i live in bozwman, Montana. i have a 1998 grand Cherokee Laredo. i paid 165 dollars installed.
it is on the driver side of the bellhousing-near the top-it is hard to get to if you are under the trans you can look up and see it .you may have to drop the rear of the trans a little bit by unbolting the crossmember..good luck
the jeep should hold only half of water and half antifreeze. If it still leaks than you should replace the housing that holds the antifreeze and you can always get it cheaper at the salvage yards.
you might want to check the water pump. look for a leak just under the pump. either the seal or a small hole in the housing. if the leak is out of the hole then replace the pump.
that is my guess cause there needs to be more info on problem.
The fuse for the brake lights is in the engine compartment fuse box, located behind the battery. Open the lid. Several fuses are marked but many are not. There is a group of 12 fuse sockets in the middle of the panel, arranged in 3 rows and 4 columns. The brake light fuse is in row 2, column 2. It powers left, right and middle brake lamps. If your brake switch fails in the ON position, you can pull this fuse until you can get a replacement switch. The drain of these lights being on can kill your battery overnight. Do not drive car without brake lights!Answerthe fuse panel is located behind the kick panel on the pass side, just below the dash.(to the right of where your feet sit in the floor board) there is also another power distribution panel under the hood next to the battery. Answerthere is no fuse marked brake lights on jeep cherokee's if you have no brake lights and all bulbs are good your problem is the brake switch mounted on your brake pedal, about 30 bucks.
The firing order should be 1-5-3-6-2-4.
On that model if you have a 4.0 inline six there are two.The first is located inside the engine bay on the driver side aprox. a foot after the exhaust pipe leaves the manifold. The second is under the pass. side of the truck in the exhaust pipe close to the ctalytic converter.If you have the v8 there is two on either side of the truck in just about the same locations as the other.Where the exh. pipe leaves manifold aprox. ten to twelve inches down. the other is under the truck close to the cat. conv. Remember the v8 model has two on either side of the truck. look for the big sparkplug looking thing with a wire coming out of it. Good luck.
Fuse diagrams are often posted on a Jeep owners Forum such as, CherokeeTalk, JeepForum, NAXJA, etc.
Here is a fuse list:
All information is based of a 2000 XJ and the related manuals.
Everything listed is a circuit that is either "attached" to the fuse or directly impacted by it.
Power distribution center (under the hood)
Looking at the PDC from the front of the vehicle, the bottom right mini fuse is #16,
the one above it is #17, the top one in the column is #18.
Fuse #19 is to the left (of #16)
Fuse #16 underhood lamp, transmission control module, radio & interior lights
Fuse #17 O2 downstream relay
fuse #18 coil rail & injectors
Fuse #19 headlamp switch & data connector
Fuse #20 combination flasher
Fuse #22 fuel pump relay
Fuse #23 brakelamp switch
Fuse #25 fog lamp relay
Fuse #26 power amplifier
Now to the junction/fuse block (inside kick panel)
Fuse #1 is the large 25A on the top of the left column
Fuse #15 is the large 25A on the top of the right column
Fuse #1 power outlet
Fuse #2 cigar lighter
Fuse #3 left headlamp
Fuse #4 left headlamp
Fuse #5 right headlamp
Fuse #6 Dash lights (switches, controls, gauge cluster)
Fuse #7 license light & the left side turn, parking, marker and tail lamp
Fuse #8 Spare
Fuse #9 compass, sentry key, headlamp delay module, instrument cluster
Fuse #10 transmission range sensor, duty cycle evap/purge solenoid, radiator fan relay, a/c clutch relay, o2 sensor up/downstream relays, back up lamp switch
Fuse #11 transmission control module, powertrain control module, automatic shutdown relay, fuel pump relay
Fuse #12 instrument cluster, combination flasher
Fuse #13 Spare
Fuse #14 power mirrors, rear defogger & switch
Fuse #15 passenger power lock/window switch
Fuse #16 cargo lamp/switch, courtesy lamps, radio, instrument cluster, under hood lamp, transmission control module
Fuse #17 radio
Fuse #18 power mirror switch, driver power window/lock switch, heated seats
Fuse #19 starter motor relay
Fuse #20 trailer tow harness & trailer turn relays
Fuse #21 horn(s)
Fuse #22 rear wiper switch & motor
Fuse #23 right side marker, turn, parking and tail lights
Fuse #24 Spare
Fuse #25 shift lock solenoid, a/c heater control, abs controller, abs controller relay, blower motor relay, blend door actuator
Fuse #26 airbag control module
Fuse #27 airbag control module
AS YOU LOOK AT THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT FROM THE FRONT, LOOK TO THE UPPER LEFT AND YOU WILL SEE CHROME COLORED TUBING WITH LOW PRESSURE VALVE ON TOP.
