It is so easy. Just follow this procedure
Turn the ignition to the ON position -Press the selector button so that the warning is showing -Press and Hold the selector for 10 seconds, the display will flash. Once flashing let go of the button -Press and hold the selector button for 5 seconds, the display will reset.
I just tried the same procedure on my 2007 Honda Accord and it worked.
no it would no be worth the cost to change you would need to install a clutch pedal a hyd master cylinder and slave cylinder for the clutch as well as change the fly wheel on the motor and possibly the starter as well install a shifter and linkage it would run into about 1500 dollars or more to do this conversion. most people go from standard to automatic it is a little less things that get changed but on a front wheel drive it would be very costly.AnswerSaying that it isn't worth it is a very inappropriate answer. You have to weigh what you want from the vehicle against the costs. Yes, it will run him probably $800-$1500 or less, but if you choose to have a highly performance tuned engine, then having a manual transmission for both it's increased strength and control of the vehicle might be considered "worth it". AnswerIt would be more cost effective to sell your auto and buy a manual. Answerno Honda "performance" engine is going to be in an automatic car to begin with. Sell the car and buy a manual tranny car and be happy. AnswerIt depends on how customized the car is. If the guy's put a lot of time and money into fixing the car up and he's generally happy with it (except for the transmission), then yeah, changing out the trans wouldn't be unreasonable. If the car's white with stock interior, definitely just trade it in on one with a manual. Besides, if he tries selling the car and it is really Fast and Furious, the people who want a car like that are gonna take one look and think the same thing the poster is: "what's this automatic ****?"
The procedure's simple to understand: buy a wrecked car, park it next to yours and transfer everything under the hood, plus the pedals, shifter, computer and (probably) console, from the wreck to your car. Figure two to three months if you've got plenty of tools.
It is worth it imo i did it on my 03 civic ex and cost my 400 dollars to do it and i installed everything myself. but if you don't like the auto go on civic forums and find used parts that's the best way to go. U can always find good deals on parts.
i know the main relay is on the passanger side behind the glove box.take that out(just push in the sides it will come out) and look for a square black or brown box.its held on by a 10mm bolt.
If you mileage has dropped dramaticly in a short span of time there is one very probable answer. The thermostat to you engines cooling system may have puller through into the engine itself, or simply be in need of a replacement. With no thermostat the coolant is constantly circulating the engine. It is supposed to only do this at a higher temperature but if the engine is constantly cold it will be running a rich mixture of fuel, causeing the mileage to be extremley poor. This thermostat should not be an expensive fix and i would suggest looking into the situation as I have seen it before.
1,3,4,2 starting at the lower left of the distributor cap and rotating clockwise. the cylinders are numbered 4,3,2,1 left to right.
Disconnect the battery ground cable. The blower motor and fan are located beneath the dashboard on the passenger side. There is a plastic "kick panel" that must be removed by carefully yet firmly pulling to release the plastic retaining clip. Once the panel is removed you will see three torx head screws beneath the glove box holding the motor in place. Disconnect the power lead to the motor then remove the three screws holding the motor in place.
It means: Oil & Filter change and a Tire Rotation
1.5 or 1.6 its diffrent try autozone.com they have online repair guides will be very helpfull to you Either 1.5L or 1.6L The firing order is 1-3-4-2. this is good from 88-00 SOHC engines.
On 2001 Civic EX, you have to take the lugnuts off first. They hold the hubcaps on the wheel. Took me about a half hr. and 3 beers to figure out when I tried to put them back on after putting the lugnuts on first. Usually they snap onto the wheel with a steel wire.
Short Answer: Yes
PS What kind of oil?
That is not normal. There are many things that could be causing that problem. The easiest and cheapest thing you could do is to replace the fuel filter. Usually they will run just a few bucks at the local auto store. If that doesn't do the trick, try to see if your car is smoking at all and try to determine if it is blue, black, or white smoke. Usually a blue smoke is oil, black is usually fuel richness, and white is coolant. White and blue are the most serious. If you are just burning extra fuel, you might need a tuneup consisting of new sparkplugs, maybe new sparkplug wires, new distributer cap, and distributor rotor. This might be a good time the change the oil and oil filter as well as check the other fluids such as transmission, coolant, and brake.AnswerIf the engine dies whenever it is warm and low rmps chances are your ignition coil has an intermittently trouble. Check for primary and secondary circuit resistance. AnswerDon't forget the possibility of a bad o2 censor. They can cause all kinds of problems not the least of wich a very rough idle, and sputtering especially at stops. Good luck AnswerFrist determine if your engine has fuel injection or carbs .. if the latter it could be a vacuum leak , burnt valves , plugs need cleaning and gaping, a plug wire short to ground or the distributor cap or coil shorting..
