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Hey Derek==You have clutch problems. Take it to a garage and have it repaired. GoodluckJoe

I regularly have this every 4 yrs or so the transmission selector bushes need renewing cost approx 50 to 70 pounds , classic signs are difficulty selecting the reverse or 5 th gears initially not sure waht happens later as i change the bushes at this stage

-----------------------------------Update 1-11-12----------------------------- Here's what I did.... Grab a can of WD40 and stick the straw in between the button and the casing and give it a few squirts... Wipe up with a paper towel and work the button a few times... Should loosen right up. At least it did for me.

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sometimes after replacing the battery you have to adjust the Johnson rod i have the same vehicle when i replaced the battery i just pulled the rod a little and since i have had no problems

Is there another name for a Johnson rod as my car is doing the same thing. My dad has looked at it he has been a mechanic for 40 years and has never heared of a Johnson rod. The problem is driving him mad as he can't fix it for us.

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WHERE DO YOU GET A REPLACEMENT IN DASH PUSH IN CUP HOLDER FOR THE 2001 S40 VOLVO? FIRST :) I already have the new cup holder from Volvo! How do I replace it? You have the actual guestion listed, now where do I find the answer????

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Open the cover of the boot lid - from there on you should see the bulb socket ==New Answer Headline== Have just figured out how to replace a bulb in the license plate light of my 1999 S40. Not sure if it is exactly the same as the 2000 model but here goes. Open back the trim on inside of boot lid so that the two license plate lights are visible. (They are located on either side of the boot lock). Locate the two wires that are connected to the bulb holder which projects from the back of the light. On my S40, the bulb holder is black and conical and appears to be an integral part of the light assembly but can be removed by squeezing either side and pulling directly back out of the light assembly. To make removal of the bulb holder easier, you can first disconnect the two wires from each holder. As you remove the bulb holder, be careful not to drop the holder and bulb into the sapce between the reinforcing metalwork on the inside of the boot! Remove old bulb, and fit new one into bulb holder, push holder into back of light assembly and check that it works before replacing into back of light assembly and replacing boot trim! If for some reason you need to repalce the entire light assembly, first remove the external panel that contains the boot lock and runs along over the license plate. Do this by unscrewing the four nuts on inside of boot lid that hold panel in place. Light assembly can then be removed by pushing from inside to outside after pressing on internal plastic retainers that are part of light assembly.

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The flasher is integrated with the hazard flasher switch All of the online research that I have done suggests that the flasher is located somewhere under the ashtray in the middle of the console. I will let you know when I find mine.......Sean Laird

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This depends on if you are replacing the front or rear wheel bearings. The front wheel bearings require that you remove the brake caliper and disc assemblies (this is required for the rear bearings as well) You will also need to remove the front driveshaft from the hub, after which the hub will unbolt and can be removed from the vehicle. S40's have the annoying habit of having the driveshafts rust into the hub, so you may have some difficulty with that. The rear hub assemblies are also removed in a similar way, except you don't have to remove the driveshaft as it wont have one! If you are replacing the bearings with genuine Volvo units they should come as a whole hub assembly, in which case all you have to do is bolt the new units in and off you go. However if you are just replacing the bearings themselves, you'll require the use of a heavy duty bech press to remove the bearings from the housing.

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It depends on the car. Older vehicles, with carburators and mechanical fuel pumps can continue to run after the engnine is turned off. It's a condition called "Piston Glow" or "run-on". If it's a newer vehicle, the fuel pump and injectors shut off immediately when you turn off the key so it's not possible to continute running unless there is a problem with the switch.
Timing set too far advanced and very low octane fuel may also cause dieseling (run- on). Before fuel injection this was common and some carburators had an electrical shut-off valve to stop the run-on.

