I figured it out. The drain plug does not take a standard size that we have here in the U.S. My 3/8 ratchet was just a little to large to fit into the plug opening. I took a 3/8 bolt and squared it off using my bench grinder (basically ground the threads off of the bolt). I only took a little off each side and on my third attempt the bolt fit the opening. Then, I put a 9/16 socket on the bolt head and was able to loosen the drain plug. The bolt also works to loosen the fill plug. The transmission is in a 1987 Jeep Comanche. It's my sons truck and he got it stuck underwater in a creek bed and water got into the transmission and the engine oil pan. We got almost 8 gallons of water out of the cab with the shop vac after he drained at least that much water from the cab when I pulled him out of the creek. (I think he enjoyed it anyway.)

behind the driver seat its a smal black jack that is to small to work for most comanches

yes Chrysler was a dumb company for this one

I found it to be the throttle sensor on mine. Cost me about $40. And put it on myself. It's looks like a small wire harness under the end of the airintake hose coming from the airfilter box.

i would say its your coil check it for spark if no spark then check it for power Ah, but what is the reason for no power? This really sounds like the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), which is notorious for crapping out in these engines. I'm replacing the CPS in my 1988 Jeep Comanche 4.0L tomorrow morning. I have the exact problem noted: I have just replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor (once every ten years!), the thing cranks strongly, and yet I've got no spark. I told my Comanche Brother (also has a 1988) that the Jeep won't start and it feels like a sensor problem ... and he said, "Crankshaft Position Sensor." That's when I remembered the same doggone thing causing me a no-start condition about ten years back. The CPS is about $35 -- I just bought one. When you read up on the CPS, I think you'll find your symptoms noted. Provided that this fixes my no-start condition, I'll be getting another and keeping it handy. Update on the 1988 Comanche that would not start ... it started right up. The funny thing is that I didn't even get to change out the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) yet, because it was too cold for that mess today. But here's the thing: it (the no-start condition) was related to the CPS. Since it was too cold to fool around on the engine block today, I unplugged and replugged the CPS connector a couple of times to see if that would get the truck started -- and it did on the first crank. I read about this trick on-line somewhere, and I'll be darned if it didn't work. That's definitely one to remember! In my truck, the CPS connector is right up on top, just to the driver's side of the line of cylinders, back toward the firewall, and just forward of what looks to be the main wiring harness. Son of a gun.

Most new coolant is tinted red or green. If you have a different color than that look into it a little further. You may have oil in you coolant causing it to be a brown color.

Yes

Jeep did not make Wrangler for model year 1996. ... Exactly! I thought this was a trick question. The Jeep Wrangler (YJ) was made from 1987 through 1995. In 1996, Jeep gave the the Wrangler a complete overhaul and in 1997 the Wrangler was re-released as the TJ and now known as the JK. I guess the powers at Jeep listened to the people when they said how much they hated the SQUARE headlights! By the way, what does JK stand for? Just Kidding?

It should be right behind the grill. It is on a 1986.

I had a similar problem with mine. As well the engine would rattle just after stepping on the gas only. I suspected rocker arms. Retorquing them did help with power but did not solve the problem. After tearing things apart, and my truck dying, I discovered the cause of the problem, the connecting rod bearings. 2 bearings where spinning and one was fused to the crank. The slop in these bearings was making all the noise. Interestingly the rattle always sounded like it was coming from the back of the engine or on the passenger side of the engine, not the bottom where I would have expected it to be coming from. I hope that helps.

Peugeot BA 10/5

Usually a Dana 35, unless it has the metric ton package. Then it would have the Dana 44.

No if you want the maintence intervals buy a haynes manual or check if you have the owners manual

Generally if your headlights don't work, and the headlamps are still good themselves, the "Headlamp dimmer switch" is the culprit. It is located under the dash, attached to the left side of the steering column. It has a rod coming from the combination switch going into it.

However, this switch only deals with the low/high beam headlights. If your marker lights are also not working then either the park/tail fuse is blown, and/or your headlamp switch is still faulty and needs to be replaced.

The Haynes manual has a wiring diagram for the entire circuit. I'd recommend picking it up.

6 quarts

The Jeep Comanche came out in 1987 with a AMC 4.0L in line 6 cylinder engine. This engine is a perfect fit for the 1986 Comanche. My 1986 4x4 was originally shipped with a Renault Diesel engine. The engine was pulled and replaced with the 1987 AMC 4.0L in line 6 which is still running at 260 000KM. These engines can be picked up for anything from $200 - $2000. But why not sell your Comanche and buy a 4.0L in line 6 with 4x4.

stock, and if truck's a 4x4, may be lucky to fit 31's, look into rims with 4 in. backspace, more turning clearance.

You can test the fuel pump by touching the positive wire on the positive post of the battery. You will need to ground the ground wire.

you need to remove the caliper. then use one of the old pads along with a c clamp. put the old pad on the caliper piston then apply the c clamp till the caliper piston is completely closed. install new pads then reinstall the caliper. do the same for the other side. once you are finished crank up the vehicle and pump the brakes up until they are firm before you move the vehicle.

if your pan has a drain plug at the back of it drain the ATF first otherwise loosen the 19 bolts that hold the pan up, then remove the rear most and gently pry down on the back of the pan and let the ATF drain that way. Then remove the remaining bolts and wiggle the dipstivk tube apart ( the dipstick tube is connected to the pan and about 4 or 6 inches up there is a separation point on the tube it will come apart at the same time you want to quit). Then remove th pan being careful not to dammage the wires on the driver side inside the pan. clean up the pan and gasket mounting surface on the trans and trans pan. install new gasket and add about 5 qts. of merc./ dexron III or chrystler ATF +4 and your done.

Diagnostic port of the ECM is in the left front fenderwell close to the headlight.... The bad part.... The ECM is tucked up behind the instrument cluster on the firewall behind the drivers side dash board.... Have fun!

Yes I swapped a bench from a '91 into an '89, mounts were the same. I understand that you just can't go Comanche to Cherokee, and vice versa.

Remove the transmission to excess the inturnal slave cylinder

You are an idiot. What sort of answer were you expecting when you submitted gibberish?

Under the hood on the drivers side is the engine wiring harness. Disconnect bolt from the center it has 1/4" head. Pull out both connectors together. Under the dash on the drivers side the fuse box has two screws , top left and lower right, which hold box to firewall.