Hold down one of the buttons next to the LED display and you will see the numbers go up.

There is a chain driven balance shaft on the 4.0 L SOHC engine for the 4X4 Ford Explorers / Rangers

I'm in the Chicago-land area, and my key is working fine, but case broke (would not hold on a keychain... kinda important..). Called dealer, whole key costs $130.00 + a "programing" fee of $52.50. TOTAL = $182.50. Also bring proof of ownership. Won't sell me just the case. Called Ace Hardware... They told me they sell a key for about $60-$80 that will "program" itself to the car... kinda universally to many models. Will confirm this info later.

depends on the previous 5- 10 mins of driving . if you drove it hard all the way to the destination then 2 - 3 minutes is ok if you drove hard and then drive off " boost " for the last 4-5 mins then 30 sec - 1 min should be sufficent.

If your talking about turning the alarm off while it's beeping and churping,, try putting the key in the driver side door lock and turn..... it happened to me and I didn't realize it was my car's alarm going off till i opened the door..... the car is still new to me, just bought it a few months ago. 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS

It is located on the throttle body, it is on the side facing the front of the car between the throttle body and the valve cover

China

The clock, radio, and lighter adapter are all on one circuit and it is labeled "Lighter adapter."

The exact location of the 15a fuse is in the fuse box to the left of the steering wheel. The drivers side door needs to be open to access the fuse box which you will see a cover with an indent that you can grab and pull the cover out toward yourself exposing the fuses. You will see two 30a fuses, directly beneath the 30a fuses are three rows of fuses. The fuse is in the middle row and is the 4th one down or 3rd one from the bottom. On the back side of the fuse box cover you will see a diagram and can use that to reference the location as well. The diagram shows a picture of a burning cigarette and that is the 15a fuse that controls the upper display/clock and both cigarette lighter adapters. A small pair of plyers will help in removing the blown fuse and a new fuse can be found on the back of the cover.

The pin is called a "jiggle" pin. It's there to allow the system to bleed off any air pockets that might be sitting above the level of the port on the T stat. The pin should always be pointing towards the top of the engine.

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

The MAP sensor measures the Manifold Absolute Pressure or manifold vacuum. The manifold vacuum is a good gauge for your car's computer to tell how much load is on the engine (the more load, the lower the vacuum). By knowing the amount of load on the engine, the computer can then estimate air density and the mass flow rate, which enables the computer to determine the amount of fuel the engine needs.

Most older cars only have a MAP sensor, but on the Eclipse the MAP works as a back up system to the Mass Air Flow (MAF), which uses a heated wire in the engine's cold air intake to determine the amount of air flow to the engine and the engines fuel requirements. On the Eclipse, if the MAF fails for some reason, the MAP takes it's place and the engine is able to function as normal. I believe that the MAP on the Eclipse is also used as a barometric pressure sensor (BARO), which measures the atmospheric pressure, which is necessary for the computer to deliver the correct amount of fuel at different altitudes.

its located on the drivers side , between the master brake cylinder and the engine block. its a pain to get to. follow the a/c line down to it.

Basically a 10mm wrench to remove the Hot wire from the battery, which is bolted to the starter, also, the solenoid wire is clipped on, and the 14 or 17mm bolts holding the starter in. i cant remember what size exactly, id say 14mm. just run you hand back there and you can feel the wires. and the 2 bolts. disconnect battery first

Go to http://www.club3g.com/forum/3g-eclipse-general-discussion/76452-online-3g-service-manual-now-gt-s-info.html The forum website has the 3rd generation Service Manuals. Look at sections 21A -Clutch.pdf and 21B - Clutch Overhaul.pdf which has detailed diagrams and steps.

First thing you should check is the antifreeze level. If that is fine, replace the thermostat. If it still over heats after the thermostat, then most likely you need to replace the waterpump. If your antifreeze is low, check for leaks, the radiator, hoses, heater core, and water pump. If the water pump is leaking, that is your problem, replace that and thermostat all in one.

