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1996

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The tail lights are accessed through the rear inside of car. 1. open back hatch. 2. remove cover plates on inside rear of trunk trim. 3. remove the nuts holding the rear light assembly. 4. remove bulb holder(twist lock mount) and remove bulb. To re-install do in reverse. SEE PICTURE: http://www.stealth316.com/images/mitchell/s-parts-15.gif

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determine WHY its overheating first. Are there leaks in any of the hoses? relace the hose. Is the fan turning on? if not, repair fan and or temp switch that turns it on. Is there oil in the water or water in the oil? If so, head gasket repair. Is there white smoke coming out the exhaust? if so, head gasket repair. Is there pressure(many bubbles) in the radiator? water blows out? if so, head gasket repair. Also any cracks in the radiator itself? Easily sealed if so. It needs to be refilled with coolant occasionally...is that empty? Solution= fill it...with a good water mixture in the radiator as well. As mentioned above water in the oil is not good...it'll look "white-ish". ********************* Another question is "How do you know it's overheating? What are the symptoms?" When my temp gauge spiked recently, it turned out to just be a failed Temperature Sending Unit. (The cooling system was working just fine, my thermometer was broken...)

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Cars

Jewelry

TV

Stereo

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I assume the car your talking about has flip-up headlights. The bulb is the small size twin beam. (I don't remember the number) 1. flip light up 2. remove trim cover screws. 3. remove bezel screws. 4. remove bulb and diconect wire plug. To re-assemble do above in reverse. SEE THIS PICTURE: http://www.stealth316.com/images/mitchell/s-parts-01.gif bottom right of linked picture

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The window tract is not really adjustable. Usually the regulator and/or cable go bad, and you need to replace the thing as a unit.

/ / / / /

There are adjustment screws on the lift system on the dorr windows.

They are located in two positions on the track. You will have to remove inside door panel. Tward the rear of door there are two nuts on screws that have a hex broached into them. Loosen nuts (14mm I think) turn set screw with hex key to achieve desired result. (I do not remember turning which way does what) You will have to hold the set screw with the hex key while re-tightening the nuts.

This operation will adjust where the top of the glass makes contact with the rubber seal around the door opening.

Keep the pigtail plugged in the the window operation button. You can hang the door panel on the door the test you settings.

Good Luck, Da Moo

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Probaably whatever is burning is not being blown away because your going slower. That is when your moving more air is pushing the odor away. Are you hearing any new noises? In a manual car it will probably be the clutch if you are riding it alot automatics don't make the smell unless ya are doing burnouts. Burning clutch smells a bit more metallic than rubber. I had the same occurence for a few months when getting out of my truck, was told it might be a plastic bag stuck on underside, but it was the tires being slightly underinflated, bad alignment plus my aggressive driving back then. I had this problem and it was a leaky valve cover gasket. oil was leaking on to the rest of the engine and the burning rubber smell was the smell the synthetic oil gave off. I had this problem too, but with me it turned out to be my surpentine belt burning as a result of my A/C Clutch was starting to lock up. Check your belt / belts for any discoloration. This would be a sign of it / them burning. And if it does end up being a belt, it could be anything with a pully being used by that belt that could be causing the problem. Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s); Incorrect belt tension will allow belts to slip; Loose or damaged belt tensioner will allow belts to slip; Worn or damaged idler/tensioner pulley; Spark plug or coil wire(s) making contact with hot engine; Corroded, broken or poorly connected battery cable. bad fan belt or in correct tension on fan belt especially noticable if you are using a/c in stop and go traffic

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1. remove under-cover on LH side 2. remove cruise control actuator 3. raise vehicle and suspend engine to relieve force on mount 3a. remove front left wheel and wheel well lining (to access belts) 4. pull off drive belts, tension pulley assy, tension pulley bracket 5. pull engine mounting bracket, P/S pump pressure switch connector, P/S pump (suspend, such as wiring it to the hood) 6. pull engine support bracket, crank pulley (special tool), timing belt covers 7. pull front flange, adjust timing belt tension, remove timing belt (align marks, mark direction of belt if re-using -- service interval is 60K) 8. R&R water pump (bolts: 17 ft/lb) 9. re-install timing belt (seek an expert if unsure) 10. adjust timing belt tension (tensioner fixing bolts 16-22 ft/lb, belt tension 46.3-68.3 lbs) 11. re-install belt covers (7-9 ft/lb) 12. re-install crank pulley (special tool) 13. re-install support bracket carefully (spray lubricant on reamer area as tightening) 14. re-install other components in reverse order of removal (mount: center 25 ft/lb, side 72-87 ft/lb)

This is a long procedure. Some information omitted for space. See http://www.stealth316.com/0-frames.htm for possible other sources of information. Factory manuals may be available on ebay.

