DOT 3 brake fluid - pretty much a universally specified, and readily available brake fluid.

NOTE: The Owners Manual contains illustrated procedures for checking/filling brake fluid - and the specified fluids for the vehicle.

See "Related Questions" below for a free sources of online Owners Manuals D.O.T. #3

Check the master cylinder to see if it's low.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/recalls/bl-recalls-096a.htm

It's a little awkward as it is partially obstructed by the windshield wiper trim piece.


Adding fluid - I usually use a small bathroom dixie cup if you fill it halfway it will fit under there

and you can pour it in



According to the Owners Manual, and the "Related Question" below...

DOT 3

The ABS (anti-lock brake system) light comes on because the computer has detected a problem and set a code. The code will stay in the computer even if the light goes out. You need to have the system Scanned for codes. Once the cause of the code has been repaired the light can be shut off by clearing the code.

Most auto repair shops will have Scanners and all the equipment to Diagnose and repair the problem. And, Most auto parts stores can plug in a diagnostic scanning device into your vehicle to read the trouble codes at no cost if you purchase the parts necessary to repair the vehicle from them. The trouble codes can tell you THE AREA where the problem is with your ABS system. So it's wise to have a Tech check that circuit to isolate what the problem actually is.

In order to reset this light you need to have access to a Scan tool that does more than just read the codes. Other diagnostic equipment may be needed as well.

You have a problem with the ABS. As long as the light is on the ABS is not working. The light will remain on until the problem is fixed.

ABS = Anti-Lock Brake System

If you have this light come on while not braking, it most likely means there is a problem with the electronic controls in your brakes. If it comes on while you are braking, it means the Anti-Lock has kicked in. It should only do that however, if you are braking really hard. Addendum: It is very important to have the above procedure done to diagnose the cause. It might be minor but it could be as important as a wheel bearing, and a cracked hub, which if damaged could cause the wheel to become loose and you could lose control. I've added this addendum because I was told by a mechanic not to worry about the ABS light, that it was a minor problem. Only to find out later that in many vehicles the ABS sensor is attached to the wheel hub and a malfunctioning bearing can cause the sensor to slip., causing it to turn on.

Brake pad/lining dust can often be the cause of brake squealing when brakes are applied. This is normally remedied by blowing dust out with compressed air.

If your rotors are warped or uneven, this will make a squealing sound. You may need to have your rotors turned or replaced.

I would check two things immediately...brake wear being the first, as most pads are now equipped with "sensors" that contact the spinning rotor to create a reminder squeal. Change the brakes at this point. Second thing would be brake dust as mentioned above, HOWEVER, it is not good practice to blow brake dust with anything. At this point, the rotors must be resurfaced to remove the "glaze" caused by heat and friction to their surfaces. Remember, when resurfacing rotors, or drums, replace all pads and shoes.

Some occasional squealing can be a normal characteristic on many vehicles. Also, if you tend to let the car sit without use for days at a time, learn to live with the squeal. A few drum brake systems (Neon rear drum brakes are of note) have a design that is inherently squeaky.

Disc brakes:

• Check for any of the following conditions:
• Corroded or pitted rotors; glazed rotor surface; grooved rotor surface; incorrect rotor diameter- can all be cured by resurfacing or replacement of rotor in combination with replacement of pads.
• Incorrect pads; hard pads; old pads; pads contaminated with oil or grease; inner and outer pads reversed; left and right pads. Replace pads to correct.
• Bent, out of place, missing, or corroded backing plates, pad shims or rattle clips. Correct as needed.
• Worn or loose wheel bearing.
• Design characteristic. Consider cutting reliefs into pads or coating the back (non-friction) side of pads with grease or spray-on tacky brake silencer.

Drum brakes:

• Poor drum surface. Resurface or replace as needed.
• Cracked shoe linings. Replace.
• Shoes contaminated with grease, brake fluid, or gear oil. Replace.
• Weak return springs or shoe retainers, rusted springs, improper adjustment, lack of lubrication on backing plate at shoe contact points. Correct as needed.
• Inherent to design. Live with it. Also, consider coating the outside of the drum with high temperature enamel type paint. You will need to remove any rust from the drum and clean it with alcohol before applying. Sometimes affixing a spring or heavy band of rubber around the diameter of the drum can alleviate squeak.

