Assuming you mean in a convertible, I used the Iron on patches on the inside of the top. (like the ones Mom used to fix the knees in my jeans) Holds up and works great.
The engine computer is also the voltage regulator.
2 reasons why..
1st need to add hydraulic oil to the pump.. which is located in the truck on the upper right side. Easy access is to remove the back seat and body panel
2nd.. has the top been down for any lenght of time.. because if it has then it has shrunk an inch or so.. just get a buddy to help you pull and lock the roof into closed position.. then wet roof so it will stretch again and leave roof closed for a day ot 2
more info at this forum
I don't have a solution yet but this is common on these cars.
Raise the bolt to the unlocked position, then pull the trigger while removing the bolt. That makes no sense. The Model 60 is a semiautomatic firearm, not a bolt-action. The old style Model 60 used the operating handle as a bolt hold-open. Pull the bolt about 3/4 way to the rear and push in on the bolt handle to lock it open. Pull the bolt handle back out and the bolt will be released to run forward. Newer Model 60's have a bolt release lever that extends down through the trigger guard.
FROM Beast of Burden Touch Chrysler/Mitsubishi 3.0L V6 Engine By Larry Carley, Technical Editor
..The water pump pulley runs off the timing belt[..to drive the overhead cams]. The recommended replacement interval is 60,000 miles , and considering how much effort is involved to get at these parts it's probably a good idea to replace the water pump, too. Also, check the tube that runs from the back of the pump to the back of the engine. Replace it if it is corroded or leaking. The service life of the OEM water pumps is about the same as the timing belt, so it makes sense to replace both at the same time. You may save yourself a comeback and you'll certainly save your customer a lot of money on labor by doing both jobs at once.
..This engine has two inlet coolant pipes that connect from the heater core and the rear of the engine to the water pump. The pipes are located in the valley of the cylinder block. These pipes are sealed with O-rings on the ends and become easily distorted when the engine is disassembled. If the pipes become distorted or the O-rings are not replaced air can enter the cooling system immediately after start-up.
To check for this after air is detected in a system, check for hydrocarbons in the coolant. If no hydrocarbons are present, look for these pipes to be leaking.
According to the service manuals for the 1993-1995 LeBarons with 3.0 Litres V6, the recommended timing belt replacement interval is not 60000 miles, it is 100000 miles (somewhat more than 1550000 kms. It is recommended to replace the water pump and the poulley, too. If the timing belt rips, it does not damage your engine, so do not care.
You have to calculate at least 5, up to 10 hrs to replace it yourself. I wrote a photo documented manual 2 years ago, but the text is in german, maybe you could have a look at my pictures to see, what is to do and to estimate the time you will use....
Pictures at: http://www.barontreff.ch/gallery3/index.php/technisch/Wasserpumpen-Ersatz-Oktober-2010
(For the moderator of this: Those are my pictures, my own copyright, and this is my personal text, so there is no reason to remove or block it. I am the owner of the mentionned site and all pictures are made by myself and can be used public)
Check your fuse first, then the trim switch.
Assuming the Up trim still works correctly, I would suspect a failure (in this order) of the down trim solenoid, the trim switch, or the trim motor. If your outboard has more than one trim switch (most newer ones have one at the helm and one on the outside of the motor cowling), try the other switch. If it works, suspect a bad switch. There are two identical solenoids that control the up/down trim motor. If the outboard only trims in one direction, switch the two solenoids and see if the outboard will now only trim in the opposite direction. If so, one of the solenoids is defective. Note: These tend to fail in pairs. If you have to replace one, I recommend replacing them both at the same time.
To test the trim motor, take your outboard to a certified marine mechanic.
Follow the top hose from the top left of the radiator back to the top left side of engine block where it ends in a dome called the THERMOSTAT HOUSING. Now.. look down the side of the engine the water pump is down there. According to HAYNES.. PIA job 3 hrs for an experienced mechanic..
Info good 1989 thru 1995 lebarons.. this info from a m8 on..
I just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '96 3.0L. When I called around to the different garages in my area they wanted anywhere from $450 - $600 to do the job. I bought a book, did some searching online and did the job myself. If you look at the link below, it gives instructions on how to make a tool to hold the cam sprockets (which you really don't need unless you intend to replace seals) I sleeved and replaced seals on the cams and the crank while it had it apart. IIRC the book rate for this is somewhere around 5 hours. If you do decide to do it yourself, the front of the water pump does not "just come off" - there is a small screw that screws in from the back side of the housing - do not try to pry the front of the pump off - you will break the tab. You will need to pry the complete pump off the coolant pipe that runs under the intake manifold (there is a large O-ring on the end of the pipe that fits into the back of the pump. If you are doing the water pump do yourself a favor and replace the timing belt also.