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It's your alternator!!!! If you want to be sure of this just disconect all the wires from it ( insulate the bare wire from touching any thing ) put charger on batt and i bet it runs forever......let me know if this helped.

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Please see "related questions" link at lower left.

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on the 4G63 it runs off the cam-shaft. otherwise, it is behind the crankshaft pulley, an inductive bell and strobe setup.

The previious answer is true, but the 92 Dodge Stealth came with 3 engine options. The Base Model came with a SOHC 6G72, The ES and RT with a DOHC 6G72 and the RT/TT with a Twin Turbo DOHC 6G72. In answer to te question in 92 the crank sensor is run off the camshaft similar to the 4G63. It is located on the intake camshaft, of the rear head on the transmission or rear of the block

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Yes but not worth it.

extremely expensive. cheeper to buy an rt tt

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In the fuel tank

lol that person is funny, yes it is in the fuel tank, the access pannel is located under the trunk trays and spare tire, remove 4 screws and move the pannel (which is on the passenger side) and there you find the pump

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ok here you go goto www.stealth316.com and click on garage then step by step for speedometer gear. ok but mainly take of intake hose battery and battery housing and it is under the clutch line... one bolt and pull out ok... but they will give you step by step instructions on how to do it... its easy i just changed mine in my stealth and it took me like 1 hour to do... good luck

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replace ECU with identical ECU

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just need a good tune up and again ajust the throttle body rpm screw.

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Ignition module? ECM? I module and ecm do not work check fuel pump presure. Could be bad fuel pump or pluggedup fuel filter

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I don't think there is a problem. New cars have paints and coatings on the parts for shipping. When the car gets hot, these paints and coatings burn off thus giving off burning smells. We drive Kia vehicles and they have a very strong burning smell at first. They have a small booklet that goes with the owners manual that tells you you will smell a burning odor for the first few hundred miles but it will go away. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info Test drive the exact same model, but different car. If you get the same smell, may be normal. It not, then the first car's smell may be sign of something unusual. If It Smells Like butt LOL Its ur brakes and its perfectly Normal Your Fuel Also Has something to do with it try to sticc to supreme for a while dont mix different octane grades after a couple hundred miles the smell should be gone!

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i had this same problem on my 1991 dodge stealth the problem is with the iacv ( isle air control valve) this is located on the throttle body. simpley remove the 4 bolts holding the throttle body canclean it there should be a very smalll hole inside the throtle body. if this gets anything over it the car wont idle. that's the right way to fix the problem. if you don't want to take the time to do it right, then you can pay the extra money on the gas you will have to get to do it the second way. ( scond way {temp fix} ) located on the back of the throttle body you will find a switch connected to a wire that is connected to the gas peddle. there should be a bolt under the switch tightening this bolt will increase your idle rpms. increase it to 1,500 rpms that will get you by for a while but you will have to keep adjusting it. ( the correct way takes about 30 mins i HIGHLEY suggest that you take the time to do it right )good luck

could also be several other sensors, mafs mass air flow sensor is also quite common

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to install a clutch in a dodge stealth, looks hard but its not. you have to drop the axles out. to do this you take lower ball joints, loose at lower a frame then take the axle nut off at the axle. it will be easier to loosen the sway bar then you can take out the axles. then from there you take the bolts loose from the trans where it bolts to the motor. there are other items you have to remove but its been awhile since I have done one. there is one electrical part that you don't want to get pinched when you go back with the trans.

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go and get some instance seal at autoparts store it should be a good cheap fix

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Fuel Pump is in the fuel Tank. Look in the trunk under the spare tire for a square removable cover. Pump and sending unit assembly should be under that. If you can not locate a cover to access the tank you will need to remove the tank to get to it,look cor a cover first.The cover may be held down by sealent and screws. Dont forget to reseal it

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I've seen it done. You've gotta jack the car up, then jack the engine up (use wood against the oil pan so you don't bend the sucker up). Once you've got the stress off of the motor mount (right hand side of the car) you can undo the bolts. From there, if you jack the motor up a little, you should have just enough room to play. Jack up the engine? ...umm...just jacking the car up will do. Before you touch anything to do with the alternator, please remove the positive terminal from your battery...or will experience quite the ride. ;) Should be a few bolts and more or less self explanatory.