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It really depends. If you tractor is 2wd then Front is (5-12, 4 ply, F2 tire) and the Rear (9.5-16, 4 ply, R1 tire). If your 650 is a 4wd then the rear is the same but the front is (6-12, 4 ply, R1 tire) Hope this helps you out.

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check out this link

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl962.htm

the easiest way to test your idea is to get two pieces of wire and put a fuse between them so that the fuse will take the load if there is a problem ,then check the link you suspect to be faulty first put one end of the made up wire where the link gets its power then put the other end of the madeup wire to where ever the power should be going by doing this you will bypass the fusable link as for now it will be supplied power from the new made up wire if the item works its the link if it makes no difference this is not the problem area good luck

Usualy a fuseable link that is fried will feel hard and not flexable. A continuty tester is the best way of testing it. Get a dvm volt meter.

Measure it with a meter. It is the only way to tell for sure.

good now for a quick check ...pull some in the fuseable link with your two fingers....if it streches it's shot...if it breacks looose it was making a bad connection and is bad any way....this is as quick of a test when you have just your brains to figure how to check circuits and parts. note. now what do you use to replace a fuseable link when you don't have one availaible? i know lets see if anyone else knows......

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Call them at 1-800-544-1108. It's just under $20.

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YES, any motor will fit in any body. IF you are willing to do the work of changing all the accessories. The computer, wiring harness, exhaust,ect. call Ford and ask them.

yes a ford bronco can have a lighting motor. it just takes alot of new parts and time.

well it depends on what year of the lightnings, if you want the 1st gen which had the 5.8 in it its just an easy swap it will bolt right up with your stock tranny and mounts if you have the 5.0 or 5.8. the supercharged 5.4 will require the work. cpu, tranny, engine/tranny/fuel harnesses, crossmembers, etc..

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You must remove the entire rear fender.

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As far as I know, you just put the truck up, remove a bit of brake fluid from the master cylinder (and dispose of it, never reuse brake fluid) to avoid it overflowing when you take a c-clamp and tighten it enough on the caliper to bottom the pistons in their bores (this is when the master cylinder fluid level rises) then remove the c-clamp. I'm not sure but i think you can just pop out the two caliper slide pin bolts (top one first, try to retain as much of the grease on them as possible) and pull the caliper off. Since I haven't actually done this yet, you might need to take the caliper assembly off of the wheel hub by two bolts (factory loc-tite'ed, so that might take an impact wrench, or maybe my 120lb body isn't strong enough). suspend the caliper assembly with a wire so it doesn't just hang from the brake line. then switch out your pads (and shims if applicable) on your anchor plate, slide the caliper back over the pads, line up the pins and tighten them to 14-26 ft lbs. if you had to remove those bolts from the wheel hub, spec says 80ft lbs, and you may want to re-loctite them. replace wheels, lower truck, start it up, pump the brakes to readjust the pistons (pedal may go to the floor the first time, just keep pumping till they feel firm), top off the master cylinder and you're done.

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Because the brake shop used an air impact wrench to install the wheels. Incorrect or mismatched torque on the wheel lug nuts will warp the stock flimsy rotors. Either, have the shop manually torque the wheels and/or install higher quality rotors. Once the damage is done you can't undo it without machining the rotors or replacing them. Machining flimsy rotors just makes them easier to warp next time Are you sure that your pulsation is coming the front brake rotors.Test drive your vehicle in large parking lot where there are no cars or very few cars.Do not exceed 10 mph.Gently engage the parking brake without applying the brake pedal.If you feel a pulsation,your problem is in the rear.Machine or replace the brake drums/rotors and shoes/pads.If the pulsation can be felt in the steering wheel,remove wheels,remove calipers and brake rotors.Check for rust on the wheel hub(this is the area directly behind rotor where wheel studs are located).If rust exist remove with wire brush.Next check guide pins.These should move with minimal effort using your hand.If there is no problem with rust or frozen guide pins,measure rotors,machine or replace if not within specs. and replace pads.If you are using a air operated impact wrench use a toque stick with least amount toqure.The next step is very important USE A TORQUE WRENCH.You can borreow one from most major part store chain such AutoZone and O'Reilly.Please me know if this solves your problem.

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Hey Mike==It is on the back of the engine and you first remove the neg battery cable then the cables off of the starter then take the bolts out and workit out among the exharst . GoodluckJoe

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The belt tensioner is right in front of your alternator. You will see a big long screw going down in front of the alternator and to the left and underneath the screw you will see a bolt. Loosen the bolt and then loosen the screw and the belt should come off when you loosen it enough. Just did it not long ago on mine, very simple process.

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use new pads and shims, repack wheel bearings and replace grease seals, set factory bearing tension, and resurface/replace rotors.

