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The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn?t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4?s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights).

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Toyota Motor Company

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It looks like Nico Evers-Swindell...

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I assume that you are wanting to know how to change the rear brake pads. First, loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts on the rear wheels. Second, put the rear end up on jacks so that the rear wheels are off the ground. Then remove the rear wheels. Then you are going to see the caliper. On the back of the caliper there is one bolt and a pin attaching the caliper to the main brake assembly. You can tell these from the other bolts because there is a rubber boot around them. Now, you are going to remove the bolt which is on the lower part of the caliper. Once that is removed, the whole caliper will pivot upwards exposing the brake pads (you may have to giggle it a little bit to break it free). The brake pads simply slide out and can be replaced with the new pads. You may have to pry the piston which is part of the caliper back in because you are inserting new brakes. A screwdriver or clamp is handy to help you do this. Now simply repeat these steps in reverse order and you have yourself a new set of brake pads. Good Luck!!

I assume that you are wanting to know how to change the rear brake pads. First, loosen but do not remove the lug nuts on the rear wheels. Second, you are going to need to put the rear end of the car on jacks and then remove the rear wheels. You are now going to be able to see the brake assembly. Locate the caliper (the piece that looks like it is clamped onto the rotor). The top of the caliper is held on by a pin and a bolt. You can tell these from other bolts because there is a rubber accordion-like boot surrounding them. Remove the bolt with the boot (on the lower part of the top of the caliper). Then giggle the top of the caliper and it should pivot upwards exposing the brake pads. The brake pads are held on by clamps so simply wiggle the pads to remove them. You can now insert your new pads in the same way that the old pads were situated. Next you are going to need to push the piston of the caliper back in so that there is room for your new pads. A screwdriver or clamp can help you achieve this. Now all you need to do is pivot the caliper back down, bolt it on, do the same to the other side, put on the wheels, lower the car, and you have yourself a new set of rear brakes. FYI, when you start the car, pump your brakes a few times so that the pistons are compressed once again against the brake pads. Good Luck!!

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Lexus is a division of Toyota

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The guy who played Prince William in the TV Movie - Nico Evers-Swindell

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Believe it or not, Interstate.

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how to replace 97 Lexus ES300 transmission

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I'm not sure what you mean by set. This is a difficult and complicated procedure. I'd check on lexusownersclub.com forums as I know there is detailed tutorials. vbdenny

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If your '02 Stratus has the same bolt pattern and your wheel wells have enough room to be able to turn fully. Only one way to find out. Do it!

The Stratus 4 door sedan and Stratus coupe are two different cars and share few if any parts. The wheels have different bolt circles. The sedan uses a 5x100mm wheel and the coupe uses a 5x114mm wheel. Not all Lexus's use the same bolt circle but most are 114mm. The center bore may be a problem, though. Check it before you buy anything.

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Yes, if the car was taken care of. Parts are more expensive but if it was maintained well the car will last for 150,000 to 250,000 miles without major repair.

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I don't know the cost of the sensor but it is just a mamtter of unplugging the old one, unscrewing it and installing the new one. GoodluckJoe

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Fix a moonroof first you need to know what's the defective part. In most cases the part that break the most is the SUNROOF MOTOR. I hope this will help you.

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Wow, what a chore you are about to get envolved with! You must remove almost all of your dash including the center. Next you will need to start removing the vents and other parts of your AC system under your dash. Your heater core is inside the front part of the blower box. First you must disconnect the hoses inside the engine compartment on the passenger side where they enter the fire wall. After you remove the entire black heater unit from under the dash you will be able to see the core just below the flap. You must carefully separate the blower box into its two halves to remove the core. The hardest parts are getting the new core back throught the fire wall (I enlarged one of the holes) and making sure your cables from you ac control are adjusted correctly. Sorry this is not a very technical discription.

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Changing any bulb on a Lexus is a challenge. The most difficult part is determining the exact process. The first time might take 2 hours while the second 20 minutes or less. While I have changed the headlight bulbs on my 90 LS400, I haven't on a ES300. My suggestion is to go to lexusownersclub.com and post a question in the ES300/330 forum. Someone there will know and help you as it is the best Lexus forum available. You might also try lextreme.com as he is alos really good. VBDENNY

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it is a transmission part

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Use a screwdriver with tape over the tip to release the clip under the bottom of the wood trim bezel. Pull out and detach the wiring harness. The switch has a printed circuit board inside. Turn the unit face down if you want to open it up and see the "innards." Remove the 3 larger screws and the top/bottom will then come apart. Remove the 4 smaller screws to access the circuit board. Be careful to not dump out the plastic pistons (look like stubby nails) since they have nothing to hold them in if you tip the button portion over. I switched some of the pistons around to see if that would help my passenger front window ops. Now, it will go down but not up unless you run it all the way down first. Better than "fighting" with it for 10 minutes to get it back up.

Used switches are probably the way to go since a new one from a Lexus dealer is $850 to $900. Add labor and the usual ridiculous shop and paperwork fees, and sales tax, and the Lexus dealer in Davenport, Iowa would have the bill over $1,000. You can likely find a used one for $150 to $250. Just make sure you get a guarantee with it.

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THAT MEANS THAT THE WINDOW IS NOT INITALIZED AND TO DO THAT YOU NEED HOLD THE WINDOW SWITCH ALL THE WAY UP AND HOLD IT THERE FOR A FEW SECONDS THEN PUT THE WINDOW DOWN AND HOLD THE SWITCH DOWN FOR A COUPLE SECONDS AND THEN IT SHOULD BE OK

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I had this same problem and it took about an hour to find it. i have a 1994 Lexus es 300, i hope yours is around there . the engine is turned in a weird position but lets just say the part by you front bumper is the front. look under the exhaust manafold in the front and there shoudl be the oil filter right there. It was a pain to get off, we ended up using wide channel locks to take it off. but that dammaged it badly. so when putting the new one on just screw in and then your just going to have to tighten little by little with a oil filter tool. if you don't like that just take the exhaust manafodl off and you can just reach right in.

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There is a fuel pump relay (or circuit opening relay) attached to the ECU (engine computer) located behind the dash.

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Assuming you mean headlight bulb, you can get them at many places. See sources and related links below for a very simple and fast solution.