According to the related links below, intermittent wipers history of bad module under the hood upper driver side. Cost to replace just the part $80. or so. My mechanic soldered the wires back in place in module and saved me a bundle.

Additional...

If you are having wiper problems intermittently, you may have a loose connector at the wire harness-to-wiper motor interface. My 98 Blazer did after 8 years. Under the hood, at rear of engine compartment, near center, is the connector. Push it back in tightly, then put a cable tie/zip tie/ Ty-wrap on it and tighten carefully. Putting a wire around it and twisting the wire will last a little while, and then fail in a pouring rain like my first repair attempt. The cable ties won't creep loose.

You could also go to your local Chevrolet dealer and ask them to check your VIN, they will tell you if your car has any recalls on it, not only the wiper. They will do it for free.

Additional...

Everything above is correct, but also note that GM had a big issue with wiper motors in all the trucks in that era, including the blazer, that all you needed to do is ground the motor with a separate wire (I usually did it from the cover bolt to the mounting bolt) and issue would go away. I know that some of them also had an issue with the PC board (Wiper motor pulse board) inside the motor that would get corroded and is a super easy fix, you can buy a new PC board for about $20, it is about 4-6 screws and it is done.

I saw many hundreds $$$ flying out the window.

My spirits soared when the mechanic told me ' IT IS UNDER WARRANTY'.

Picked up car and NO CHARGE it was.

It seems that emmission parts are warranted for 7 years in Canadaand I guess in US.

If your car is fuel injected, the electronic throttle position sensor on the throttle body could be bad. The check engine light doesn't always come on, in this situation.

Well it kind of depends on how new the car is. If it's a newer one or your lights start to go dim as one person put it, it is quite simply the governor. Fairly cheap and easy to have that problem fixed. If it's an older vehicle read some of the answers below, they're pretty accurate, although one other thing it could be is a blocked catalytic converter.

I had the same problem with my van, after many misdiagnosed repairs it turned out to be that the 02 censor was not working properly, have that checked.

I surprised myself and resolved this problem on mine: Too much dirt, etc built up in in line fuel filter. As I accelerated larger demand for fuel caused blockage and starved off motor.

Check the little things first!

I have the same problem but not the answer.

But I have just realized that when it happens the driving lights go dim.

That all depends if its a carbureted model or a fuel injected model. Carbureted model has an easy answer. You have a dead spot in the carb. you can do 1 of 2 things. Rebuild your old carb or buy a new one. Generally the float is just sticking. With fuel injected cars when you have a problem like that the check engine light should come on.

If it has a distributor, check to see that the weights under the rotor are free moving. If they stick, then the timing will be slow to advance and the engine will bog for a second or two.

MY WAGON WILL BEAT A LS1

JMHO:

Any of the above could be true. It also could be carbon build up in the intake lines, valves, & carb (if there is one.) If this is the case, a fuel intake cleaner will clear it out and a new fuel filter will also help. Carbon does the same thing to those components as cholesterol does in your arteries.

Good luck!

Just had this problem with a 350z. The car was cutting off at 5k rpms, then gradually got worst and started cutting off at 2500 rpms. Turned out it was a bad MAF sensor. I replaced mine at a very costly price! I would suggest (If applicable), clean your MAF sensor. You can buy the cleaner at autozone. Doesnt hurt to try!

one of them is the fuel pump relay hope this helps ,PS neb

Left to right -

1. Fuel Pump Relay

2. Horn Relay

3. Fog Lamp Relay

dude i just went through the same thing last week

unless the ignition itesl has been replaced since it left the plant 10 yrs ago, the orignal key has probably worn too thin to contact the tumblers anymore. you could either replace the whole ignition column or better yet, hit a car dealer and get them to cut you a new set of keys from a copy they have on file. nothin to it.

1. 2 is much much cheaper. trust me.

cheers.

Had the same thing happen to me...keys down to the lights. What happened was someone tried to steal the vehicle and by forcing god knows what into the ignition, it made everything lose. Look closer at your ignition area you will be able to tell if someone pryed the area with something

= you ignition switch is worn out. replace it they cost about 4 bucks at any auto store

The cause could be a combination of worn key and ignition cylinder. First have a new key made, if that doesn't resolve the problem, then concider replacing the cylinder itself. Contrary to the above answer, it costs a bit more than "4 bucks" however the expertise comes when you begin to disassemble the steering column. The steering wheel must first be removed, then the turn signal cancelling cam along with moving the wiring harness. A special tool is required to compress the retaining spring clip assembly, then the key cylinder may be removed, using caution to note the position of the rack and gear train. It can be performed at home, but only if you're mechanically inclined.

Take it to a mechanic who will use a computer to read a problem code generated by the car's computer. He will repair the problem and reset the light.

Plain English problem codes are not used to encourage car owners to take their cars to the dealership for repair. However, any competent mechanic will have the handheld computer required to read the codes.

