After reading through a number of links on here it seems I have to admit to a blown headgasket don't I?
you betcha. Although I have seen intake manifold gaskets do this as well. In particular the gm motor- 3.1 liter. Continued driving of this will likely kill the bottom half of the engine. DON'T DRIVE IT!!!
Thanks Paul, it was a gasket. My mechanic is away for another ten days which is just killing me!
The other mechanic I took it to told me there was no harm in driving it but I didnt really believe that so I found a Ford forum and posted there. The reply was similar to yours plus a few other problems that could happen if I continue to drive it.
I hope I haven't ruined it already.
Anyone wanna buy a car?
Jo, While your waiting for your mechanic, drain your oil, leave the plug out overnight. Put the plug back in add 2 quarts of oil to flush some residue out, and drain again. Re-istall the plug again and add 4 quarts of fresh oil. You should not be running it at all. When your guy is back have it towed there. And ahh.. No Thanks on the "new car"!
Well, I live pretty far up north, and I see alot of that (oil looking milky) that can be from water in the oil. I notice this happen alot in winter (well, all the time because where I live there is only 3 months real summer anyway) So it gets cold and freezes. I've seen oil look like coffee when you put the whitner in. Pretty weird, eh?
Milky OIl appearance is generally caused by condensation in an engine. This happens when you drive a short distance. The water from the crank case is not burned off. This is normal. Just get her good and hot and this should cure your worries. I know that this is a scary sight because you automatically think head gasket and $$$$ but if your driving habits in cold weather don't allow for a hot engine then this is your problem.
Especially on the dip stick and filler cap interior.
10 quarts of Type H transmission fluid. This is a total fill up after the torque converter was drained. Do not overfill the transmission or you will have foaming or you could blow the transmission seals. If you did not fully drain it, check it at the transmission dip stick after everytime you put a quart in thru the dip stick tube. Did you change the filter? You might check therangerstation.com for other information.
Here is the deal. Easy to complex. 1. The EGR vale may be faulty"pluged up". The EGR hose and or the orfice that it connects to may be pluged up with carbon. This is common on engines that burn some oil. Disassemble and clean hose and orfice. Replace the PCV vale. 2. A blown headgasket can put pressure into the engine.It does this by letting cylender pressure vent into the crank case. Its too much for the PCV to vent so the engine ends up pressurized. 3.Bad rings can cause a pressurized crank case. what happens here is that the combustion gas passed by the worn out rings and ends up in the crank case. As you can see, if its not a PCV vale problem the repairs will cost some real money. Sometimes it better to just go and get a good used engine to relace a sick one.
push in on the turn signal...
Place a jack under tank to support the tank. Remove fuel tank straps. Slowly lower tank. When able to reach in, diconnect all electric lines and fuel lines. Continue to lower tank and remove.
Helpful hint, hope the tank is nearly empty.
Some additional info: If your suburban has the optional shield package, then you 1st must remove the fuel tank shield sitting underneath/around the tank bottom. There are 4 bolts that hold the front of the shroud and 3 or 4 that hold the rear. They thread into captive nuts inside the relevant frame members (they are long - about 6"). Once removed, drop the shround and now you can remove the straps etc.
Please disconnect the negative terminal from the battery before you proceed with any of the above.
***Check the PCV valve. This can cause a vacuum leak which most likely your problem.***
Common mileage boosters include replacing fuel filter, rotating tires and checking air pressure, adding fuel injector cleaner, installing new spark plugs, checking timing, replacing removable cover with a lighter cover or removing it comletely, disengaging front hubs, replacing timing chain, replacing PCV valve and making sure there are no leaks where it enters engine.
