You might want to check on the side right beside the vent. There is a switch that goes up and down with a solid square on top and an open square on the bottom. This controls whether or not your vent is open or closed. Just try sliding the control to the open square and that should open up your vent. If that doesn't work then something could be blocking your vent. Such as a clog.
On the differential there should be a plug with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch square on it that you can use a socket wrench to remove, just stick your finger in and feel if there is fluid. If there is no fluid, fill to that level.
Not running on all cylinders? Check plugs, plug wires Do a compression test
2 buckets in front- 60/40 split in the back (5 PASSENGERS)
Just for anyone asking this question in the future it does seat 5 people, 2 buckets up front and a bench for 3 in the back. It is not a 60/40 split bench it is all one piece. It really turns out to be 4 adults and maybe 1 really small child.
It is under the hood on the right (passenger side) of the vehicle up next to the fire wall to the rear of the coolant recovery tank. Do not turn the freon canister upside down when filling this port and the engine is running. It will cause liquid to go to the pump and destroy your pump. Make sure you wear safety glasses and gloves when you work with this, as the freon absorbs huge amount of moisture and it will absorb quickly into your eyes if sprayed or spilled. The high pressure connection is on the side of the A/C pump near the front of the engine on the left (driver's) side.
Hello, I just changed mine and it was so simple that it blew me away. All the time I was looking for the same answer as you and then I discovered the problem is that the blasted thing doesn't have a speedometer cable. It has what is called a speed sensor and it is a real easy fix. I got mine from AutoZone for the price of $47.99. It is located on the tailshaft of the transaxle on the drivers side of the vehicle. It is held into the transfer case with the traditional single bolt that holds the fork that is common to many speedometer cable installations. It has a plug with two wires that you will have to disconnect. With the fork off and the wire plug disconnected simply pull out the plug that holds the speedo-gear. Once off the vehicle you will see a large nut that you need to remove to separate the sensor from the housing. It will go very smoothly for you so don't be afraid to do it yourself. It took me less than 10 minutes total time spent once I knew what to look for. . Steve
e heat echgers go bad in the seat, call the a jeep dealer it might be a recal. it is in my 2001.
This problem was a recall issue for Chrysler and they should repair it at no cost. You're lucky!!!! The seat heater has two fail modes...stops working or seat catches on fire.
4.0L - 6 quarts 10w30
5.2L, 5.9L - 5 quarts 10w30
4.7L - 6 quarts 5w30
5.7L - 7 quarts 5w20
3.6L - 6 quarts 5w30
4.0L - 6 quarts 10w30
5.2L, 5.9L - 5 quarts 10w30
4.7L - 6 quarts 5w30
5.7L - 7 quarts 5w20
3.6L - 6 quarts 5w30
You do not have to do all four unless you think you need to. Although, I wouldn't do three, only two, four, or one.
If you haven't found the answer to your question, yet, try this web site. http://www.wjjeeps.com/liftgate.htm I am having the same problem and this site has the best information and photos that I've found. Thanks I looked at this website before I entered the question. It is helpful and I wish I would have seen it when I changed out my 2000 Jeep. The 2005 Jeep has been changed and I cannot find the release lever.
You need to loosen a couple of things, but its pretty straight forward. The bolt for the air tube junction so you can move the bracket, then you can take out the front fuel line, then simply unloosen the nuts to the fuel rail and slowly lift one end or the other. If its a middle injector take it off completely and use some Parker lube of vaseline and put them all back in lubed. Remember to mark/label you injector wires or just keep in mind where they go. I have used aftermarket ones with pretty good results, but I've learned look at them all closely cause after I've changed one, it didn't take long for another to go out. make sure you also change your fuel filter crap in the gas will clog them easily. later
Look under the hood at the power distribution center. Fuse #12 should be for the power windows.
Sounds like your problem is more than that...maybe a bad ground wire in driver's side door harness.
Just had the problem, no fuse or relay for the windows/lockszperiodz Most chances are the
black ground wire in the harness going to the inside of the door. Because it is greater in gage, it eventually breaks. Cut the rubber, find the break and put a splice between the breaks and all will be well. Just happened on my 2004 Grand Cherokee
Great tip. Just fixed my wife's jeep that had been without power windows for a while. Not an improvement on this answer, but I was able to pry the harness boot from the door insert. I immediately saw a broken black wire, but had to peel the rubber wire cover back toward the body and fish for the other end. It's tight in there. The boot will fight you but it will go back on. Cutting might be easier. Thanks for the tip.
My jeep just had the same problem.I solderd an a small piece of extra wire that's a bit more flexable than the heavy guage black ground wire ,as far as the boot getting in the way try grabbing the short wire with some vice grips as low as you can and it will keep the boot away giving you a little room to repair the wire.As far as putting the boot back on after the repairs are made if you pry the plastic housing that's in the door you can gain plenty of extra room to put the rubber boot back on and then just pop it back into the door.The rubber boot should not be cut as its there to keep water away from all the wires and whater else that shouldn't get wet.
i had exact same problem 11/25/2009. opened the rubber boot and there was the broken black ground. also, my interior lights would not shut off when i turned my lights on. once i corrected the door ground everything went back to normal. read about the plastic sleeve removal to replace the rubber boot. it will save you time.
