing more than putting the belt on the pulleys.
You are correct on the above, however there is a diagram that shows you how to put the belt back on the pulley. In my 1999 Ford Contour, once you open the hood, in the far upper left hand corner on the shock cover, BEHOLD there's the diagram that shows you how the belt goes back on!
you could have a solid miss or something out of balance like hamonic balancer or bent pulleys bad belt or vaccum leak check spark plugs and vaccum lines first
they will always miss because the engines cold idle is still keeping the engine at that speed until the engine becomes warm enough the moment you touch the pedal it brings the rpm off cold idle to warm which is a lot lower
probably because there is a bad Ground-clean the socket where the bulb goes & coat w/vasoline & if there is metal on the socket housig ,clean that.That is IF U have 12 volts going 2 the socket-the tag light work with the running lights.
If you are replacing the air bag, then this means it deployed. This also means that as soon as you connect a new one it may or may not deploy prematurly. This could be a very dangerous repair. Take it to a professional and have them install it.
No , the " radiator " cap / pressure cap is the thread on cap on the engine
In my 1998 Contour, the fuel shutoff/inertia switch is just to the left of the driver's left foot - if they are sitting in the car.
I first looked in the trunk - common location in many Ford products, and didn't find it. I resorted to reading the Owners Manual - found it right where the pictures indicated!
See "Related Questions" below for more the switch is located on the same panel as the hood opener near the drivers left foot. it looks like a red pushbutton.
Try either left side of trunk area or the front kick panels
If it is the serpentine belt then you will need to remove the passenger front tire and the plastic cowling in the engine side of the wheel well. using a 13mm box end wrench you will need to rotate the tensioner located just above the camshaft pully towards the back of the engine. THis is not an easy access but can be done. Wrap the belt according to the manual and turn the tensioner until the new belt can slip over the camshaft pulley. There is very little play so this requires some patience and strength. Good Luck
Jacklug-wrenchwrenches1"X2" boardC-clampNew Brake PadsAnswerIts a 7mm Allen wrench to remove the two caliper pins. AnswerIf you are also doing the rears (disc only) you will need the special ford caliper tool, turns and pushes the plunger at the same time. if you put a C clamp on the rears you will destroy the caliper, and they arent cheap ;)
possible vacume leak in the egr valve or bad valve itself.
The current manuals neither give a schematic or give the exact location of the fuse panel, but I think the owners manual that comes with the car will. Jcpsme
You will need to buy the following items:
Wire Harness Adapter (Scosche is the brand, can be bought for less than $10 at WalMart next to the CD players)
Radio removal tool (2 U-Shaped wire tools to remove radio - about $4.99 at WalMart, again next to the CD players)
Removal of the factory radio
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable (Black)
2 Insert the radio removal tools into the 2 vertical (up and down) holes on each side of the stock radio and push until you feel them engage in the holes
3 Pull the tools to the sides ( <----- ------> ) and pull straight back at the same time. The radio should be far enough out of the dash for you to pull it out all the way by hand.
4 Unplug the antenna cable (Thick, round, black cable) and rest it aside.
5 Unplug the other two connectors and set aside.
Wiring the wire harness adapter
1 Each wire on the scosche adapter corresponds to a wire on the CD player harness. Each are color coded and the colors should match up with the colors on the CD player harness. Each wire should also have writing on it.
2 Connect all of the wires to the corresponding wires and either soldier the connections or use crimp on connectors (If either method is not available, twist the wires together and tape with electrical tape and place a zip tie over the connection.) Always cover the connections with plenty of electrical tape and place a zip tie over the connection.
The wiring is now ready for install
1 Insert the radio cable into the back of the CD player.
2 Insert the CD player harness into the back of the CD player.
3 Plug the scosche adapter into the connectors leading into the car.
4 Insert the CD player into the radio slot while being careful of the wiring.
5 Reconnect the negative battery cable (black)
6 Turn on the ignition and test all functions of the radio.
For any other questions, refer to www.contour.org...click on "Forums"
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