-It is actually illegal for Autozone employees to just erase the engine code because they did it before and got sued by several people because they erased the engine code and then something went wrong with the car and the people got hurt in accidents. so they arent actually supposed to. i only know because my boyfriend works there and he and his boss explained this to me one day when i was curious about this exact thing and started asking questions.

I just had the EGR valve replaced on our 98 Accord for the second time in two years. At least the price of the part has come down a huge amount in this time - from $300 to $70 - I suppose since it is a mass produced item since so many 98 Accords have this problem. The last time the car had under 80Kmi so was under warranty but this time I paid an independent mechanic $170 which included the part. He said it is a poor design since even a speck of carbon in the EGR valve can cause it to stay open and the check engine light to come on. And he expects it will happen more often as the car gets older.

An guy who is a mechanic where I work said he thought it was best to clean out the deposits and a good product to do this was Marvel Mystery Oil (at Walmart for about $2 per pint). He said to use 4 oz in the gas tank when filling once per month for a few months. Besides possibly preventing the valve from fouling as often, this should also allow the car to run longer without needing premium fuel, according to him.

Every Honda I have had (and all I have had is Hondas for well over 20 years) has required midgrade fuel at about 120Kmi then premium at around 160Kmi to prevent it from pinging, no matter how many times I had it tuned, the plugs replaced, and the valves adjusted. The guy said the Marvel Mystery Oil will fix this, too - use it once per month until the premium fuel is no longer needed, which will take 3 to 4 months. I have no idea if this will work (it's a Mystery to me! ) but I will give it a try since otherwise this is still an excellent car.

Here is more input from others:

• When I bought the 99 Accord the salesmen told me that the Check Engine Light would come on at about 7K miles and not to be alarmed. This would be freindly a reminder to bring it in for the 1st service he said. Well just as the guy said at aproximatly 7K the check engine light came on. I called the service department and he insisted on me bringing it in so that they would perform the normal oil/filter changes then reset the light. After a bit I convinced the guy to tell me how to reset the light.

• THIS IS HOW YOU RESET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON THE 99 HONDA ACCORD. 1. With the Car Off, Press and hold down the Odometer Trip Reset Button. 2. While still pressing the Trip Reset Button, Turn the Ignition Key half way on where all your oil, check engine lights etc.. turn on. Don't turn it as far as you would to normally start the car. Wait a few seconds and the Check engine light will turn off. 3. Turn the key back to the Off position and you're done. What a scam Honda has with the BS Check Engine Light.

• In the repair book it says to remove the number 13 (clock back up) fuse on the passenger side while the ignition is off for 10 seconds. That should work according to the repair. If the light comes back on then u might have a problem.

• Two different things being addressed on this whole topic. 1. To reset the "Maint Rqrd" light, you push and hold the reset knob and then engage the accessories via the the ignition switch. 2. To reset the "Check Engine" light, you need to either pull the fuse already mentioned in previous answers or disconnect the negative battery cable for a while. (Then make sure you know the Radio Code to reset your radio unit so it works).

• The previous steps for resetting the service light and the check engine light also work on the 2000 Honda Accord. Excellent insights! Thank you! Just a note for the novice repairmen: the fuse panel is inside the passenger door on the side of the dash assembly (not under the hood).

• First you need to determine if it is a "check engine light" or a "maintainance required light" A check engine light is usually an amber light with the picture of an engine with a line through it. If this light is on you should take it to a QUALIFIED REPAIR TECHNICIAN who is capable of working on a Honda. They have all the tools needed to diagnose your repair.If it is a maint. required light new Honda"s are reset by holding the trip reset button down and turn the ignition switch to "on" while holding the button. wait until the light goes out (about 15 seconds) before releasing the button. This light will come on every 7500 miles.

• AS YOU KNOW THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON FOR A VARIETY OF REASONS. A DIAGNOSTIC WOULD NEED TO BE RUN TO SEE WHAT CODES ARE COMING UP. ASSUMING THAT YOU HAVE DONE THIS AND MADE THE NECESSARY REPAIRS AT A SHOP, THEN THE SHOP SHOULD HAVE RESET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. IF YOU DID THE REPAIRS YOURSELF YOU CAN DISCONNECT THE BATTERY(BOTH POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE TERMINALS) LET IT SIT FOR ABOUT 15-30 MINUTES. IF YOU RECONNECT THE BATTERY AND START THE ENGINE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES BACK ON, THEN ALL OF THE NECESSARY REPAIRS HAVE NOT BEEN DONE.