IF IT IS EQUIPPED WITH A CLUTCH FAN, REPLACE IT WITH A FLEX FAN (CHEAPEST) OR BETTER YET A FLEX-O-LITE ELECTRIC FAN. REPLACE THE STOCK EXHAUST MANIFOLDS WITH A SET OF HEADERS. THESE TWO ITEMS WILL NET YOU A 15 TO 20% INCREASE IN GAS MILEAGE. CORRECT TIRE INFLATION IS A BIGGIE. HERE'S THE EASY FORMULA. 1 PSI = 2 % LESS MILEAGE. IF IT CALLS FOR 35 PSI AND YOUR AT 32 PSI, YOUR LOSING 6% OF YOUR GAS MILEAGE. INFLATE YOUR TIRES TO THE CORRECT PSI, WHEN THEY ARE DEAD COLD. A MANIFOLD VACUUM GAUGE, MOUNTED INSIDE THE DRIVERS AREA SOMEWHERE, IS A DIRECT GAS MILEAGE INDICATER. THE LOWER THE READING THE WORSE THE MILEAGE. YOU WILL BE AMAZED HOW THIS DEVICE, IF USED CORRECTLY, WILL INCREASE YOU MILEAGE BY JUST SHOWING THE INSTANT READOUT YOU NEED, TO MONITER, MINUTE BY MINUTE, YOUR FUEL USAGE. GOOD LUCK.
The thing that you can do to my knowledge is to try somegow to color cote or number your pieces so that you will know where they go. If not you will end up in my shoes and have your carb tore apart and now not know how to put it back together.
take out the 2 bolts that hold it
If we knew what "it" was, maybe we could help you. True, the 39A, one of the classiest .22 rifles you can possibly buy, is made to take down into two sub-assemblies. Don't know if "it" does or not. Try again with a more specific question. I have followed the take down instructions in order to take the action apart in two sections, however there is something that has come apart in the interior preventing me from coming up with two pieces when I take the (thumb Screw) out, as it's called step 1 unload the rifle step 2 be sure you have unloaded the rifle step 3 bring the hammer to full cock step 4 lossen the takedown screw step 5 if the gun is fairly new or has never been taken down the rifle due to tight tolerance on these guns, might need a firm slap (with your palm) on the opposite side of the stock from takedown screw in order to get the halves to seperate. just be sure to protect the finish and dont beat it with a hammer step 6 hammer must be cocked for reasembly almost all of them are tight on initial disasembly - Note: do not touch the lever during dissembly and reassembly. Manual shows a picture of tapping barrel muzzle on padded surface. Picture is not clear, but you can also lay gun on your lap with the receiver flat, muzzle to your left, buttstock to your right, with the lever facing away from you - smack the receiver near the half moon shape joint. That is where the two halves dovetail together. At this point the buttstock piece should be able to pivot/lift off the barrel portion of the assembly. If you try the method listed in the manual make sure you are holding the gun "sideways" - so the the receiver is parallel to the floor. Gun should "fold" down in the center to disassemble. The only part that can come out is the bolt/firing pin assembly. It is pretty easy to put back in, study the parts and slide it back into the receiver from the rear prior to assembly. There are parts diagrams on the internet to show orientation of the parts if you aren't sure.
you have to remove the two bolts at the bottom of the drivers side dash (the knee panel)then pull off the panel,the top just snaps in. the on the pass. side there is a bolt behind the little hook on the dash. then pull the shifter all the way down into first, and then just pull the panel off around the radio gently it just snaps on/off 7-11-07
I have a 2002 ram 1500. On mine there is one screw behind the hook that holds trash bags. Take that screw out and just the middle section will pop out by pulling from the top on either side. Don't forget to take your knobs for you air and lighter off.
http://www.geocities.com/amixam69/nissan/dash/ go to that site and it gives you step by step instructions on how to remove your dash.
Hey krystal==This is a VERY BIG JOB. I suggest you take it to a auto trim shop. GoodluckJoe
Hey I own a 1995 Presidential, to remove the dash I know as far as the front plate that trimes out the radio and controls is mostly clips that u can pop out but first there are Philips head screws in each vent. If u look at the top of the vent(inside the vent) at the top u will find a screw. After you take those out , it's clips on the top of the dash, u get the top to pop out pull firm but with caution. Then u tip the top away lifting it up and the bottom, it lifts right out. when u go to put it back in place use tape such as electrical or masking tape. Tape over the screw hole in the inside of each vent pop the screw in the tape to help u put the screws back in. Good Luck!!!
P.S.Shift on the column in 1st, and tilt your steering wheel all the way down to finish getting it out.
