Resetting the Service reminder indicator (SRI), model years -2001
The service reminder indicator (SRI) informs the driver that it is time for the car to be serviced. The lamp remains lit for 120 seconds when the ignition is switched on.
Note! If the lamp flashes, it may be because one of the service parameters has not been programmed.
Proceed as follows to reset the service reminder indicator (SRI):
-Ignition position I
-Press and hold in the reset button for the trip odometer
-Ignition position II
-The service reminder indicator (SRI) starts flashing when the reset button for the trip odometer has been pressed for 10 seconds
-Release the reset button for the trip odometer within 5 seconds. The instrument gives an audible signal when resetting has succeeded.
Note! If the trip meter reset button is not released within 5 seconds the indicator is not reset. However the indicator will stop flashing.
Resetting the service reminder indicator (SRI), model years 2002-
The service reminder indicator (SRI) informs the driver that it is time for the car to be serviced. The text message is displayed for 120 s each time the ignition is switched on.
Proceed as follows to reset the service reminder indicator (SRI):
-Ignition position I
-Press and hold in the reset button for the trip odometer
-Ignition position II.
Note! Turn the key to position II within 2 seconds.
-Hold the reset button for the trip meter pressed in until the original value has been reset.
Note! For all vehicles from the 2003 model year a general yellow lamp will light when the reset button must be released.
-Release the reset button for the trip odometer within 4 seconds. The instrument gives an audible signal when resetting has succeeded
-If the trip meter is already reset the reset button should be held in for a minimum of 10 seconds and a maximum of 14 seconds.
Note! If the reset button for the trip odometer is not released within 4 seconds, the service reminder indicator (SRI) is not reset.
First you need to remove the bumper. For that you need to remove bumper cover moldings. Once you remove those you will see two bolts (12mm) that you will need to remove. After you remove them, you need to remove two (T25) screws that are located under cover fender one on each side towards the end of bumpers. To do that you need to unscrew each of them about 1/2" each and then push back in. After that, you need to remove 6 plastic clips that are located on top of the bumper. They are removed by pressing the button that is in the center of each clip. Now to remove the bumper just pull it towards yourself. Once you will do that you will figure out what to do next in order to take off the headlamps.
This is extremely difficult unless you are a double-jointed orang utan - in theory the driver's handbook tells you how. If you're in the UK take it to Halfords who will do it while you wait for £5.99 plus the cost of the bulb. Money well spent!
I had the same problem. I had to get tough with them. I know this doesnt sound right but you need to use a bigger hammer! Break it loose by hitting the hubs. working it side to side until it clears the inside drum. The pads are grooved into the drum and holding on the outside lip. Good luck!
each time i want to play the car sterio of 1997 VOLVO S70 GLT It will ask of code. It will ask of a code.How do i put this code. the serial number is VO8170 V9179463B. You need to go to your Volvo dealership and they will do it for free. If you call them they will give you a code and tell you to keep your radio on for two hours than put that code in there but that does not work it is better to just go to the dealership they will do it for free and than they will give you the code in case it happens again.
its on the left side (driver's side) in the trunk under the floor
P0042 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place
Remove caliper mounting bolts
Slide caliper off rotor
Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston in to caliper body
Replace inner and outer brake pads
PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE
I used the Napa brand tool, #3355 which cost about $12.00. I will also needed a #50 Torx bit to remove the caliper assy. update- found Napa tool #3163 a better fit, matches the 3/4 inch cube description..
You will need a special tool (3/4 inch cube that snaps on to ratchet wrench) to turn in the pistons on the rear calipers.
13.9 seconds at 101mph
I think they all do this to a greater or lesser degree. Especially in high gear at low RPM. Really bad vibration might be the engine mounts.
The crank or speed position sensor on a Volvo S60 is on the engine where the engine attaches to the transmission. It is in the 12 'o clock position and is normally blocked by the bootom radiator pipe which goes over the transmission.
it depends on the car and driver. i drive my Volvo hard, and its turbo charged so i replace the oil every 3000 miles with full synthetic, if its a turbo i would replace it with only full synthetic and at most every 5000 miles.
if it is a regular one, any kind of oil will do and change it between 5000 miles and 7500 miles only if you drive very lightly on the car.
On a 2001 S60 base model this is a fairly easy job. It took me about an hour and a half to replace both rear shocks, but probably could have been done in about 1 hour now that I know exactly what needs to be done.