If you're using low quality brake pads switch to a better grade.

Answer

This is well detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for convenient links to download an electronic version and other brakes information.

Here is advice: * Two people are required. Remove tire and the brake caliper will be exposed. On the caliper their is a bleeder nut that needs to be loosened. Have one person depress the brake pedal slowly while you loosen the bleeder nut. Brake fluid and air will come out. As fluid is leaking out, tighten the bleeder nut. Repeat this process on the remaining three tires. * Now to explain it better ... you must first start bleeding your brakes with the back passenger side, then go to the back driver side and bleed them brakes, then go to the front passenger side and bleed them, then last but not least go to the front driver side and bleed them. That is how you bleed brakes. Pay close attention to the master cylinder fluid level. If you let it drop too far and get air in the lines this way, you'll have to start all over again. * Also depends on why you want to. If you just changed front pads & got some air in the bleed valves, there's no need to mess with the rear unless you gave it a chance to circulate. * Its easier if you take both front wheels off and there is a bleed nipple on the caliper it usually takes two people one person to pump the breaks up like ten times and then you loosen the nipple it will squirt fluid out you do this till you get a steady stream with no air bubbles or breaks in the flow make sure you keep your reservoir full so you don't run out and suck more air in it when you loosen the bleed nipple the person pushing the breaks should feel the pedal go to the floor answer get a friend that know how to do it to help you also get another friend to sit in car and operate pedal so you can be under car and see what is being done it is hard to explain without you actually seeing it if you do as told in first answer all you will be doing is letting a little air out and not doing it correctly also bleed wheel furthest from brake fluid reservoir first then next furthest wheel then 3rd furthest wheel then last the closest wheel in first answer it says go to back passenger side that is not correct if reservoir is on passenger side as happens on a lot on non American cars You can bleed brakes with one person. What you need is a small empty jar (small mayo jar) a foot of rubber hose tubing, brake fluid. Put a hole on the lid the size of the rubber tubing, mark a line 1/2 way up the jar and fill it with brake fluid to the line. Starting, from right front passenger wheel, right rear passenger, left rear passenger, and on to left front wheel. Start by ensuring brake fluid reservoir is properly filled to level and put cap back on. Stick rubber hose or tubing into the hole on jar and the other end into bottom of jar. Open first bleeder and go into car and pump at least 5-8 times, stop go back and check jar. If the fluid has risen above line, then your done with that wheel. Recheck the fluid in reservoir and fill as needed, continue procedure through out all the wheels, and top of reservoir when completed.

another option if you are bleeding only the front is to have the tube end in the fluid reservoir

ANSWERS

PREVENT BLEEDING BY TWO PERSON PRESSING FOOT OR A WOOD ON THE PEDAL SPECIALLY THAT ,THE MAIN KEY IS DONT BREAK OR BEAT YOUR BRAKE PUMPS OR MASTER CYLINDER OR CALIPER,IT HAS TO BE SMOOTH PUMP LIKE GRAVITY BLEED YOU WILL NOT HURT THE PUMP THAT YOU JUST HAVE WAIT YOU LOOSE ALITTLE PRESSURE JUST BECAUSE ITS GRAVITY, THEY WILL WORK,AS LONG AS THE BLEEDING TEQNICC LIKE VACUUM BLEEDER IS THE MAIN KEY NOTHING ELSE YOU WILL SAVE YOUR BRAKE PUMPS AT THE SAME TIME VIRGIN,THERE IS NO DISSAAPOINTMENT AS LONG YOU HAVE THE WHOLE SYSTEM NO LEAKS LIKE FLUID PIPE LINES LOOSE OR SOMETHING IT WILL BE THE BEST THING LIKE THE DEALERS DO,THE GREAT THING ABOUT THE TOOL YOU CAN BLEED HYDRAULIC CLUTCH AT THE SAME TIME,YOUR MAIN PART IS MAKE SURE THERE IS NO LEAKS ON THE SYSTEM,THATS IT YOU JUST SAVE YOURSELF SOME MONEY AND A DEALER JOB WELL DONE,CRAFTSMAN OR MYTIVAC BLEEDERS,