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Use as much gas as possible. Draining tank completely is almost impossible. Remove the gas cap. Remove the fuel door and boot around the tank's goose neck. Replace the gas cap. If not using a car lift, use two floor jack stands that will support the rear body forward of the rear axle. Use the second notch on the tallest of jack stands. Remove the rear tires. Using a floor jack support the rear end. Keep the floor jack towards either wheel drum. You will need the area to the rear of the axle. Remove the muffler. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the catayletic converter. Let the exhaust pipe rest on the axle. Remove the heat shield and exhaust pipe shield. Using the floor jack raise the rear end to the point that it isn't being supportted by the shocks (or sway brace, if so equipped). Disconnect the bracket supporting the brake line. Disconnect the fuel line, vent line, and return line. Don't panic, you will have some fuel spillage. Remove the cross bars completely. Disconnect the lower shocks, sway bar if equipped at the ends atteched to the lower body frame. Ensure the emergency brake is not on. Lower the rear end using the floor jack to the point you can remove the coil springs. I did this part myself, but I recommend someone assist you. Disconnect the tanks straps forward of the tank while someone or you place some type of support under the tank. The tank with what little fuel remains isn't very heavy. After the straps are disconnected, while supporting the tank, swing the straps to the rear of the car. Ok here comes the trick. Ensure the gas cap is removed and begin to rotate the forward part of the tank down at the same time slide the tank to the right. The only problem you may encounter is that you didn't lower the rearend down enough. But if you run into that problem lower it farther down using the floor jack that is still supporting the rearend. The key is remember to lift the car high enough so that you can lower the rearend far enough.

if your having a problem re-ataching the straps the tank isn't in the correct spot and usually creates a pain in the azz especially if your wokring on the ground. try to push it up as far as it goes and it will slide back twords the rear of the car another inch or two.

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1 disconnect (-) battery cable

2 remove door panel

3 remove speaker

4 unplug 'door open' warning switch

5 disconnect pigtail electrical connector for outside door lock illumination light (if u have that)

6 remove 2 retaining nuts for outside door handle and trim... lower the outside trim from door

7 unplug power door lock plunger and door handle illumination connector

8 remove 2 screws that hold the front door latch control and link to door

9 remove the three screws that hold the latch (on outside, around the v shaped cutout for pillar pin)

10 latch should come out by moving it forward and rotating the whole assembly out of the door

(goggomobil)

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Place a jack under tank to support the tank. Remove fuel tank straps. Slowly lower tank. When able to reach in, diconnect all electric lines and fuel lines. Continue to lower tank and remove.

Helpful hint, hope the tank is nearly empty.

Some additional info: If your suburban has the optional shield package, then you 1st must remove the fuel tank shield sitting underneath/around the tank bottom. There are 4 bolts that hold the front of the shroud and 3 or 4 that hold the rear. They thread into captive nuts inside the relevant frame members (they are long - about 6"). Once removed, drop the shround and now you can remove the straps etc.

Regards.

Please disconnect the negative terminal from the battery before you proceed with any of the above.

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in order to replace the "actuator switch" if you mean the soleniod you need to find the soleniod either on the passenger side firewall or on the passenger side inner fender, there is 2 bolts holding it , first disconnect the battery, then remove the wires from each side carefully remembering where they go, i like to wire tie them together to be sure. Then i remove the old soleniod and replace in with a new one. If it isn't the soleniod and your talking about the ignition cylinder, then you turn the key to acc. and push the lock pin in which is located on the underside of the steering column, once the pin is pushed in the cylinder should slide out, then insert the new cylinder.

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Replace the fuel pump relay. I had this problem also, before I replaced it I wanted to look at it, and when I did, there was mud stuffed into it, I assume it was from bee's that use mud for nesting. I cleaned the dirt out and my fuel pump problem went away

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You either have a bad connection or a abad sending unit. Check out the wire to the tank and connection at the sending unit . .

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32 Gallons, I believe. That's what mine has. Run it dry and then fill it full. Fords usually take a bit more than the listed capacity.

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their are two different speed sensors on that car the input speed sensor which is located inside the transmission and the transmission needs to be removed in order to replace it and the other speed sensor is the output speed sensor which is located directly above the passenger side trans-axle shaft. your input sensor is the sensor which tells the transmission when to shift and the output speed sensor tells the speedometer what it should display and both those parts are fairly cheap they are around 15-25 dollars but just remember if your input speed sensor is bad it is gonna cost you a minimum of 1000 dollars to have a mechanic fix it because of the fact that the transmission needs to be removed.

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The fusible links are all on the large terminal on the starter - The one the battery cable hooks to.

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The gas tank is under the vehicle below the rear seat. You can access the top of the tank and the fuel pump by simply removing the rear seat, which is held down by two clips, one on each end of the seat and a bolt located at the rear of the seat between it and the seat back. Remove the bolt and then pry up the seat at the front. You'll need to do this to disconnect the wiring even if you have to remove the tank because of a leak or other damage. For fuel pump removal and replacement, remove the wiring and disconnect the fuel line, and remove the attachment bolts from the tank cover and lift it out. The pump comes with it. Replace the pump and the cover gasket and put it back in. To remove the tank, disconnect the wiring and fuel line, lift the vehicle on jack stands or a hoist, disconnect the metal bands under the tank at one end and let it drop slowly. Its best to remove the tank when emply and with the cover plate on. Work only in a well ventilated area, NO SMOKING OR SPARKS! Do not use electric tools.

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My dad had the same problem. Check the fuses, especially if you have a remote.

Usually it is the switch, if there is a switch on other doors use those to see it the locks work until eventually you find the one that does not work.

i approve of these answers, very well said