10W-30 for non turbo. 5W-30 for turbo models
yes it will
remover battery post pos side remove all belts remove crank pulley may need a puller remove timing cover turn engine to top dead center no.1 piston up marks on cams with marks on timing cover crank key should be at 12 oclock.replacing water pump an all idler pulleys should be done
yes though you may need better than backyard mechanic knowledge. check the internet for "turbocharging". this will give you a basic idea of cost, what will work and some will give instructions on how to. alot of times they sell them in kits for the do-it-yourselfer. good luck
Of course you can put on a turbo, but you should probably get a professional opinion, and research witch is the best turbo for you.
Find another 93 eclipse or eagle talon in a junkyard and swap the parts from one car to the other and the computer also. And only run 5 pounds of boost. Which can be controlled by a boost controller.
It's possible but potentially very costly. Several things must be considered, including: (1) The current compression ratio of your engine - it will need to be lowered because of the increased air pressure in the manifold and combustion chambers from the turbo. (2) The fuel pressure regulator may need to be changed. (3) The intake and exhaust manifolds will need to be replaced with manifolds that have additional ports for the turbocharger connections. (4) The camshaft will need to come from a turbocharged car. I've seen this question pop up many times in car forums. It's usually cheaper (and safer) to just buy a car that has a stock turbo as opposed to spending a lot of money on turbocharging a naturally aspirated engine.
Correction. The camshaft need not be from a turbocharged car. Often times the cam specs are the same and sometimes N/A cars have wilder specs.
I've installed turbo's on a few cars that were originally NA. It's generally not as bad as many say it is and you can generally just put the kit on a healthy NA motor as long as you TUNE for it. The biggest thing that is overlooked is when you add something such as a turbo the engine will need more fuel/retard the timing. Example of parts:
Turbo manifold, turbo, oil feed/return lines, materials for a downpipe, materials for charge pipes, wastegate, blow-off valve (or recirc valve depending on MAP/MAF setup), intercooler (not always needed if boost is low enough), clutch to hold the power, silicone couplings/t-clamps for couplings, larger diameter exhaust system, engine management (DON'T cheap out and use an FMU or any piggy back system, most vehicles will either be able to be chipped and tuned by a professional or a standalone system can be used and tuned to your boost/power level.
Some things that are a good idea to change while in there are the head bolts. Most times the head will lift under boost if stronger bolts aren't used. Sometimes a thicker radiator is needed as well because of the extra heat the turbo can cause.
For vehicle specific stuff there are tons of forums out there online.
If it hasn't got a turbo there's no place for it to get boost from.
You nee to remove the crankshaft belt pulley, after that remove the lower timing belt cover. When you do that, you will gain access to the sensor and you should be able to replace it. After removing the lower timing belt cover you may need to turn the crankshaft so that the timing blade is not in the slot of the crankshaft timing sensor. On mine for some reason it doesn't like to come off with the blade on there at all, but mine got bent and so I replaced it with aftermarket timing sensor blade.
NGK recomends BR9EIX
autozone.com has detailed instructions on how to do it.
Hey James==There are bolts inside the door that hold the mirror on. Be careful as there are sharp surfaces inside the door. GoodluckJoe
Not sure if this will help you, but it did me, as my drive handle on my 1996 Eclipse just broke. I came across this website that has instructions and pictures.
Once struts fail, they have to be replaced. You will need a torx socket. I do not remember the size but but guys from almost any auto store can help you to find out. Make sure that you change them both.
I would recommend a linear actuator. It is electronic and speed adjustable. stylinconcepts.com should carry them. eBay may yield you the lowest cost however.
Alot of Vehicle speed sensors are located by the differential of the trans (so it can measure speed from the output of the trans). The most common problem I have seen with them is either heat from the exhaust mixed with age, the outside weather(winter areas like Wisconsin and salt on roads does wonders with the underbody), and wiring problems (from weather or age.)
The cheapest way is to do the job yourself. These cars were known to have gasket failures. A lot of times the gasket would allow coolant to leak into the oil. If your dipstick looks like a milkshake, chances are you have done some damage to bearings in the engine. You might not hear anything until a few months later.
As far as stopleak or dropping an egg into rad, I cant see any cheap way to do this job. The problem is you are trying to seal combustion chamber pressures from the cooling system, and visa versa. ........
I had good results from 2 small containers of alumaseal from discount auto supply.
I had this problem. I tried bars leak 3 times, didn't work. Did the head job, and then the oil pump died. We were told the bars leak probably did it. Also Bars leak killed the thermostat, had to replace it (but since the headgasket blew, change it anyway). It can also damage the heater coil.
