According to the related links below, intermittent wipers history of bad module under the hood upper driver side. Cost to replace just the part $80. or so. My mechanic soldered the wires back in place in module and saved me a bundle.
If you are having wiper problems intermittently, you may have a loose connector at the wire harness-to-wiper motor interface. My 98 Blazer did after 8 years. Under the hood, at rear of engine compartment, near center, is the connector. Push it back in tightly, then put a cable tie/zip tie/ Ty-wrap on it and tighten carefully. Putting a wire around it and twisting the wire will last a little while, and then fail in a pouring rain like my first repair attempt. The cable ties won't creep loose.
You could also go to your local Chevrolet dealer and ask them to check your VIN, they will tell you if your car has any recalls on it, not only the wiper. They will do it for free.
Everything above is correct, but also note that GM had a big issue with wiper motors in all the trucks in that era, including the blazer, that all you needed to do is ground the motor with a separate wire (I usually did it from the cover bolt to the mounting bolt) and issue would go away. I know that some of them also had an issue with the PC board (Wiper motor pulse board) inside the motor that would get corroded and is a super easy fix, you can buy a new PC board for about $20, it is about 4-6 screws and it is done.
For the Buick Skylark: You would go in through the trunk and remove the attaching hardware for the tail light assembly. After the tail light assembly is off, replace the bulb, and put the assembly back on. For the Volvo: you will either need to remove the outer casing to access the bulb OR go through the trunk and access the bulb through the package tray.
how to remove87 power string caddy 5.0
I saw many hundreds $$$ flying out the window.
My spirits soared when the mechanic told me ' IT IS UNDER WARRANTY'.
Picked up car and NO CHARGE it was.
It seems that emmission parts are warranted for 7 years in Canadaand I guess in US.
The heater core is blocked, or a heater hose has collapsed, keeping hot engine coolant from getting to the core. The "blend air" door may be stuck in the open position, keeping warm air from circulating, and dumping in cold outside air. I am assuming that engine coolant and water pump is good.
set to zero degrees base timing
the computer controls actual timing
The one you can afford.
I love my 1992 with the TBi Vin "W" has never had any issues. It has 252,000 miles. I would drive it anywhere. I have known people with the early Vortec with CPI (Vin "Z") and they have a few issues but are still good.
If your car is fuel injected, the electronic throttle position sensor on the throttle body could be bad. The check engine light doesn't always come on, in this situation.Answer
Well it kind of depends on how new the car is. If it's a newer one or your lights start to go dim as one person put it, it is quite simply the governor. Fairly cheap and easy to have that problem fixed. If it's an older vehicle read some of the answers below, they're pretty accurate, although one other thing it could be is a blocked catalytic converter.Answer
I had the same problem with my van, after many misdiagnosed repairs it turned out to be that the 02 censor was not working properly, have that checked.Answer
I surprised myself and resolved this problem on mine: Too much dirt, etc built up in in line fuel filter. As I accelerated larger demand for fuel caused blockage and starved off motor.
Check the little things first!Answer
I have the same problem but not the answer.
But I have just realized that when it happens the driving lights go dim.Bog When AcceleratingI had this same problem with my 1988 Chevy S10 Blazer 4.3L This could be a problem with your EGR circuit. This circuit stand for exhaust gas recirculation and is responsible for moving a little exhaust gas back into the engine for combustion. If your vehicle is newer than 1973 it is required to have this device in it because it reduces NO2 emissions. Replace the EGR valve and solenoid (valve first because it is more likely to be the issue). They are both fairly inexpensive parts (mine was about $110 for both) and they are easy to replace. You don't even need a mechanic for this fix. If you try this and it doesn't work, put your old parts back on, return the new ones and try replacing the throttle position sensor if you have a fuel injected model. Hope this helps.
