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its right in the front middle of the engine/ unscrew the bolt and pull it strait up/ if it gets stuck in the hole you will have to use a drill and carefully poke holes in it and brake it apart then pull it out

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Need a screwdriver or better yet a trim remover. slide the tip between the crank trim disk and the handle. You'll see the c-clip that holds it on. Difficult to get the clip off without it flying on you so be ready to catch it with your other hand. Be patient and take your time so you don't damage the door panel. Use a towel to protect it. I had to do this exact thing last weekend as I had to reconnect the lock mechanism in my passenger door. Total work time from start to finish was about 20 minutes.

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Checking and/or changing the ignition leads to the spark plugs. Solved my problem with this. Also solved the percieved problem with the clutch shudder when taking off.

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Open your owner's manual and look at the maintenance schedule. It tells you what to do and when.

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Could be about 100 different things but first thing to check would be your gas cap If it is loose or not sealing it will turn on the light. Note If that is the problem after it's tightened light will still stay on for 2-3 days have you changed the air filter. I have a 99, the light came on because the air filter needed to be replaced.

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Located in the fuse box. Fcing the engine, the box is located on the the right fender.

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If it has manual windows, the hardest part will be removing the "c" shaped clip on the window crank. Once you find the clip, hold a small flathead screwdirver stationary against one side of the clip. With another small flathead, pry under the other side of the clip. The rest is just taking off the screw head covers and taking out the screws.

On mine I could not see the clip. It's very well buried inside the handle. A trick I learned on the internet, that worked, is to slide a rag behind the handle. Work the edge of the rag in behind the handle and use a "sea-saw" motion back and forth. As if by magic, the rag will hook the clip and pull it off. You may or may not hear a pop as it comes off - I didn't. If it doesn't work, move the rag around in different positions. It doesn't take too long. Good tool = cloth shop rag, surprising but true!

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try mobil 1 engine oil i find they work really smooth with it and gives great mpg

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i am going on past experience here, but newer dashes(instrument panels) are all digital and just plug into a holder or wiring harness,the days of speedometer cables are basically gone forever.So,disconnect battery and find shroud screws and remove cover,then find instrument cluster screws and undo,cluster should then come out,look on back side for wiring plugs.

get a good eye loop and be in well lit area and inspect the pins were they are soldered into the board.If you find a solder connection that looks like it has a round crack or i/2 round crack then there is probably the problem.This called a cold solder joint.You can resolder if you know how or find an electronics buddy who knows how to solder and let him/her do it for you. If you have instrument with digital numbers it is on possibly the digital display has gone bad,in that case it's junk yard time or purchase a new one.hope this helps.

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I belong to the FTO owners club here in England. I found some information you may be looking for. http://ftooc.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=18530&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

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high miles, thin oil, bad valve guides, worn piston rings, leaky head gasket, and/ or a leaky PCV valve.

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You'll need an inductive timing light. Connect to the battery, and clip the induction lead over the #1 spark plug wire. Start the car. The timing mark on the crankshaft pully will appear stationary when you point the light at it, and should correspond to the timing guage(mounted on the timing belt cover). Look on the emissions tag in the engine compartment to determine the correct setting. You'll need to loosen the nuts that hold the distributor , so you'll be able to rotate it. Watch your fingers, tie back your hair, and avoid loose fitting clothing! What year is your car, and what is the timing recommended on the emissions tag?

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The thread is right handed (normal thread) and you need to turn it anti-clockwise to loosen it. On my dodge colt, it took an extension tube nearly 5 feet long to loosen this bolt. The difficult part is stopping the engine from rotating while you apply the necessary force.

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1. Loosen the idler pullery bracket adjustment and pivot bolts. 2. Position a suitable belt tension gauge. 3. Install a 1/2 in. breaker bar in the hole in the idler pulley bracket. Apply tension to the belt using the breaker bar. 4. Set the tension on a new belt to 170 lbs or a used belt to 140lbs. While maintaining the tension, tighten the adjustment bolt to 30ft. lbs 5. Remove the belt tension gauge and the breaker bar. Start the engine and let it idle for 5 minutes. 6. Shut the engine off, then reinstall the belt tension gauge and breaker bar. Apply tension with the breaker bar and slowly loosen the adjustment bolt to allow belt tension to increase to the used belt specification, 140 ft. lbs. Tighten the adjustment bolt to 30 ft. lbs. 7. Tighten the pivot bolt to 50ft. lbs.

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Not sure if its the same as on my '89. On the '89 it is in the centre console forward of the shifter. The '89 actually has two relays in the bos, so even if the fuel pump relay is shot, you may still here the other one click when you turn on the ignition. Hope that helps.

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The wire number 1 is marked. The rotor moves counter clock-wise. The firing order is 1,3,4,2. I hope this was of help.

on my 91 1.5 mirage the rotor spins clockwise (facing distributer from the passenger side?, i discovered this when your intructions failed to get my car started , the firing order was 1,3,4,2, driver side being the 1

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VERY CAREFULLY This is a tricky procedure and shouldn't be attempted by the backyard type. Engine damage WILL occur if not done correctly. Pay the three hours to has a technician do it

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What parts did you replace? If spark plug wires were removed, you might have them on the wrong posts. NMI You should have taken the car to an independent repair shop to begin with, you may be burying the problem by guessing.

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