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CR2450

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Depends on how old the car is, mines 1990, and i just went to the wreckers and went through jars upon jars of keys. found one that was close and bingo

Well even !990 volvo offer like 10 to 15 k combinations of keys u been so lucky should go to play lottery right after that

Or I hire you as my lead specialist lol

with was that way i have around 30-40 k no luck or lock yet

2 cent s by car locksmith specialist

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Put the ignition key into position I, push in and hold the odometer reset button (use your left hand), move the ignition key to position II, when the service light begins to blink,let go of the odometer reset button. Confirm by turning your Volvo off then on again.

The previous description was for resetting the "Service" light.

To reset the check engine light, the car must be plugged into either an OBDII compliant scan tool, or a dealer's scan tool to retrive whatever trouble code has been stored, repair the problem, and then the light can be "reset".

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is this while the egnition is still turned on if so its probably just cooling the engine and should switch off after a minute

Mine had an issue that continued for several minutes after removing the Key on my 2000 Volvo S40. It also impacted the air conditioning. The fix for me was to replace the temperature control sensor and the thermostat. Thermostat was only $7 or so, the temp control sensor was more like $45-$50. I did this, and was able to get my engine running again, but still had the air conditioning issue. turns out that one of the parts I had replaced was bad, I replaced both and everything worked great. Not a hard job to do yourself, should take 15 mins or less.

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disconnect the battery for 1min or so the light will go off

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Premium

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1. Turn the key to the 1st position. 2. Hold the trip button down and 3. Then turn the key to the 3rd position. 4. The light will begin to flash and about the third time, release the trip button. 5. Start the car to make sure the light is OFF. from "Service Light" by lad10der, June 16, 2001

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Electronics such as phones and digital cameras.

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I was wondering the same thing, but gave up and just decided to give the light assembly a good look and this is how I did it.

1. To remove light cover, tilt the bottom of the headlight up. It should become loose enough to remove and expose the bulb. If it isn't loose enough you may have to unscrew the blinker assembly cover. (I had to only on one side.)

2. Pop open your hood to view the back of the bulb assembly. You'll see that the existing bulb has a notch helping to hold it in and if you push down on the notch, the notch should pop out of the holder.

3. Pull the piece with the holder and it should detach from the bulb.

4. Now, twist the grooved plastic washer surrounding the bulb. I don't remember the direction, but it doesn't take much to turn it. Remove this and place to the side.

5. Moderately pull the bulb in the direction of your engine. It should come out.

6. Take the new bulb and place it where the old one was. To get it to go in all the way, you may have to twist it to fit in the notches (this is where having the light cover off helps).

7. Once the bulb is in, you can just do all the previous directions in reverse, and then repeat for the other side.

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behind the gas pedal, drivers foot well

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My service station quoted this as an 9 hour job (labor only) because I have a small leak in one of my cylinder head gaskets. Not sure if their estimate is accurate, but that's what they quoted.

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A device that prevents a gas flame from entering the supply pipe.

A device that prevents a gas flame from entering the supply pipe.

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The wire are located under the plastic cover on the top of the engine. If you are looking at the oil fill cap, the cover is behind the cap. The cover is held in place by six T30 screws. Loosen the screws and the cover comes off, it has two pieces.

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Trouble code P1014 means: CMP Sensor/CKP Sensor Signals Not Compatible

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I have the same problem. Car starts right up, runs great on the highway, but the moment i have to stop the car, it stalls. I have noticed it only starts doing this after the car has warmed up to normal running temp. The check engine light continually comes on, then disappears, only to reappear later. It has had the mass airflow sensor replaced twice. This has not solved the problem. Last week i had my wife start the car, while i watched the exhaust. When the car starts to stall, i notice black smoke. A sign that it is running to rich(to much gasoline in the air/gasoline mixture). I suspect the computer is still trying to choke the car as if it is cold, even when it is warmed up. I am finally going to take it to an actual Volvo dealer tomorrow. I will follow up with the results.

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Hello there, My flasher unit has broke down and I am looking for a new one. I have a 1997 V40 and the flasher unit was located front left at the bottom under the stearing wheel. When you look closely you will see a black relay with Flasher unit on it Kind regards Pierre try prancingmoose.com and look for one there. I did a search online and found one for like 25 bucks.