• All you have to do is disconnect the Negative battery terminal. It is not necessary to disconnect both. Once you've disconnected the terminal, let the car sit with no power for a few minutes, then reconnect the battery terminal. Your light should not come on, unless your engine sensors throw another code through your car's computer.

• You DO NOT need to disconnect the battery terminals. All you have to do is turn the key to the "on" position (not running, but so that the radio etc. come on) and hold the trip reset button for about 15-20 seconds. KEEP IN MIND - that the light could be an indication of needed service as opposed to just coming on based on mileage.

• To be clear, you must hold in the trip odometer reset button and THEN turn the key to the "on" position. If you prefer the battery disconnect method, be sure you have your radio code handy to re-initiate.

The best and only true way to reset a "check engine light" is not to go to Autozone or any where that has a scan tool or OBD II and have it turned off just fix the problem then a auto technican will turn it off or it will just come back on in a matter of time,

DON'T disconnect the battery your just going to reset your vehicles memory and reset all emission monitors and have to go through a drive cycle and by time it resets its going to trigger the "engine light" agian.

autozone employees are parts people. a code does not tell you what the problem is, it tells you where to look for the part, dont buy an egr when it says egr under par. look for a technical school around you, for a nominal lab fee (my school's is 12 dollars) they will do a professional diagnosis on your vehicle, and if you buy the part, they will replace it with free labor. disconnecting the battery cables and slapping them together is a terrible way to clear the code as it will only come back and it will also reset your vehicles eprom, which may decrease fuel economy.

*Holding in the odometer trip reset button in then turning on the ignition until the accessories come on only resets your maintenance required light. On a 98 Honda Accord LX under the hood left side right up against the fire wall there is a fuse box. Open the box and look for the ACC back up fuse. It's not your typical fuse, it is larger and square and on my car it is clear. Pull it out for 30 sec or so then stick it back in and go start your car. The light should go out. If it comes back on then you have a code that you need to get fix by a mechanic or something simple like a gas cap and fuel injector cleaner. When you do start your car you should have to reset your clock but everything else should be O.K. This is just to turn off that annoying light but you should get your car checked out or you might have more damage unless you know that your car is O.K. and the light just comes on......

1999 Honda Accord EX V6 Check Engine Light Comes On - Take to Autozone for Free Code Check. If the code reader diagnoses a code P1491, it indicates the EGR valve or port (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve or port (located inside the driver side intake manifold on the top of the engine) has accumulations of fuel debris buildup that is clogging up the valve or port. This fuel debris buildup causes obstruction of the EGR valve or port which causes the Check Engine Light to come on. The purpose of the EGR valve is to channel unburned gas that is released into the exhaust back into the intake manifold to burn it and reduce emissions. The cost to fix this at a Honda dealership is $380.00 and a good independent shop is $180.00. You can also remove the intake manifold and clean the debris from the EGR port yourself. A much easier and less expensive way to fix this problem is to purchase S1-1 Red Line Complete Fuel System Cleaner (15 ounces per bottle) at Schucks O'Reilly Auto Parts for $9.99 per bottle. Add one 15 ounce bottle to your gas tank (one bottle of S1-1 Red Line to 20 gallons of gas) and fill your gas tank. This will clean your EGR valve and all of the fuel system. You may have to use several bottles (one per tankful of gas) to clean your fuel system depending how much fuel debris buidlup you have in your engine. After the fuel debris is removed by the S1-1 Red Line Complete Fuel System Cleaner, your check engine light will not go off. To get your check engine light to go off, disconnect your positive and negative battery cables for 30 minutes then reattach them. Reset your Honda Accord clock and enter the radio code on your radio to get the radio to work again. It took me a while to research this but it works, its easy, and it will save you money and make your car run efficiently again.

2001 Honda Odyssey: Removing the #13 "Clock Backup" fuse (7.5Amp) for 1 minute or so and then reinstalling it worked perfectly to clear the "Check Engine Light"! The fuse box is located under a small panel by the passenger side right floor kick-panel, very easy access. Keep in mind that I did the maintenance myself to properly fix the EGR problem that had caused the "EGR flow insufficient" code to make my check engine light come on. I performed the repair, then cleared the check engine light by pulling the fuse. Now I can go get my car smog checked! Thanks everybody! God Bless!

Side has many meanings as noun and as an adjective.