That all depends if its a carbureted model or a fuel injected model. Carbureted model has an easy answer. You have a dead spot in the carb. you can do 1 of 2 things. Rebuild your old carb or buy a new one. Generally the float is just sticking. With fuel injected cars when you have a problem like that the check engine light should come on.
If it has a distributor, check to see that the weights under the rotor are free moving. If they stick, then the timing will be slow to advance and the engine will bog for a second or two.
MY WAGON WILL BEAT A LS1
Any of the above could be true. It also could be carbon build up in the intake lines, valves, & carb (if there is one.) If this is the case, a fuel intake cleaner will clear it out and a new fuel filter will also help. Carbon does the same thing to those components as cholesterol does in your arteries.
Just had this problem with a 350z. The car was cutting off at 5k rpms, then gradually got worst and started cutting off at 2500 rpms. Turned out it was a bad MAF sensor. I replaced mine at a very costly price! I would suggest (If applicable), clean your MAF sensor. You can buy the cleaner at autozone. Doesnt hurt to try!
Both sizes are 20"
Front Windshield Wiper Blade (both sides) . . . . . . . . . . Trico 20 inches (50.8 cm)
Backglass Wiper Blade . . . Trico 14 inches (35.6 cm)
See sources and related links below for more information.
It is on the driver's side on the valve cover. it has a rubber hose going to it. you just pull it out and it(pcv) will be on the end of it. I just replaced mine for the first time and had trouble finding it myself. It could be on either engine valve cover, but it's the only hose that runs directly from the valve cover to the air filter/ throttle body. The filter is on the valve side of this hose.
one of them is the fuel pump relay hope this helps ,PS neb
Left to right -
1. Fuel Pump Relay
2. Horn Relay
3. Fog Lamp Relay
The first thing I would check is the idle speed, second thing I would look (and listen) for is a vacuum leak, these are the 2 most common causes of your problem. Bill Alley
Check the plugs to make sure they aren't fouled. Then maybe the fuel pump. If it dies when you hit the brakes, that's electrical. I'd say it's the fuel pump, filter, etc.
When plugs are fouled, it probably wouldn't want to start, and brakes aren't electrical and the fuel pump isn't real likely either. Or maybe it ins't any of these, may want to look further down the list for a better answer.
Actually when you step on the brakes, it takes power from the battery or alternator to run the pump for the master cylinder on the brakes. (not true)
Doing so will cause your car to stall if the idle is too low. Turn the idle up and see if it happens again.
Same thing with the in gear driving. Putting the car in gear will drop the rpm to half or less than what it is already. Or maybe there is a better explanation down below.
The brakes have no pump. If they are power brakes, then it has a booster (and the booster uses engine vacuum, not electrical power) you can't adjust the idle speed in a FIed car. When you put the car in gear, the rpm should stay steady since the FI system should adjust for loads on the engine (turning the a/c on, putting car in gear, turning on lights etc) Do a tune up and go from there. By the sounds of it though, this is a lock-up torque convertor problem. The convertor lock is stuck on so the torque convertor is "solid" when you put it in gear.
If it is not an engine problem, it should be a problem with the transmission. When the gearshift is in drive, in this case, the gears get jammed with each other, causing the whole engine/drivetrain to lock up, stalling the engine. You should get a repair as soon as possible.
I know this sounds dumb,but i had a firebird that did the same thing in my shop & the only thing wrong was somebody put the wrong Tail light bulb in the socket & then forced it in wrong so when the brakes were applied it back fed the ignition system & killed the motor-It turned out 2 b a easy fix because I noticed the front running lights would come on when the brakes were applied when it pulled in 2 the shop.
I had that happen to me with my 86 Grand Am, it turned out to be a PCV valve, which was very cheap to fix...you could also try that.
It sounds like something I have been going through, In my case the car has an automatic transmition and the "Lock up celenoid" is the culpret. This little item (costs about 40 bucks give or take) is located in a ussually easy to get to area In my ride it is there right after removing the Trany pan.