From top.

Get a manual on your car and do the job correctly.

yes though you may need better than backyard mechanic knowledge. check the internet for "turbocharging". this will give you a basic idea of cost, what will work and some will give instructions on how to. alot of times they sell them in kits for the do-it-yourselfer. good luck

Of course you can put on a turbo, but you should probably get a professional opinion, and research witch is the best turbo for you.

Find another 93 eclipse or eagle talon in a junkyard and swap the parts from one car to the other and the computer also. And only run 5 pounds of boost. Which can be controlled by a boost controller.

It's possible but potentially very costly. Several things must be considered, including: (1) The current compression ratio of your engine - it will need to be lowered because of the increased air pressure in the manifold and combustion chambers from the turbo. (2) The fuel pressure regulator may need to be changed. (3) The intake and exhaust manifolds will need to be replaced with manifolds that have additional ports for the turbocharger connections. (4) The camshaft will need to come from a turbocharged car. I've seen this question pop up many times in car forums. It's usually cheaper (and safer) to just buy a car that has a stock turbo as opposed to spending a lot of money on turbocharging a naturally aspirated engine.

Correction. The camshaft need not be from a turbocharged car. Often times the cam specs are the same and sometimes N/A cars have wilder specs.

I've installed turbo's on a few cars that were originally NA. It's generally not as bad as many say it is and you can generally just put the kit on a healthy NA motor as long as you TUNE for it. The biggest thing that is overlooked is when you add something such as a turbo the engine will need more fuel/retard the timing. Example of parts:

Turbo manifold, turbo, oil feed/return lines, materials for a downpipe, materials for charge pipes, wastegate, blow-off valve (or recirc valve depending on MAP/MAF setup), intercooler (not always needed if boost is low enough), clutch to hold the power, silicone couplings/t-clamps for couplings, larger diameter exhaust system, engine management (DON'T cheap out and use an FMU or any piggy back system, most vehicles will either be able to be chipped and tuned by a professional or a standalone system can be used and tuned to your boost/power level.

Some things that are a good idea to change while in there are the head bolts. Most times the head will lift under boost if stronger bolts aren't used. Sometimes a thicker radiator is needed as well because of the extra heat the turbo can cause.

For vehicle specific stuff there are tons of forums out there online.

get you a long crow bar an set it in the gruve between tranny an cv joint and beet it with a hammer after enough time it will pop enough to pry it out best way keep tranny in car bolted to motor i took mine out with it stuck in passenger side IT SUCKED trying to hold,pry, and beat it out the snap ring broke and lock my car in 3rd gear

1. Possibly a stopped up A/C drain line or heater core is bad.

2. Check the water "chutes" on each side of the car in the door hinge where decomposed leaves/dirt and small sticks and pine needles build up. Once cleared pour water through the fresh air intake under the wiper. Water should exit at the front of the doors under the car.

3. Standing with the driver door open pour a pitcher of water over the sunroof enough that spills over onto the roof and then rolls down the windshield...all down the side of the windshield - not toward the fresh air intakes. Water may drip from underneath the fuse housing cover. If so, pull that off continue to pour water. It will probably be coming out of the plastic (interior) cover of the cieling post dripping. The black plastic band that rounds over the roof from the top of the back window to the base of the windshield actually shifts from back to front about 2 inches total - the passenger side doesn't move at all. Some of the clips may be broke or something.

Duct taping up the side of the windshield and making sure to cover the small hole at the top were that strip overlaps the windshield strip prevented water from coming into the floardboard. Now its either find more clips to hold it better or some adhesive/silicone to lock it into place and test again. - cnathanw@nospam@ yahoo.com

The canister should be under the impala on the same side as the fuel filler pipe. The charcoal filled unit holds fuel vapors.

From your AC condensation tube..it's cloggd.