First, you'll need to remove the wood trim from the dash. It is held in by a series of clips, so it's just a matter of carefully popping the trim out. Once the wood trim pieces are removed, next you'll remove the vents from the black trim of the dash. Turn them all the way to one side and pull as best as you can. They will pop out (although you might need a screwdriver to wedge in behind if they don't come right out). Removing the wood trim and vents will reveal approximately 10 (don't recall the exact #) torx head screws. Remove those, and then you can remove the black dash panel (you might need to shift the car into neutral to get the panel out). Then, the radio will be exposed. Remove the two remaining screws and then the radio. The plugs clip in and can be stiff to remove. From there, connect your new radio (if it's factory, just plug it in) and then reassemble the dash.
Although after reading the answer above me, I am thinking they might be Phillips head. Either way, there are screws to remove...
These were poorly designed units and have no replacement parts available. Don't buy one from a junkyard--you'll have the same problem with that one.
You can buy a new regulator/motor assembly from any auto parts store. Then follow the directions below:
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel:
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring
In my experience, the manufacturer used parts that weren't meant to be re-used. Before you rip apart the door, test the motors and switches. It isn't clear whether the motor is burned out, or the switch's contact points are worn. It might be cheaper to get a simple multimeter, and check the switch. To do this, you just need the take the multimeter's wire leads, and connect them to the power in (12+) and power out (to the motor). Turn the multimeter to the picture that looks like a triangle with a line bisecting it, and check the display. Once connected, depress the switch. If the multimeter reads something, then the problem is the motor. A boneyard might have replacements for both of these parts, but if you could isolate exactly what is causing the problem, it would be far cheaper than to simply replace the whole assembly.
Note: The best place to find a cheap multimeter is at a surpluss store. They usually need their battery replace though, so don't trust the readings until the battery has been replaced. Another benefit to these meters is that they can't be burned out by slight over voltages, and they don't have polarity (you can hook them up both ways without destroying them).
MOST Bronco 2's from most years originally 2 fuel pumps, one mounted on the frame rail directly below the driver's seat, and the second on mounted inside the gas tank. This is for those.
For either one you need to first make sure the fuel system is depressurized-unless you don't mind getting sprayed with gasoline. If you've started the engine in the last few months just do it. If you've been cranking the engine repeatedly because you think the fuel pump is no good, you've probably already depressurized it.....
Easiest way to relieve system pressure is to trip the emergency fuel cut off switch (passenger side near the hump under the top edge of the carpeting) and crank the engine for about 20 seconds. To trip that switch just whack it-not too hard though. If you hear a click and the button is sticking out with some spring pressure behind it it's tripped. If you find it that way already......push it in and after cranking your engine may start.
The front pump is very easy to replace, if you happen to have a 2WD version. It's tougher with 4WD, because there is such tight access to the front fuel pump that you may have to take the front driveshaft ujoint apart to be able to get the pump out. (If you don't, count yourself lucky and skip past the ujoint instructions.)
I have the official 2" thick FORD TRUCK workshop manual for Bronco2 and it does not explain how to remove the front pumpif it's bracket doesn't clear the frame rail, so here's what's involved.
To the uninitiated this may seem daunting, but know that it's not that difficult. But read this in detail more than once before starting. There are a few little things to watch out for and it's easy to damage a ujoint by rough or careless handling. And there's no fixing a bad one. If you are hoping to reuse the ujoint, go slowly and use as little force as possible to get the job done. If you're replacing one, you don't have to be as gentle on DISSASSEMBLY.
The flat, circular spring clips are there to hold the grease cups of the ujoint's "Spider/cross" in position side to side and to make certain that grease doesn't come out and crud doesn't sneak in.
The clips can usually be pried/tapped out reasonably easily with a screwdriver tapped by a small hammer-sometimes just by pushing/prying with a large screwdriver if they're clean enough and not rusty. REMEMBER that these are STRONG SPRING CLIPS and once out of their groove they WILL fly if you don't stop them. If you lose one it's not that easy to find an exact replacement without buying a whole ujoint, so wrap a rag around the area where you're tapping/prying.
