The fuel neck? its about 150 dollars brand new. or it could be the rubber hose that connects it to the fuel tank. which would be only a few dollars.
R134a Advice: take your car to a profesional to have the a/c checked for leaks etc.
The 95 neon's water pump is behind the timing belt cover on the left-hand side of the motor (if looking at it from the front). You will need a 3-jaw gear puller to remove the bottom main pulley. First thing you will have to do is jack the car up (I recommend putting jack stands underneath, then remove the jack), remove the passenger side front tire and then the splash-guard. Place a wood block on the jack and support the motor with it. Remove the motor mount (there is a small hole in the side of the fender-well through which you can remove the main bolt), After pulling the motor mount, remove the drive belts and the spark plugs so that you can find what is called "Top Dead Center" (or "TDC") in the #1 cylinder (the cylinder closest to you). But before doing that, you should first remove the bolt from the crank pulley (the big pulley you see closest to the bottom of the motor) so that you don't need to find TDC again after heaving on the bolt to loosen it. Use a long screwdriver to hold the pulley in place and loosen the bolt that holds the pulley on. You can remove the bolt, but do not yet remove the pulley since it is needed to find TDC. To find TDC, insert a long wooden rod into the head through the sparkplug hole; you should feel the rod hit the piston. Begin turning the crank pulley and be sure to only turn it clockwise. You should see the wood rod rise or fall (if it is not moving be sure that the rod is down past the threads for the spark plug). Keep turning until the wood rod rises, stops and then begins to fall. You will need to stop turning when the rod stops moving between the rise and fall; this is top-dead-center. Now you can remove the big pulley; you'll need the 3-jaw puller to remove it. There is a metal plate that the motor mount was connected to. Remove that by unscrewing the three 15mm bolts. You will need to raise the motor to pull the top two bolts out and lower the motor to remove the bottom one. Remove the bracket. On the bottom of the timing cover there are two 8mm bolts; remove these and remove the timing cover. Loosen the two 15mm bolts that hold the timing belt tensioner (it is a metal thing with a small spring loaded bar that has a hole in it on the top). You will need to put the tensioner in a vise and line up all 3 holes, then slide a small Allen wrench (or small nail, wire, etc.) through the holes to hold the bar down. Look, take note and remember how the timing belt is placed around the gears and pulleys, and then remove the belt. A good idea is to inspect the belt and the idler pulley (a smooth round pulley right next to the water pump; the water pump is on the left side of the pulley with the gears in it). If your idler pulley is plastic, it is a good idea to get a new one around 90,000; these things tend to just fall apart causing major motor damage. Now you can remove the water pump and install a new one. Once installed, be sure your timing marks are still lined up (small arrows on the crank gear, two lines on the cam gear). Install the timing belt, while making sure that any slack in the belt is on the side where the tensioner pulley is when placing, and meshing, the belt over the teeth of the gears. Place your tensioner, and bolt it on but not completely tight. Now pull the small Allen wrench, nail, wire, or etc. from the holes so as the tensioner can then make the belt taut or tight. Use a torque wrench and place it on the bolt in the smooth pulley, hold this at 250 in. pounds and tighten the tensioner. Replace everything else and you should be good to go.
While you are doing all of this, it is a good idea to go ahead and replace the o-ring on the water inlet tube located on the backside of the water pump housing that does to the bottom of the radiator. The tube is made of a plastic material so be careful with it once you extract the two mounting bolts. Use a good quality sealant when you put it all back together. The only place i could find an o-ring was at a dodge parts store, the generic stores won't even list it. I fought overheating problems for several months ,replacing everything and then finally replaced the faulty o-ring that cured my problem.
Also replace timing belt idler pulley and water pump at 100,000 miles.
Note: If your timing belt has broken be aware you may have some bent valves and would require a complete rebuilt or junk yard head.
Invest in a "Hanes Manual" for your Neon; My husband (who has no mechanical training) has changed our head gasket, water pump, alternator, starter and timing belts and other minor things using this book. You can get it for around $15 at any local auto parts store.
its possible that the lock cylinder is broken. if you cant turn your key that's what it is. its around $20 to replace. make sure you get keys to go with the cylinder.
