Any vehicle can be made faster (top end) or quicker (acceleration) by installing higher performance parts. The "big three" for a normally aspirated (NA) vehicle are an intake, header, and exhaust. Depending upon the displacement of the engine, the total power gain will be mild to moderate, however the vehicle's behavior will change for better or worse (most performance parts are optimized for high end power for the sake of low end torque).
Forced induction applications (turbo/supercharger) are easier to get power, and are the most cost effective method to increase a car's performance. Replacing the up/midpipe, and a turboback exhaust (TBE) will result in fantastic gains when coupled with a reflash of the car's computer. A popular application today is Subaru's WRX, which can achieve hp/tq gains of approximately 55hp and 50lb/ft for a low entry price of $1800. The same $1800 on a NA vehicle with similar displacement may only have a gain of half that power.
Obviously, there are more avenues to increase power, but these are two small examples. In the end, the law of diminishing returns will come into play - throwing more money at a car does not always result in the same ratio in performance as when the project initially started.
not enough info in question; there are 3different belts on the 95 - 99 dodge neon. Timing, Alternator, and the Power Steering is combined with the Air Conditioner Compressor
Heater core is possible, coolant could be leaking externally onto engine and giving off that smell. Ruptured, cracked or leaking bypass hose; Ruptured, cracked or leaking heater hose; Worn or damaged radiator cap; Rusted, corroded, or damaged radiator may be leaking antifreeze/coolant; Loose, damaged, or faulty radiator drain plug; Worn or damaged cooling fan motor or circuit; Thermostat stuck closed; Cracked or leaking water outlet/hose; Damaged, worn or leaking water pump; Leaking or defective heater control valve; Freeze plugs are cracked or leaking. to smell burning anti freeze it would need to be leaking onto engine. most likely a small leak in a coolant hose somewhere, and even if it is heater core , it is sure not going to cost 500 bucks a heater core doesnt even cost 100 bucks to buy and they are easy to install
Take it from someone who owns both: 1999 GTP and 2001 RT
The R/T has no where near the amount of acceleration the GTP has. This is not even debatable.
I love both, but speed wise? The GTP by a land slide.AnswerGTP for sure.
Fastest R/T in DragTimes database is 15.6 sec. 1/4 mile, and the slowest GTP is 15.4 sec.Answeri just recently purchased a 03 RT (5spd), and i traded in a 97 supercharged 3.8l Buick (same exact set up as the gtp) and i think the rt is faster and alot funner. AnswerThe gtp is faster due to the fact that it has a power adder (supercharger) and the stratus does not. Answerthe GTP is alot faster it has a supercharger on it and is getting 240 horsepower stock. Answerchryslers break faster then any other car on the road, so i wouldn't suggest racing or anything that might strain the engine, even daily driving. from my experience with there products just about everything is of low quality...transmissions, engines, paint, and the entire fit and finish. i have seen a dodge ram go through 3 transmissions, 2 driveshafts, all sorts of interior finish problems all in 30,000 miles...the list goes on.
-EDIT- Generally, the Stratus R/T may be using the 3.0 liter engine. This engine and transmission combo is made by Mitsubishi and is the same on the Mitsubishi Eclipse of the same year. It is NOT a Mopar engine and doesn't tend to break like one.
--EDIT: Only the 2.7 has major mechanical issues (Sludge). The 3.5L, 5.7 and 6.1 are fine.AnswerThe new gtp has 260 hp and will easily beat the rt Answergtp for sure
You are cooking it too hot or it is because you are adding your cold ingredients to the hot to fast Milk is sour Answer Your eggs might not be fresh enough, and again you have heated it to too high a temperature then you need to beat in the cold ingredients with a wooden spoon to prevent curdling I'm not sure I understand the question or the corresponding answers. Roux is simply fat and starch - what is there to curdle? Milk or eggs are not part of the equation... == == == == == ==
autozone.com according to the chart, 16.0 gals.
the correct answer is 15.9 gallons
May be separate problems. A small fuel leak in the engine may be the source of the 2 scents. A coolant leak may be the source of the poor heat and burning smell. Get it checked out before you have a serious problem. Next time you run the car, shut it off, lift the hood and try to smell where the source of raw fuel is, or any rising smoke.
it's located behind the timing belt on DOHC engines, and more than likely the same on SOHC engines.if you're a novice, DO NOT ATTEMPT. there will not be much room to work in. REMEMBER TO DRAIN THE COOLING SYSTEM FIRST!! This process can take a long time so plan to do it when you have at least 6 hours or more1 support the engine2 remove motor mount at timing belt cover3 remove cover4 you will need to remove the timing belt and tensioner(you will need to compress the tensioner with a vice before reinstall) there is a small hole in the side of the tensioner so that you may place an Allen wrench through it to hold the tensioner in a compressed position. Also, this would be a good time to install a new timing belt.5 remove and replace your water pump.6 reinstall the tensioner, then belt7 finish the reinstallation process
that was the down and dirty version, if you need better instructions, i suggest buying a Haynes Manual.
