Jeep Cherokee

Up streem or Down streem. The up streem is right after the exhaust manifold attaches to the down pipe, and the down streem one is after the cat and before the muffler.

remove the black plastic liner in your front passenger side wheel-well...this can be done with the removal of a few screws or rivets..... The power antenna motor and assembly will then be easily accessed. Remove the old one (not much to it) and replace, sites such as Ebay offer new ones for under $40 dollars.

There is no actuator. The connection is made inside the transfer case when you put it in 4wd.

its either 355 or 373 there are tags on diff that give you numbers

The switch is either on the acccumulator or close to it. Just unplug it and short across the two wires. Don't run it this way for an extended period of time if it is low on freon as the compressor won't get lubricated and it will crater. GoodluckJoe

As you stand in front of your Jeep, the radiator drain plug sticks out the bottom of the left side. With a large gathering container on the floor, loosen the drain plug with an open-end wrench (or more suitable tool if you have one) only until the coolant flows through the spout, it's made so you don't have to (or want to) completely remove it. Now empty, you can either use a flush-N-fill kit, or if you're on a budget, run water at moderate pressure through a garden hose at the radiator cap opening for 20-30 seconds and let it drain. Tighten the drain plug and refill with a good mix 60/40 or whatever's best for where you live. [Take care to refill slowly - even though OEM radiators are supposed to purge air pockets, I had already installed a new aftermarket radiator and didn't want to take any chances. Air pockets can cause cooling system malfunctions and engine damage in a general sense, I'm not enough of a technician to list specifics.] Good luck !

The oil sending unit is on the bottom of the engine towards the back of the engine compartment. It's located under and slightly behind the distributor cap, and directly above the oil filter. If you still can't find it take it to a shop because you have no business working on the vehicle. The above statement is true for SOME, not all. The oil sendind unit on my 2002 4.0L is n the sparkplug side not far from where the oil dipstick enters the crankcase. It is nowhere near the oil filter. It is close to the firewall and hard to see. Look for the wire harness.

The quick answer is around $205 (if you live in the Phoenix area). But there are other things that come into play such as if the molding is included, if you have rain sensing glass etc. Additionally, the area you live in can affect the price as it will not be the same across the entire country.

under the dash - about where the drivers right knee would be on a left hand drive model.

check main fuses under dash and hood , if you recently had a remote starter system installed there are fuses for the remote system that might have blown last the main connection for power door locks could be disconnected its on the driver side either behind the plastic panel on left or above the gas pedal

You can order one through your local Chrysler Dealership. That's what I did. Or, for the tech savvy, order one through the Jeep website. You can download a copy for free(2004 and newer) or pay to order a hard copy.

It sends the proper signal to the ecu to allow certain curcuits to close to allow power to the acc, on and run positions with the key.

Yes there are Yes there are

your slave cylinder has gone bad and all your clutch fluid has leaked out,

start by removing the mesh over the speaker carefuly so not to damage it, use a flat headed screw driver and gently pry it off. then remove the screws holding in the speaker. your good to go then.

The part time transfer case in a 2004 Grand Cherokee was a NP242. To swap from a NP247 to a NP242 you may also need to change drive shafts and axle yokes.

Your owner's manual should have a layout for you to follow for the fuse location. Another thing to consider with backup lights is the neutral safety switch. My backup lights in my 96 classic started acting funny then stopped working, it ended up being the neutral safety switch.

Number 7 and 23 operate the lights, check them both, back up lights are not labeled.

It is on the same circuit as the brake lights, but if they are not working, and the bulbs are good your switch needs cleaning or adjustment.

Attempt this first since the switch costs nearly $300 bucks.

On the passengers side of the trans there is a fan shaped switch, loosen the 12mm bolt ( smaller of the two, and rotate the switch while a friend checks the lights. this problem is usually accompanied by an occasional inability to start the vehicle, but can be cured by jiggling the shifter.

While adjusting the switch make sure that the vehicle will start in park as well, remember to block the wheels while testing the back up lights, engine off, key in run but not start, shifter in reverse, move switch until lights come on.

Once you find this spot, hold it in place and have your helper check to make sure it will start. This may take several tries to get both working correctly.

If you have no luck the switch may be dirty, this happens a lot. Hold the post to the bottom large bolt still while you loosen the nut, then remove it, then remove the 12mm adjusting bolt on top, remove the wire connector and pull the switch away, remove the bolts on the switch and separate the halves, use electrical contact cleaner and maybe some q-tips to clean all the copper connections completely and reassemble, refit to the trans and readjust so all functions work, this switch controls back up and start safety.

Caution! always hold that bottom bolt while tightening the large nut, this is connected to the gear adjuster and you could damage the internals if it isn't secured while you do it.

This is not a job to be done by a backyard mechanic. The pressures are irrelevant as you will have to take this to a shop to be done anyway.

Not sure why anyone would say you need to take it to a shop just for a recharge. Since around 1995 when manufacturers started using R-134 "freon" instead of the old R-12, charging a system has gotten a lot easier. The fittings are different for the low side (suction) and the high side (pressure), so you can't connect to the wrong port.

You can get cans of R-134 from Wal-Mart for under $9.00 (12 oz.), and even get the lows side hose kit (usually blue in color to indicate low/suction/cold. But for about $17.00 at Autozone, they have a low side kit that has the "puncture" fitting to connect to the can, a hose that connects to the suction port on the car, and a built-in suction gauge marked for the desired suction pressure.

