yes, so long as they are the same type (mine are H7 Xenon)
um that's bad. It's an automatic light, which means that it goes out when the problem is fixed, like your door ajar light. So this probably means you need oil. If you don't know how to do this, real quick, make sure car is off. Down on the bottom side of the driver seat foot area up against the wall by the door under the dash there is a hood release. Pull it towards you. Go to the hood, feel around for the safety release and push it up. Then pull the hood up. The dipstick is colored yellow w/ a circular tip. Pull it out, clean it off, then check it twice. Make sure there is oil on it to a specified level.
Happened to me when I was very low on fuel. Client, that I called to explain I was going to be late, came to rescue. You need to manually push the lever/plunger. Get at it by opening trunk and pulling down panel on fuel door side as if you were going to replace a bulb in the back. Notice, a box and plunger as you look from back (light panel area) to front of vehicle. Push plunger. Viola!
You need to buy a new one. You can obtain one at the related link.
Buy the wrench at the related link so it does not break again.
The 2011 Volvo S60 has a 6-speed shiftable automatic.
"A good price for a 2006 Volvo S60 car is about 15,000 dollars depending on the number of miles and the condition of the car. You should not pay much more than that."
Volvo is made by Volvo. While Geely of China owns the controlling stock the cars are still produce by Volvo in Sweden and other European countries
The 2008 Volvo S60 runs on premium unleaded (recommended).
Remove Wheels re-install two lug nuts to hold rotor in place Loosen both Caliper hold down bolts Totally remove one bolt only swing caliper using remaing bolt as a pivot point support flexible brake line slide outer brake pad out use "C" clamp or other like tool to retract piston using inner brake pad for leverage remove inner brake pad
Install both brake pads\ pivot caliper back down and secure remove lugs nuts install wheel
REMEBER TO PUMP BRAKES TO RESET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING CAR.
Take it to a dealer. (Helpful score -10)
A somewhat less trite answer is:
1..... Turn ignition to position 1
2..... Press the trip reset down and hold
3..... Turn ignition to position 2 (within 2 seconds of holding down the trip reset)
Continue to hold the reset in until the original milage is returned, then release.
Switch ignition off, count to ten then turn on again, warning should be removed.
Now make sure your vehicle is serviced, changing the oil is the cheapest spare part !!
Most 2003 onwards vehicles have a yellow warning triangle in the centre of the dash, this will light up when it is time to release the button.
Hope this helps........
The gas tank on the 2002 Volvo S60 holds 18.5 gal..
After trying several suggestions I tried this and it worked!
1. Opened driver door and kept it open.
2. Turned key on position II.
3. Pressed odometer button and held it down. (It had some mileage on both T1 and T2 when I started don't know if this makes a difference.)
4. Turned key on position III within 2 seconds of pressing the odometer button.
5. Waited until center warning triangle started flashing (about 4-5 sec).
6. After that I let go of the odometer button.
7. Turned off ignition fully.
8. Turned on ignition and checked that code has reset.
I think the trick is to wait until the warning triangle begins flashing. I did the second time I tried this and it reset. 2008 Volvo S60 2.5T
Some thing s that RTI stands for include:
RTI is a on-board navigation system.
Road traffic information.
Right to information.
Could be a few things, I would check universal joints first. Also check driveshaft for damage.
please check out this website: http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume2/brake_system.htm
click on " pe36t" this is the same system as your (and my) celica
I have the same problem today, you can hear the solenoid when you turn the key but nothing, please help!!
If your not used to working with antilock/traction control vehicles, you may want to leave this job to a professional. There are some things that you need to be aware of before proceeding with the job. But, if you decide to go on with this, You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.
You will need: Jack, jackstands, various wrenches or socket set, new brake pads, c-clamp
I usually do one side at a time.
Jack the car up safely. Put the car on jackstands.
Take the wheel off.
Loosen the two caliper bolts.
Pull the caliper off, and remove the old pads.
Make sure you DONT let the caliper hang by the brake cable set it up behind the knuckle or get something to support it with.
Use a large C-clamp to push the piston back in.
Install the new pads on the caliper.
Put the caliper back on, tighten the bolts down.
Replace the wheel.
Move on to the other side. Repeat procedure.
Check brakes before going anywhere!
the immobilizer prevents then engine from starting when for instance someone is trying to steal the car. if you have the proper key this should not engage.
on newer volvos, and many other cars, the grinding you might hear is simply the sound the brake pads make when they rub against the brake rotor. if you let off the brake slowly, then its purely the slight friction between the two causing the sound. i too have an s60 and have heard this before. dont worry about it. the s60 is a heavy car and the brakes are under a lot of pressure
First of all, there are no "emergency brake pads". The emergency brake or handbrake utilizes the normal brake shoes that are used by the service brake pedal.
No it doesnt who the hell told you that, have you ever looked, the handbrake uses separate shoes on the inside of the rear discs. these can be changed by
take off the rear wheels, and put on axel stands
remove the rear calipers and use string to hang caliper off suspention spring so brake pipe is not damaged
with handbrake in off position remove discs
change over shoes making sure all parts are refitted as they were orignaly
wind in the adjuster at the bottom and refit discs and wind 2 wheels nuts on to hold disc in place for adjustment
test the handbrake, if it sits high the shoes needs adjusting,
turn the disc so the inspection hole is at the bottom, using a screwdriver turn the adjuster (both sides must be done equally for correct fitment)
this process maybe repeated until handbrake is about where you want it, the adjuster on the handbrake it self under rubber dust cover this can be used to fine tune
refit wheels and check the handbrake works as desired
ANSWER:: Wow.. I am not sure where the second opinion came from, but I can assure you that the first one is correct. The emergency/parking brake on the 1994 Celica is actually just a manual hand setting of the regular rear brakes and can be adjusted from insde the car. Just lift the emergency/parking brake handle.. you will see an adjustment nut (or maybe it's a screw.. but I think I remember it being a nut). All the nut does is free-spin to allow the handle to compensate itself relative to the tension in the cable. With the brake handle pulled up about 2/3 of the way, make your adjustment and then pull the handle all the way up to test it for desired firmness. It's easy and quick to do.
raise auto and place jack stands under auto, remove tire , unloosen the caliber bolts, remove caliber, take out front brake pad and use a C clamp to push the pistons back into the caliber, remove rear brake pad and install new pads and place caliber back and bolt on and then pump brakes until they are hard again