Spray the cup/clip recesses with something that can loosen or dissolve rust and go get lunch or come back tomorrow if they are very rusty looking. On some clips that appear to go all the way around the groove, one end of the flat clip is designed to be able to move inwards past the other end, but the other end can't, so look for a gap between the ends of the clip. Some aftermarket-type clips will have little holes in their ends and need retaining ring pliers to get them out the easiest without damage, but factory ones from that era usually don't. Remove the clips. Put them in a safe place. Clean out the area in front of the cups on both sides if rusty or crud filled.
MARK THE UJOINT'S POSITION AND CROSS SO YOU CAN REASSEMBLE THE CROSS BACK INTO IT THE SAME WAY. Original equipment drive shafts and ujoints are frequently a matched balanced set and if you rotate the ujoint from it's original position there may be a noticeable vibration afterwards-or worse.
There are small diameter, long needle bearings living in grease inside the cups. The bearings are a snug fit onto the machined surface of the spider/cross. The 2 cups are there to hold the bearings and the grease is retained by a resilient seal at the end of the cup. If that seal is HARD it may very well chip or break if you're careless when putting the cups back on after taking them off.
Those cups have to slide off to get enough room to pull the spider far enough out of the ujoint to separate it. Originally the needle bearings had a sufficient amount of grease packed around them to hold them in position when the cups are slid off the spider, and if yours are still good protect them from dirt and get the cups back onto the spider as quickly as possible and then tape them or tie a rag around the exposed cups so they don't come off, but if they've dried out and fall out or the inside surface of the spider looks scored or dented with parallel lines it's been without grease for too long, get a new u joint. ALSO If you get grit or other crud into the cups it will eventually damage the needle bearings and if even one falls out they're small enough that you may very well lose it, so if you can see any gap or rust in the row of bearings when you look inside before putting it back on, plan on buying and installing a new ujoint.
(Before you button things up for the final time, you might put a small dab of wheel bearing grease into the cups just to be sure that there's enough, unless they have grease fittings, if yours does, grease it after reassembly.)
Now, start with 2 appropriately sized sockets positioned on either side of the cross with a long one on the pushing/tapping side if possible, (because it might get stuck and be harder to extract).
You'll be tapping or squeezing the closer side socket and cup that covers the spider using the smaller diameter socket, while catching/protecting the opposite side cup with the larger diameter one when/if it comes off. This is especially important if you're not using the "C" clamp method.
The socket that you're going to be tapping/squeezing should fit the recess but be as large a diameter as possible to push against the cup so that the cup's surface and the retaining groove don't get damaged. If the retaining groove is damaged the clip may not go in at all or may not seat fully and could fly out right away or sometime later. If tat clip comes out the cup will work it's way outboard further out on the cross and eventually fall off. Method of choice is a very large "C" clamp to squeeze with, and the second method is to tap the socket with a SOFT FACED hammer or a mallet. If you have an extension that fits into an upside down socket without protruding this gives more surface contact and spreads out the impact. If not, impact sockets usually have much thicker walls.
So finally up to the front pump.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the pump bracket to the frame.
Disconnect the wire connectors, one OEM type just slides off, others need to be pried apart.
Disconnect the fuel line fittings and have a rag around it-some from the fuel lines gas WILL come out, usually not more than an ounce.
Do your testing of the pump now that you can see what you're doing.
Remove pump from bracket if not reusing it.
Reverse the process to install.
Ford used at least 2 different types of fuel line connectors, so make SURE you can tell which one is used on yours, because one requires using a special insertion-type tool to open the connector. The other one can be pried back far enough to pull the line from the fitting or fitting from pump. by using a small screwdriver. If you DON'T use that tool on the fittings that require it you have a very good chance of CREATING a gas leakage problem after reinstallation of the old or installing the new pump.
The back pump requires a different level of commitment.
The Bronco2 repair books always say to lower the tank to remove and install in-tank fuel pumps. You can read up on that in lots of places.
The alternate way to replace the Bronco 2's tank-mounted fuel pump is to leave the tank in place and to cut a hole in the cabin floor for access, but that requires you to repair and seal the hole afterwards. If you cut a reasonably sized hole the repair doesn't HAVE to be structurally strong in that area-but it should be sealed against rusting and restored enough to make it water tight.
