• 
• 1 answer

A bad idle is caused by a problem with fuel or spark these are two different systems, both with multiple components. Let�s look at Spark first. When was the last time the ignition components were serviced? I don�t think tat you need an electrical service (commonly referred t as a tune up) the idle would be consistently poor. So let�s look at the Fuel side of the equation. There are a few things that can affect the air fuel ratio like carbon, and varnish. I would try to clean a few things up before wasting money on a fuel pressure regulator and especially on an idle air control valve. I recommend that you First check a plug to see its condition (only one if one is bad well you can figure the rest out) if the plug looks good move on: 1) Injection clean 2) throttle body and induction system clean 3) Carbon chemical clean More likely than not you have a carbon build up problem this causes a fuel soak condition that causes a hard start and a rough idle until the fuel burns off. Of course someone may tell you that you have a burnt valve but again this would cause a consistently poor running engine.

It sounds like fuel related. Depending on the year it could be a choke or the cold start sel. Does it smoke? What color smoke? Black would indicate rich mixture of fuel. Or it can be running to lean until it warms up.

• 
• 1 answer

No ,only translucent, the chopped fibres of glass scatter the light preventing optical clarity.

• 
• 1 answer

rock auto has the cheapest parts and all are name brand.

• 
• 1 answer

It can refer to both the inside and outside of a door panel, but more often than not it refers to the outside door adhesive moldings.

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

Check eBay and you should able to see a picture of one. I'm not a bodyman, but I believe a clip consists of the two front fenders, grill and hood.

A Front Clip consists of the complete body parts from the front: radiator support, front fenders, hood, and bumper, spoilers, lights etc. The complete front assembly

A front clip is every thing from the firewall forward

• 
• 1 answer

Assuming you mean in a convertible, I used the Iron on patches on the inside of the top. (like the ones Mom used to fix the knees in my jeans) Holds up and works great.

• 
• 1 answer

Your coffee holder isn't holding your coffee? :-) If it doesn't smell like antifreeze (heatercore leak) then I would be suspect of a plugged drainhole in the wiper transmission cowl area. This time of year leaves will plug it up and water flows in through the firewall area. It would also be good to look behind the glovebox area to see if a harness or hose that may pass through the firewall isn't caulked well enough. Some other suggestions: * I had a car that had a deer run into the driver's door while we were going down the highway. The body shop fixed the door where by looking you couldn't tell it had been hit. But every time it rained the car would get wet inside. They did a bad job aligning the door and it didn't press the door seal tight enough to keep it from leaking. So if the car has been wrecked before you bought it or since you had it your door may not be aligned right or possibly an old door seal. * Could be a leak from a bad windshield seal. Wonder if it could even be condensation leakage from your air conditioner too. * I would say the drain tube on the air conditioner condenser is plugged.in my 2000 grand prix it has plugged with grime several times, causing it to flow into the passenger side floor right under the blower motor. find the tube under the car and blow into it with an air compressor. this will unplugg it.the tube should be right under the condenser in your engine bay. * Check the heater core, and pray that isn't the problem. * When asked to repair a waterleak I like some history on the car. Most waterleaks on used cars are the result of some sort of repair. What has been fixed on your car? If you have a sunroof/moonroof, the drain holes can be clogged. If you have trees or other debris that falls on the car, this is a big problem. The drains should be cleaned a couple times a year. This debris also clogs the drains in the cowl in front of the windshield, causing water to come in the fresh air vent in the heating-air system. This usually causes a leak on just the passenger side.

• 
• 1 answer

W-d 40 On A Rag, It Works On My Leather Jackets. Test In A Non-Visible Spot First In Case Of Color Change.

WD-40 Didn't Work For Me, Nor Did Leather Cleaner.

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Is Sold At Grocery Stores. It Is A Amazing Product.

:

Magic Eraser Did Not Work Very Well In My Case.

:

Have You Tried Hair Spray? (I Have A Four Year Old)

====

• 
• 1 answer

Your going to need several to remove the front and back seats plus the console to change out the carpeting.

To remove the front seats is easy:

Look under the seats and disconnect the weight sensor/seatbelt sensor/heated seat hookup if it's there.

Slide the seat all the way forward, and using a flathead screwdriver pop up the plastic covers on the back of the seat on the floor. From there use a wrench of some kind to remove both bolts holding the seat down, then just lift up and tilt forward to remove the seat.

To remove the back seat:

Pop the trunk and pull the seat releases on the top of the trunk. Pull the seatbacks down and use a flathead screwdriver to push the outer latches of the seats off while lifting up on the ends and the seats will pop out. In order to get the seat. Look toward the black rail in the back and you should see a small metal wire under the black rail. Just push down really hard and pull back and the it should pop out. Do the same to the other side, and then just ease the seat out of the spot.

To remove the center console:

Twist the base of the shift knob until it comes off the shift ball. Pull on the shift ball to remove it. In the front of the shift boot there is a tab you can squeeze back to lift up and remove the boot. Pull the ebrake up and put a screwdriver in the tabbie to let the cover off that. Pull up on the rear cup holder, and unsnap the three console pieces that fit on the top. Use a socket or wrench to remove the ebrake and one of the body control modules right there, and the two tiny black screws on the sides of the console. Remove anything else and lift up the center console. Also the cigarette lighters are going to need to be disconnected as well.

From there pull the carpet out and replace, enjoy!