...I have since found out that I need a new compressor. The replacement will cost about $700.00. The repairman also told me that Dodge knew there was a problem with the compressors going out on Neons and even sent them an alert about it. Since this is not something that can cause an accident they did not do a recall. This happened two months after my extended warranty expired.
A: The same thing happened with my 1998 Dodge Neon while I was on vacation in the middle of summer, and all it needed was freon added. The bill came to $60, so it might be a good idea to check this before shelling out $700 for a compressor.
A: Maybe a rock or something put a hole in your condensor and you lost all your refrigerant. Check to see if you have any pressure in the system. Is your switch working on your dash??? Are any fuses burnt? Good luck!
A: I would check the freon first, a shop will always try the hardest thing on you. You may want to check for leaks if you recharged it and it loses coldness rapidly. Look for oily type stains on and around the a/c hoses and canister. This happened to me, a hose was leaking at the seam. It was much cheaper than what the shop wanted to charge me for my "failed compressor".
A: The electrical connection on the compressor was defective on my Neon. It was a quick and easy home repair.
A: All vehicles slowly lose their Freon (usually about 5 years)and need to be "topped-up" Besides Freon, the system also has a thin oil in it (a cousin of brake fluid).If your system has a real leak in it,a damp stain of this oil should be visible around the leak....and that is the part/gasket/seal that needs replacing.(Freon leaks faster than oil).Compressors leak at the pulley or if worn-out,clatter loudly.
For those electrically inclined, the a/c switch runs through a low pressure sensor located on the top passenger side of the firewall. This circuit continues (blue wire w/white stripe) to the high pressure sensor located on the top right of the compressor. The circuit continues to the ECU (brown w/yellow stripe). Once the ECU receives this signal, the ECU will engage the a/c clutch. If you're a/c turns on for a few seconds and then back off, what is happening is that, while the compressor is on, the pressure decreases on the low pressure side and rises on the high pressure side. If the pressure goes too low the circuit will open at the low pressure sensor and the ECU will disengage the a/c clutch. The pressure will then level out. This will cause the low pressure sensor to reconnect the circuit and the ECU will turn the a/c clutch back on. This process keeps repeating. If this is the case, add Freon. (test pressure first with a Freon gun!!!) 21.99 at schucks, get the one with the gauge. Freon is 8.99 per can. Just as the low pressure can turn off the system too much pressure will do the same thing. In this case let out some pressure on the low pressure valve by applying pressure with a screw driver. This valve has a black cap and is located next to the window washer fluid fill port. It is an in-line t connector quick release valve. Not the high pressure valve located on the 134a reservoir just under the window washer fluid fill port. Another thing to check is that the blue wire w/white stripe and the brown wire w/yellow stripe run together in a black loom on the inside of the core support along the bottom of the core support. If this loom hangs down it will wear through these wires while going over speed bumps and such. This would cause a break in the a/c circuit and the a/c clutch will not come on at all (Commonly misconceived as a bad compressor). Solder these back together with spare wire and tape them back up in the loom. Zip tie it up real good so it doesn't happen again. Good Luck!!
A special tool is required (not expensive available at Sears or auto parts) because piston is threaded to operate the emergency brake
Jack the car up at that corner, grap the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and move it back and forth. This sounds like a tie rod problem. Spin the wheel and check for a bulge in the tire such as a shifted belt. maybe the tire is warped. it will cause the tire and steering wheel to shake. I'd get the wheel balanced ... have a quick look and see if any of the little metal things that are used in balancing are obviously missing/have fallen off etc. You should see a mark on the wheel rim where the little lead weight used to be. Not likely tire balance, that is typical of higher speed vibration. Grab the tire 12 and 6 o'clock check to see if you have play ! this is easier of coarse when the tire is in the air , it could be that your lock nut has back off on the spidle of the half shat , or your bearings in the hub are going out ! be carefull driving this neon !!! Good Luck ! I forgot one thing also check you tie rods to your rack and pinion ! Again Good Luck !
