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123456

That should have been marked on the intake manifold, towards the rear of the engine.

The firing order is correct! However, it has a timing belt, not a chain. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so replace that while your in there. And Make sure the crank and cams on on TDC before you put the belt on!

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there are 2 crank position sensors. first 1 is the 24x located behind harmonic balancer you will need to remove belt 15mm bolt from balancer and balancer pulley. 2 8mm bolts and 1 10mm bolt are behind the balancer 1 13mm bolt is located on from block which you must disconnect. the other is located on the back of block which is the 7x 1 and this is just a 10mm bolt. It will take some playing around to pull this 1 out but it will come out and goes in very easy. before chaning any1 of these disconnect battery. When putting harmonic back on make sure its lined up w/ key hold and that's it all the way on.

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I went to my local AutoZone and ask that question they gave me a (free) key like thing that goes under your dash (they even showed me a picture of where to place the key)turn your ignition on and count the flashes on your service engine light, then call AutoZone and they will tell you what the flashes indicate the problem is. And it is all at no cost.

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Open the driver's side door and look on the far left side of the dash board. There's a small 1 foot by 1 foot panel covering the vertical fuse box.

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On the 3.1 Litre V6 engine ("T" Vin Code) the sensor is on the Left-hand side of the rear cylinder bank, above the exhaust manifold and below the valve cover. It is not the Wells' SU109 part, and least on our 1991 Corsica LT V6. We're still trying to find the right part. Chevy wants about $50 or so for it. Aftermarket for the SU109 was only $10! ***** Well kinda, actually I believe that the question asked, specified "sensor" and that is located in the thermostat housing on the left side of the motor under the thermostat, that component is actually called a "coolant temperature sensor". On the 3.1 Litre V6 engine the "coolant temperature sending unit" is on the Left-hand side of the rear cylinder bank, above the exhaust manifold and below the valve cover as mentioend in the previous answer. Although the question asked did not mention as to why you think you need to replace this. As well as the person first answering the question may be needing the proper solution if the sensor they bought was the wrong one. Or did not seem to fix the problem. I will answer a frequent misconception about these units and add yet another. Since many people are pointed to these items in hopes of repairing the LOW COOLANT Indicator Light which suddenly came on in their instrument panel. Now if this is the problem your trying to resolve, these other components are probably not what your looking for. Since one controls the COLD/HOT guage on your panel and the other causes your radiator fan to kick on and off. Allow me to introduce the proper part for that problem. This is only a ($12.00) Twelve dollar part which the parts stores and repair shops wont inform you of, until after you've allowed them to overhaul your engine or you've already purchased all of these other sensors and sending units first, which ranged from 25 to 85 dollars on average... NAPA Auto Parts sells a component and their part number is FLS609. It is called a Fluid Level Sensor. It is a unqiue little sensor with two prongs at one end. This unit simply pops into the external housing area on the lower pocket on the outside of the Coolant Resovior Tank (bottom side facing the engine). It has a quick release plug and may look tricky to get out because of the space and location unless you remove the tank entirely. But there really is no need to remove the tank. After disconnecting the negative battery cable, remove the bolt on the upper side of resovoir tank where it connects to the fender wall, pull the tank back and up carefully until you can access the unit on the underside. Simply unplug the bad unit, insert the new sensor and then plug it in. re-connect your battery cable and turn on your car. Your motor will made a few wierd noises, clicks and whirrrs, and will begin to idle high for a moment and then resume to be normal. Your LOW COOLANT incator light on the instrument panel will no longer be lit up. Good Job, Well Done. Happy Motoring

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Remove the lower dash panel in the drivers side it will be in the right of the steering coluum. == ==

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I'm assuming that you already have the serpentine belt off. its the smooth pulle, and bracket. located the pulley, and on either side there should be a bolt remove the bolts and pull off.

steer the wheel to the right. for a better veiew.look under the panel, locate the tensioner it has a screw in the middle. you probably need a wrench.

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The firing order for this engine is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The cylinders are 1-3-5 from left to right on the back head, and 2-4-6 from left to right on the front head. The coil pack is 1-4-6-3-2-5 from left to right when viewing from the front of the car.