Sometimes the plug gets stuck pretty hard in the radiator and removal will damage the radiator. Just pull the lower rad hose and you will do the same thing.
Even though the Plug has a rib/tab down the middle making you think it is threaded into the radiator...in reality it is just a molded plug with rubber o-rings that pushes straight in and pulls straight out. So to remove it (although it is probably better to just remove the hose) just grasp the rib and pull straight out while maybe twisting back and forth.
No This link may help you though,http://www.cherokee-jeep.com/1-2swremov.htm
The information given is only for the AW4 transmission. You have the 42RE or 44RE, depends on if you have the I6 or v8. It is a $20-30 part from the dealer and is located on the drivers side of the transmission. Some tranny fluid will come out so either do a fluid change at the same time or pick up some extra ATF+4 to replentish.
My FSM isn't giving much information to tell the location but go buy the part and look for one that matches, it is right above my tranny fluid pan about center 98 I6.
I put a thing on my blog to help you out and anyone else that finds this and needs it. .
blog link: http://98jeepbuild.blogspot.com/2009/06/neutral-safety-switch.html
I'm assuming the answer to this question will be the same answer to the "How do you replace a rear brake light bulb on a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Edition?" question. The following is what was posted:
Rear: Brake, Back-up, Tail, Turn signal (3 bulbs, all # 3157)
To access the rear bulbs, open the liftgate and remove the two Phillips head screws from the side of the housing as shown in the center photo above. Slowly and firmly rotate the assembly away from the vehicle until it disengages from the ball pin socket that secures it in back.
Each of the three light sockets, all containing the same exact bulb type, can be removed by turning them counter-clockwise 1/4 turn.
Taillight harness connector
To remove the taillight harness, slide the red lock tab up and pull connector off.Well, I guess people should not make those sort of assumptions - the 1994 Jeep Cherokee was still one of the old-style box shaped Cherokees, nothing like a 2001 model at all, and it has much more old-fashioned lights.Actually, changing the tail lamps is a real pain. I know, I spent about 2 hours this morning replacing a broken driver's side fitting on my 1993 Cherokee. Open the trunk. The light fitting is held on by 3 obvious bolts. You'll need a socket set to shift them (I think I used a 3/32" bit). The fun begins because there is also a 4th bolt, hidden behind the lower bumper. You have to disassemble the end of the bumper to get at this (take off the plastic end cover that is attached to the metal bumper bar.) This itself is held on by 3 bolts. Hmm... undoing metal bolts that had been in place since 1993 (most likely), exposed to all weathers. That was fun (not). My hands are sore.Once you have taken out the four bolts that hold the big boxy plastic light fitting in place, it should fall forward from the car easily. To replace the bulbs, gently turn the metal holders 1/3 of a turn clockwise. They should retract back through the plastic fitting, allowing you to unnscrew the old bulb, and replace it.Good luck!
try http://www.chiltonsonline.com/ Or Try http://www.the12volt.com/ and use their Vehicle Wiring information page.
The BEST manual, especially for detailed wiring information, is the original factory repair manual. It contains COMPLETE schematics.
For any Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler vehicle you can order it from http://www.techauthority.com/
There is no pressure specification for recharging. Recharging is done by weight -- i.e., the system should have X ounces of refrigerant. Typical operating pressures for most cars would be 20-30 psi on the low side, 125-300 on the high side.AnswerOn my Grand Cherokee I charge based on temperature of the two aluminum tubes going in/out of the firewall to the evaporator. Charge until these two feel the same temp. This is basically what the manual says to do.