Most automotive places have a freon recharge kits. http://www.bargainoutfitters.com/cb/cb.asp?a=230769&kwtid=203671 I prefer the one with the gauge on it and remember to attach it to the low pressure side. If you are doing a full take down and refill you will need some guages, a vacuum pump, and a recharge system. Because leting the freon out into the air is against the law.
It should be. I don't think there were any major changes in this regard from '04 to'05, but check your owners manual or the dealership to be sure. It is the same (but you won't find the procedure in the owner's manual). It is in the owners manual. ed724
Hey Sherri==It is best if you go to Auto Zone or another parts store and get a manual on your car for about $18 and it will show you with pictures and everything. You can go to AUTOZONE.COM nd install your car and go to REPAIR INFO then to PRODUCTS AND HOW TO then to "S" for starter and then to REPLACE. These are fairly good directions but are pretty generic. Lots of luck, Joe
On 98's the starter is on the radiator side of engine...best way to remove as I have found out myself...
Remove the two Radiator fans... and remove the top hose on radiator then you have easy access for your hands to reach the starter... then remove the battery and battery box...that will expose the two bolt heads on the engine block, just line yourself up with the starter than you will be able see which bolts they are...There are quite a few of them for other things on the engine... once bolts are removed then you can take the starter out after the hot and the ground wires are dissconnected... Put new starter in reverse order of these instructions... Average time about an hour or less depending on your level of proficency ... Oh the new starter would cost close to a hundred dollars because the starter and solenoid is together as one unit... I recommend a second hand used starter that has been tested from a Junk Yard dealer ... That is what i did for my customer that i done this on recently to safe her money that she can't really afford for a new one...I think i have just about covered all i know on this one...
The 95 neon's water pump is behind the timing belt cover on the left-hand side of the motor (if looking at it from the front). You will need a 3-jaw gear puller to remove the bottom main pulley. First thing you will have to do is jack the car up (I recommend putting jack stands underneath, then remove the jack), remove the passenger side front tire and then the splash-guard. Place a wood block on the jack and support the motor with it. Remove the motor mount (there is a small hole in the side of the fender-well through which you can remove the main bolt), After pulling the motor mount, remove the drive belts and the spark plugs so that you can find what is called "Top Dead Center" (or "TDC") in the #1 cylinder (the cylinder closest to you). But before doing that, you should first remove the bolt from the crank pulley (the big pulley you see closest to the bottom of the motor) so that you don't need to find TDC again after heaving on the bolt to loosen it. Use a long screwdriver to hold the pulley in place and loosen the bolt that holds the pulley on. You can remove the bolt, but do not yet remove the pulley since it is needed to find TDC. To find TDC, insert a long wooden rod into the head through the sparkplug hole; you should feel the rod hit the piston. Begin turning the crank pulley and be sure to only turn it clockwise. You should see the wood rod rise or fall (if it is not moving be sure that the rod is down past the threads for the spark plug). Keep turning until the wood rod rises, stops and then begins to fall. You will need to stop turning when the rod stops moving between the rise and fall; this is top-dead-center. Now you can remove the big pulley; you'll need the 3-jaw puller to remove it. There is a metal plate that the motor mount was connected to. Remove that by unscrewing the three 15mm bolts. You will need to raise the motor to pull the top two bolts out and lower the motor to remove the bottom one. Remove the bracket. On the bottom of the timing cover there are two 8mm bolts; remove these and remove the timing cover. Loosen the two 15mm bolts that hold the timing belt tensioner (it is a metal thing with a small spring loaded bar that has a hole in it on the top). You will need to put the tensioner in a vise and line up all 3 holes, then slide a small Allen wrench (or small nail, wire, etc.) through the holes to hold the bar down. Look, take note and remember how the timing belt is placed around the gears and pulleys, and then remove the belt. A good idea is to inspect the belt and the idler pulley (a smooth round pulley right next to the water pump; the water pump is on the left side of the pulley with the gears in it). If your idler pulley is plastic, it is a good idea to get a new one around 90,000; these things tend to just fall apart causing major motor damage. Now you can remove the water pump and install a new one. Once installed, be sure your timing marks are still lined up (small arrows on the crank gear, two lines on the cam gear). Install the timing belt, while making sure that any slack in the belt is on the side where the tensioner pulley is when placing, and meshing, the belt over the teeth of the gears. Place your tensioner, and bolt it on but not completely tight. Now pull the small Allen wrench, nail, wire, or etc. from the holes so as the tensioner can then make the belt taut or tight. Use a torque wrench and place it on the bolt in the smooth pulley, hold this at 250 in. pounds and tighten the tensioner. Replace everything else and you should be good to go.
While you are doing all of this, it is a good idea to go ahead and replace the o-ring on the water inlet tube located on the backside of the water pump housing that does to the bottom of the radiator. The tube is made of a plastic material so be careful with it once you extract the two mounting bolts. Use a good quality sealant when you put it all back together. The only place i could find an o-ring was at a dodge parts store, the generic stores won't even list it. I fought overheating problems for several months ,replacing everything and then finally replaced the faulty o-ring that cured my problem.