Basically, open up the puncture valve so it is back from where the can connects, connect it to the can, connect the other end to the car's suction port (only fits the correct port), then start the car. Run the A/C full on, windows down, max cool. Now, close the puncture valve so it pierces the top of the can, then as you open it up, R-134 will be sucked into the A/C system. You can probably point the can downward while it is filling, and you can always feel the hose-end of the can getting colder as freon enters the system.

Once the can feels real light, and the end doesn't feel cool anymore, you're probably done, Usually, if you had been feeling a small amount of cooling before, one can will be enough to fox things. Close the valve, tun the engine off, then disconnect the hose from the car. Replace the protective cap that was on thew valve in the first place - this protects the valve from dirt, but more importantly, it makes sure the freon doesn't leak out the service port. There should be a cap on the pressure point as well. If either cap is missing, get a replacement from an automotive parts store.

Don't let anyone tell you that you "have" to take it to a shop. As long as the "parts" are working OK, a recharge is pretty easy.

...................... Above is correct, and do not get discouraged if everything does not work perfectly (cold air) at first. Mine took a couple of days to re-lubricate the compressor and function correctly. The cost was $21.oo, and patience, instead of 350.oo at a shop.

[bjranson] Agreed. I just did it with a R134 can/pressure gauge kit from Walmart - $24. Very straightforward, and this is the first time I've ever done such a thing. The guy who said take it to a mechanic is probably a mechanic himself and doesn't want to lose business and hundreds of $ to DIYers. Either that or he's just scaremongering.

If it's the same as a 1999 Cherokee.......... It's under the dashboard to the left down of the steering wheel. There are about 4-6 screws that hold a small panel a 10 - 12 inches square or so. Hard to see down there. If you can get the panel off go to a auto parts place and the will.... Hopefully take it out and replace it for you. That is if it's the same as a 1999 Jeep Cherokee. Hope this helps some.

The fan relay is actually behind the passenger side headlight, in front of the fuse box. You need to remove the headlight in order to get to the relay. This just happened to my 99 jeep grand Cherokee yesturday lol.

If you have a regular jeep radio system in it,you can simpley use a pen to push the hour and minute buttons. These are located right under the slot for the CD or right above the eject button.

My son's went out, and here's how he did it. You'll have to remove the dashboard panels (look for the exposed screws). When you get to the headlight switch, reach to the right side of the switch itself (behind the dash); there's a release button there. Press it as you pull the plunger completely out. The hole where the plunger went in has large Phillips head slots; put a screwdriver in it and turn left and completely remove. The switch is now loose; disconnect it on the left from the wiring harness plug.

Typical H4 conversion is very simple. Pull the screws around the headlight bevel and remove it. Pull the screws on the headlight pull it out, disconect the the actual light. replace with the H4 housing and light in the oposite order.

On an automatic 1997 Jeep Cherokee with the inline 6 cyl 4.0L the neutral switch is combined with the Park and reverse switch. To repair the switch, unplug the harness from the top of the engine near the transmission dip stick. The switch is located on the passenger side of the transmission, right on the side. There is a bolt and a nut which must be removed, the bolt is for adjustment of the switch position and is near the top. The larger nut (Collet type) is near the bottom and is centered over an oval shaped shaft protruding from the transmission... BE WARNED!!!! these switches are VERY EXPENSIVE (~$160)!!!! so tread carefully and try not to break it. Mine was seized to the shaft and broke into about 8 pieces, luckily I have the know how to be able to repair them. You can free up the switch from the shaft with penetrating oil and pry against the loosened nut with a screwdriver while taping lightly on the shaft to back the switch off of the shaft. Inside the switch there is a problem where the grease gells over time and the wiper contacts stick away from the base contacts therefore they do not always make connection. Once you get the switch off in one piece, it is easily serviced by removing the screws on the back and slowly opening the case. Some of my screws were frozen and I had to break them off and drill out the holes, you may be lucky and get the screws out without this problem. When you have the switch apart I suggest you use a clean surface and put some cardboard down to catch any parts that fall out. Once open, you will see 2 copper wipe plates on the wiper arm, slowly remove them and under them you will see a spring for each side. Clean all the surfaces with brake cleaner or WD-40, you can burnish the contacts with a very fine 340 grit sandpaper. Once done reassemble putting a VERY thin layer of grease on the contacts to help prevent corrosion and allow the contacts to slide easier. Once you have put the module/switch back on make sure that the adjuster bolt is set in the right place... Put it on and make sure the reverse lights come on and it cranks in park. Tighten the adjuster bolt and put the nut back on and double check. NOTE: make sure you plug the harness back in or nothing will work lol. I want to add that the hardest part is getting the switch off. When you remove the Collet nut be sure to release it first by prying back the tabs on the retaining nut. (Note: when reinstalling, this nut is to be re-tightened to ONLY 5 INCH pounds!) After removal of the Collet nut, spray some parts buster or WD-40 onto the shaft area and let it sit. Put the Collet nut back on but not all the way tight and use a screw driver to pry the unit forward from the shaft SLOWLY!. Don't get carried away when it starts moving. When reinstalling put some never seize on the tranny output shaft in case you have to do this in the future.