I came across this issue as well and removing the boot i found the black wire to be broken. re attached it with a splice and all is well..
if your looking for a more flexible wire then the best wire you could use is the flexible speaker wire that is used on subwoofers. not the wire to run it from the amp but the wire that goes from the terminal on the speaker to the voice coil, it is a braided wire designed to be flexible. solder the wire on and then cover it with heat shrink, the problem shouldn't come back. i didnt try but you could also see if you can attach the ground to the door, i just didnt want to fool with it because it was dark and 5 degrees.
First, I'd like to thank prior contributors to pointing me in the right direction. I doubt I'd ever have gotten to the problem without the postings here. I had the same symptoms - windows wouldn't work and interior lights came on when I turned on the headlights. When I got inside the rubber boot I found that the yellow/purple wire had broken, not the black ground wire. I repaired the wire and all works OK. Again, thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
i am a reconditioner at a small used car dealership and i came across this same problem. opened up the black boot and reconnected the ground, just as the previous contributors mentioned. to anybody looking to improve their mechanical skill, whether you are a pro like me or a backyard warrior, screw all the fancy scanners, alldata or whatever. a internet search engine is a best tool any mechanic could ever have! whatever the problem was, internet research has bailed me out countless times and I'm looking forward to searching again! thank you!
Thanks for the info guy. I also had the same problem a few months, but it started with the power locks not working with the door open. I tested the ground and it was good. After pulling on the harness a couple of time I found the problem. Mine was the orange/white wire that was broken. Added a coupling and its working perfect. I appreciate all the help, you guy saved me from spending money on a mechanic for a simple fix. Thanks Phil
All this info was a problem solver for me. The only thing different is the wire that was broken on mine was orange/white and not black. It fixed the same problem above though. My only investment was $6.00 for the connector. Praise the Lord for an inexpensive fix.
185-210 depending on the thermostat you're using.
It may fit, but it is not plug and play. The computer and trans systems are different.
The oil sending unit is on the bottom of the engine towards the back of the engine compartment. It's located under and slightly behind the distributor cap, and directly above the oil filter. If you still can't find it take it to a shop because you have no business working on the vehicle. The above statement is true for SOME, not all. The oil sendind unit on my 2002 4.0L is n the sparkplug side not far from where the oil dipstick enters the crankcase. It is nowhere near the oil filter. It is close to the firewall and hard to see. Look for the wire harness.
pre 2001 diesels and petrol engines were chain driven...
cam belt change is not an issue
You unscrew the old filter, wet the seal on the new one with oil, and screw the new one on hand tight.
transmissions are tricky, this problem could be as simple as a missing or loose part, to a bad transmission alltogether. But either way, it will most likely have to come out and be fixed, rebuilt, or replaced. The only way to relly know is to take it to a specialist, theres no way around that. and changing the trans fluid will not help but it may have the wrong fluid in it also which can make it slip. im only a level 1 auto. tech. but i hope this helps you
Under the engine
according to motorweek the 2002 JGC in the overland trim averaged 118ft 60mph-0
According to the 2008 Ford Edge owners manual :
Front wheel drive ( 19.2 U.S. gallons / 72.7 litres )
All wheel drive ( 20.8 U.S. gallons / 78.7 litres )
At the base of the rod that is attached to the headrest, that slides into the top of seat, there is a small button (about the size of a fat flat-head screwdriver); push this in and lift. should come out that way.
Make sure the window lock button is not engaged on the drivers door. If the button is not engaged then there is a short on the window lock switch. Answer 2:Had to replace the complete drivers door switch assy.I believe rainwater from the driprail falling on the switches is the cause($255.00 from dealer)
They screw in from the rear. If you can't get to it you may have to take the light assy off.
The long way is the best way: You will need a medium Phillips screwdriver at minimum. A battery screwdriver/drill makes it faster. Needle nose pliers might help to resolve problems. There is no need to open the hood. Procedure:
1. From the orange side lamp take out the two screws hold it in, pull lamp away from frame. 2. Remove frame by taking out four screws, 1/near the grill in front, 2,3/ from the opening made by removing the side lamp, 4/the last from the bottom of the frame near the bumper. 3. Pull frame away exposing headlight. Remove four screws holding the bezel (thin metal frame around the headlight). 4. DO NOT turn the two adjustment screws, one on top in the middle between the two bezel screws, or the one the outer side. 5. The headlight then can be pulled away and disconnected. Connect new headlight. You may need to bend one or two of the three prongs to make it fit. Fit bezel to headlight, secure with four screws. Secure frame with three screws. Secure orange side lamp with two screws.
Problems: Screws may be rusted in place or break. Screws are easy to lose, put them in a container or other good place.
With a Phillips screwdriver undo only the two bottom screws on the bezel and carefully remove and secure them. Bend bezel upwards and away enough to remove headlight. Replace headlight. TRICKY part: You will definitely lose the two bezel screws UNLESS you stuff a paper towel or similar in the space below the holes to catch the screws if you miss getting it in. It would be best at this point to wait until you can do the full procedure at another time.
Otherwise, good luck!
I found this answer in a search...it is an exellent answer and I followed it to a good conclusion. Thanks.