If this is a late model car it could be the O2 sensor front, rear, both, also a bad fuel injector could be the problem, also a vacuum leak will cause the problem but normally it's never that simple. Also check your gas cap...
Regards GT280ZAnswerI have a 1997 Kia sephia RS 1.8L and we did a tune up on the car and changed the fule filter and the belts and my car still sputters and acts like it is going to shut off when I come to a stop. Do you know what could be causing this problem. AnswerIn some cases an emissions service at you local dealer can solve a number of problems, from sputtering from a stop, to very poor fule mileage. It wirked for us on our 1998 Chevy Prizm
hey for the kia sephia,,check the MAF sensor just buy one from eBay and change it .u can clean it ureself but u should not touch it.best suggestion go to junkyard or buy it on eBay and change it
Here are opinions and answers from FAQ Farmers: I would be concerned about how the electronic control module or certain sensors will be affected. I am surprised that the company that your purchasing this from can't give explicit info! You can determine the axles by calling a parts store and asking what the part # is for the front axles of a manual and the part # for an automatic. If I remember right the Probe was a small nightmare when it came to axles, but maybe I am mistaken. Sounds like a real picnic you're going on, write back when it gets done. GOOD LUCK! * I have a 91 Civic hatchback and it wasn't that hard. Your Hondas and Acura' are pre-drilled for your clutch pedal. Just buy or keep your motor and buy a manual tranny. I'm only 17 and I did it with one of my friends in about 2 days, but I had every thing there and ready to go and we took are time and did't rush. * If you dont know what you are doing do not get into it.
It is telling you it is time to get your oil changed.
This is what you do. Warning - You cannot see anything . You just have to use your hands and judgement.......and be prepared to get your hands dirty.
Open the front hood of the car. Between the steering fluid compartment and the headlight, there is a very small space for you to squeeze your hand in. Try to feel the wire and a rubber covering that goes to the headlight. Once you locate the wire pull the plug from the socket by pressing on the sides of the plug as you pull.
Once you do this, remove the same rubber covering which is provided to prevent water from entering the headlight. After you have removed the covering, locate the hinged metal clip that holds the bulb in place. By this point, you should be able to see it with a flash light. The clip is held in place by a little piece of metal. Press down on the clip to free it from the metal, and the clip will swing open like a gate.
BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE BULB, be sure to take note of how the bulb fits into the lamp; see how the old bulb's prongs are aligned. These bulbs are made to really fit only one way. I didn't pay attention when I took my old bulb out, and it took a while for me to figure out how to put the bulb in. There are three prongs. The center prong is UP.
Withe the gate open, the bulb comes right out. Get the new replacement lamp and follow the directions in reverse order. Be sure not to touch the glass part of your replacement bulb (read the instructions on your replacement bulb's box to find out why).
The rubber boot goes on after you have the bulb in and before yopu attach the connector. Mount it with the "TOP" up, that leaves the drain holes down. Seat the boot and make sure the three prongs have come through the center round hole. The attach the connector. If you get the boot hole location right in relation to the three bulb connector prongs, it will connect. Test that the lights work before you close the hood and clean your hands.
PS Don't buy those extra bright white lamps. They may increase your visibility but be sure that they are a bigger distraction to the oncoming traffic. Go with the old lamps. They are more street friendly....
for the driver's side headlight replacement, i found that sliding the steering fluid compartment off the bracket, it gives you pleanty of room to move around in there...i used a flat skrewdriver to bend the clip back a little and the container will slide right up
DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR GREASY FINGERS!!!!! IT WILL EXPLODE!!! AT THE WRONG TIME!!!
I bought the fuse box cover as well as the small decal that shows all of the fuses at the local Honda dealer for my 92 Civic for about $10. Check with them. Don't forget that there are two fuse boxes for the 1993 Civic; one is below and to the left of the steering column, the other is in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger's side.
The proper gap for your Paseo is .043
if you upgraded it all the way get a forza motor sport spoiler and a front bumper then go to tune car go to aero and put the downforce almost all the way up to cornering
I believe it is screwed to the engine block on the side facing the rear of the car just above the LH CV axle.
the pcv tube is between the intake manifold a little tube going into the engine. On the I4, it is located underneath the intake manifold, but slightly above the oil filter. It's difficult to see, but if you look from the driver's side through an opening under the intake manifold, you'll see a sensor. To the left of it and slightly below you should see the PCV valve. It's a little elbow with a clamp around it and a tube going out and will probably be covered in oil.
it could be a lot of things. start by checking your throttle position sensor and/or your spark plugs and spark plug wires. if you have a check engine light, you could take the car to auto zone and have them check for engine codes.
Remember to check your air filter too. You may be surprised! (simply remove the airfilter and check if the performance improves. If it does, change the filter).