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Actually, the firing order is 612345. 1 3 5 with 1 and 2 being on the passenger side of the car. 2,4,6 are front of car. 2 4 6 hope that helps.

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Try a higher octane gas and see if that helps Your engine may be getting too hot. Check to see if your radiator fan comes on. or Take your Ignition Module to an autozone and have it tested.

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It is located in the thermostat housing on the left side of the motor under the thermostat Well, actually I believe that located in the thermostat housing on the left side of the motor under the thermostat, that component is actually called a "coolant temperature sensor". On the 3.1 Litre V6 engine the "coolant temperatiure sending unit" is on the Left-hand side of the rear cylinder bank, above the exhaust manifold and below the valve cover Although the question asked did not mention as to why you think you need to replace this. I will answer a frequent misconception about these units and add yet another. Since many people are pointed to these items in hopes of repairing the LOW COOLANT Indicator Light on their instrument panel. Now ff this is the problem your trying to resolve, these other components are probably not what your looking for. since one controls the COLD/HOT guage on your panel and the other causes your fan to kick on and off. Allow me to introduce the proper part for that problem. This is only a ($12.00) Twelve dollar part which the parts stores and repair shops wont inform you of, until after you've allowed them to overhaul your engine or you've already purchased these other sensors, and sending units which ranged from 25 to 85 dollars on average... NAPA Auto Parts sells a component and the part number is FLS609. It is a unqiue little sensor with two prongs at one end. This unit simply pops into the external housing area on the lower pocket on the outside of the Coolant Resovior Tank. It has a quick release plug and may look tricky to get out unless you remove the tank entirely. But there really is no need to remove the tank. After disconnecting the negative battery cable, remove the bolt on the upper side of resovoir tank, pull the tank back and up carefully until you can access the unit on the underside. Simply unplug the bad unit, insert the new sensor and then plug it in. re-connect your battery cable and turn on your car. Your motor will made a few wierd noises, clicks and whirrrs, and will begin to idle high for a moment and then resume to be normal. Your LOW COOLANT incator light on the instrument panel will no longer be lit up. Good Job, Well Done.

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Well first of all put your car up on ramos and find out where your heater core lines go into the fire wall. More than likely its in the middle of the firewall which means its in the middle of the dash and you will have to remove the complete dashboard to get to it. I have the same thing with my 1993 Chevrolet Beretta. The heater core went out in it and in order to get to it the dashboard has to be completely unbolted not necessarily pulled out of car. You will have to unbolt the steering column to do this and let it drop till it stops on its own. I know the book time for a mechanic to do the job is like 14 or 1`5 hrs at about 50 bucks an hour for a $23 part. Do the math if you are mechanically inclined at all do the work your self and really you should not have to damage anything to do the job. Just rememebr how many bolts you take out and where they go. The worst part of the job is actually getting the cover off to the heater core. Mine was a pain there are so many bolts holding it up and just when you think they are all out the cover is still stuck on there and you find another bolt hidden. Goodluck in your adventure becase that is what it will be.

Keith(JcWhitney Tech Dept)www.JCW.com

A chilton guide, covered clean workspace, and patience are indespensible. Changing the heater core requires draining the coolant, removing the entire dashboard and disconnecting the heater core from the hoses outside the fire wall.

A heater core costs around $20 but the average shop will charge up to $1000 in labor to change it for you.

So good luck, be patient, and make sure the hoses are fit very securely to the heater core before attempting to put the car back together. Not doing so will result a lot coolant spilling on to your carpet and a smelly car for weeks afterword. Not that that happened to me or anything.

