If you included the kind of car you have,I could be more specific but all cars have a vacuum canister under the hood. some are round plastic and some are a tin can and most are black. There shuold be a vacuum line going from the intake to one end and a vacuum line out of the other that supplies vacuum to the interior of the car, There should be a one way valve in the canister or the line from the intake. This valve is not functioning and loosing vacuum in the resirvoir. If it is in the resirvoir which most are, replace the resirvoir.
most auto parts store carry manuels on most cars just find the one that is on your van and a diagram of how the belts go on will be in it. the books cost around 15 dollars to buy but some store will let you look at them.
If you can hear the power window motor "trying" to work, and you still can't get the window to roll up, the most likely cause is a bad window regulator. In some vehicles, the regulators are made from plastic and become brittle over time. I had the same problem with a 2002 jeep liberty and followed advice (see related links below for the reference) I found by googling on how the "repair/rig" the regulator to work again. As a worst case scenario, you may have to buy a replacement regulator. The good news is, it's not terribly difficult to replace, especially if your a do-it-yourself'er.
the speed senor is on the dirver side of the transmission tail shaft and there are 4 oxygen sensors and thay are on the exhaust by the transmission
just removed mine it is hiden behind the emegency brake pedel you must remove the left f tire then remove the wheel well liner at least the rear of the liner pull the liner forward the ecm is in the firewall 2 /11 mm nuts hold it in place one 10 mm bolt holds the conector also you can see it from under the hood far left side to the left of the main wiring conctor
Are you sure it has one? I do not think it does. Go here to make sure. Scrool down to cabin filters. http://www.fram.com/products/airFilters.php
check haynes manual "firing sequence" or "firing order"
Sometimes in damp climates where it is damp in the morning or after dark the vehicle will not start due to the spark plug wires being too old and the insulation is rotted and arcing. all the energy is dissipating before it gets to the cylinders. turn the lights off of check in low light conditions and have a buddy turn the car over you may be able to see the sparks dissipating on the engine from the wires. replace the wires with good 8mm insulated spark plug wires. good luck!
no,not as long as you haven't replaced a hose,line or any thing else that might let air in
You need a four pronged hub tool that you can rent at Kragen to remove the inner hub other than tha there is the Allen screws, a couple of spring clips and you should have it off.
Typically rotors come from the factory covered with a waxy material to prevent rust. Yes, it's a good idea to remove that material before using the brakes.
Bauer one 95
You need to determine what you're losing first. Is it spark? fuel? or compression? I would suspect the first 2. Lets eliminate fuel by getting it when it is cranking but not starting. (I am assuming you don't know if fuel is or is not the problem). Spray some starting fluid into the throttle bore for a few seconds, then go try and start it. If it starts, loss of fuel is your problem. Say it doesn't start, your down to probably loss of spark. Without seeing the chart for troubleshooting, I would suspect that the answer for testing the ECM is "Replace with known good part". Many times in that era, test procedures would lead to an ecm, but was not the problem. Typically, the control module was the answer. I am assuming you have a 3100 motor. I think you can check the resistance and compare it against a new one as far as the module goes. But I may be mistaken on that. Since you mention another problem of an intake leak, is it internal or external? Is the coolant low? The only way I see that as possibly being related is if the coolant had been drawn into the cylinders and caused hydrolic lock. But if it starts up after setting a short time, then I would disregard that. One note about intake leaks is that if it leaks internally, you oil will turn to a milkshake or coffee color. My 88 GP had a short in the thermostat in the radiator the dealer had to run a new ground wire from the computer to the thermostat to fix the problem. now the car runs but the tac buries itself.
Where can you find instructions for taking apart the hub to replace rotor on ford bronco xlt 1995
Be careful on this. I did it to myself . I install my transmission back on my 89 bronco and found out I didn't lock in the converter right and damage it. Cost me an extra $700 to repair the pump and new converter had the same systems as you.