In the process of doing my head gasket as well, i have had the same thing happen i cracked two of my cylinder heads, i have just got another two and had them pressure checked before we put them back on, i found price not to bad �175 for the two cylinderheads, that was from charltonautoparts.co.UK (2nd hand Jeep parts), if you go to jeep there about �270 each. It is a VM (boat) engine so there are four separate cylinder heads you will need to get checked for cracks and then the gasket now comes as one gasket rather than four separate ones. I have been told that you can reuse the head bolts again once as there not stretch bolts. Someone will disagree though. I Have had so many different opinions from different places. If you find jeep prices quite alot, have alook in the back of 4X4 magazines. Good luck, Sorry can't be of more help but then i am a girl!
There is a separate head for each cylinder. Mine overheated and two of the cylinder heads cracked and had to be replaced, I'd have the heads pressure tested before I replaced the gaskets, just in case. I got a garage to do it, mechanic said it was a straightforward job but heads were v expensive. Sorry can't be of more help.
under the dash pass. side look at heater you will see a plug with several wires that look like thy go into the heater there is a one screw plastic cover over this area so your feet dont hit it remove then uplug the wires then take the 2 screws out of oval shaped sensor and pull it out of heater you will see some transister on the back side and a little coil . replacing this will cure it usually . but first remove your heater blower and make sure it turns freely and not seizing.
under hood passengers side big black plastic cover , remove it wha la you are looking at it
Scan tool or battery disconnect. If not repaired the light will come back on.
This is not a job to be done by a backyard mechanic. The pressures are irrelevant as you will have to take this to a shop to be done anyway.
Not sure why anyone would say you need to take it to a shop just for a recharge. Since around 1995 when manufacturers started using R-134 "freon" instead of the old R-12, charging a system has gotten a lot easier. The fittings are different for the low side (suction) and the high side (pressure), so you can't connect to the wrong port.
You can get cans of R-134 from Wal-Mart for under $9.00 (12 oz.), and even get the lows side hose kit (usually blue in color to indicate low/suction/cold. But for about $17.00 at Autozone, they have a low side kit that has the "puncture" fitting to connect to the can, a hose that connects to the suction port on the car, and a built-in suction gauge marked for the desired suction pressure.
Basically, open up the puncture valve so it is back from where the can connects, connect it to the can, connect the other end to the car's suction port (only fits the correct port), then start the car. Run the A/C full on, windows down, max cool. Now, close the puncture valve so it pierces the top of the can, then as you open it up, R-134 will be sucked into the A/C system. You can probably point the can downward while it is filling, and you can always feel the hose-end of the can getting colder as freon enters the system.
Once the can feels real light, and the end doesn't feel cool anymore, you're probably done, Usually, if you had been feeling a small amount of cooling before, one can will be enough to fox things. Close the valve, tun the engine off, then disconnect the hose from the car. Replace the protective cap that was on thew valve in the first place - this protects the valve from dirt, but more importantly, it makes sure the freon doesn't leak out the service port. There should be a cap on the pressure point as well. If either cap is missing, get a replacement from an automotive parts store.
Don't let anyone tell you that you "have" to take it to a shop. As long as the "parts" are working OK, a recharge is pretty easy.
...................... Above is correct, and do not get discouraged if everything does not work perfectly (cold air) at first. Mine took a couple of days to re-lubricate the compressor and function correctly. The cost was $21.oo, and patience, instead of 350.oo at a shop.
[bjranson] Agreed. I just did it with a R134 can/pressure gauge kit from Walmart - $24. Very straightforward, and this is the first time I've ever done such a thing. The guy who said take it to a mechanic is probably a mechanic himself and doesn't want to lose business and hundreds of $ to DIYers. Either that or he's just scaremongering.
