it will feel like a misfire but should not cause a single cylinder misfire code. a bad maf ( mass air flow ) would and can set random multiple misfire codes, lean bank 1 and 2 just like a clogged fuel filter or restricted exhaust ( cat )
In a car with manual gearbox, the brake pedal is usually in the middle. In my first car, the accelerator was in the middle, which caused a few 'interesting' moments!
In American cars with automatic transmission, the brake is on the left and the accelerator on the right. On a standard transmission (stick-shift), the brake is in the middle, with the clutch on the left and accelerator on the right.
No. Buy a new bag.
Ford says to flush the transmission through completely with Mercon V fluid. In other words, replace every drop of Mercon III fluid tha it came with, for Mercon V. You cannot get away with just dropping the pan and doing a service. That only removes about 6 quarts of fluid. That transmission holds about 15 quarts, so you have to use a flush machine to run it through. After you exchange all the fuid out for Mercon V, then it will take about 500 miles for the shudder to improve. And then Ford charges you $350 for a fluid change that doesn't help and just might destroy the tranny in a car that age. Ford has a bulletin on this, your torque converter is going out and it will only get worse. Just add some GM 'Limited Slip Additive' to your tranny, will work wonders. There are some transmission specific additives out there too, just haven't tried them myself. -motoman22
ALOT OF AFTERMARKET PCV VALVE ARE USED BY MORE THAN ONE VEHICLE. KIND OF A UNIVERSAL FIX THROUGH MANUFACTURES. IT'S LISTED FOR YOUR CAR AT AUTO PARTS STORES BUT, PEOPLE WITH OTHER VEHICLES USE THE SAME PCV VALVE. MOST PEOPLE JUST PLUG IT OFF TO STOP VACCUUM WHEN IT IS NOT USED. OTHER VEHICLES BOTH ARE USED. LOOK AT OTHER PCV VALVES AT THE NEXT AUTO PARTS STORE YOU GO TO FOR A BETTER UNDERSTANDING. NOW PCV VALVES COME WITH THEIR OWN PLUGS DEPENDING ON APPLICATION. THE SECOND TAP CONNECTION OFF OF THE PVC VALVE IS USE FOR THE EVAP SYSTEM,THAT SYSTEM VENTS FUEL VAPOR BACK INTO THE ENGINE TO BURN AFTER ENGINE IS RESTARTED,IT IS AN EPA EMMISIONS ADD ON..........
Type 'F' ATF.
Yes. Look on the rear axle for a tag. It will be bolted to the rear cover. If it has the numbers (example) 3 L 27, or any combination of numbers with a L as a second digit it should be a locking type differential. These are fairly uncommon in non Police vehicles.
The locking differential can be found on non-Police Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis models which came equipped with the optional trailer-towing package.
Also, if the door sticker is still on the drivers door, it should have something that says "Axle" with some numbers below it. you can see which differential you have with that incase the above mentioned tag is missing.
yes it has a rear differential,it"s rear wheel drive! If it was an old cop car then yes it has a posi-trac rear end with 350 gears. If it is a standard crown vic with a 302 engine then it does not have a posi.If it has a 351 winsor engine it is an old cop car. The easy way to make it a posi is to buy a rear from an old cop car at the junk yard and install it in your car!!
I believe the Trailer Towing package also provided a limited slip differential. Are you certain about the gear ratio's being 350, not 373?
Please note that in 1989, Ford Crown Vic cop cars were also equiped with the 5.0 litre 302 H.O. motor. The only REAL way to tell a 1989 standard model from a police model is by checking the VIN number thru the windshield. If the number contains "P72" then it is a police model, if it contains "P74" then it is a standard model. The easiest way to tell if your ride has Posi or not is to check the rear differential cover for a limited slip tag. Good luck.
YOU MIGHT WANT TO START LOOKING FOR AN INTAKE GASKET LEAK, NOT A FUEL DELIVERY PROBLEM
Remove Your Air Filter, If You See A Liquid Squirt or bubble up, Or smell gas, then its the plugs
What is the problem? Why are you limiting the problem to those 2 areas of concern?
If it is the electronic fuel pump that is the problem you will not hear the fuel pump humm as you turn the key in the ignition. Replace the fuel pump which is located inside the gas tank.
after you have replace the pump and it doesn't humm what else could be the problem
the fuel pump could still humm but it could be weak. there is a pressure valve on the fuel line behind the intake. put a pressure tester on it. if it is over 45 lbs. then your fuel pump is ok.
yes, but you may need to add lifters, you can get the twist in kind from any parts store for around 10 dollars
walmart, get a can of r-134-a airconditioner refrigerant, cause on your compressor, you have a low end pressure valve that you hook the tube from the can up to and it charges the air conditioner on the vehicle
Energystar.gov provides a basic checklist to help you determine if it's time to replace your existing heating/cooling system. Consider replacing if: Your heat pump or air conditioner is more than 10 years old Your furnace or boiler is more than 15 years old Your equipment needs frequent repairs and your energy bills are going up Some rooms in your home are too hot or too cold No one is home for long periods of the day and you do not have a programmable thermostat Your home has humidity problems Your home has excessive dust Your heating or cooling system is noisy [ENERGY STAR a government-backed program helping businesses and individuals protect the environment through superior energy efficiency]
You shouldn't have to remove any screws..It should just pop off. You may have to use a slot screwdriver to pry it loose.
Some hubcaps have caps on the lug nuts that you have to unscrew. Then you can just pry it off with something. :)
Most New Cars don't have hubcaps, they really are just rims meant to look like hubcaps, in this case, there is no hubcap. Oftentimes, on trucks, vans and occasionaly cars, there are centercaps, which are similar to hubcaps, only usually, the center cap is not on a hubcap, but on a rim. These usually come off by just putting a screwdriver under it and popping it loose, however, some vehicals (Oftentimes trucks) have lugnuts holding the centercap in place, in this case, use a lugnut wrench.