codes and description of trouble are as follows:
11- Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value; Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12- Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13- No change in manifold absolute pressure (MAP) from start to run
14- Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor voltage out of range
15- No vehicle speed sensor signal
17- Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21- 02 sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or downstream
22- Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23- Intake air temp sensor out of range
24- Throttle position sensor (TPS) out of range, or disagrees with MAP
25- Idle air control motor circuits problem, target idle not reached(+/- 200), vacuum leak found
27- Injector control circuit problem
31- Evaporator purge flow monitor failure or evaporator solenoid circuit problem
32- Exhaust gas recirculating (EGR) system failure or solenoid circuit problem
33- A/C clutch relay circuit problem
34- Speed control solenoid circuits problem
35- Radiator fan control relay circuit problem
37- Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit or park/neutral switch failure
41- Generator field not switching properly
42- Fuel pump relay control circuit problem Auto shutdown (ASD) relay control circuit problem No ASD relay output voltage at PCM Fuel level sending unit - volts out of range Fuel level sending unit - no change over miles
43- Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44- Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46- Charging system voltage too high
47- Charging system voltage too low
51- Fuel system lean
52- Fuel system rich
53- Internal controller failure
54- No cam signal at PCM
55- End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62- PCM failure - SRI mile not stored
63- PCM failure - EEPROM write denied
64- Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65- Power steering switch failure
ALWAYS tow a front wheel drive car ON THE BACK WHEELS! If you can't, use a flatbed. Your transmission doesn't circulate fluid when the engine's not running. You likely just seized the planetary gears.
Changing the alternator on a 1996 Dodge Neon? First buy a repair book like a Haynes or Chiltons it will be worth the expense. Next brush up on your four letter words because this is not an easy job. Make sure there are no small children within earshot. Raise the vehicle so you can get under it. Remove the battery hook ups. Under the car remove the plastic splash guard (3 bolts, 1 plastic snap clip). Spray all bolts with a penetrant and let soak in. Remove the two electrical hook ups from the alternator. Loosen the adjustment bolt (back side top) of the alternator and remove the belt. Remove the lower and upper mounting bolts. Remove the 3 pivot mounting bracket bolts and the mounting bracket. You may have to tug and shimmy the alternator loose. It is very hard to see where some of the bolts are and even harder to get a wrench on some of them.
Remove the neg. battery cable then the wires from the altermator. Then remove the belt and the mounting bolts and then the altermator.
Take the passenger side wheel off and do your work from under the car,make sure you jack it up high and use jackstands for safety,it only took me 30 minutes and no four letter words...jeffbone
The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.
when you open your driver's door, there should be a plastic panel on the side of the dash. inside this panel you will find your fuses.
i reccommend buying a haines guide, it answers every question about your car you will ever have, complete with picutres and step-by-step walkthroughs--a good investment for anyone who would like to protest the longevity of their car.
There is also another fuse panel behind your battery. It contains the higher amp fuses for your starter headlights tail lamps etc. There are relays here also. Would help to know whats not working.
On a 1995 to 2000 it is the silver cylinder in front of the tank on the right side.
On a 2001-2005 it is part of the fuel pump module and is not serviceable.
Under the hood there is a 20 amp fuse, in the P/Out slot. I had the same problem and this is what solved it.
Had the same problem with the Dodge Intrepid. Fuse is in the box under the hood(!) (not in the in-side fuse panel).
check for loose change in the outlet, a lighter will blow the fuse, as well as a bad cell charger/radar detector cord. Open hood, remove "fuse box cover" and look for acc or some such fuse.
This happened to me, i think the fuse was under the hood and it was called int. something
2002 Dodge Neon Power Outlet Fuse is located in the power distribution center under the hood and next to the battery. Inside the cover of that box is a diagram showing location. I think it is the third from the fender.
