Remove the interior door panel. You will see a metal rod connecting your interior and exterior door handles. Most of the time the rod comes loose from one or the other. Reconnect the rod. There's not much space so you might need a pair of needlenose pliers. If that doesn't work, there is a trip lever toward the rear of the door. The lever can be stubborn but it will open the door. Any vehicle service center should be able to open it for you.
Access Through Opened Window (easier if it will work)
If the door is jammed shut, it will not be possible to remove the door trim on most cars without destroying it. However, if you are able to roll the window down you should be able to insert a thin piece of metal (e.g. wire coat hanger, "slimjim") and manipulate the door handle rod inside to pop it open. This is possible only if the reason behind the jam is mechanical and not structural.
I had the same problem on my s70 and the shop wanted $1000.00 dollars I did not have. follow the link below and there will be photos and explanation on doing the change yourself. Get a good nights sleep, Start early in the morning, make sure you have all the tools readily available and keep all christians and minor children away from the immediate area. http://volvospeed.com/Repair/Radiator850turbo.php
Heres a link that will help. In the future try to give us some more information on your car year, make, model. You supply all of this and you will get an answer very fast! Thanks in advance http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineTurboRebuilding.htm
In most casses no because Mercades invests alot in comfort and safety.
1. Obtain the correct bulb; I got mine from a Volvo dealer, but it does not look like a highly specialized bulb.
2. Open rear hatch. Remove the plastic cover on the side pillar next to the hatch that has a speaker vent: you do this by poking a small screwdriver into each of the two rectangular slots next to the hatch, and prying back the plastic cover.
3. Remove the speaker by pulling on the two red tabs at the bottom.
4. The bulb holder is now exposed. Remove it by prying gently on the flange that holds it in place. It will come out, and you can replace the bulb.
5. Reinstall all parts in the reverse sequence.
The below is for the service interval light. The SRS (airbag system) needs to have the codes read and the problem repaired. You are dealing with saving your life you know...
As far as I'm aware this should work.
Press and hold odometer reset button. Turn ign key to "run" position. After the serv ice engine light flashes release button. Turn off ign then back on to confirm reset.
S70 and V70 and C70 and XC70
1. Press and hold odometer reset button.
2. Turn ignition switch to Run.
3. After SRL flashes, release odometer reset button.
4. Confirm by turning your Volvo off, then on again.
Little screw by headlight switch, each position of screw = bright day running, dim day running or off
You need a torx screwdriver....
Depends on how old the car is, mines 1990, and i just went to the wreckers and went through jars upon jars of keys. found one that was close and bingo
Well even !990 volvo offer like 10 to 15 k combinations of keys u been so lucky should go to play lottery right after that
Or I hire you as my lead specialist lol
with was that way i have around 30-40 k no luck or lock yet
2 cent s by car locksmith specialist
above the front passenger foot area, under the dash, right about the to of your toes. remove the black panel. there is another small panel under that that covers the end of the filter. you will have to bend the filter slightly to get it out. pay close attention to the position of the angled end and where it goes. It's not fun to get to but it's worth the effort.
I believe usuallly it is a High Carbon Steel such as 1080 - 1095 or 5160 series steels
The regulator is internal to the alternator! Just replace the alt.
The alternator has an internal regulator that can be replaced by itself; however, when there is an issue with the alternator, it often involves diodes in alternator instead of or in addition to the regulator.
better repair shops will often take an alternator to an automotive electrical repair shop for same-day rebuilds, with the value much higher than a cheap rebuild in a chain parts shop, and hundreds less than a dealer replacement. You want Bosch or your own Bosch rebuilt
SRS (supplimental restraint system) is the air bag system. It can mean that they have been deployed, there is a fault in the computer or one of the air bags have been unplugged. Even if plugged back in it will give thid fault code. The only way to turn this off is taking it to the dealer, even if you have OBD scanner it will not turn off this light.
It depends on the year. The following is based on my first hand experiences, advice from Volvo techs and parts guys, and reading about these cars.
The first year was 1998; the body style is a minor update of the Volvo 850. With these cars, make sure the A/C is working; evaporators (the part inside the dashboard) is very expensive to replace. Clean cabin filters are important to extending the life of the evaporator.
The A/C clutches may exhibit failure by unlocking when underhood temperatures are very high, as in during hot weather. This is often misdiagnosed as an iced-up evaporator. Shutting the A/C off for 5 minutes will solve the problem in the short term, but eventually you'll need a new compressor (or at least a new magnetic clutch coil).