What this thing does is causes the Torque converter to "Lock up" to the drive shaft - ussually in an overdrive type thing. When it gets stuck your car will stall.
The fixes that where suggested to me where replace the celenoid or try to use fresh trany fluid ( for a short term fix )
check your fuel filter & fuel pump/pressure...........also, once you put it in gear it puts a load on the engine, faulty igniton wires may start to "arc" once the load is on, it will cause engine to run like s***t or even stall completely...
Have a 95 Barina C14NZ with auto tranmission. Drives fine, idles fine, but when it is put into gear it stalls. Traced fault to temperature sensor connector (the one for the computer at the back of the manifold -- not the fan one at the radiator). This connector had some minor corrosion which increased the resistance and hence told the computer that the engine is cold, even when the engine was at operating temperature. This caused the engine to idle a bit higher, so when it was put into Drive or Reverse, it would cause the transmission to grab and stall the engine. Wriggling the connector temporarily fixed the problem; and replacing the temperature sensor was the final remedy. Good luck trouble shooting! :-)
I have 93 New Yorker - Car ran fine in park, but any other gear and it stalled. Believe it or not the black box (with the keys) had batteries that were dead. It had to do with the car alarm - New batteries, car runs fine in all gears. You could give it a try.
dude i just went through the same thing last week
unless the ignition itesl has been replaced since it left the plant 10 yrs ago, the orignal key has probably worn too thin to contact the tumblers anymore. you could either replace the whole ignition column or better yet, hit a car dealer and get them to cut you a new set of keys from a copy they have on file. nothin to it.
Had the same thing happen to me...keys down to the lights. What happened was someone tried to steal the vehicle and by forcing god knows what into the ignition, it made everything lose. Look closer at your ignition area you will be able to tell if someone pryed the area with something
= you ignition switch is worn out. replace it they cost about 4 bucks at any auto store
The cause could be a combination of worn key and ignition cylinder. First have a new key made, if that doesn't resolve the problem, then concider replacing the cylinder itself. Contrary to the above answer, it costs a bit more than "4 bucks" however the expertise comes when you begin to disassemble the steering column. The steering wheel must first be removed, then the turn signal cancelling cam along with moving the wiring harness. A special tool is required to compress the retaining spring clip assembly, then the key cylinder may be removed, using caution to note the position of the rack and gear train. It can be performed at home, but only if you're mechanically inclined.
No. It is not normal at all. Go to a mechanic and get their opinion. Engine knocks usually signify severe damage, and driving with it will cause even more damage. Always check your oil as well. Make sure it is clean and topped off. knocking can also sometimes mean you have the wrong octane but most of the time it means your tie rods or connecting rods are worn
A knock at idle however can only be bearings, it would be beneficial to get things looked at right away,
Hey Michelle==It really depends on what kind of car but probably the clutch and brake pedals are binding where they pivot. and the accelerator is binding in the cable. Sometimes you have to completely remove them to properly lubricate them and replace the acc cable. GoodluckJoe losing presure in the rx-7 the clutch eases down to the floor Which pedal? If gas, I would lean toward a throttle bore cleaning.
Take it to a mechanic who will use a computer to read a problem code generated by the car's computer. He will repair the problem and reset the light.
Plain English problem codes are not used to encourage car owners to take their cars to the dealership for repair. However, any competent mechanic will have the handheld computer required to read the codes.AnswerPull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.
If the car ain't broke don't fix it ------------------------------------------------ The cover on the mirror will pry off. Try a table knife and work it around the edge of the cover. This is hard to get off without maring the plastic edge. Once you get the cover off, complete dis-assembly should be obvious.
There is a short in the wires in the turn signal circuit.
The combination switch in the steering column is a good place to check. Do the hazard lights still flash?