I am having my water pump replaced as we speak on my 2001 Dodge Neon. From what I under stand you have to remove the radiator and cooling fan the water pump is located under the timing belt which of course you will have to replace as well. If you are able to do the work your self your looking at about $250-350 of your going to have a shop do the work for you your looking at $700-$1200 dollarsAnswerIf a Dodge is anything like a Plymouth (which I believe they are) you would be horribly mistaken. YOU DO NOT need to at all in any circumstance need to remove the rad or the fan, you just need to drain the rad first. Mine is a 1997, and I replaced the water pump myself. The pump cost about $90cnd. you don't have to replace the timing belt if it is in good condition although I would recommend it. First you must remove the passenger side front wheel, and the splash guard. Then you must take of the accesory drive belts. The one on the alternator, and the one on the powersteering/air conditioner. Then you must take off the timing belt cover, mark your timing, remove the tensioner and the belt the camshaft gears the idler pulley and the crank shaft dampner. Then the rear timing belt cover comes off and you can access the water pump. Install the new pump and reassemble. Make sure the crank dampner and the camshaft sprokets are seated ALL THE WAY BACK, (or you'll cause yourself all kinds of problems.) When the timing belt goes back on make sure you line up the timing correctly, you can't start the engine till it is all back together and if your timing is out it won't run right or might not even start. I would not recommend taking on this job if you don't have the slightest clue of what you are doing as there is a lot to go wrong (timing is set correctly can screw up your engine), and do attempt it if you don't intend spending alot (like 10hrs) of time on it to do it right.
check the coolant mix should be 50/50 if you do not have 50/50 coolant and water it could cause problems also take a hose and clean the radiator of anything that may be blocking the flow of air through the radiator if this does not work see if the fans are running if they are then take the car to a mechanic and ask them to pressure test the head shord only cost about $20. ALSO it might be our head gasket. mine did that too When the A/C is on the engine has more of a load on it due to it have to now also turn the a/c compressor, since the engine is working harder with the a/c on it will overheat faster
Since There is no tensioner pulley you have to loosen your alternator.
There have been many rumors about fuel filter locations etc... on the plastic tank neons. I own a 1997 currently and have owned tons of first generation Neons 1995-1999. The fuel filter is part of the fuel pressure regulator and is locating to the passenger side of the fuel tank. It is easily accessible. The part you'll be searching for on your car and at the local parts store is small the canister is like the size of a baby food jar and it also has an electrical pig tail attached and the fuel is supplied with one hose in and one house out (return-less fuel system). I think part of what people get confused about is that there is a filter of sorts installed in the tank at the end of the fuel pump p pickup tube but this is just a pre-filter just keeps larger particles from getting lodged in the expensive pump assembly 250-300 bucks. The fuel system on this car keeps the fuel rail charged with aprox. 45 PSI of fuel at all running conditions and adjusts fuel delivery for the engine by shortening or lengthening the injector duty cycle (how long the injector is open) Its actually a pretty good system and makes fuel system diagnosis easier because the fuel pressure should always stay at the 45 psi regardless of engine load or RPM. clear things up.AnswerDear Neon Owner, i am responding to your question because i myself have a '97 noen. Here is the problem, the fuel filter for your car is said not to exist. for some reason the makers of the car decided that they would do away with the change-able fuel filter and just have a fuel filter / pressure regulator in-one. this is located on the inside of the tank and does not need to be changed on a regular basis (unless of course work is being done involving the removal of the gas tank).
the funny thing is, on the 1995 neon i had before, the filter was located right under the gas tank. Under the rear passenger side of the car the fuel filter was covered be a little metal shield that had to be removed before accesing the filter. what I'm finding interesting on my 97 neon is that i have something that looks identical to a fuel filter exactly where the fuel filter should be on my 95 neon but it's on my 97. it theoretically isn't supposed to be there, but it is. i have gone to lots of places and i can't get anyone to tell me what the hell is going on and I'm afraid to remove it because if it isn't the fuel filter that miraculously showed up, what the hell is it and why is it there?
