Check under the drivers door side under the vehicle for the fuel line. It has a canister type fuel filter.
I had the same problem. Putting in a new starter relay and changing out the battery cables fixed the issue.
I don't know of a kill switch but there is a crank sensor.
I had this same problem First check the fuse. Second check the 4.8 amp circuit breaker at the bottom of the fuse panel (these are common to go out but you have to get them at the dealer and they run about $30.00)Third check the switch with the switch key on wiper switch on take your test light and pierce the coating on the wire if those three thing are good your should get power on your test light no juice the check those three again. Finally take the motor hook it up with jumper wires to the battery, be sure you know which wire is hot when you do this. I dont know what colors are which you could consult a Haynes or Chilton manual for this
fuel pump could be faulty, my jeep is very common to have issues when i hit the GAS PEDAL or try to take a sharp turn, the fuel gauge went down, i had to replace the fuel pump 2 times because of hard starting, but my jeep never died, if it isn't the fuel pump, it could be fuel filter, try to check the fuel delivery system.AnswerI've got a 86 comanche. I've had it for 4yrs now. the only problum I've had is I hit some pot holes at work and it killed the coil. I've hit alot of holes since then and havn't hand any more trouble
sorry DEC also if it's a 2.5 MJ , check your gound wires that connect to the rear of the head..... they have been left off before !! just touching the block...the thing would stsrt and run but go around a corner or hit a bump and she would shut down and hard to start !
If it's like mine it's got a loose connection on the fuel pump inside the tank. Take the pump out of the tank , run the truck close to empty first , there are some electrical connections that come loose . I discovered this after I bought a new pump, when I removed the pump I realized the problem. I made the repair and returned the new pump, made the fix over a year ago, no more problems since.
Oil blow by is common as the Jeep ages. One thing to help that is to remove the valve cover and thourghly clean it out along with the rubber gomets and hose or ptubing that attaches to it. You might need to replace the grommets the checkl your air box and make sure it is clean as well
The Catalytic Converter is bad (clogged). Loss of power the hotter it runs? Its creating back pressure do to the clogging.
I would try to use small tack welds all the way around the latch if I had to weld it...but my advice is to hold the fuel door in place, or have someone hold it for you, and then drill two small holes through the hinge and into the body of the car, and screw two small metal screws into place. If the heads of the screws are getting in the way, you can grind them down with a small rotary tool or likewise to where about 1mm is left of the screw, and that should solve your problem.
The Jeep Comanche came out in 1987 with a AMC 4.0L in line 6 cylinder engine. This engine is a perfect fit for the 1986 Comanche. My 1986 4x4 was originally shipped with a Renault Diesel engine. The engine was pulled and replaced with the 1987 AMC 4.0L in line 6 which is still running at 260 000KM. These engines can be picked up for anything from $200 - $2000. But why not sell your Comanche and buy a 4.0L in line 6 with 4x4.
go to auto zone and they will print out a diagram for free
First you need to remove the trim around the instrument cluster,and heater controls. This ia one solid piece and there are a few screws holding in in place. Once you remove that the stereo should be able to be removed and wiring exposed
Simply put... nowhere.This model year of Comanche only came with a 2.5 litre 4 cylinder motor or the sad GM 2.8 litre V-6 engine. Neither are worth "hopping up". That being said, there may be some GM guys that would tell you that the old 2.8 motor can be improved, but that will have to come from a GM guy... which I admit that I am not.But I suspect that unless you've got deep pockets, this is not a practical pursuit.AddendumRecently I replaced a defunct 2.8L V6 engine in a 1986 Jeep Comanche (automatic transmission, 2WD with a "GM Performance Parts 'Crate Engine'", which was a 3.4L V6 partial assembly engine which was designed as a bolt-up drop-in replacement for the 2.8L engines which were the main engine for the early Chevy S-10 pickups.
