It means that person was about to say something and stopped or it means that person was interupted. I am 5 and in 5th grade,I skipped a few grades

Change the oil, change the oil and fuel filters, grease it, ensure the air filter is serviceable, make sure the brakes are in spec and the wheel seals are intact, ensure the lights work, ensure the tires are legal and inflated.

The most widely used method of locating a brake fluid leak is the direct approach: Look for the wet spots. Usually, when brake fluid is leaking, the brake fluid level being low is the second thing to be noticed; the first is that spot on the carpet, on the wheel, on the driveway, on the tire, on the road. When that is not what has prompted the question of leakage, a spraying of the fluid is to be suspected. This can occur each time the pedal is applied in slowing the car should a brake hose or line anywhere in the system have a cut or hole in it; and, the spray can be dispersed by the airstream flowing across the undercarriage of the vehicle while it is in motion, giving the appearance of 'disappearing fluid'. At a standstill, however, this leak also can be detected: Just look for the drip... Should a wheel cylinder(on drum brakes) be leaking, the fluid will soak the brake shoes and the inside of the drum; and, once the drum is removed for inspection(because the brakes aren't working properly), the evidence is clear: Everything's wet. Should a master cylinder seal be leaking, the carpet inside the cab will be wet(manual brakes) or the area between the booster and master cylinder will show the evidence of leaksge. If the paint on the booster is blistered below this contact area, it is likely due to brake fluid--- which blisters paint when spilled upon it. When a spray is particularly elusive to the eye, the ear sometimes proves faithful in finding the offender. With an assistant's foot pushing the pedal, the jet-stream may be picked-up by careful listening as it bounces off of plastic or metal surfaces. Everything is, after all, not always a one-person job. Good detective work often takes more than one set of eyes, ears, and so forth; and, this is an instance in which teamwork is indispensible--- even to the pros.

To add more brake fluid, the containder is located under the air filter. You have to take off the air filter to get under enough to get to it.

I have a 2003 New Beetle convertible I've been fighting with this morning. When I removed the plenum, and kept looking, I did finally find the brake reservoir (yellow cap, under some stuff and way in back). It's hard to get to, but I was able to get the cap off. However, I had to go back to the auto parts store to get a funnel with a long neck because that's the only way to get the fluid in without taking a bunch of hoses off. It can be done. Next step is getting the cap back on because of the grooves and the tightness of its location. Not fun.

Not being a chemist, I'm not sure how the seals will react. I've heard stories about seal swelling problems when adding a wrong fluids to a system. I had tried an experiment, setting seals into different fluids to monitor swelling over a period of a week with no conclusive results. Since the fluids are different, you don't know how the properties aside from swelling will affect the power steering. Such as how well it compresses, viscosity and so on. I would flush the system this week if it was mine. pukenstein@aol.com

When brand new, its clear, and slightly golden like vegetable oil. When used, its darker like olive oil- kinda yellow....BB New, CLEAN brake fluid is clear. If it's black, the seals are wearing/worn in your master cylinder or wheel cyliner/caliper Clear when new, turns brown with age.

I would replace that unfortunate mixture with fresh power steering fluid using the recommended fluid for the type of vehichle. Some use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) or Mineral Type fluid or most commomly regular Power Steering Fluid. Now...to change the old fluid. Find the return line to the reservoir. This line will be near the top of the the reservoir and under much less pressure than the feed/suction line. With the engine OFF...disconnect the return line from the reservoir. Have a helper hold this hose into a bucket. Start the engine...do not rev it! SLOWLY turn the steering wheel all of the way to right..then all the way to the left..then return it to the center position. Turn off the engine. This will empty the system. NEXT..put the return hose back on and secure it. Fill the reservoir with new fluid and replace the cap. Start the engine and repeat the wheel turning step once again. Stop the engine and check the fluid level. Fill the reservoir to the specified level. PRESTO!!! You should be in good shape as far as the power steering fluid. . John In Montana

If I understand your question right you are saying you have air in your brake lines and you need to 'Bleed' them. As you know Brakes are just as important as the engine and the car itself.
If you do not do them as prescribed the results can be catastrophic when you really need the brakes. There is to much liability involved if I forget to include a step, so I recomend you visit the free site I post below this paragraph. It is very helpful and they go in to good detail. I followed it to a 'T' and then i had a recognized brake and muffler outlet check them. They were pleased I did this and the brakes passed with flying colors. www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm

No it will kill u use salt water rinse or even a shot of alcohol works at times

Master cylinder reservoir should be under the hood at the driver's side firewall

it don't work?

No such thing... haha someone's probally playing with you... it's like a flux capacitor or muffler bearing it's something that doesn't exist

yes

Dot 4

It uses DOT3.

Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak at the power brake booster Check the lines to booster and the check valve at the booster Could be a defective brake booster also

Disc in front, drums in back.

If you have alot of fine sand in your water as we do, it could be that as the water heats it cooks the sand onto the heating coil and therefore narrows the space the hot water travels through. It does not affect the cold at all only the hot. If this is the case you need a new heating coil for your furnace. The only thing we've been told helps slow this down is to install a filter for your water as it enters the house. We have done this and it does remove alot of the sand but evidently not all! Good Luck!

***This just recently happened to my hot water but it started in tub one day and then the next day was sinks and it turns out that it was from the pipes we had. He had galvanized (not sure on spelling) and they tend to rust a lot and narrow the opening of pipes and then chunks of the rust come loose and block the already very narrow pipes. Then you have no water pressure because it cant get through... you can sometimes see if this is the problem by taking a hammer and tapping on the hot water pipes all the way from the hot water tank to the faucets while the hot water is running. If you get brown water or the pressure gets better or worse than that's most likely the problem.

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No

Brake fluid will make the surface of the tire slick, resulting in loss of traction. If left un attended for a long period of time, the brake fluid will "dry rot" the rubber and cause separation.

Sounds like a bad booster, but you can test. Just get a nice hard pedal & hold it. If it goes down, that's a typical sign of failure. You need to take it somewhere that does brakes but not the dealer-they are expensive. Boosters are not that much (70.00 or thereabouts) plus maybe 40.00 to bleed front & back since there is undoubtedly air in there.