If it is like a 99, just remove the plastic panel behind the spare tire on the drivers side in the back. In one of the cut-outs you will see connector plugs that connect the harness to the tail lights. Good luck.
go behind the spare tire, there is a panel that has to be removed. You will see some black connectors in there. You can by a wiring harrness that will plug into there without any cutting of the factory wiring harness. These work fantasic, as I have one in my 2001 Cherokee. this is very easy to do has the new harness plugs right into the vehicles. You can find this wiring harness at Walmart or any parts store it is made by Hoppe. Good luck and I hope I helped you. Semper Fi
Hey Tony==The crank sensor is on the rear of some jeeps attached to the bell housing. It in itself won't cause overheating. If you have electric fans, make sure they are operating properly. Make sure the radiator is flowing coolant and not have a bunch of build up. Good luck Joe
Depends on the tire, are they directional tires? if yes then you have no choice but to go from front to back. If not you have the option of switching them across from left front to right back and right front to left back.
A few items you can check : Low on water Fan not running when the engine is warm/hot Stuck Thermostat A few items not so easy to check Blown Headgasket Clogged Radiator 260 is for sure at the top end of what I would consider acceptable for your vehicle. You don't state whether you experience this with the AC on or not and if you were running the AC that could explain it. Engines run hotter with the AC operating since your engine is then also driving the AC compressor.
Lets assume that your temp guage is working correctly....a bit of a dubious assumption but....
One of the first things that I would check would be to see if the thermostat is sticking and not opening fully when your engine gets warm. This would be the least expensive thing to look at and you can easily change the thermostat yourself. Here is a link to a site that very simply explains your cars cooling system: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system8.htm The thermostat is usually located at your engine block at the big hose that goes from the top of your radiator to the engine. Remove the hose and the thermostat will come off easily. Since you'll be taking off the top hose you won't be losing tons of coolant but do this when the engine is cool because a 260 degree bath of hot water will burn the hell out of you. Be prepared with some new coolant (premixed), a new thermostat and maybe a new hose clamp. As the link I included suggests you may be able to put the thing in a pot on the stove and warm up the water and see if it works.
The second thing to do is to have your radiator flushed out. You can do it yourself but all radiator shops and some Jiffy Lube type of places can also do it for you. Old antifreeze will break down over time and cause the little places inside your radiator to plug up resulting in corrosion to the inside of the radiator or at least reduced coolant flow.....it can also gum up your thermostat. If you havent had this done in some years its not a bad idea anyway. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure and all that ya know.
Beyond that you could be looking at other more expensive issues such as a radiator replacement or water pump replacement. Get it checked out at a local radiator shop to be sure expecially with the season changing and winter coming on. At the risk of irritating the reputable radiator mechanics out in the world I will tell you that its not too hard to sell a new radiator when all you really needed was a thermostat so if they want to charge a LOT think about a second opinion.
Hope this helps and Good luck to you!
No but street use only water or mud can crack the turbo.
It's probably the motor but needs to be checked out. I am certainly not an expert on these things but... I own a 2000 Lasabre that has been a good car but....the windows go bad. Both back windows stopped working and fell down. Luckily I had a neighbor who was good at fixing such things so we removed the door panel off and found that the cable the moved the window up and down was tracking poorly fraying it to the point it was off the track and broken. Rather than buy parts, and since it was the rear windows which came down only part way we reround the cable, put it back in, put the window in the up position and disconnected the motor. All has been fine since. Yesterday the passenger side front window dropped and won't come up...so today I am trying to get the door panel off and see if the cable on this window has also gone bad. Getting the panel off has been a challange. My take on the Lasabre windows....they are crap....the car has been great but it's automatic windows leave something to be desired. This problem is caused by a broken "up" cable on the window regulator. This regulator operates the window using a cable to pull the window up and a different cable to pull the window down. It is usually the "up" cable that breaks. This problem is REALLY bad in 2000 lesabre cars. The designer of the window regulator has the "up" cable attached to nothing more than a plastic piece. This piece will break sometimes with little or no good reason. (ie bump in the road, raising the window, etc.) Buick will not claim any responsibility for these regulators unless REALLY pressed but the fact is that they had/have a bunch of these go bad. R.Hand
It isn't very hard, just a little hard to get to the mounting bolts.Jeep CherokeeVery easy, I would make sure and change the bels as long as everything was removed. You, will have to remove the electric fan by removing the two top mounting bolts (trim screws) and un clipping the wiring harness. Also, you will need to remove the pulley (as I'm sure the new pump will have a bare shaft) the auto parts store should loan you a tool to do this with. The whole process took less than 90 minutes on my 98. Good luck
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