Chrysler's in general have a bad reputation when it comes to starter replacement, and in some cases one must disassemble a good amount of the car just to reach the plagued part (You do not have to remove anything from the car to reach the starter, it is located (not *) on all Chrysler leBarons on the cars front, but you have to lift the car up. Then there is 1 wire to be unpluged and another to be unscrewed to remove the electrical connecton. Then you must remove 4 bolts and the starter can be pulled away from the driver's side - pls. calculate 10 mins. for removing and another 10 mins. to mount the new starter, kinda easy work to be done). Fortunately the Chrysler LeBaron has most of it's belts to the left instead of in the front. Most of the time the starter is on the opposite side of the belts, in this case you will find the starter to the right of the engine block.
The LeBaron has a K body, so jack-up the car at the nose. Make very sure you engage your emergency break system and use some sort of stopper on both wheels for safety. Also make very sure you are making repairs to the car on a flat surface. That last thing you want is to be killed during as simple procedure as changing a starter.
Remove the power terminal from the battery post to prevent any electrical shortage.
Follow the red power lead from the battery to the starter located in the middle of the vehicle just to the left of the oil filter. There is 3 9/16" hex bolts that hold the starter to the engine, remove the bolts in a standard counter clockwise motion to
Mark the location of the spline shaft on the flange of the starter so when you put the new one in it goes on the same way.
Remove the 1/2" bolt that holds on the red power 16 gauge wire, clean and wire brush the wire terminal ends for good clean connection.
Follow this same procedure for re-installation of the new starter.
-> * on the 4 cyl. engines the starter is BEHIND the engine, between turbo and transaxles and you have to remove the engine mounts in front and at the back of the engine, move the engine towards the front and then you can try to remove the screws and the electric connections. this uses about 1-2 hrs. of work and it is much more difficult than at the V6 engines
->> It ist NOT a K-Body, it is a J-Body (V6 3,0 Liters are all J-Bodies).
You just lift the car on the front, then you will see the starter just at the front end of the engine, remove the 4 screws, remove the 2 cables (one is fixed with a screw) and then pull the starter to the passenger side. The new starter is to stick in in the opposite direction, screw on the 4 screws and fix the wires (one with a screw fixed, too).
Totally you will not use more than 15 mins on the V6 engines to replace the starter.
I totally agree about the 2.2 and 2.5 Litres, on them, it is crappy to remove the starter....
Open up the hood, and go in behind the fixture where the light is located. Sometimes there is an access panel on top. Open it and reach down inside and grab the bulb's socket. Twist the socket a quarter turn counter clockwise, and pull out the socket. Grab the bulb, and pull it straight out. To replace the new bulb, never touch it with your bare fingers, as this will greatly shorten the bulb's life, if it even work's at all. Use a tissue or something else in that order to handle the new bulb. Push the new bulb into the socket, put the socket back into the housing, and twist a quarter turn clockwise to secure the socket into the fixture
-> on the 1994 (1993-1995) Lebaron you have to unscrew the 4 screws each on top of the front light, remove the wire from the electric height ajustment (metal wire with bubble at the front end) to the top, pull the entire light part out of the front mask and then, you will see the rear side of the bulps.
NEVER place the glass part on top of the hood, otherwise it will fall down, crack completely and you will have to pay lots of quids to replace it...
Hey Barbara==It could be as simple as a blown fuse. Check ALL of the fuses. Goodluck, Joe
Chrysler tied the cigar lighter fuse in with the park lamp circut go to the cigar fuse and replace it and it will be tadah, dash lights.
I had the same problem on my 91 convertible. Checked all fuses and replaced, still not working. I ran a hot fused wire under the console and attached it to the hot line for the cigar lighter. Horn and lighter now work great.
Hello there, I have a LeBaron Sedan. If neither the dashboard or the horn works, maybe it's a fuse the cause, or perhaps your electric system has a short circuit issue that you must attend before more electric-related systems fail. That's what happened to my car about ten years ago; first the radio when out, in a month or so after that the dashboard, later the directionals. If the fuse replacement doesn't work for your car problem, feel free to contact me at email@example.com
It could be the horn relay located behind the drivers side kick panel next to floor or you can check it by turning the ignition on and pressing on the Two horn buttons and listening to see if the relay clicks as you press the button. If it doesn't click the horn relay needs to be replaced. Note: There are 8 or 10 relays on this relay block so you must use the diagram located on the backside of the panel that covers the lower part of the steering wheel.