- floor jack
- torx socket (size T40) and socket wrench
- 18mm angled box end wrench (preferably ratcheting)
- 17mm socket wrench
- sturdy steel rod about 3/8" in diameter or perhaps a long, large screw driver would do
Remember to follow typical good safety practices. Wear your personal protective equipment, make sure the car is on a level surface, have the car in gear, place blocks around one of the tires you are not removing, etc.
The top mount is located inside the trunk near the wheel well. Lay the rear seat forward and from the back seat you should see one retaing clip along the side (previously hidded by the seat back). Remove that clip and pull the trunk lining away to provide access to the wheel well area. There's a round (about 6") piece of black foam covering the shock mount.
1) Jack up one rear corner and remove the wheel.
2) Set blocks (or jack stands) under the car to hold it up while you are working on the rear suspension.
3) Locate the top mount as described above.
4) Use the 18mm box end wrench to loosen the mounting nut while holding the top shaft of the shock with the T40 torx socket and wrench to keep it from turning.
5) Use the 17mm socket and wrench to remove the bottom mounting bolt. Before removing I used a wire brush on the exposed threads and sprayed them with oil to aid the removal.
6) With the car on blocks use the floor jack to lift the suspension arm. You may have to tap on the bottom of the old shock to get it to break loose and drop out. At this point I had to raise the suspension arm a little more to allow enough clearance to get the old shock completely out.
7) Lift the new shock into place and insert the top shaft through the upper mounting hole.
8) Either: have a helper start the nut on the top mount in the trunk or push the bottom of the shock high enough that it starts to line up with the bottom mount. This should hold it in place enough for you to get the top nut started on the upper shaft inside the trunk.
9) Tighten the 18mm nut while again holding the upper shaft using the torx socket.
10) This was the hardest step. Align the bottom of the new shock with the lower mount. I used the floor jack to slowly push it into place watching the mounting hole to see when it was lining up. I could only get one side lined up at a time this way and if you push it too far up on either side you will need to use the long rod and hammer to tap it back down. I pushed it up until the front hole lined up and then tapped the rear side down to allow the bolt to line up with the rear side of the mount. To tap it down I inserted the long rod roughly vertical through the rear coil spring so that the end of the rod touched the rear side of the lower end of the shock. Then tapped the rod with the hammer until the rear hole lined up.
11) Tighten the bottom mounting bolt
12) Replace the black foam and trunk lining.
13) Mount the wheel, unblock the car, and move on to the other side.
It means that one or more of your tail lights (daytime running lights) has failed or is near failure. There should be two of these bulbs on each side of the car, stacked one on top of the other. Consult your owner's manual on the correct type of bulb to use. They usually come in 2-packs and do not vary widely in quality.
To replace the bulbs, open your trunk and ensure the car has been turned off for at least 5 minutes (some of the electronic components will continue running after you stop the engine). Inside the trunk, on the left and right sides, you should notice two round plastic parts that can be turned. Turn one of them, and pull that part of the trunk wall down to the floor.
At this point, you should be looking into the compartment behind the tail light assembly. Notice there are 2 sets of bulb sockets (upper and lower) being held into place by a clip. Pinch the clip on the lower set, and gently pull out the entire set of bulb sockets. Be careful not to stretch or tear the wires or break the connecter. The bulbs you need to replace are in the middle (the only ones stacked vertically, close together). See which bulbs are burnt or have broken filaments. Replace that bulb AND the matching bulb on the opposite side of the car.
If you don't replace the matching bulb on the opposite side, the car may continue to detect a voltage difference between the bulbs and continue to give you the "Bulb Failure-Position Light" message.
Please note: Since all four running-lights get used equally, the other set may also need replacement soon.
1. Prepare a clean, flat area for the wheel that you will be doing.
2. Loosen the wheel nuts. ( just get them to turn, don't unscrew yet )
3. Jack up this wheel. Place a jackstand in appropriate place. ( probably just to right or left of where the owners manual says to place the jack. )
DON'T RELY ON ONLY THE JACK ! !
4. Finish unscrewing the wheel nuts, and remove the tire.
5. The caliper is obvious - - it's the big metal "pincher" thing wrapped around the wheel disc.
6. Get an old coathanger, bend a solid hook in both ends, about 10 in. from hook to hook.
6. It's pretty easy to see the 2 large bolts on the back side ( toward the engine) of the caliper. Loosen preferably with a socket wrench. ( you will probably have to bang the arm of the socket wrench or regular wrench with a hammer to get the bolt started. This caliper has been bolted there for 4 years or so ? ) Remember to go counter-clockwise to UNSCREW these bolts. But this is CLOCKWISE from where you are ! ( facing the wheel from outside the car) AFTER these 2 bolts are loose enough to turn with your fingers, hook one end of the coat hanger somewhere above the disc/wheel, like on the upper suspension, etc.