Also, automatic transmission failures are a bit of an issue with all front drive Volvos - fluid changes are important despite Volvo's advice that changes were not required. The upper engine mount (a rubber doughnut) can break down and cause vibration; a permanent fix is an aftermarket polyurethane part, but this material is harder and may result in more vibration inside the car than the factory part.
Front motor mounts (lower right side) can fail, but replacement need not be difficult or expensive. It is a reasonable DIY job.
Also, timing belts are quite straightforward to replace using instructions available on the web. Dealer flat rate is apparently 2.8 hours; a DIY'er can match this with good preparation. I expect that experienced techs do these routinely in less than 1 hour.
1999 was the first year of the electronic throttle module (ETM). Volvo used a module made by Magneti Marelli (along with a Denso air mass meter) from 1999 through 2001. Some early non-turbo 2002s also used this ETM before Volvo switched to Bosch parts. These early ETMs can exhibit failure, but they are subject to an extended 10 year 200,000 mile warranty for the Canadian and US markets. Revised software seems to have eliminated the problem. The cause has been explained to me as software that detected throttle resistance as dirt accumulated (or perhaps wear as well). The fix was to eliminate the resistance limits from the software. Volvo dealers may recommend a regular cleaning. DIY'ers should be careful to use throttle body cleaner, not carburetor cleaner.
2001 and newer cars were a new design except for the drivetrains (although automatic transmissions have been updated along the way. The newer platform is noted for weak swaybar endlinks and other minor suspension issues (clunking, etc.) Solutions include buying heavy-duty aftermarket endlinks.
Some owners complain of high maintenance and repair costs. The secret to Volvos in general is to maintain them by the book, and to keep them until they are truly worn out.
Turbos are generally just as reliable as non-turbo cars.
If you want all wheel drive, avoid the pre-2002 cars. Only the Haldex AWD systems are reliable enough to recommend.
Got your air con on? Are the revs dropping and climbing as the compressor kicks in and out?
I had this problem and although it didnt stall, it was pretty close - which is a problem in an automatic when you're sat at the lights in rush hour.
I had a new battery fitted and, once the new one was reconnected, the Engine Management computer seemed to reboot and to "learn" how to deal with the issue and it's fine now.
Is it not on the inside of the fuse-box cover?
If you need just to make a copy of it.You simply go to Dealer and $10 and 10min. later you have it
well there is no $10 copy we talking about an hi- security key with embedded chip that match computer of your car which will never be 10 min even with our equipment
2 solution for volvo
The Dealership and service department will be glad to assist you but it will cost you and delivery time 3-5 business day if you in town with no much volvo you will wait
Second look on the Gxxgle search for stuff like "volvo key replacement cost "and other similar Search we are few locksmith specialist who can cut and program volvo even by mail at competitive price compare to dealer so
look for it before the Stealership get you
check priority locksmith volvo
thank my 2 cents
You have a blown head gasket. STOP running this engine or you will destroy it. The head gasket needs replacing.
There might be another problem if you have a turbo. If so the smoke you see (if not pure white but a little gray with a burnt oil smell) might be oil leaking into the turbo unit and expelling through the exhaust. You would need to replace the turbo. Used ones for about $500 parts and $ 300 labor.
Press the shift lock override button next to the shifter. Make sure you push it as far down as you can.
In dry climates rubber suspension componets wear out more quickly than one would expect. If you use any wrong chemicals you can expect the componet you added the wrong chemical to have a failure shortly after so it is suggested you only use Volvo chemicals.
your headlamp switch on the dashboard has a small screw on it. its a 3 position switch. turn it to switch daytime running lights off.
Assuming this a new rather than classic V70 steps are (I've just cracked it today!)
Remove pen holder panel underneath heater panel
This gives access to two self tapping Torx headed screws on heater panel (they are short and likely to drop out!)
Unclip the leading edge of the gearlever cover plate and rotae through 90 degrees
You now have to wiggle the heater panel out but there are two metal clips at the top of the unit that need to be separated
I used two tyre cycle levers to crack open a gap between the heater panel and radio panel across is whole width.
This releases the pressure on the clips and allow the unit to be wiggled out
Volvo recommended interval is 105,000 miles. You also replace the tensioner and the idler pulley at this time.
You might also consider replacing the water pump at this time, it's driven by the timing belt and requires very little more labor to replace while you have the timing belt off.
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