Hey Greg==Need a bunch more information. What kind of car, what engine and where the squeeks seem to come from and when does it squeek. It is just too general to try to diagnoise.GoodluckJoe answer squeeking is most likely to be caused by dry bushings in your suspesion also dry rubber mounts on shck absorbers, and dirt on shock absorber shaft try spraying wd40 into all the rubber bushings etc that you can see. might try giving car a complete lube job,as dry balljoints etc will squeek
check out this link
the easiest way to test your idea is to get two pieces of wire and put a fuse between them so that the fuse will take the load if there is a problem ,then check the link you suspect to be faulty first put one end of the made up wire where the link gets its power then put the other end of the madeup wire to where ever the power should be going by doing this you will bypass the fusable link as for now it will be supplied power from the new made up wire if the item works its the link if it makes no difference this is not the problem area good luck
Usualy a fuseable link that is fried will feel hard and not flexable. A continuty tester is the best way of testing it. Get a dvm volt meter.
Measure it with a meter. It is the only way to tell for sure.
good now for a quick check ...pull some in the fuseable link with your two fingers....if it streches it's shot...if it breacks looose it was making a bad connection and is bad any way....this is as quick of a test when you have just your brains to figure how to check circuits and parts. note. now what do you use to replace a fuseable link when you don't have one availaible? i know lets see if anyone else knows......
Each of these things can be checked independently of the others without spending any money on parts.
1-Low coolant level.
2-Restricted airflow to the radiator as from leaves or plastic bags in fron of it, or the plastic under-skirting being broken away (as from running up onto curb-stops.)
3-Restricted flow of within the radiator or hoses. Restricted flow in hoses is rarer, but rev the engine to 2000 to 2500 RPM for several seconds after the engine is fully warmed and look for either radiator hose to collapse. To check for restricted radiator, you can take the temperature of the radiator with a non-contact thermometer in several places or you can open the cap (if so equipped) and look for white deposits. White deposits mean you need a radiator. If your radiator has no cap, remove the upper hose and look in through that opening.
4-Poor heat transfer. Poor heat transfer can be radiator to air (look for missing or greenish radiator fins) or internal due to a high ratio of anti-freeze to water (use a hydrometer) or internal due to scale deposits (with an iron engine your coolant will be brownish, aluminum engines can be checked by removing the thermostat or water pump and looking inside for whitish deposits).
5-Insufficient coolant pumping. Metal water pump impellers can erode over time, especially with excessively old coolant. Plastic water pump impellers can break randomly, and are prone to break if the engine is a Ford Duratec or Volkswagen or if the water pump hasn't been replaced after an overheat. Cheap substandard $5 replacement water pumps have often have a poorly designed impeller that can become dislodged. To check, remove the thermostat(s) and fill the system with coolant or water. Remove the radiator cap (if so equipped, otherwise surge tank cap) and observe the coolant level while rapidly snapping the throttle from closed to wide open. The coolant level should change drastically (more than 1/4 inch) if the pump is good.
6-Exhaust gases leaking into radiator. This is usually caused by a leaky head gasket, but can also be caused by a cracked or eroded engine. Note that GM Quad-4 engines are particularly prone to cracking, and four cylinder Chrysler engines and cars owned by youthful males or Jewish women are prone to head gasket leakage. An electroneic gas analyzer can be used to check this condition, but for the do-it-yourselfer, check with the local parts store or tool dealer for a disposable chemical based detection kit.
7-Boiling. Boiling can be caused by too much water in the coolant, insufficient pressure due to a leak or a bad cap, Partially restricted water jackets, or overheating due to another cause. Presumably, any other overheating has already been ruled out so you might as well check for leaks, then replace the coolant with a correct mix and put a new cap on it. If you have a restricted water jacket, you're going to need the engine rebuilt.
***Fan related problems will _not_ cause overheating at highway speed.***AnswerThere are many possibilities. But if you are traveling locally a very short distance, possibly the engine does not reach temperature to open the thermostat. The water is circulating in the engine. On the highway, the car may reach temperature, opening the thermostat. Now the water is also going through the upper and lower radiator hoses and radiator. If there is a small leak in the hoses or radiator, that would cause overheating, now that the water is leaving the engine, (and is under pressure).