This engine cost me an even U$2000.00 with an installation charge (3rd-party) of a bit over U$1000. The engine is shipped in a crate to the destination. You have to remove most of the exterior fittings from the old engine, including both manifolds, though optional manifold choices to replace the old stock parts are available, including a nice light aluminum Edelbrock manifold designed to accomodate a Holley 390CFM 4-bbl carb. The engine's excellent 100K-mile warranty will be voided if you use throttle-body injection. I stuck with the original manifold but will be replacing the lousy progressive-carb VaraJet 2-bbl with a Weber DGAS 38 synchronized 2-bbl carb. The stock engine is rated at 155 horsepower. After the engine swap, for the first 1200 miles I experienced a lot of rough running, but the power improvement was apparent, especially in terms of low-RPM torque. By the end of the 1200 miles of break-in (I babied it, okay? with oil changes at 300 and 600 miles) the engine runs almost smoothly at idle and is a very very strong puller. But due to the 3-speed transmission (A MOPAR TorqueFlite A-904, I think) and the wide gearing and the load-hauling DANA 80 rear-end, this will never be a race machine. Instead, it is a versatile and adaptable light hauling vehicle. With the old 2.8L (172 c.i.d.) engine I could easily haul a full bed of topsoil, I'm sure it's much more easy now. I should mention that as long as you keep the RPM fairly low, this engine has a _lot_ of power, all you need for a light utility pickup. Winding it out is pretty much a waste of time and engine. Just kick it hard through first gear and let it drop into 2nd, kick it as hard as you can without downshifting, you should be going 45 pretty quickly and if you let off the gas it will drop into converter-locked in 1:1 drive gear, and at that point it has _very_ nice power as long as you don't kick it down into 2nd, which over 50 will simply shake you half to death and not give you much more speed. Between about 45MPH and 65MPH, this thing just runs down the highway with as much as you can load into it and still keep the front wheels on the ground. Hills are not a concern.
What is a concern is that you get the electric fuel pump installed correctly. This replacement Crate Engine doesn't have a mechanical fuel pump and it's not an option. So, get the fuel pump recommended by the Crate Engines site for the engine. Also, find some place to mount it other than inside the engine compartment; on a hot day the temperature will get up around the boiling point for gasoline, and the pump also gets that hot, or hotter. It's not designed to pump vapor. You will get vapor lock, this happens to me all too often. But there aren't too many better places unless you want to re-fit the fuel line into the engine compartment from the fuel tank. (You could possibly rig a cooling fan, not that bad an idea.) The ideal place would be where the fuel line comes out of the gas-tank but you will need to fabricate some sort of protective cover for it if you do that. Also, be sure to use a 4-connector oil-pressure sensor switch to make sure that the pump doesn't operate unless the engine's turning. Otherwise you could find yourself with a stopped engine and perhaps a severed hose, after an accident, with the fuel-pump still working and possibly feeding a fire in the engine compartment. If you install a close-mounted cooling fan to deal with pump heating problems in the engine compartment, this oil-pressure sensor switch control for the fuel pump is probably essential. Also, don't forget to make sure that the carb is fed by a T-fitting so that unused gas will be returned to the tank as in the original design, via the unused-fuel return tube.
If you have one of these and want to fix it up, I recommend replacing the A-904 with a RH-40 (basically the heavy-hauler hydraulic-control modern TorqueFlite with overdrive and locking torque-converter), getting the GM 3.4L Crate Engine, replacing the crappy VaraJet with a Weber DGAS 38 2-bbl, and possibly replacing the rear-end with something geared for better gas mileage.
A shift-kit and perhaps some diddling of the transmission control module might enable you to get torque-converter locking in any gear, and much sharper shifts, and in fact a kickdown-suppress switch might be very useful to help you get the most out of the excellent low-speed torque after the engine swap.
Today's date is October 13, 2005 and this ad is on eBay today:
WINDOW MOTOR JEEP Cherokee, 84-86
starting price is 55.00 and buy it now is 80.00; at the time of purchase you let the seller know which window you need the motor for. I assume that means they have them in stock.
I just had this problem, the fuse is in position 11 in fuse box, 25 amp, mine read HDLP on fuse box. Both the daytime headlights and horn on same fuse.
