Yes, changing out the spark plugs on Toyota's tranverse mount V6 engines is tough. I have a 2002 Sienna which is similar to all models 2003 and prior. The front 3 plugs are easy. But the back 3 are really tough to reach.
2001 and prior Siennas only need the Denso platinum plugs PK20TR11 which I think are dual head plugs. But older Siennas can probably still benefit from pricier iridium plugs because they fire more consistently at lower voltage and can take higher temperatures than platinum. I did some research on the web, and folks are raving about Denso Iridium Power IK20s. They are a bit more than the NGKs, but on eBay, I found a set of 4 for just $33-buy-it-now in CA. So I bought 3 sets (12 plugs total).
Tools you'll need - a common 3/8 inch square rachet socket driver. The overall length must not exceed 8 inches inches long and mine is a cheap one from any store. But I would recommend that the rachet have a push button socket release and a fine tooth rachet that clicks every 15 degrees. Next, you need a med-long extension. The spark plug is deep in the tube and you'll need ideally, 5 3/4 inches and no more than 6 1/2 inches max. Of course you need a standard spark plug socket. Additionally, you'll need a 5mm Allen wrench. and lastly, a 10 mm closed-end crescent wrench. Length should be no longer than 7 inches.
Installation: pop the hood, and remove the plastic engine cover. I assume you know how to remove the front plugs. So I'll only focus on the rear plugs.
Start on the right side. Unclip some of the vacuum hoses and spread them out to the sides of the opening. You should see a hole that extends back underneath the air intake and next to the exhaust manifold. Reach back there with your arm. feel for a 1 inch square block and securing hex bolt. Using feel only, use the 10mm closed-end box wrench and loosen the securing nut. A hard counterclockwise tweak should break it loose, and about a half dozen more small loosening motions should loosen the bolt so you can switch out and use your fingers. Remove the bolt and place it away from the engine in a safe place. Lift the boot assembly out. Watch to make sure the rubber grommet doesn't slide off and fall in the oblivion never to be found.
WithOUT the rachet driver, get the socket and extension and slide down tube, then reach in with rachet and unscrew the spark plug. Remove the rachet, and lift extension and spark plug out. If your socket doesn't grip the spark plug, take it out, wrap the lip with a little masking tape). Installation is the reverse of removal.
Get a new spark plug. Slide it inside the spark plug socket and make sure it grips but not too tightly. The plugs are pre-gapped at the factory and have a plastic sleeve to protect the head. You must NOT allow the plug to drop down the tube because the impact could bend the tip and affect the gap or damage the plug.
There are two metal compression washers on the spark plug. There's no room for a torque wrench back there, so tighten the plugs down until the compression washers just begin to feel like bottoming out. Then twist another 30 deg. Do NOT slide the boot/coil assembly back over the spark plug yet. The first boot must remain out from its tube to allow the second boot room for removal.
The middle boot assembly is a bit harder. It's just like the first, but you need to disconnect the wire harness clip to each boot/ignition coil.. With a single hand, rock the boot assembly a little until it lifts up and off the plug about 1 inch. Then turn the boot assembly clockwise a little and use the technique you practiced to unclip the wiring harness from the boot assembly. There is only room for one hand in there. Be persistent and follow technique and practice. Eventually, you should be able to get the wire clip off.
Now the boot/coil should lift out easily. Then use the spark plug socket and reach back in there and slide the socket down the tube and then attach the rachet driver and remove the spark plug. Installation the reverse of removal. Again, be careful about dropping any parts down into the engine.
The 3rd boot is like the 2nd, because you need to disconnect the wiring clip, but it's different in that instead of reaching in from the right side, most of the extraction uses the opening from the left side.
My dealer claims this can take 2 hours of labour. I used simple tools and did all six myself in 1 hour 15 minutes making lots of little mistakes. If you follow these directions and have simple tools and do not exceed my dimension recommendations, you should be able to get in there and do this in under 45 minutes. Good luck.
