30 days. If your plates expire in Jun 2012, then on Aug 1st you are subject to penalty.

Your battery is weak, or your your alternator is not charging battery.

There could be a sensor wire that is bad or going bad

The starter on a 98 Ford Contour SE is changed by disconnecting the battery, jacking the vehicle up, and removing the starter shield. The retaining bolts and bracket can then be removed, the wires disconnected, and the starter removed.

Vacuum leak. Replace all vacuum hoses under the hood. Replace one at a time as to not get confused.

Vacuum leak. Replace all vacuum hoses under the hood. Replace one at a time as to not get confused.

I have a 1996 ford fiesta lx which had its fuel filter cleaned about a month ago...it was getting sluggish, low revs and the engine would cut out and come back on.

Didn't have any problems after it was cleaned - felt much smoother to drive, better revs and no cutting out! Until today...my drives to work are only short (5 mins) so the engine always stays fairly cool. Was driving around a lot today, only local driving at 30mph. Was probably driving round for about 2 hours or maybe more and I noticed the driving started to feel a bit judderish and sluggish. i also noted the engine was getting warmer as it came off the cool mark and then again..the engine cuts out 3 times on my drive home but i had to stop this time to restart the car. I only noticed it had cut as the dashboard lights came on. The engine also sounded a bit strained...it was really working to get up into 2nd gear which I thought was weird. Any ideas?!?!

they will be much appreciated!!!!

NOT on the drivers side. Unless it's a Right Hand Drive vehicle.

All Ford V8's are as follows: AS SITTING IN THE CAR, the # one cyl is right front.

If I am correct it should be behind the drivers side or passenger side wheel base behind the finders in the front covered by the plastic guards behind the front tires.

Goto autozone .com and look in repair info

Luckily, all spark plugs are available without removing the intake manifold. Tools you will need are:

ratchet set6"-9" extention 3/8" drive (6" with an added 3" drive will work just as good)sparkplug socket

First start out by removing the black plastic cover over the front intake manifold, there are three cap screws that you must remove using your ratchet set. This will expose three of the six spark plugs and respective wires.

Next, follow the spark plug wires back to where they attach to the coilpack, note the other three spark plug locations just under and forward of this coilpack, there are your other three spark plugs.

It should be pretty much self explanitory from here on out, but just remember it is easiest to do one wire and plug at a time, so as to match up the wire with the correct size and avoid dealing with the possibility of matching up the coilpack with the wrong spark plug, then your car will definitely not want to run.

Hope this helps, let me know if you need more help.

Seneca Johns

the factory defalt setting cannot be chandged and will always work, even though you add an additional code of you preference. here are the steps. # Enter the permanent factory remote keyless (RKE) keypad code # Press the 1/2 button within 5 seconds to activate the programming mode # Holding the 1/2 button for more than 2 seconds after activation erases the stored personal code # Within 5 seconds, enter the new 5-digit RKE keypad code. The door locks lock and unlock to confirm the new code is programmed. Entering any new personal code automatically erases the old personal code

no

@150K, there is a Strong chance that you have low oil pressure. As such, there is a electronic oil pressure sending unit on the lower front right side of the block. Unplug it for a few seconds. If your check engine light goes away, theres your problem. I personally would hook up a $17 manual oil pressure guage just to be safe. As for the cruise controll problem, this is a common problem. just outside of the transmission, there is an electrical attachment to a vehicle speed sensor. Check both the wires leading into it and the connctions at the sensor itself. Replace at your descretion. As for the o2 sensor, it is possible, but not likely. o2 sensors will rarely set of a trouble code on an EFI motor unless you have a cylinder not firing.

According to the 1998 Ford Contour Owner Guide :

Both the 2.0 liter four cylinder engine and the 2.5 liter V6 engine take

( 5W-30 )

5 and a quarter inch

The 1998 Ford Contour owners manual shows ( 5.8 quarts ) with filter change for the 2.5 L - V6 engine

How do you install a radiator in a 1998 ford contour?"

find it then remove it from its socket and then put anew one in its place.

you either rip it off or get a sluge hammer and break it off

You'd have a hard time getting a hammer where you could get any force on a Ford 4x4, driver-side axle bumper, and you don't want to remove the coil spring and shock to do it, so, I took s large crescent wrench, gripped the old bumper and slowly and painfully turned it out. On mine the bumper is threaded into the frame, not on a separate nut. Be prepared to bark your knuckles and swear softly if there are children or wives present.

Check your fuel filter.

it would be easier to answer if one knew what was meant

Defective resistor pack.

(For Zetec 2.0L) Set parking brake, jack up car on front driver side. Remove Drivers side front wheel. Crawl under car by firewall. Look up on transmission (mid vehicle), you should see the bottom of the VSS as it screws into the top of the transmission - loosen VSS (turn 1/4 turn). Open hood, Disconnect neg cable from battery (safety first) remove 3 long bolts holding down air intake over throttlebody. Unclip air filter top cover. Disconnect MAF connector. Lift off entire top air assembly, disconnect IAT sensor from under intake tube by MAF and put whole assembly away. You need to remove the rest of the Airbox, close to the firewall is a rubber band O ring holding down airbox, unhook. Then Pull up on airbox. You need to pull hard, it is held on by pins that push through rubber donuts on each side of the box. When it comes off it'll make a huge pop and you'll swear you've broken something - you likely haven't. (It's super easy to put back, just push down - hard to remove though). With airbox off, you will see large wire harness, follow it back - as it reaches under the brake booster and throttlebody, you will see a small offshoot with a connector - that is the VSS connector. Even though it's fairly easy to see it's a PITA to unhook. One-handed shennanigans, and some cursing required. Some small hands or really long needle nose pliers would help. Be careful, don't mess up the harness/connector side. When it's disconencted, go back under car and unscrew VSS and pull up. Then install new VSS. Reconnect nrew VSS to harness connector - hard again but not as bad as disconnecting. Then put everthing back together in reverse. Then wash bloody knuckles.