A pressure test of the cooling system usually will show a leak.
Especially if you notice fluid under the car after driving.AnswerA weak lower radiator hose could collapse at highway speeds but not lesser speeds around town. AnswerThe most likely cause is a plugged radiator. Over time sediment build up in a radiator. Every time a radiator is heated and then cools the sediment collects at the bottom of the radiator slowing reducing it's efficiency. I have seen this particular overheating problem numerous times and traced it to a plugged radiator. Take it to a shop and have the radiator rodded and repaired and it will cure your problem. AnswerHave your clutch fan checked. the tension of the clutch can weaken causing the fan to turn too slow at higher rpm's. AnswerI had a similar problem. If the car has sit for any length of time a mouse or rat may have built a nest in the muffler or exhaust pipe. This causes back pressure to build up at highway speeds but not at short low speed in town driving. If one of the other ans did not fix the problem this is worth a shot. Answeranother possibility is a blown or leaking head gasket. A cracked head/block will also cause a vehicle to overheat when operated at higher rpm, the crack doesn't expand until temperature is excessive. typically the vehicle will produce a smoky emission from the exhaust, but it is actually steam from the antifreeze/water mixture leaking into the combustion chamber.
More details would help. Sounds to me like your engine is running with fouled plugs during idle. , EzForJesus
* If it is shaking and rattling check if the engine rocks back and forth when you put it in reverse and then into drive, if so your motor or transmission mounts are worn/broken. If your engine does not rock back and forth, drive around and check to see if there is considerabe loss of torque and horsepower, if so get a free OBD code scan (avail. at most auto part stores.) OBD can detect engine misfires and other problems that could cause shaking. It could also be a bad air filter, bad spark plugs, bad fuel injector, or a problem with the throttle body.
*I'm reading your question as the front end shakes WHILE DRIVING, but not vibrate at idle. Tires are the most common cause of this.
For a low speed shake:
Either a belt inside the tire fails, or there's some separation in the tread area, or there's a 'bubble' in the tire causing the condition. Sometimes, it's just lug nuts that are left loose. All these conditions are dangerous, as a blowout is usually the end result.
For a shake at high speeds:
Usually this is caused by tires being unbalanced. At certain speeds the shake really is noticeable. Rotating your tires from the front to rear will usually identify that problem. (An unbalanced tire in the rear bounces, but the suspension will usually minimize the feel inside the car.)
This may also be caused by severely worn components: ball joints, steering arm, tie rod and tie rod ends. If these components are bad enough to cause you to feel the vibration inside the car, it is too dangerous to drive at that point. Complete loss of control (one or both front wheels not responding to the steering) may result.
My guess would be a misfiring cylinder or worn engine mounts. A fouled plug or bad wire will obviously interfere with normal combustion, and this will cause the car to shake fairly violently and run very rough. Your cars onboard computer may detect the misfire and set the check engine light.
From personal experience, my Honda Civic '97 when I was about to get on the freeway all of a sudden it started to shake really badly. When I started to drive, it was fine. The check engine started flashing every few seconds so I pulled off the freeway to go to a parking lot. I had to stop at a light and again it started shaking violently. It was definitely not a normal engine vibration when sitting at idle. When I took it to the shop and they had looked at it, they said a plug on one of the cylinders had eroded. They explained that the reason why it started shaking was that it went to a 4 cylinder to a 3 cylinder vehicle. That was just my experience with a shaking engine at idle but I'm sure there could be a multitude of reasons on why a car would shake more than normal. .
be more specific wich package .. Vin number offers clue to package
usually a 4.3liter V6 but may be the 4.2liter inline six
The Fuse Box Should Be up under the dash. You gota lay on the floor and reach up under the dash right above the brake petal or tear the whole dash out. Good luck ~Blazerfanatic
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