what confuses most is the way the belt loops around the tensioner, the belt goes around the steering pump and crankshaft pulley, under the idler pulley, under the belt tensioner pulley and finally with the tensioner compressed around the alternator. the idler and belt tensioner wheels both get the flat backside of the belt. use your imagination. if you have too much slack, which is the route that will use up the most belt?? the 94' and 95' Chrysler Lebaron are fairly the same in serpentine belt order, although you may find a variation or two. The diagram is as thus... http://darkada.com/pages/serpentine.html Sorry about the link, but wikianswers does not support images
Have a rebuilt trans installed/
BEFORE you replace the tranmission, go to your Chrysler dealer and let him read out the transmission error codes. It could be "only" the solenoid valve block, that has errors or maybe the TCM transmission control module is faulty. You will find boht parts (solenoid and TCM) in eBay for a few bucks
-> if it only works in 3rd gear, the tranny has not to be replaced. Maybe the selector wires are blocked or unhooked, first check this an try to oil them a bit. Otherwise, the Solenoid and/or the Filters are blocked with sticky, old tranny oil (ATF) then first unplug the battery for at least 12 hours (to reset the TCMs settings), remove the Transmission solenoid at the front side of the transmission, at the front side of the car (4 long screws) and 1 electric connectior. clean the solenoid in petrol or with using a lot of WD40, specially clean the 8 little oil seaves specially, rebuild all and in 90 % of all cases, the tranny will work again for the next 100000 miles or so, unless everything gets sticky again.
The best is to replace the replaceable part of the 9 Litres of Transmission fluid (only ATF+3 or similar, never, NEVER use Dexron)), you will only be able to replace about 4-5 Litres, and do not forget to replace the Transmission fluid Filter below the Tranny
The Chrysler A604/41TE (and newer) transmissions are much much much better than their reputation and I know many of them working up to 500000 kms / over 300000 miles without any problems.
they can probably be changed the way as the 92 by just taking out both of the bolts on the caliper.
Look on passenger side rear of engine
yeah-ive had this same prob and half to re-train myself every spring forward -fall back ...1st turn radio "on" then at the buttons on the right hand side of the radio- 1. press the "set" button once,(thie puts it into clock mode), then 2. press the "sel" select button once, (this puts it into hour change mode), then 3. using the tuning/seek button-and pressing either up or down to move the "hour" forward or backwards, then/or 4. press the "sel" button once more time/or twice (this puts it in minute change mode) and use seek button to move the minutes forward or backwards, and hopefully you are done, to get out of the settings mode - just wait 1-2 minutes and it defaults back to radio controls
The flasher located under the steering column. It doesn't look like your usual silver flasher. It is a control modual, which looks like an ECM or a rather larger box. If you are having problems with flashers, try checking fuses.
Go to the library or to the auto parts store and buy the Chiltons manual for this car- All the wiring diagrams for the vehicle are in the back of the manuals. rniz
Haynes makes a manual that is a bit easier to understand than the Chiltons. Autozone and NAPA sell them.
By saying you need to "repair" the drive belts can it be assumed that you mean you need to change them? If so, the best way to find the procedure and proper routing would be to buy a Haynes repair manual for your model from an automotive store or check your local library for a Chilton repair manual. Both contain valuable info on much more pertaining to your car. !
Can't say that I picture a LeBaron wagon as a police car, but hey- small towns have limited budgets. The 'typical' cruiser is a Ford Crown Victoria, because it's built to stand up to stressful service. The usual 'Cop package' consists of: -Heavy duty brakes and suspension -A 'muscle' engine, such as the Ford 250 ci, with overdrive (Gets about 9mpg in-town) -A driver-side hand operated spot light -A 'kill' switch for the fuel pump, located in the trunk -An emergency escape trunk latch release -Supplemental wiring(blue light bar, siren, etc) There's also a 'pursuit' package, consisting of a super-stock engine, wrap-around tubular steel front bumper and front end reinforcement- just the thing for punching those fleeing felons off the road. The most important component of any 'specialty' package is the driver. Most law enforcement types are exposed to pursuit/evasive driving courses, which teach you how to not only properly use the special toys, but get the most out of any vehicle you drive.
Ther is no egr valve on the 2.2 turbo engines. With FI and turbo, there was no need. Some of the earlier carb engines did have egr.
1-Go behind rear seat and remove vinyle and cardboard covering.2-Locate the motor/hydrolic fluid reservoir (if on knees in rear seat facing rear window will be on right side).3-On right side of motor unit will be a rubber stopper, remove this and with a large plastic syringe, remove hydrolic fluid.4-Replace rubber stopper and the convertible top can then be operated manually.Remember, if you want to operate top electrically again, fluid must be replaced.
Pull off the speaker grille and remove speaker, ease out the seat/window/mirror/switch panel by sliding a screwdriver under the back end and ease panel out, disconnect wires from panel, unscrew escutcheon behind inner door handle, lift our small section of "carpet" from door pull and remove screw, locate and remove 3 screws in the bottom carpeted section of the door panel (you can feel the holes by running your fingers over the carpeted section) pull door panel away from door and disconnect puddle light and you are done!
There should be a map somewhere under the hoo. If not, You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.
It has a serpentine belt and you have a bolt in the front ( passenger side)of the block that releases the tension on the belt,the tensioner is NOT spring loaded, and remove the belt. Install the new one with the schematic on the fan shroud, If it isn't there draw one before removing the belt. Don't rely on memory. you cannot remember at least if you are old like me LOL
The top one should connect to the rear valve cover (nearest the firewall), while the lower one is meant to help drain any water that may wind up in the filter housing. Notice that the lower hose is too short to connect to anything nearby. Hope this helps.
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