I had the same problem and it is your oxygen sensor.
No it does not.
It means there is a problem in the emission system. Need to have engine scanned
with a engine scanner.
That depends on why you need to charge it, assuming the system had some type of repair done and working forward from there:
Charging a system requires you to understand the system; the low side cannot go below 35 F or the evap will freeze water and the system will fail - this is 'at engine rev' not idle. The pressures invovled are relative to temperature, the high side should NEVER go above 400, and it is normally offset by ambient temperature plus the difference of evap cooling.
Under federal law, I don't believe the lender has any obligation to contact you as soon as the borrower misses a payment. You need to ask the lender to do it, and get this in writing.
There is probably too much clearance between the rods and the crankshaft causing the motor to knock. If this is the case you need an overhaul job on the engine. The clicking sound is probably cause from using too low octane gas or your firing is set a little too high. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info answer knocking sound comes from worn bearings and parts in lower engine ticking comes from tappets, or more specifically the hydraulic lifters in engine ticking sound can also be a small exhaust manifold leak
R134a Advice: take your car to a profesional to have the a/c checked for leaks etc.
To best answer this is, which one is closer to breaking? The ball joint is probably the bigger problem, but I'd need to see it.
I am guessing you have a Cavalier or Sunfire? If so, you will probably need a control arm, bushing and ball joint come with it. And yes, it will make a clunk as you describe.
It can also be something completely unrelated to the suspension.
I've had such a noise in my car, 78 Benz 300CD. The fix was a loose header pipe coming off the exhause manifold. It had about 2 inches of sway when loose and would knock against the engine mounts.
Check for loose components which are routed near or though suspension parts. Some things are meant to be snug but free (ie exhause systems) to minimize noise, but make sure things aren't excessively free.
answer anything loose will cause the noise. but i would first check for worn or broken shock absorbers
Simple. There is a circular gasket for each spark plug between located between the valve cover and the engine. If they are not properly sealed, the oil from the top of engine will leak out of the valve cover and pool into the spark plug sockets. You must remove the oil BEFORE you remove the spark plugs. Anyway, the fix is purchase and install a new valve cover gasket and spark plug gaskets and use a gasket sealant.
If your original key fits into the replacement trunk lock cylinder, it can be rekeyed. The problem with doing this yourself is not having the right parts. An honest locksmith should be happy to do this for less than 30 dollars.
Good luck : )
2. In order to remove the back 2 coil packs there is a black tube called "Balance tube" remove that.
3. Remove the rest of the coil packs and connectors
4. Remove the spark plugs5. *** DO NOT GAP THE PLUGS ***THE PLUGS YOU ORDER FROM AUTOZONE OR ORIELYS OR YOUR MAJOR PARTS STORE ARE ALREADY PRE-GAPPED. THAT GOES FOR TURBO CARS TOO.
6. install the new plugs and place everything bag together making sure the vacuum hoses are both in tact. Disregard that last answer as it was extremely overly explained.
the cam shaft positioning sensor is where the distributor used to be. the cam turns the distributor.you probably dont have a distributor and now there is a cam position sensor in its place. assming you have distributerless ignition,and coil packs. if it has a distributor, the sensor is located under the rotor and is held by 2 screws, but in order to remove it, you have line up the the notch in the mounting plate for the rotor with the sensor or you wont be able to get it out, its a very tight fit.
There are 2 sensors. The main one is located in the exhaust manifold (facing you as you look at the engine from the front of the car). The secondary sensor is located behind the catalytic convertor, which is under the car, approximately beneath the front passenger seat. On some cars, somewhere around 1999, Toyota started using an air/fuel sensor instead of an oxygen sensor in at least one of these locations, so you need to be sure which one you have before replacing. They are not interchangeable.