For more information on this and related procedures please visit: http://www.siennaclub.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=12402
After posting my original answer to a question on a different forum, I've noticed how wiki.answers.com started posting this blog. So I thought I'd add comments here. Well, I had to change my plugs again... putting lots of miles on the Sienna. This time I did this in just 45 minutes! The one danger I'd advise here is the pulling of spark plug wires. I recommend that folks use plenty of spark plug lube on the heads to avoid sticking over time and easier removal the next time you gotta do this.
Another reader comments: If you remove the windshield wiper cowling and tray, things are easier (but not easy) to access. I was able to change the plugs on my 2002 Sienna without removing any hoses or anything, just a ground wire that was in the way. To do this:
1. The engine should be cold. Open hood. Remove caps at base of wipers, remove wiper nuts, and wriggle off the wipers.
2. With needlenose pliers, squeeze the plastic holddown thingies under the front rim of the wiper tray, while pulling up on the gasket that runs along the top (hood gasket). Start at one end and work across until the gasket is removed. Remove wiper cowling by pulling up and towards the front of the car. There were 2 plastic holddown thingies on the sides that I couldn't remove, they just broke off. Disconnect wiper washer hose at connector on passenger side, remove hose from clips in tray, and lift out both cowling pieces.
3. Undo bolts holding the wiper tray, but not the two bolts on the front of the tray near the air filter (these hold the wiper motor assembly to the bottom of the tray).
Don't set the bolts in the tray, they could roll down a drain hole into the engine compartment. Lift the tray as far as you can (it's heavier than you would expect).
Disconnect the wiper wiring connector and push the wiring cable harness thing out of it's hole. Now you can remove the tray.
4. Remove the fresh air intake duct (for the passenger compartment, not the engine) by removing 3 plastic nuts.
Now you can actually see and reach the rear part of your engine. Since the spark plugs are all under the intake manifold, you pretty much have to work by feel. You can reach under it from either side once you remove the ground wire attached to the intake manifold assembly on the passenger side. (It's pretty obvious which wire, because it's in your way). With the proper selection of socket extensions, and lots of patience, you can replace the spark plugs without removing anything else, except for that little plastic cover on top of the engine.
Open the glove box and remove all the contents. A rectangular cover at the back needs to be removed. Without putting your foot on the brake to start press the start button until the HVAC system works. Change the control from outside air to inside air. You will see a flap go up and down. The filter is behind this flap when the flap is up. Just pull it out to check it.
Trouble code P0420 means:Catalyst system efficiency below threshold
The Flying Bird
why does the transmission slip or shift hard on a gs Lexus 300 2001
No. They couldn't be more different. The ES 300 is a front drive, transversely mounted V6 engine, the GS 300 is a rear drive inline 6.
If your '02 Stratus has the same bolt pattern and your wheel wells have enough room to be able to turn fully. Only one way to find out. Do it!
The Stratus 4 door sedan and Stratus coupe are two different cars and share few if any parts. The wheels have different bolt circles. The sedan uses a 5x100mm wheel and the coupe uses a 5x114mm wheel. Not all Lexus's use the same bolt circle but most are 114mm. The center bore may be a problem, though. Check it before you buy anything.
The starter is on the passenger side of the engine right down near the bottom next to where the gearbox connects to the engine.
It stands for the size of the engine. It's a 3.5 liter v6. The is 250 is a 2.5 liter 4 cylinder
My wifes gs300 1993 window fell off the regulator. I am trying to get the panel off. I have found three screws along the bottom edge. One screw under a square cover near where you grab the door to close it. One screw in the duct that passes air to the vent on the door. There are some clips that pop out but the top of the door is still firmly attached. I can not conclude if the panel on the top detaches first. I have poped it loose a little but I probably broke some parts, at this time would not recommed trying to sepearte the top part of the panel from the lower. Hope to find out more. ed email@example.com
I don't have an answer for you, but I have a '94 GS300 and the trac light was coming on. I just got the 75K mile service done and they said the error code pointed to TPS and GPS (I think?). They changed both sensors. The light still comes on as follows: If I turn the key to accessories (where radio turns on) and wait a few seconds and then start the car, the TRAC light will stay on. If I turn the key all the way from off to start (without pausing at accessory position), the TRAC light does not come on. I am taking my car back today to have them look at it again. Please let me know if you get any new info also. Good luck.