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you should use dentex the oragne anifreeze all gm cars take that

You should probably use the standard green antifreeze that nearly all vehicles used until about 1995. You could use the orange Dexcool antifreeze, but you should flush out the green coolant first, because the two should not be mixed. Nothing really but will happen if you use either one, but it is probably best to to use what was recommended originally.:actually GM cars made after 1981 no longer used anti-freeze made by any company other than there own and the above is all correct I was simply improving/ Use dexicool it is orange and usually comes in a gray container and is actually made almost the same as anti-freeze and is actually not proven to function any differently than the 38 other brands known to make synthetics for this synthetic

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I have a 95 Corsica with the 3.1 V6. I do all my own work, and this is the one thing that I hate doing. The way that I have been told to do it is similar to how I must do it in our 97 LeSabre. The front engine mount must be undone. You have to support the motor from the bottom, or it you have an engine hoist you can use that from the top. And if you do I envie you. You can use a floor jack to do this, just be careful of the oil pan. Once the motor mount is off, jack the motor up slightly. This should allow you enough room to remove the belt, and place the new one on the pulleys. Make sure that it is how you want it before you lower the motor back into place and securely bolt the mount back into place (personal advise from the Buick). That should be it, its not too difficult, just a pain in the a** for a belt. Good luck.

96 corsicas have electric fans which means there is no fan belt

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I just replaced my water pump on my 1994 Corsica. Not sure if it is the same as a 1996, but maybe this will help. Standing at the front of your car with the hood up, to the left is the serpentine belt. The "pulley" at the very top (the belt runs under it) was my water pump. It had 4 screws on the face of it. I used a screwdriver to keep the "pulley" from turning while i loosened and took off the screws. I then pulled the facing off and I think there were 5 screws holding the pump in. I took those out, and the pump came right out. Remember to clean the old gasket off before replacing new gasket and pump. I hope that helps.

Randy L.

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It is a pretty big job. I suggest taking it to an auto trim shop

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Most likely there's a leak at the bottom driver-side of the windshield. After the mat dries out, close the windows and concentrate a strong stream of water from a hose, starting with that area. If you see no leak, go on around the windshield a little bit at a time. Water can run from anywhere and drip down behind the cowl. I had the same problem. Two fixes. 1. Leak in the heater core or core in/out flex connectors. (replace it) 2. Blockage in A/C evaporator/condenser drain. (overflows into driver footwell. I had this problem with my 93 Corsica. A buddy with a 91 Beretta showed me it was the same problem that he had. There was a crack in the gutter where it is welded to the firewall as well as dried up sealant between the firewall and wheel well in the engine compartment. Try pulling up the carpet and underlay, in my case the water had come in and was running down the firewall behind the brake pedal but under the underlay. Here is a link to some photos of my drivers side leak: http://www.forthopetradingpost.com/corsica.html Good Luck!

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on the tensioner by the front pulley there is a square looking part that can be pushed up or down by using a 3/4 or 7/8 wrench

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Hey Eric==You don't really say what is wrong with them but I asume that one side isn't flashing. This is caused by a burned out bulb and you have to see which light is not comming on and repalce that light. The bulbs unscrew counterclockwise in the back of the housing. GoodluckJoe

I know what he means. Sometimes the flashers don`t work and it can be fixed by putting little thing under the emergency light switch to hold it up. Then the flashlight steering lifter should work, least mine works.

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Sometimes you have to cut the dash hole bigger. I suggest you take it to aomeone willing to tackle it.

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no

By L024308 10-7-2008

I just changed one. I took the lower part of the dash loose. To take the lower part of the dash loose remove 2 nuts on the outside corners of dash and remove a screw in each of the 2 brackets toward the center of the dash. There were 2 bolts that hold the steering wheel to the dash. I removed these bolts and let the steering wheel drop down about an inch so I could pull the dash out a couple inches to get to 2 clips on the rear seat diverter cover (first plastic cover to get to the heater core).

See "How do I change the heater core on a 91 Corsica?"

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There is not one. The Heater core has Full flow all the time.

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Lucky for you I was working on one of these today! (the stalls when hot and then after restarting immediately stalls again deals)

The alternator on this engine is easy to get to and replace. It is in the top left corner of the engine (when facing the car from the front). All you need to do is remove the two wires off the right-side (back end) of the alternator, pull the serpentine belt off the drum, and rmove the mounting bolts. I usually find something to tie the serpentine belt to like the hood or something with a rope so it is easier to put back on when putting the replacement piece in.