The 95 neon's water pump is behind the timing belt cover on the left-hand side of the motor (if looking at it from the front). You will need a 3-jaw gear puller to remove the bottom main pulley. First thing you will have to do is jack the car up (I recommend putting jack stands underneath, then remove the jack), remove the passenger side front tire and then the splash-guard. Place a wood block on the jack and support the motor with it. Remove the motor mount (there is a small hole in the side of the fender-well through which you can remove the main bolt), After pulling the motor mount, remove the drive belts and the spark plugs so that you can find what is called "Top Dead Center" (or "TDC") in the #1 cylinder (the cylinder closest to you). But before doing that, you should first remove the bolt from the crank pulley (the big pulley you see closest to the bottom of the motor) so that you don't need to find TDC again after heaving on the bolt to loosen it. Use a long screwdriver to hold the pulley in place and loosen the bolt that holds the pulley on. You can remove the bolt, but do not yet remove the pulley since it is needed to find TDC. To find TDC, insert a long wooden rod into the head through the sparkplug hole; you should feel the rod hit the piston. Begin turning the crank pulley and be sure to only turn it clockwise. You should see the wood rod rise or fall (if it is not moving be sure that the rod is down past the threads for the spark plug). Keep turning until the wood rod rises, stops and then begins to fall. You will need to stop turning when the rod stops moving between the rise and fall; this is top-dead-center. Now you can remove the big pulley; you'll need the 3-jaw puller to remove it. There is a metal plate that the motor mount was connected to. Remove that by unscrewing the three 15mm bolts. You will need to raise the motor to pull the top two bolts out and lower the motor to remove the bottom one. Remove the bracket. On the bottom of the timing cover there are two 8mm bolts; remove these and remove the timing cover. Loosen the two 15mm bolts that hold the timing belt tensioner (it is a metal thing with a small spring loaded bar that has a hole in it on the top). You will need to put the tensioner in a vise and line up all 3 holes, then slide a small Allen wrench (or small nail, wire, etc.) through the holes to hold the bar down. Look, take note and remember how the timing belt is placed around the gears and pulleys, and then remove the belt. A good idea is to inspect the belt and the idler pulley (a smooth round pulley right next to the water pump; the water pump is on the left side of the pulley with the gears in it). If your idler pulley is plastic, it is a good idea to get a new one around 90,000; these things tend to just fall apart causing major motor damage. Now you can remove the water pump and install a new one. Once installed, be sure your timing marks are still lined up (small arrows on the crank gear, two lines on the cam gear). Install the timing belt, while making sure that any slack in the belt is on the side where the tensioner pulley is when placing, and meshing, the belt over the teeth of the gears. Place your tensioner, and bolt it on but not completely tight. Now pull the small Allen wrench, nail, wire, or etc. from the holes so as the tensioner can then make the belt taut or tight. Use a torque wrench and place it on the bolt in the smooth pulley, hold this at 250 in. pounds and tighten the tensioner. Replace everything else and you should be good to go.
While you are doing all of this, it is a good idea to go ahead and replace the o-ring on the water inlet tube located on the backside of the water pump housing that does to the bottom of the radiator. The tube is made of a plastic material so be careful with it once you extract the two mounting bolts. Use a good quality sealant when you put it all back together. The only place i could find an o-ring was at a dodge parts store, the generic stores won't even list it. I fought overheating problems for several months ,replacing everything and then finally replaced the faulty o-ring that cured my problem.
Also replace timing belt idler pulley and water pump at 100,000 miles.
Note: If your timing belt has broken be aware you may have some bent valves and would require a complete rebuilt or junk yard head.
Invest in a "Hanes Manual" for your Neon; My husband (who has no mechanical training) has changed our head gasket, water pump, alternator, starter and timing belts and other minor things using this book. You can get it for around $15 at any local auto parts store.
This will be in the center part of the passenger side of the motor right next to the wheel well. The serpentine belt has to drive the pump. on a 3.0 it is located on the passenger side of the car but it is behind the timing belt and is quite a job to replace if you are a dyi. Peter
175/70R14 is stock size for the stand neon
Car will run fine with either..
I use Champ spark plugs, had very bad experience with Autolite plugs. (Kept blowing injectors)
Upon looking it up in Haynes Repair Manual for Neon, the Spark Plug Gap should be 0.035 inches and the range is 0.033 to 0.038 inches.
The Manual says the type is Champion RC 9YC or equivalent, I use Neon NGK V-Power plugs. I have heard that any brand Platinum type plugs are bad for the Neon.
RC9YC are the original Champion plugs and the gap is @ .35" . The answer regarding platimum plugs is accurate from personal experience. Replace with Champion RC9YC as stated in the previous post and as listed on the underside of the 2000 Neon hood. I upgraded to platimum plugs, the car ran rough upon initial throttle to the point where it stalled at lights and upon starting to move. Went back to new original plugs and the car immediately ran perfect.
atleast it's safer than trying to extract it out of the tube when it's already been put in
The water pump it internal. Not inside the engine itself but it is spun using the timing belt. You need to remove all the acc. belts and the timing cover and the pass side motor mount. Its a pain in the butt but can be done if you have the right tools. Go to the library and access the all data and get a printout. It will give you step by step instructions on how to do it. I us the all data all the time. Its cheeper than buying manuals for all the cars I work on.
If it's anything like the water pump on the 95 it's not a pretty sight.
On the 95 I had to pull the passenger front wheel and remove the plastic to get to the engine.
Needed to remove the upper left motor mount. Remove the serpentine belt. I believe I removed the lower pulley (not easy) than the timing chain cover. The water pump was behind it and that took like 5 minutes to replace.