ubderneath the dash of the driver and passenger side. it has two switches one on each side
I dont know about a 2000 but on my friends 1994 GS300 It is on top of the valvle cover on the left side (passenger) towars the firewall.
kjgrhgsdigbaguiiuageiugiuhgueeierughierhglkdfkjfdgkjbajg "four score and seven years ago" Bapabooey Bapabooey Howerd Stern's Penis
# Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds before performing any other work. # Remove the lower engine cover. # Drain the cooling system. # Remove the air cleaner duct. # Remove the lower (No. 2) fan shroud. # Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses from the radiator. # Disconnect and plug the automatic transmission lines. # Disconnect the reservoir tank inlet hose. # Detach the cooling fan motor connector and the coolant temperature switch wiring. # Remove the upper radiator supports and radiator. # Remove both lower supports. # Remove the electric fan and bracket, then remove the No. 1 fan shroud. If the radiator is to be serviced or replaced, remove the coolant temperature switch from the radiator. To install: # Install the coolant temperature switch if it was removed. Tighten it to 65 inch lbs. (8 Nm). # Install the No. 1 fan shroud to the radiator. # Install the electric fan and bracket. # Install the two lower supports to the radiator. Install the radiator with the two upper supports and torque the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
There are two fuse boxes located in the 1993 GS300...on the US Spec Gs300, 1 fuse box is located under the hood on the right area facing side. The other is located underneath the dash, above the brake pedal, on the driver side.
your probably asking about the fuse box that is hidding behing the panel next to your foot that curves down
On top of the cam cover is a removable plate. On some models it has VVTI 24V. It runs down the center of the cam cover. Underneath, after removal, will be 6 individual coils. Remove one coil to gain access to each individual spark plug. Do it one at a time to lessen the chance of dropping anything in the narrow sections.
I am sorry to be the bearer of bad news but to replace the starter you must remove the intake manifold since the starter is underneath the manifold. You had better know what you are doing for this job. I think it costs between $800 and $1500 to get this done. vbd
I removed the panel off my 1993 Lexus GS 300 and I imagine the 94 model is the same.... There are a couple of bolts holding the panel on to the frame of the door, as well as several rivet like mechanisms that pop into plastic holes in the frame of the door. The 2 main bolts holding the door are both buried and difficult to find. If you lift up the power window/lock mechanism out of the door with a screw driver/butter knife etc then you will find one of the bolts underneath this mechanism. The other bolt is covered by a small plastic insert (approx 1cm x 1cm) that pops out, and you will find the bolt deep beneath it but can access it with a screwdriver, this covered bolt is just beneath the the inside door handle towards the bottom of the door. After you get these two main bolts out you will also have to remove all the srews around the perimeter of the door and along the bottom on the inside. After this the only thing holding the panel in place is the rivet-like mechanisms that are also arranged all around the perimeter of the door.....to get these off you just have to pull hard on te panel and it will pop off....I wasn't sure how hard to pull because I was afraid of breaking it, but you do have to use a fair amount of force...just make sure that you have removed the bolts mentioned above and it should come off. It's fairly easy to put back together afterwards! Good luck.
Lexus GS 300 brake light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement brake light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement brake light bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for brake light bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).
If you want to look for Crest coupons, I would recommend going to a warehouse store such as BJs or checking your local newspaper every Sunday for coupons. BJs is a warehouse club that sells many different products in bulk and depending on what you purchase, it can be cheaper to buy in a pack of four compared to just one item. They often have coupons monthly for different products of toothpaste including Crest. If you decide to check your local paper, try to look for coupons on Sunday since many manufacturers will often place coupons in your local paper. If those two suggestions are unsuccessful, I would try either the Crest website directly or doing a regular Google search. If you go to the Crest webpage, there may be weekly or monthly specials on certain types toothpaste. Using Google, you can find many different websites that will allow you to print online coupons that you can use in your local store such as Target or Walmart.
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