No cheap way. The head set gasket set is 55 out the door, and the Haynes repair manual is 15. If you want JUST the head gasket (not a good idea) they're 17.00.
The one other thing is the bolts are Torque to Yield, you need to spend the 30 bucks extra for new head bolts. Also, you need RTV gasket maker too.
Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"
on mine you use the preset buttons to type in the code.... others you use the seek and scan buttons.... once the code is entered you press the tape or CD button
Still need this answer? I have a 97 eclipse turbo and the original owners manual - it's part of the CD player controls but i don't feel like going outside (cold) to get the manual unless u still need the answer. I had this problem a few times myself after having the dealer work on my car.
Loosen the belt tensioner. Make sure that the belt can be removed easily. Replace the belt with a new one. Check that belt is clean before installing. Clean the pulleys if you have to.
Tighten the belt tensioner to set proper tension.
Its all about taking care of your car. The harder you treat it, the quicker it will fail on you.
it happened to my Honda Accord yesterday also. Friend of mine used scanner to detect that problem and found out that the part name "Purge system solenoid valve" was broken. I hope this will give you a hint for your car. Thia problem can also be caused by an improperly installed air filter housing. The housing may not be sealed properly on its gaskets or the holding clips may not be set. It is an easy item to check! You may want to check your charcoal canister also...I had the same problem just two month's ago and that was the problem...I have a 99 Eclipse RS Spyder.... it is your roll over valve on the fuel tank i have a 97 rs too it had the same problem I would start with making sure you have a good seal on your gas cap as well (three clicks whenever it is removed and put back on). This is one of the most common causes of this code. Also, check all your vaccum lines for cracks from the gas tank to the evap system. Another cause, as mentioned above, is the purge solenoid sensor.
This is out of the haynes code book. Disconect the negative battery cable for thirty seconds.
Simply removing the negative terminal from the battery for a couple minute and put it back. that should work
If light keeps on apperaring, you should replace the oxygen sensor located on the headers.
Why would you replace the oxy sensor for no reason???????!!!!!!!
Get Auto Zone or Advanced to pull the codes for you first for free, then take action and fix it.
Sorry for the redundancy, but disconnecting the battery will reset the system. If the check engine light comes on, the most common problem is a bad oxygen sensor. That is why it was suggested that you replace them. If they are bad, you will be getting reduced fuel economy. There are 2 sensors: one before the catalytic converter and one right after the it. They are easily accessible, so replacement is easy.
; Another very common reason for check engine is a loose or bad gas cap
For a 2001 Eclipse here is what you do.
Pull out the plug that gives the light bulb juice, and remove the rubber seal around it. Then there is a little latch that will pull a little bit down and out [just like a safety pin]. THen pull out the bulb. Put the bulb in, and re-attach the pin. Then just pop the rubber seal back on [be sure to let the prongs of the bulb protrude so you can hook it back up], and then plug the energy source back into the bulb.
Then, wah-lah! You once again have headlights.
Good luck! You can do it!
To replace the headlight you have to remove the whole headlamp housing. Remove all 4 screws and unplug the harness in the back. there should be 2 screws on the back of the bulb remove those and change out the light.
I hope its not too late - i have a 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS and have had to change the headlights bulb also. You will not need any tools to do this.
Just open the hood, stick your hand directly behind the headlight you wish to change (preferbably when the engine is cool - its hot down there!)
Your feeling for a rubber gasket (round dark colored rubber thing, reminds me of the tub stopper).
When u find the gasket pull it out and Voila there's the bulb.
Simply disconnect the bulb from the other plastic piece (has wiring attached to it).
Remove the bulb from the rubber gasket change it and then put it back together
And its veryyyyyyyy simple, if it helps I'm a female and did this very quickly (no I'm not a mechanic either)
Usually there are 4 of them.
why are door locks made of metal
The VSS is above the rear differential, mounted on the bottom of the truck bed, very simple to install, its about $30 at autozone.
Its about 24 inches behind the front bumper, right in front of the oil pan. You'll lose about half a cup of oil when you twist it off. To install the new one, rub new oil on the gasket and spin the filter on until the gasket seats, then give it another 3/4 to 1 full turn.
An intercooler is placed in the airflow path between the turbocharger and the engine intake in order to cool the air after it has been compressed by the turbo. Compressing air heats it up. By cooling it back down, the air becomes denser. This means more air molecules go into the cylinder. This (when mixed with the proper amount of fuel) increases engine power compared to a non-intercooled engine.
The teeth on the timing belt right at the cranck shaft worn them selfs completley off so the cranck shaft just spins...Sounds like a starter but tis definitaly a timing belt problem...Bent valves and piston damage probaley
Give me food and I will live give me water and I will die what am I?
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