It depends, Some hub caps you can take a large flathead screwdriver place between hub cap and rim and it will easily come off, others like he said above, have plastic caps that need to be taken off, then there are hub caps (example Buick) that have a center cap that comes off with a theft resistant screw. there is a special tool for these and if you bought the car off someone check the trunk where the spare is to see if it is there. on these types of hubcaps, three of the lug nuts hold on a metal piece that the theft resistant screw goes into. Remember to put it back on or your hub cap will fall right off.
Keep the shoes on your car happy :)
There are many cars now that have the hubcaps held on by the lug-nuts as well. all of the above are also correct. It all comes down to a matter of which design you are dealing with.
The thermostat is between a housing and the top of the engine, at the end of the upper radiator hose. There are two bolts on either side of the housing that need to be removed. The air intake (The black plastic cover, from the air filter to intake.) is in the way. There is one small bolt that needs to be removed (on the back/ passenger side) this should give you enough wiggle room to get at the housing bolt. Once the two bolts are removed, lift the housing out of the way and you will see the thermostat. Remove it and the gasket. Clean the surfaces if they require it, and place the new thermostat in. (the spring side goes into the engine) Replace the two bolts, and the air intake housing and you're done.
(if you start the car and it won't idle, some vacuum hoses have become attached. re-attach and it will idle fine.)
Low coolant? Plugged or restricted radiator? water pump not circulating coolant? Thermostat not opening fully? Defective radiator cap? Hoses collapsing under pressure?
Check the fluid. If it is full, the pump is worn and eventually will fail but it may last a good while longer. Check the fluid level first though.
answer sounds like wheel bearings are wearing out, or the steering column bearings inside the steering colum
If the vehicle is front wheel drive then you may also need to check the right and left side CV joints on the drive shafts..many times the rubber boots covering these joints degrade and crack allowing dirt/moisture to enter the joint and allow the grease to exit,this will cause a grinding noise when turning..If left unchecked the joints will fail and the car becomes undrivable...
There are 2 CV joints on each drive shaft one right behind wheel housing(hub) and one next to the transmission...
CV= (constant velocity)
Crawl under look at the pan bolt,drain plug, oil filter one or more may be leaking if it is your pan gasket you can take it to a local oil change place and have them replace it. Also, check the oil pan bolts...make sure they are tight. Also, there is an adapter plate on the driver's side where the coolant lines go into the engine and the oil filter attaches. On my '94, that adapter plate started leaking; replacing the gasket seems to have stopped the leak. Note carefully the source of the leak, and note that on some models there is an air deflector that can mask the true location of the leak. My leak seemed to be coming from ahead of the radiator until I took the air deflector off, then the location became obvious.
5 per wheel
The 1989 to 1991 Mazda 626 models, have a similar speedo cable setup. There are 2 kinds of cable. The first is a one-piece cable that runs from the transmission to the back of the speedo as one continuous length The second is a two-piece cable that has a 6 inch section from the transmission, connected to a 40 inch piece which goes to the dash. The care easily discernable because the two piece one has a large coupling on it, six inches from the transmission. To replace, simply slacken the nut on the cable from the transmission side first, using a 17mm open-ended spanner. Once off, pull the cable out of the tranny by leaning over it and gently punning it straight up. Then, remove the dash console by uncrewing all the screws. There are 4 to 5 screws, found on the underside of the dash, in front of the gauge cluster. Once off gently pull the finiher off exposing the gauge pod. It's an all in once pod of the gauges with a clear plexiglas cover. (Take care not to scratch it while handling it) The cluster itself is held to the dash by four screws. These are clearly visible in the four corners of the gauge pod. Once removed, pull the pod to you (sitting in the drivers seat) slowly. It is still connected via electrical connections. These must be unpluged so you have to reach behind the gauge pod using as little space as possible. Once unplugged, the final attachment is the speedo cable itself. It's connector is round and thick and either yellow or white plastic. There's a tab to one side that must be pressed to release it. Press the tab and pull the cable away from the gauges. ( Away from you/ towards the windsheild. ) Once it's out you can freely slacken any cable clips holding the speedo cable unser the hood and along the firewall. Pull the now free cable back through the firewall towards the engine. Handle the cable clips carefullyt and re-use them as they arent sold with the cable and are hard to source. Just repeat the process in the reverse for installation.
http://market.autopartsfair.com /ford-transmissions/find_product.html?model=crown_victoria&year=1992 Sorry, I don't know how you can tell the difference. You may have to dig into the details on the URL above and see what the differences are. You could also go to a transmission shop and ask them, I went to a local AAMCO and they were more than helpful in telling me which tranny I had.
Arguably, Bentley and Rolls-Royce are the top ultra-luxury brands. For a budget, people go for Lexus' or Audi's.
With engine oil filter change , 5.0 quarts ( 4.7 liters )
The lower bolt is no problem. It's the top part that is really hard. There is just enough space between the frame to get in there. If you do not have the tool's, then your local garage would be a good thing. If you have air suspension, the plastic line runs close there. So using a torch to cut the top shaft of the shock has to be done very carefully.
While anything is possible with enough money and determination, the practical answer in this case is NO.
Remove the trans pan and then the filter.
If the pan is on the front of the transmission, it cannot be replaced without rebuilding the transmission; because the bearings must be removed in order to get to the filter.
Ford Contour transmissions do not have removeable filters. There is a metal screen which generally never needs to be replaced.
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