7. These two bolts will come out easier if you hold the caliper with your other hand and sort of "wiggle" it. ( especially when the bolts are almost out ) DEFINITELY have a grasp on the caliper when you completely remove the bolts. DON"T let the caliper fall and hang by the rubber brake line, because this could damage, crack the brake line. Suspend the caliper by hooking it to the bottom hook of your coat hanger. This should be done so there is NO STRAIN on the rubber brake line.
8. The two brake pads are on the inside of the caliper, facing each other. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry them loose. They should slide toward the "open" space in the middle of the caliper and then come out fairly easily. Keep them to compare to your replacements, to verify they are correct.
9. There are two little " Y " springs that are BEHIND the pads. ( at least on the '96 Maxima there are ) Try to see how they are hooked in, but this may be difficult, as they may just drop or pop out when you remove the pads.
- - - Now you just put in the new pads, but here is where my knowledge gaps - - I don't exactly know how to put the little "Y" springs back ! ( I am in this process this morning - - so maybe I will finish this answer later ! ! - - - -
Pull off the wheel - after removing the lug nuts it might be tight or "stuck" and you may have to bump it to loosen it from the wheel housing. Once the wheel is off you can then see the disc brakes. On the back at either end of the assembly is a bolt with a recess that takes a hex also known as an Allen head wrench. You will need to loosen and unscrew both bolts. Once these are removed you then can slide off the assembly that hold the pads. Be carefule to not over strain the hose or the parking brake cable. Secure the assembly with a piece of tiewire. The pads will then essentialls be free to slide out of the housing. Remove the pads. Now comes the part where you have to recess te piston that presses the pads onto the rotor. Using a suitable wrench screw the piston ends so that they screw back into the piston housing. You will need to make sure you have moved the pistons back enough so that you can reinstall the new pads and slide the assembly back over the rotor. When you have done this align one of the bolts that you prevously removed. Notice there is a rubber "boot" that you will need to move around and possibly rotate soa s to be able to position the assembly. Insert one of the screws and screw in a few turns. Repeat with the other. Tighten each bolt to the appropriate torque - for this value refer to the manufacturer's recommendations. Look for any hydraulic/brake fluid leaks. If noe then reinstall the wheel. Tighten lug nuts to the appropriate torque - do not use any liquid lubricant on the nuts, dry clean threads are correct. Before driving the vehicle anywhere drive forward and backward applying the brakes rather sharply to cause the pads to move out to engage the rotors. Do not drive anywhere until this is done and the brakes are working properly. If this does not answer your question - go to a local service place and ask someone there to show/tell you how to do it. Good luck and be careful.
I don't know, but I had a similar problem in a 2002. It seemed there was a latch that was supposed to slide to let the battery out which was latched in, but I couldn't move the latch at all. It was very frustrating and a person from Checker Auto Parts couldn't figure it out either.
I had similar situation, after some frustrating time trying to figure out how to release the latch, it occurred to me that the latch is designed to pop-out when levered upward at the tap. I used a hammer claw to tug at the tap of the latch and pull upward with controlled steady force, and it should pop-out.
yes, so long as they are the same type (mine are H7 Xenon)
The 2002 Volvo S60 has double overhead cam (DOHC).
um that's bad. It's an automatic light, which means that it goes out when the problem is fixed, like your door ajar light. So this probably means you need oil. If you don't know how to do this, real quick, make sure car is off. Down on the bottom side of the driver seat foot area up against the wall by the door under the dash there is a hood release. Pull it towards you. Go to the hood, feel around for the safety release and push it up. Then pull the hood up. The dipstick is colored yellow w/ a circular tip. Pull it out, clean it off, then check it twice. Make sure there is oil on it to a specified level.
Happened to me when I was very low on fuel. Client, that I called to explain I was going to be late, came to rescue. You need to manually push the lever/plunger. Get at it by opening trunk and pulling down panel on fuel door side as if you were going to replace a bulb in the back. Notice, a box and plunger as you look from back (light panel area) to front of vehicle. Push plunger. Viola!
You need to buy a new one. You can obtain one at the related link.
Buy the wrench at the related link so it does not break again.