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Failed water pump bearing.

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if you dont know, its too expensive

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Its under the spare tire.

IT'S UNDER THE BACK SEAT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE ON A 1995 GRAND CHEROKEE LIMITED!THE SEAT LIFTS UP AT THE BASE OF THE BACK PORTION!!

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I Have A 90 Marquis My Heater Core Was Behind The Fire Wall And Under The Dash Somewhere Behind The Glovebox. I Was Told The Whole Dashboard Would Have To Come Off To Replace It. For $400 I Couldnt Do It So I Jus Bought A Nice Sized Coat To Ride Out The Cold Mornings With. Hope I Helped!

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The above answer is pretty good but if you'd like some more detail read on!

There is a box of sorts which is located behind the passengers' side of the dash. Inside this box there are two heat exchangers. One which has hot engine coolant running through it for heating the air, the other is used by the A/C to cool the air. From your dash controls you select if you want heat or cooling and where to direct the air (windshield, vents, floor) and inside the box 'trap door' like flaps open and close to accomplish what you requested.

This box is bolted to the firewall (firewall is simply the sheet metal between you and the engine). If you open your hood and examine the passengers' side of the firewall behind the engine you should be able to find where 4 hoses are attached. Two of these hoses carry the hot coolant to and from the heater core, the other two carry the 'Freon' like gas to and from the A/C evaporator to cool the air. And if you look closely you may spot the bolts or studs that attach the heater box to the firewall.

Now if you were able to find everything, it starts to explain why changing the heater core which is inside that heater box is soo expensive! To get to the heater box parts of, if not all of, the dash have to be removed. Then there are wires and cables attached to the box which have to be carefully marked and removed without damaging them. From the engine bay the four hoses (BE CAREFUL!!! ENGINE COOLANT IS VERY HOT FOR HOURS AFTER THE ENGINE IS SHUT OFF AND CAN CAUSE SEVERE THIRD DEGREE BURNS, USE CAUTION!!!) must be removed. The A/C lines should be purged by a certified licensed mechanic to avoid release of gasses to the atmosphere (which is environmentally BAD and ILLEGAL too). Then the box must be unbolted from the firewall and removed from the vehicle. Once the box is out then you must disassemble the box to the point where you can remove the old heater core and install the new one also being careful to not damage any sealing gaskets around the heater core or box covers removed to gain access.

Whew!

You just replaced your heater core! Congratulations! But wait you still have to mount the box to the firewall, attach all hoses, cables, wires, replace lost coolant by filling the radiator, and have your A/C recharged!

On my 1988 Marquis, in September 2007, I was quoted $600 for this job by a local gas station, with a good reputation, on Long Island, NY.

Oh, and to explain as to why heater cores need to be replaced there are several reasons. Poor quality part to begin with, corrosion from not replacing engine coolant as per service schedule (few people realize that engine coolant becomes corrosive with age) or just a lot of years of service. A 1988 vehicle is now almost 20 years old! Two signs of a leaking heater core are a chokingly sick sweet vapor coming out your vents or the tell tale puddle on the carpet under the passengers' side dash.

One final note of caution: MOST ENGINE COOLANT IS TOXIC IF INGESTED!

ADULTS, CHILDREN, and PETS WILL DIE IF SWALLOWED!!! Do not dump anti-freeze anywhere. Take it to your local gas station or a town recycling center for proper disposal.

OK, how many of you that have read this are getting the yellow pages out to make an appointment to have it done professionally?!

Or if your adventurous... get at it!

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The jiggle valve's a small hole on the thermostat itself (not a separate part). It's merely there to help free the system of trapped air. Follow the hose from the top of the radiator to the motor and you should find the thermostat housing. Removing the housing will reveal the thermostat and at the top of the Tstat should be a small hole -- that would be the jiggle valve (if your thermostat actually has one).

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it is on the driver side of the bellhousing-near the top-it is hard to get to if you are under the trans you can look up and see it .you may have to drop the rear of the trans a little bit by unbolting the crossmember..good luck

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the receiver dryer and the orifice tube My 95 had a styrofoam liner in the evaporator box that had crumbled with age and plugged up not only the drain tube but the vent tubes. I would replace that as well as long as you have the dash apart. It is not a must but Personally I would consider replacing the heater core since you have to remove it to get the evaporator out anyway.

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5w30 or 10w30

5w30 or 10w30

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Chain

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Trouble code P1494 means: Leak detection pump pressure switch or mechanical fault

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Mopar® Brake/clutch fluid FMVSS No. 116, DOT-3 & SAE J1703.

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Look under hood for accessory belt diagram. Depress tensioner arm with 14mm wrench to loosen and remove belt. Depress tensioner arm to install new belt. Follow diagram for routing. Make sure belt is aligned and ribs are in any pulley groves.

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There are some umm what do you call them pop in holders that keep the light from just falling out when you remove that bolt. Its pretty simple once you get it out.. to put it back in you have to kind of pop it back in place. The rear has the same type pop in holders pull one of those off to see what i am talking about...

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if it is a 96 like mine it is on the top of the coolant resovoir. it is rounnd and has an electrical connector attached to it

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Since it is so high mileage I think I would just pull the pan and change the 4-6 quarts that are in the pan and replace the filter. If you go to a place that flushes transmissions, I have known that with the new fluid the lining comes off of the fiber plates.

. use atf+4 from Chrysler dealer or it destroys the clutches.

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Greetings well i have a jeep same model and the same happen to mines , and what i did was carefully pull the top dash board a part then unscrew the the plastic panel and took my hand and placed it back on the little pointer and it was all fine and good then just put the dashboard back together and then your finished

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My son's went out, and here's how he did it. You'll have to remove the dashboard panels (look for the exposed screws). When you get to the headlight switch, reach to the right side of the switch itself (behind the dash); there's a release button there. Press it as you pull the plunger completely out. The hole where the plunger went in has large Phillips head slots; put a screwdriver in it and turn left and completely remove. The switch is now loose; disconnect it on the left from the wiring harness plug.

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Depending on the type of shock, every 1 to 3 years.

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Sometimes the plug gets stuck pretty hard in the radiator and removal will damage the radiator. Just pull the lower rad hose and you will do the same thing.

Even though the Plug has a rib/tab down the middle making you think it is threaded into the radiator...in reality it is just a molded plug with rubber o-rings that pushes straight in and pulls straight out. So to remove it (although it is probably better to just remove the hose) just grasp the rib and pull straight out while maybe twisting back and forth.

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Fluid. You might consider getting the steering gear box checked, along with everything else connected to it. Also check for abnormal bends,worn bushings, etc...

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I believe all 93-98 Grand Cherokees are the same but basically you just pull and pry (gently of course) until the whole headlight pulls...well pops really...out. Then you have access to the back of it to change the bulb and it just pushes back in. It is a little tricky and i think a screwdriver works best but really be careful what your prying against because most of it is plastic and can crack. Taking this out will also give you access to the screws holding the parking/turn signal lights.

I've got a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 w/ Quadtrac & have had to replace some light bulbs in it. To get the headlight off, you have to unscrew the top screw which is in the corner closest to the fender, and then there's another screw between the headlight & the front blinker even though there's absolutely no room. I could find no way to get a screwdriver or any other took to fit in there & the repair shop had no idea how to replace it. I was told by a friend that you can get an Allen wrench in there? I ended up breaking the brackets for the bottom screws on both headlights, but you can keep the headlight staying in with just the top screw.

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