Struggling with this too. Chilton say on 95's the filter is attached with three lines to the tank. On 96-99, that became the accumulator (to keep pressure in the system after shutoff). The filter and regulator snaps into the fuel pump which is integral to the gas tank.AnswerThe Changeable Fuel Filter are on some 1997 models. If you have a metal gas tank then you have a changeable Fuel Filter. AnswerI looked into the same thing today, I went to the auto parts store looked at a repair book that shows how to fix neons 95-99, and there it showed it outside of the tank, the guy that was working at the auto parts showed me it and I looked underneath my car and was on the outside. It was $20.00 for the filter. I decided that I will take mine to a garage since I am not mechanical. In the book there was 11 steps on how to put the fuel pump on. Answerautozone says its here...UNDER VEHICLE, CENTER, BELOW SEATING AREA, MOUNTED ON TOP OF FUEL TANK, IN FUEL PUMP MODULE Which also means that it's serviced by replacing the fuel pressure regulator. Which can be seen at this link here (yours is the same as 1996-1999)http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/AZ/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/91/21/0900823d80199121.jsp I tried to post a small picture that says it all but couldn't . By the way my fuel filter lasted from 96 until 04 when the pump finally called it quits. AnswerI could explain it myself, but I found this on another forum and it pretty much says it all...
"...the ï¿½FILTER, Fuel Pressure Regulatorï¿½ is mounted on the mounting flange of the fuel pump on the external side. The incorrect diagram will lead the parts counter personnel to tell you that you have to remove the fuel pump to change the filter and/or they will try to give you #2. Despite what they tell you, tell them you want Part # 4546610. If they insist it wonï¿½t work, just have them pull a new fuel pump from the shelf, and look at it, they will find Part #4546610 mounted on the exterior of the mounting flange of the pump.
And changing the Fuel Filter/Pressure Regulator is as simple as pulling the fuel line w/ the quick disconnects and then pressing in the spring tab and turning as you pull it out.
The only difficulty I encountered changing this Filter/Pressure Regulator has been the tight space it is in, it would be a 2 minute job if your hand fit into the area easily, instead itï¿½s a 20 minute job as you struggle to apply enough pressure on the quick disconnects and tabs with so little space to squeeze your hands into.
How often should you change the fuel filters on a vehicle? That is a debate that there is no correct answer. Most would disagree with the Chrysler recommendation that it will last the life of the vehicle, or at least the life of the fuel pump, which you do get both filters brand new with a new fuel pump. On the other hand, if you wait until the filter clogs, youï¿½ll be buying a new fuel pump with that new fuel filter.
Filters usually clog when you get foreign substance and particles in the gas tank, or if you put poor quality gas in the tank; so if you never have that happen a filter may last for the life of the vehicle. You could have a brand new filter clog from one tank of bad gas, or driving thru a dust bowl when after forgetting to tighten down your gas cap.
Unless you get symptoms of a clogged fuel filter, which many people jump to conclusions that their fuel filter is clogged when they get fuel system problems and its not, I personally would change the filter every 50k miles.