Also replace timing belt idler pulley and water pump at 100,000 miles.
Note: If your timing belt has broken be aware you may have some bent valves and would require a complete rebuilt or junk yard head.
Invest in a "Hanes Manual" for your Neon; My husband (who has no mechanical training) has changed our head gasket, water pump, alternator, starter and timing belts and other minor things using this book. You can get it for around $15 at any local auto parts store.
Assuming this is a manual, standard mirror, I have the same problem on the same exact car and I took the mirror apart today to see how.
Open the driver's side door and pull the plastic covering away from the mirror adjustment handle. The cover is triangular and covers the whole area in front of the window. It will probably give you some trouble coming off, but it just snaps off. Beneath that are several nuts. Remove these and your mirror will come off, bringing its cover with it.
Now for the problem I've run into: where to get a new one? I've tried two auto parts stores and cannot find a replacement. Both claimed they couldn't even order it from Plymouth. If my on;line search (which brought me here) fails, I'll be trying a junkyard. I'd be willing to bet the one from a '97 Dodge Neon would fit perfectly. if I can't find a Plymouth. Good luck with yours.
Found one for about $34
buy a do and he will make a Lexus TRUE stOrY
It shouldn't have frozen if you have coolant in it
Hey Jonathan==It varries between cars. If your car is later than about 1986 it is computer controled and you cannot change it. Sometimes if the idle speed solonoid is bad or dirty, the idle will be wrong. Goodluck, Joe
A vacuum leak will also cause idle quality issues.
I have a crack in mine as well with a slow leak, my mechanic on a cadillac had the same problem and had to be replaced. If you have a better answer let me know. FYI I did find one on
for $119.00 plus a little freight
I went to a radiator shop and they have a proses they use to fix them i got mine done for $50.00
Car will run fine with either..
I use Champ spark plugs, had very bad experience with Autolite plugs. (Kept blowing injectors)
Upon looking it up in Haynes Repair Manual for Neon, the Spark Plug Gap should be 0.035 inches and the range is 0.033 to 0.038 inches.
The Manual says the type is Champion RC 9YC or equivalent, I use Neon NGK V-Power plugs. I have heard that any brand Platinum type plugs are bad for the Neon.
RC9YC are the original Champion plugs and the gap is @ .35" . The answer regarding platimum plugs is accurate from personal experience. Replace with Champion RC9YC as stated in the previous post and as listed on the underside of the 2000 Neon hood. I upgraded to platimum plugs, the car ran rough upon initial throttle to the point where it stalled at lights and upon starting to move. Went back to new original plugs and the car immediately ran perfect.
yes, but hte weight rating is very low. approx 1000 lbs total
See the closely related question to the right. A number of opinions have been given. Some say it just takes some explaining, as with any repair by the home mechanic. The hardest part is removing the fan blade and shroud. You will need a strap wrench because the "special tool" doesn't work on durango water pumps. There are no screws on the pulley for the wrench to secure the pulley with.
It is NOT illegal to have neon under your car, but it is illegal to drive with it on.
** the above answer is false! Is is NOT illegal to have them on your car or drive with them on. I own a business and sell LED GLOW. It is illegal to STROBE with them on. They will also pull you over if you have red, blue or white lights. But LED GLOW makes many many other colors that you can switch to and drive with them on.
== == It depends what car and engine it was done in. If it was a D8 caterpiller that would have been a bargain. If it was in a Geo that probably is too much.
Simply remove nuts on each end of the hose. If it has "O" rings replace them also.
Thanks for the reply. I should have been a little more specific. The problem I'm having is getting to the bolt on top of the power steering pump. I tried through the wheel well as well as a long extentsion with a universal joint and I can't seem to get the right angle. I can get the socket on the bolt but it's angled to much towards the block. Removing the right engine motor mount and jacking the engine just slightly, NOT TOO MUCH, will provide increase access to the banjo bolt on top of the PS pump, then you can use your U-joint extension.
The blower motor for the Neon is located behind the glove compartment.To access the blower motor is to unplug the wiring plug from the wire harness and unlatch 3 or 4 clips.Then the blower motor is free from the vent intake.Don't forget to drop the glove compartment door.
Squeaking tires has nothing to do with the power steering. If you are talking about a squealing power steering belt, then the belt is either loose or worn out and needs replacing. If the pump itself is squealing, and the belt is tight and in good shape and fluid level is full, the pump is bad. on my 1995 dodge neon the AC compressor had seized and since this unit shares the belt with the power steering pump the belt used to squeal like crazy and eventually would break. if this is the case you can go to the dealer and get a belt that would bypass the AC compressor (leave out of the loop) and of course there would be no AC in the car. i had the same problem w/ my 95, i just cut the belt, drove home and bought a 41 INCH belt to bypass the a/c I had squeeky brakes on my 96 dodge neon (expecially after it rained). I just cleaned them off with an air hose and then believe it or sprayed a little window cleaner and wd40 on the drums..ect. I also hear washing with dish soap works as well.
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