The parking brake adjustment on a Jeep Comanche is where the cable is split from the one main cable to the two wheel cables. The splitter assembly is bolted to the bottom of the bed, slightly forward of where the driveshaft attaches to the rear axle. To do the adjustment you will need at least one 13mm open-end wrench and probably two if the locking nut is still there. Because this assembly is exposed to whatever the roads may have to splash on it, you may need a pair of vice-grips too. The vice-grips are used to hold the squared end of a threaded rod if it wants to turn while doing the adjustment. Anyway, depending on how many nuts are still present, the idea is to tighten the one that is in the cable splitter until you have the correct amount of slack in the wheel cables. Make sure that there is still some slack because you don't want the brakes being applied when they are not supposed to be. A good adjustment is when you step on the pedal and start to feel resistance at about half-way down. Try to be in the habit of only using as much pressure as necessary to hold your truck for the conditions at each stop. The release mechanisms on Comanches are notorious for breaking off when constantly used to release heavily-applied parking brakes.
I had a similar problem with mine. As well the engine would rattle just after stepping on the gas only. I suspected rocker arms. Retorquing them did help with power but did not solve the problem. After tearing things apart, and my truck dying, I discovered the cause of the problem, the connecting rod bearings. 2 bearings where spinning and one was fused to the crank. The slop in these bearings was making all the noise. Interestingly the rattle always sounded like it was coming from the back of the engine or on the passenger side of the engine, not the bottom where I would have expected it to be coming from. I hope that helps.
go to earlycj5.com and search, lots of jeepster folks and some tech articles which should get you there.
Edit: Will it work? Yes - especially if it's the 4.0. Is it legal? NO. In California, the law prohibits installing an older motor than the year of the project car. I.E. you can install a 1993 motor in a 1984 vehicle BUT you CAN'T install a 1995 motor in a 1987 vehicle. It may be legal in other states so check with your local DMV to make sure BEFORE you drop the cash on that swap.
The "part-time" indicator light illuminates when the vehicle's transmission is positioned into the 4 wheel drive status. Once the vehicle is returned to 2 wheel drive the front hub locks disengage and the indicator light goes out.
Neutral safety switch is on the passenger side of the transmission oddly enough. It is delicate and can be easily broken as it is made of bakelite material and will not take much stress. DO NOT PRY on this device when making adjustments. They cost in the range of $180 to replace. Keep in mind that this same switch is what turns on the backup lights as well as allowing the Jeep to start in Park. So if you have trouble with backup lights AND/OR the thing won't start in Park (but will in Neutral) this is the likely culprit. Here is a link to some pictures so you know what you are looking at. http://newton.tek-ed.com/jeep/thumb0001.htm And here are some generic instructions from a fellow Jeeper (thanks to Ed Kummel for the following post): "The device is on the passenger side of the transmission opposite of the shift linkage. If the underside of your Jeep is like mine, then the shaft that this device is on is gunked and corroded and difficult to remove. If you're lucky, then you won't really have to remove the device. To adjust the switch, you will need several people (at least two) Loosen the bolt at the top. The hole is slotted which will allow for ~a little~ ammount of play. Have one person in the car with their foot on the brake and the shifter in reverse (with the key on of course). Have the second person behind the car looking for the reverse light. You are under the car moving the switch through the slotted play. When the person in the back sees the reverse light, top moving the switch and tighten it down...and hopefully you're done! If this doesn't fix your problem, then you will need further work. Removing this thing is a real problem. The metal is a cheap pot metal and the plastic is bakelite. So, it will shatter with a minimal amount of force. Plus the wiring harness is wire-tied to the main harness leading up to the engine compartment! So, don't force it!"
110 ft pounds except no 11 it is 100
Yes I swapped a bench from a '91 into an '89, mounts were the same. I understand that you just can't go Comanche to Cherokee, and vice versa.
If you *know* the alternator is good, like you just replaced it, or removed it and had it tested down at the autoparts store, then it could be any number of problems. Check all cables and connections between the battery and alternator. This includes cleaning the connection terminals on the battery (they make a special wire brush for this purpose). If that is all done and the problem still exists, then it is probably a bad battery. Check the fluid levels in the battery, if they are fine then take it down to the autoparts store and have it tested as well.
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