For some people this is a much better option as it doesn't require crawling around underneath and dealing with the problems associated with removal and installation of the tank and it's possibly rusty surroundings.
You'd be working around gasoline in liquid and gaseous forms, so care is required to avoid sparking when cutting the hole and a non-welded repair of the hole is what most people should attempt.
When I did ours, after approximately locating the pump's position from below I drilled 4 fairly large corner holes with DEPTH MARKED DRILL BITS and used a SHORT metal cutting blade (set up in such a way as to not be able to penetrate very far below the surface) to cut out a single piece of the floor metal approximately that was about 7 " on a side, possibly smaller. (The hole would not have to be that big if YOU get lucky and happen to end up perfectly centered over the pump retaining ring, but this gave me some leeway) You also need to be VERY careful with both drilling and cutting the sheet metal floor as there may be only about 1" of safe working space below the metal and above the tank. And about possibly cutting yourself on the edges of the hole.
If done that way it's not beyond the skill set of many backyard fixer upper types and you'll have most of the patch premade-or at least a pattern if you're ambitious and want to just shape a bigger metal one to bridge the hole.
The easiest repair would be to use the removed piece as a "scaffold" held in place by short sheet metal screws, while layering fiberglass cloth and resin over the area, extending the fiberglass a few inches wider than the actual opening of course. This will be fine for most people- both watertight and reasonably strong if done well. I chose to do a tougher repair, because I needed the floor to be very strong against possible penetration damage from potentially dropping heavy things like tool boxes on that area.
Plan to cut out the area depending on how you're going to fix it afterwards. For fiberglassing it's not as critical because the patched area will still have a low profile afterwards.
I cut it so that the hole had "high" areas of the ribbed floor on the top and bottom edges of the hole I cut, but that was because I used 2 long pieces and one slightly shorter of 1/8 or maybe 3/16" x approx 1-1/4" bar stock to strengthen the hole, bolted those in place sideways (working through the hole), overlapping the front and back edges of the hole, securing the bars with short CARRIAGE bolts (flattened round heads) using locknuts from below. This required squaring the drilled holes slightly.
The width of steel that I used nestled into the "ribs" of the floor's metal. (The longer supports were long enough to extend about 3-4"past each side of the hole.) By not bolting the center bar into position yet, I was still able to lay and remove safety shielding from sparks under the floor. I clamped the already-bolted top and bottom pieces tightly against the floor metal and tack welded ONLY the outer 2 to the hole edges as further stiffener, ground them smooth, and ran a bead of silicone around the hole's edge and let it partially set up before laying the cutout in place and securing it with only a couple of short sheet metal screws. I put down another layer of waterproof sealer and painted the surface with rust barrier paint, because I'd decided to not seal the floor with fiberglass-to make it easier if future access was ever necessary.
By using carriage bolts, even though the heads are above the highest level of the original floor, the carpeting on top makes them nearly undetectable.
buy the HAYNES repair manual...it covers brake pad changes completely
POSSIBLY A LOOSE GROUND WIRE AT LEAST THAT IS WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR ON MINE,GOOD LUCK! The most likely cause on the late 80's Bronco & Ranger for headlight problems is the failure of the Dimmer switch connection. I had to completely replace the connector & switch on my '88 Bronco II to resolve the problem.
I'm guessing you mean spark plug gap? .050
take off the gas tank and then find a small chain, put the chain inside the gas tank add some gas and shake it for about 2 minutes, drain the gas and repeat if gas was orange or until u get it clean.
Check out toyotanation.com They have a forum dedicated to paseo,tercels,startlets They also have a common engine swap guide there.
0.035 inch was a previous answer.
I would seriously verify that. I show 0.035" as the SPARK GAP of the spark plugs, not the point gap inside the distributor.
The point gap I found was more like 0.017" measured with the points open on the high lobe of the distributor shaft.
yes they will interchange . you should have mo major problems switching them.
Head Gasket leak most likely.
The 1.9L is the same, except no intake plenum support bracket to remove from underneath. I eventually got this repair done, but it is a tight job that took several hours longer than anticipated and had some issue rewiring the battery cable. But then again, I am a novice. - canavm
Give me food and I will live give me water and I will die what am I?
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