Each of these things can be checked independently of the others without spending any money on parts.

1-Low coolant level.

2-Restricted airflow to the radiator as from leaves or plastic bags in fron of it, or the plastic under-skirting being broken away (as from running up onto curb-stops.)

3-Restricted flow of within the radiator or hoses. Restricted flow in hoses is rarer, but rev the engine to 2000 to 2500 RPM for several seconds after the engine is fully warmed and look for either radiator hose to collapse. To check for restricted radiator, you can take the temperature of the radiator with a non-contact thermometer in several places or you can open the cap (if so equipped) and look for white deposits. White deposits mean you need a radiator. If your radiator has no cap, remove the upper hose and look in through that opening.

4-Poor heat transfer. Poor heat transfer can be radiator to air (look for missing or greenish radiator fins) or internal due to a high ratio of anti-freeze to water (use a hydrometer) or internal due to scale deposits (with an iron engine your coolant will be brownish, aluminum engines can be checked by removing the thermostat or water pump and looking inside for whitish deposits).

5-Insufficient coolant pumping. Metal water pump impellers can erode over time, especially with excessively old coolant. Plastic water pump impellers can break randomly, and are prone to break if the engine is a Ford Duratec or Volkswagen or if the water pump hasn't been replaced after an overheat. Cheap substandard $5 replacement water pumps have often have a poorly designed impeller that can become dislodged. To check, remove the thermostat(s) and fill the system with coolant or water. Remove the radiator cap (if so equipped, otherwise surge tank cap) and observe the coolant level while rapidly snapping the throttle from closed to wide open. The coolant level should change drastically (more than 1/4 inch) if the pump is good.

6-Exhaust gases leaking into radiator. This is usually caused by a leaky head gasket, but can also be caused by a cracked or eroded engine. Note that GM Quad-4 engines are particularly prone to cracking, and four cylinder Chrysler engines and cars owned by youthful males or Jewish women are prone to head gasket leakage. An electroneic gas analyzer can be used to check this condition, but for the do-it-yourselfer, check with the local parts store or tool dealer for a disposable chemical based detection kit.

7-Boiling. Boiling can be caused by too much water in the coolant, insufficient pressure due to a leak or a bad cap, Partially restricted water jackets, or overheating due to another cause. Presumably, any other overheating has already been ruled out so you might as well check for leaks, then replace the coolant with a correct mix and put a new cap on it. If you have a restricted water jacket, you're going to need the engine rebuilt.

***Fan related problems will _not_ cause overheating at highway speed.***

A pressure test of the cooling system usually will show a leak.

Especially if you notice fluid under the car after driving.

More details would help. Sounds to me like your engine is running with fouled plugs during idle. , EzForJesus

* If it is shaking and rattling check if the engine rocks back and forth when you put it in reverse and then into drive, if so your motor or transmission mounts are worn/broken. If your engine does not rock back and forth, drive around and check to see if there is considerabe loss of torque and horsepower, if so get a free OBD code scan (avail. at most auto part stores.) OBD can detect engine misfires and other problems that could cause shaking. It could also be a bad air filter, bad spark plugs, bad fuel injector, or a problem with the throttle body.

*I'm reading your question as the front end shakes WHILE DRIVING, but not vibrate at idle. Tires are the most common cause of this.

For a low speed shake:

Either a belt inside the tire fails, or there's some separation in the tread area, or there's a 'bubble' in the tire causing the condition. Sometimes, it's just lug nuts that are left loose. All these conditions are dangerous, as a blowout is usually the end result.

For a shake at high speeds:

Usually this is caused by tires being unbalanced. At certain speeds the shake really is noticeable. Rotating your tires from the front to rear will usually identify that problem. (An unbalanced tire in the rear bounces, but the suspension will usually minimize the feel inside the car.)

This may also be caused by severely worn components: ball joints, steering arm, tie rod and tie rod ends. If these components are bad enough to cause you to feel the vibration inside the car, it is too dangerous to drive at that point. Complete loss of control (one or both front wheels not responding to the steering) may result.

My guess would be a misfiring cylinder or worn engine mounts. A fouled plug or bad wire will obviously interfere with normal combustion, and this will cause the car to shake fairly violently and run very rough. Your cars onboard computer may detect the misfire and set the check engine light.

From personal experience, my Honda Civic '97 when I was about to get on the freeway all of a sudden it started to shake really badly. When I started to drive, it was fine. The check engine started flashing every few seconds so I pulled off the freeway to go to a parking lot. I had to stop at a light and again it started shaking violently. It was definitely not a normal engine vibration when sitting at idle. When I took it to the shop and they had looked at it, they said a plug on one of the cylinders had eroded. They explained that the reason why it started shaking was that it went to a 4 cylinder to a 3 cylinder vehicle. That was just my experience with a shaking engine at idle but I'm sure there could be a multitude of reasons on why a car would shake more than normal. .