If you have dual point injection, then try this. I had the same issue twice and both times I resolved it by spraying throttle body cleaner into throttle body and wiping the sensor clean..You have to hold the "butterfly" open while doing this
Check the Codes by yourself. Reach under the glove box, grab the 2 sets of wires/plugs tucked up inside there. one has a two prong, one has 4. if you put a paper clip in the two prong and turn the ignition to ON (don't start the car) the CEL will flash all the codes.
Most common issue will be a lack of vacuum, and or Ignition wire, plugs cap and rotor. for the rough uneven idle.
DO NOT TRY THE ABOVE!!!! if you do not know what you are doing dont try to clean your throttle plate/body. you need to make sure it is throttle body cleaner for fuel injection, you also need to be careful to not have the overspray or overflowing liquid get onto the exhaust manifold or anything hot because it is extremely flamable.
not sure what you mean by uneven idle. if the rhythm of the idle is off it may be misfiring, this could be caused by the ignition components like sparkplugs, plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition coil, or the whole distributor.
if the idle goes up and down, the most common problem maybe your IACV (idle air control valve)
but like stated before it could be numerous things and only by running a series of tests will you be able to find out. if you are knowledgeable with cars then try to see if you can eliminate the above issues, if not take it to a mechanic you can trust and have them check it out.
You need a manual to get all the torques and stuff right, but I'll give you the basics of it.
First, you never, ever change the timing belt alone. The water pump wears out at about the same rate as the timing belt, and you've got to remove the crank pulley to get the water pump, so change both at the same time.
Parts you will need:
Timing belt and tensioner.
Two gallons of Honda-compatible antifreeze--the special Honda Genuine brand is best. "Any make any model" antifreeze will also work. Hondas are nitpicky about the antifreeze you use in them.
Parts you should change at the same time:
Oil and filter
New radiator hoses
Any other belts--alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner, usually.
Tools you will need
Metric sockets and wrenches
400 lb-ft electric impact wrench and metric impact sockets
Floor jack and two jackstands, plus a block of wood
1. Jack up the driver's side and put the car on a jackstand. Remove the driver's side wheel. Unhook the battery. Remove the dust covers under the car if you still have them.
2. Remove the valve cover and rotate the engine until the "up" arrow on the cam pulley's pointing up
3. Remove all the belts, covers, etc. from the engine you can get to. Drain the coolant. Save it for recycling.
4. Make sure the "up" arrow is still pointing up.
5. Use the impact wrench to remove the bolt holding the crank pulley on. (This is the hardest bolt to remove in the whole car. If you don't have or can't get an impact wrench, don't even attempt to do this job because you won't be able to.)
6. Remove the cover you couldn't get to before.
7. Remove the old water pump and replace it with the new one. You will have to swap the pulley to the new one--they don't come with pulleys.
8. Check to be sure the arrow on the cam pulley is still pointing up. Remove the tensioner. Check the marks on the crank to be sure they're lined up. (At this point the cam pulley will have fallen into the right place, so as long as it's still pointing up you're golden.) Then remove the belt, put the new one where it goes, and install the new tensioner. Get the tension set right, then put the crank pulley bolt back in. Turn the engine over two revolutions. Did you feel anything hitting or hear any clanging in the engine? If you didn't you did good. If you did, you have to put the belt back on.
9. Put the lower timing belt cover back on, then the crank pulley (torque to 220 lb-ft; it will get tighter as you go along) and then all the rest of the parts in your car.
10. Look at the thermostat housing. There's a thing that looks like a bolt with a hole in it. That's your coolant bleeder. Open it and fill the radiator with coolant until coolant comes out of the hole in this bolt, then tighten the bolt. Put the radiator cap back on. Top up the coolant bottle.
11. Change the oil and spark plugs if you got new ones.
12. Hook the battery back up, put the wheel back on and set the car on the ground.
13. Try to start the car. If it starts, you're finished.
the best way is to bring it up and back along the firewall accross the back of engine to the right side and up by air filter out of the car.
Whole headlight or bulb? Bulb, just undo the retaining clip and pull out the bulb. No twist on this bulb, just straight out.
Get a light in to see the retaining clip. It has a tab to one side which you can pull and wiggle to release. It then swings away from the backside of the bulb.
OK - but undoing the wire is a bit challenging sometimes, you have to press hard on the sides of the wire clip by inserting your fingers in between the clip and the rubber seal (note the headlight will feel loose). Headlight, 4 bolts hold it in place, 2 on the top, 1 underside left and 1 underside right. DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah, that would be in the Haynes Manual, avail at your local library or auto parts store.
1-3-4-2 distributor rotates clockwise. http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-9312.htm
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