Unless your handy with tools and knowledgeable, I wouldn't tackle it by yourself.
The water pump is driven by the timing belt. The cooling system needs to be drained and the left engine mount needs to be removed (with a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan) so that the engine can be jacked up. All the belts need to be removed and the crankshaft pulley removed with an appropriate puller. The timing belt cover need to be removed along with the timing belt and timing belt tensioner, then the water pump can be accessed.
For a full description buy a chilton or hanes manual, also autozone.com has free access to this full procedure.
If you do not know anything about cars don't try this yourself as the engine is an interference design thus the valves (and possibly pistons) can be damaged if the timing is incorrectly set or if either the crankshaft or camshaft is moved by itself.
If replacing the water pump, also replace the timing belt and the tensioner while you have it apart, if the idler pulley (tensioner) ceases the timing belt will break causing severe engine damage so always replace the idler pulley.
not enough infobut e.f.i. cars and some late model carbs are equiped withidle contol moters. some times un pluging i.a.c. will helpduring power ballance test.if you are working on a lt1 or later model it is best tounplug the fuel injectors.
The same has happened with my 2000 Dodge Neon. Mine is a manual transmission 4 Door Sedan. A month ago my a/c stopped working and started blowing hot air. Strangely, if I move from vent to defrost and then back again the a/c sometimes comes back (mildly) for up to 15 minutes. It also seems to be effected by my accelerating, more acceleration more cool air for a little while. It always returns back to hot air, though. I had a mechanic check the fuses and the gas level (freon?) and they were fine. The mechanic theorized that the clutch compressor is broken. I called my dealership and they said they could test my A/C system for $135.00. When I said it might be the clutch compressor they offered to transfer me to their parts department. It is my understanding that if it is the clutch compressor it will cost 300-400 dollars. The sad thing is that this car only has 26k miles on it. Grrr, I say. PLEASE try a freon recharge first. I got that "failed compressor" theory from a mechanic, too. Mine was a hose that was leaking at the seam. Yours sounds like it needs a recharge. Get a kit from the auto parts store (about $15-20) and do it yourself-see what happens. Did anyone check the tension on the belt? If these are the original belts its possible the belt is getting loose or breaking down (more due to age rather than use).
The defrost setting also turns the compressor on in order to remove humidity from the air stream. By switching to defrost and back you are temporarily cooling the expansion coil. This would indicate that the compressor and clutch are working correctly. I would expect a bad dash panel switch.
Very simple! remove the ground wire, remove the three 10mm cap nuts on the top of the valve cover and plug wires,remove the valve cover! I recomend when you replace the gasket you put permitex on the four corners were the cam shaft sits, they tend to leak if you dont. Good Luck....Michael
there are 4 bolts not three
3 3/4 pounds
On the front of the engine block on the drivers side of the engine. Right below the valve covers.
Please provide more details this subject is far to broad to give all the reasons. Please clarify. , EzForJesus
The car ran fine driving to work, I left it in the parking lot for three hours, came out, tried starting it and about 30 seconds later the engine died. It will crank but won't turn over. Interior electrical is good, batt. is good. Also, it was very hot that day and the car was sitting in the sun.
1988-1994 Honda accord and civic have a defective main relay. they have bad solder joint and are temperature sensitive. it is located under dash upper left of steering column. it is marked "main relay" available after market(napa etc)Supplement to this answerThese relays are REALLY expensive, and quite often just pulling the card they're on (there are two of them on there--one powers the fuel pump, the other the fuel injectors), resoldering all the joints and reinstalling the card fixes the problem.
How to tell if the Main Relay is the problem: go somewhere real quiet. Open the driver's door and sit on the ground real close to the dashboard, so you can hear this thing--it's quiet. Get a helper to turn the key to "On." This is what you should hear, and why:
The instant you turn the key to "On"--one click. This is the fuel pump relay activating to pressurize the fuel system.
About three seconds later--one click. This is the fuel pump relay turning itself off. When the car's not running, the fuel pump shouldn't be either--if you got in a wreck you wouldn't want gas squirting all over the place.
When you turn the car to "Start"--one click. This is both relays kicking in, and they'll stay latched until you turn the car back off. Fuel pump on and fuel injectors on is the default condition for a running car.
If you hear all three clicks, the Main Relay is fine.ANSWERVAPOR LOCK! It happens all the time to older Hondas, especially in hot weather. Simply unscrew the gas cap, let the gas tank suck the fresh air in to equalize everything inside and allow the fuel to flow, put the cap back on and you're on your way.
remove intake manifoled to access back 3 plugs. time consuming but can be done
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