• 
• 1 answer

If you can get at them with a drill buy an easyout which is like a drill bit but the threads are backwards. The size of the bolts will determine the size of the easyout and the size of the drill bit to use. Drill a hole down through the middle of the bolt and then insert the easyout and turn counter clockwise. The bolt should come loose. Soak the bolt first with liquid wrench or some other penetrating fluid to loosen up, the longer the better. If you have room to put a pair of vise grips on the bolt then this method would be easier. The secret is to soak with the liquid wrench for as long as possible.

I have used the PB Penetrating Catalyst to unfasten one of the rusted and broken bolt on my old brake caliper. It took few spray and overnight to break the tought broken bolt but it's better than drilling the threads in my opinion. This product is amazing and I have told my friends to try this as well.

www.pbblaster.com

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

Remove all foreign material, i.e., rust, paint, etc. Apply bondo to clean, rough metal only.

Make sure metal is roughened to ensure adhesion of bondo to metal.

Begin shaping, sanding, just after bondo is set up, don't leave too long, will be difficult to sand.

Apply more bondo, to the sanded bondo, if needed, sand again - apply primer just prior to touch out glaze.

1. Use only fresh Bondo, not some that was opned last year. 2. Don't mix a large amount at one time. It will harden before you have a chance to apply. 3. Make sure your Bondo and hardener are well mixed. 4. Once you are shaped and sanded, get primer on it right away. Bondo and other fillers hold water. 5. Don't leave primer on too long without painting, it holds water as well. 6. When you're are shaping and sanding, WEAR A MASK. The dust can ruin your lungs.

• 
• 1 answer

specially designed wrench.

• 
• 1 answer

I recommend first trying to buff it out with a power buffer, but if that doesn't work there is another option. There is a paint cleaner made by the same company that makes "Goo Gone" it is called "Goof Off" (Seriously)(Sold in any major hardware store) It is a paint STRIPPER, so be very careful not to spill any where you do not intend to. What you will want to do is find the softest, cleanest rag you can find, and apply SMALL amounts of "Goof Off" to the rag, and buff the undesired paint out with small circles. Be cautioned tho because too much "Goof Off" and over-zealous buffing WILL take the factory paint right off of your car. In between your factory paint and your "Pole Paint" there are several layers of Clear coat finish applied to your paint job, this is what gives the paint it's glossy finish...you can usually get away with removing a layer or two of the clear coat without too much noticeability, but even then you can mask any small problem areas with buffing wax. I hope this helps you out, I have had three cars spray painted in my driveway by little punks in my neighborhood, (not all of them owned by me) and used "Goof Off" to remove it and it worked fine. Just take your time...patience is the key, and don't use too much or you may be even more upset with the end results.

What worked best for me was a "Mr Clean" sponge and a lot of elbow grease. I successfully removed a very large area (approximately 2 ft x 1 ft) of red paint from my white vehicle using nothing more than the two ingredients listed above. I backed into one of the large red posts seen in front of many Target stores, no dents thankfully, but plenty of red paint was taken home. The "Mr Clean" sponge took it right off, leaving the paint underneath only slightly more dull than the unaffected areas surrounding it. That can easily be remedied with a good wash and wax. Hope this helps...

• 
• 1 answer

I saw a Sentra with a visor that wouldn't stay up. The owner had taken sticky backed velcro and attached small pieces to the roof and the mating piece to the back of the visor. It seemed to work well, but I think the sticky might let go in very hot weather.

A lot of sellers on eBay have the sun visor clips for sale. Best of luck!

<Correction> The sun visor on my 1997 Nissan Sentra wont stay up either. On close inspection it has nothing to do with the sun visor clips. It looks like the dysfunction is within the visor itself. I don't see any way to repair this without buying a new/used visor.

• 
• 1 answer

How are the hinges? If the door drops down when opened, then the hinges are worn out. If the hinges are fine, then adjustment to the striker/bolt assembly is needed. This is very simple, and once you take a look at it, you'll see what to do.

• 
• 1 answer

Apply it the same as any other sheet metal. Just make sure it is supported from the back; ie., if off the vehicle...put it back on and begin working. If off and no car around....use a wooden saw horse (tends to work best), place over top and secure with wood screws. If you try shaping on unsecure sheet metal, you create more damage than to begin with.

• 
• 1 answer

in body shop terms...if i said that "I had to paint the dog house" that would mean that i sprayed the hood, both fenders, and in newer cars the front facia/bumper cover.

hope that helped

• 
• 1 answer

Buy a new plastic hinge Volvo part number 31265160. To replace the hinge, push the two center pins through using a punch. This will free up the broken hinge and you can remove it. Attach the new hinge to the door, then set the grommets into the openings and push the pins in to retain the grommet. BE CAREFUL NOT TO PUSH THE PINS TOO FAR. All they need to be is flush with the grommet.

• 
• 1 answer

Okay, first of all that sounds like a sexual question, which has nothing to do with cars.

- But when your leather or ( what ever material you have ) gets fuzzy, normally that means that it is wet/damp. Other than that i dont know.

• 
• 1 answer

Not sure what type of vehicle you have, so its a little tough to tell you how to fix it exactly...with that said, I would be willing to bet that your leak problem is not actually the floor board but an area above it and the water just goes to the low spot...give a little more info and may be able to help you out..

• 
• 1 answer

It's easy. To remove the shift knob, grasp it firmly and twist it counter-clockwise, like you would the top on a bottle. That's it. Nothing fancy. Although the previous answer is right for most vehicles, some do have a retainer nut holding them onto the shaft. look closely at how it is attached

• 
• 1 answer

Yes, Its very difficult and rather expensive.

• 
• 1 answer

try to vacuum out the water remaining. carefully Remove the leather by either unzipping or carefully cutting the leather. replace or steam clean the inside padding then replace the leather.