The sock filter, in the tank, this is very difficult to change, as well, itï¿½s a very rough filter to only filter out large particles letting most small stuff pass thru for the finer filter after the pump to catch. Most people only change this filter with the fuel pump and never experience any problem with this change interval, it rarely clogs and effects the performance of the vehicle." -From other forum
After Dealing with this for the past few days, I have some answers to help virtually any question concerning the pump/filter/diagnosing. I hope this help and save you the hours and hours I have into proving people wrong about this thing:
Here is how to easily test the filter without actually doing a volume test on the fuel system. Turn the key to the on position a bunch of times activating the pump each time to make sure the lines are primed. Then release the pressure via the SCHRADER VALVE located on the fuel rail. Then hook up a pressure tester. When you turn the key on, the pressure should immediately jump to 50psi or so. If it takes longer than 1/10 or so of a second to build pressure, there is a restriction, or in other words your filter is clogged. If you let it go, you will burn up the pump. If you find that you have to turn the car over for 15 seconds for it to start and the test shows a clogged filter, it is because the check valve in the pump is bad from excessive pressure, and the pump will be lucky to make it another 6-months to a year depending on the gas you use/climate, etc. unless you remove the restriction. Simply cut the line in front of the regulator/filter and put a check valve inline. Make sure you use high pressure hose clamps and ribbed nipples on the valve, or the pressure will blow the line off. The part numbers for the regulator/filter are: NAPA-Echlin #CRB 219781 Oreilly's/Advance:BWD #24026 Auto Zone:Gp-Sorensen #800-438 Auto Value/Bumper to Bumper:Parts Master #GF9200. The tab that you push in to turn the filter before you pull it out is on the top, feel up the top of the filter and you will find it immediately. Just push it tight to the filter and turn, I had to use channel locks on mine to break it free. If you have to reuse the fat 2" fabric looking seal that goes between the filter and the tank, make sure you give it plenty of time to dry out before putting it back in, as it swells when wet-that is how it seals. When it dries it shrinks and will fit very nicely. ONe last thing-If you are not sure if you will be replacing this $50 part, be very careful when pulling the line off the filter. The weld broke on the seam of the nipple on mine, and it is stainless and full of fuel so there is no way to patch it up. J-B weld chips right off with your fingernail when dry. If you get ballsy and try to braze/solder it, DO NOT HEAT WHEN EMPTY/AFTER BEING DRAINED. Make darn sure it is AT LEAST 3/4 full, as the vapors are what explode: An empty tank is GUARANTEED to explode from excessive heat, where a full tank will not if the pressure can escape. A 1:6 fuel/oxygen ratio is required for ignition.
the fuel filter in the 98 neon is located on the pump in the tank it is not serviceable so to replace the filter you have to change the fuel pump just did mine 2 weeks ago it takes about and hour you have to drop the tank after that it is pretty easy to figure out
Located under the heater plumbing on the front corner of the cylinder head. 3/4" spanner, careful with that plastic plug OK.
Check the wires to the speed sensor and the sensor itself.
Resolder connections on instrument panel.
My 96 Neon's speedometer, temp and fuel gauges were intermittent. Had taken the instrument cluster apart a couple times, nothing obvious. Saw an online posting somewhere about cold solder joints on the circuit board where the gauges plug in. Took the cluster apart again, hit all those sockets with my soldering iron, applying ample fresh solder. Put it back together and haven't had a problem since. That was almost a year ago. If you're not comfortable with a soldering iron and circuit boards, find a friend who is.
If this is good, then check for oil based fluid on the computer module plugs. Racked my brains on this one. Traced all wiring for sensor, started to replace the speed sensor, but when comparing replacement sensor with original one, noticed these sensors have high resistive circuitry and my original was fine. Put original sensor back on car and traced cabling back to computer module. Have to remove the entire computer module to fully unplug those two 60 pin plugs. Upon removing the plug closes to the outside wall, found an oily base fluid inside. Cleaned out fluid with a little bit of engine cleaner spray and blew it dry with compressor. Speedometer works great now. Called local Dodge dealer to ask if computer module contain any fluid inside, they stated no. I initially thought some mechanic had sabotaged by putting fluid in this plug, however approximately 6 months later intermittent speedometer started up again. Remove this plug and sure enough, more fluid. I am starting to think the local Dodge dealer did not know what he was talking about. Cleaned up a second time......speedometer is working perfect once again. When fluid builds up in this plug, it becomes conductive across the speedometers high resistive circuitry.
Hold in the clutch, put it in neutral and turn the key.
u may also want to hold in the brake if ur close to several cars
5 quarts for the auto transmission. However, if you have a high mileage transmission, +75,000 miles, then use an additive such as Lucas in place of a quart.
Plugged air/fuel filter?
Plugged catalytic converter?
When the vehicle is slowing to a stop without your foot on the brake (your going very slow) and you notice it's not gradual/linear and stops quicker than if it was just rolling, your caliper could be siezing up, take it back and get a new one. Or the pads may have been installed backwards, upsidedown, inside out ;) or you have the wrong caliper, bleeder screw should be on top, you bled it right? Or you're riding the brakes to much ;) If all that fails then it's your master cylinder causing you grief.
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