Literally:

1. Mathematics.
   1. A line bounding a plane figure.
   2. A surface bounding a solid figure.
2. A surface of an object, especially a surface joining a top and bottom: the four sides of a box.
3. A surface of an object that extends more or less perpendicularly from an observer standing in front: the side of the ship.
4. Either of the two surfaces of a flat object: the front side of a piece of paper; the two sides of a record.
5. 1. The part within an object or area to the left or right of the observer or of its vertical axis.
   2. The left or right half of the trunk of a human or animal body: always sleeps on his side; a side of beef.
6. 1. The space immediately next to someone: stood at her father's side.
   2. The space immediately next to something. Often used in combination: courtside; dockside.
7. One of two or more contrasted parts or places within an area, identified by its location with respect to a center: the north side of the park.
8. An area separated from another area by an intervening feature, such as a line or barrier: on this side of the Atlantic; the district on the other side of the railroad tracks.
9. 1. One of two or more opposing individuals, groups, teams, or sets of opinions.
   2. One of the positions maintained in a dispute or debate.
10. A distinct aspect: the shy side of his personality.
11. Line of descent: my aunt on my mother's side.
12. An incomplete script that shows the lines and cues of a single performer only. Often used in the plural.
13. Chiefly British. Affected superiority; arrogance.

adj.

1. Located on a side: a side door.
2. From or to one side; oblique: a side view.
3. Minor; incidental: a side interest.
4. In addition to the main part; supplementary: a side benefit.

Open the hood and look around. It is right there in front of you on the engine. If you cannot find the dipstick then you need to shut the hood and seek professional help. You have no business under the hood of your Honda.

Wilke339's answer:

If your Accord is 4 cylinder, the oil dipstick probably has a yellow pull ring handle, and is located toward the driver's side of the engine, up high near the top belt pulley.

Here is advice and input from Wiki s contributors:

• No, they aren't good.
• My 17-year-old has a 97 Accord with 160,000 miles. 4 Cylinder manual trans. Great car for him. Loves that it is a stick. Runs reliably and when you need parts they are cheap and readily available. Just paid $22 for a clutch slave cylinder at Pep Boys. Only issue is they do rust badly so make sure it is sound before you buy.
• Depends.... You can go to your nearest Honda dealer and test-drive it.
• It Definately is, I have owned one since i was 16, I turn 18 in 5 days, and I dropped the transmission but that was my own fault for running it wrong, I put 20,000 miles on it a year, and I have a little over 200,000 miles now. It still runs like it has 160,000 miles. I wouldn't trade it for anything.
• I have had a 97 se since i was 15 just turned 17 i love it iwas also lucky to have it re painted you should buy 1

--DudeItsAHonda

You take it to the dealer (or a very knowledgable specialist shop - for a Honda one should be fairly easy to find locally, and have the required servicing done...

At 60,000 miles, many modern cars require replacement of the timing belt. Although the procedure is probably the most costly of the Scheduled Maintenance Items, unlike many more mundane items such as changing the wiper blades, oil, or tires, failure to replace this belt in a timely (pardon the pun) fashion will, in most modern cars, *DESTROY* the engine when (not if---*when*) the timing belt does fail.

Common Parts to Replace a Timing Belt: Timing Belt 3-5 Miscellaneous pulleys Hydraulic belt tensioner assembly and pulley. On some cars, this is a good time to replace the water pump, since you're already pulling the front of the engine that far apart, anyway. Total cost: $600-800 is probably not unreasonable.

Common Parts to Replace a FAILED Timing Belt: Timing Belt 3-5 Miscellaneous pulleys Hydraulic belt tensioner assembly and pulley. On some cars, this is a good time to replace the water pump, since you're already pulling the front of the engine that far apart, anyway. 1 cylinder head 16 valves 1-4 pistons damaged when the valves smack into them reworking the inside of the cylinders if they get scratched or scored. Towing costs. rental car costs. etc.

Just take it in... =) Total cost: $600-800 is probably not unreasonable.

Common parts to replace

I'm not entirely sure about the Accord, but this answer works for the same year of Civic, Prelude, and Acura (Honda) Integra. It will probably work for the Accord, too. On the typical Honda gauge layout, there is a small, rectangular, recessed button directly to the left of the "Maintenance Required" light. Using your car key, you can press this button in, which will cause the light to turn green. The maintenance light (at least on my Civic) will come on about every 4000 miles if not reset (for oil changes), and also periodically for other scheduled maintenance.

on the '97 accord in the dash panel layout, near the mileage, is a small black box, your key should fit right into it, push it in and it should go away. you can also look in the owner's manual, it'll say in there. the light usually comes on after so many miles, and most places that aren't the dealer won't know to put the key in there to reset it so it might come on before maintenance is needed.

With the key off, hold down the trip meter reset button. turn the key on and continue holding the reset button in until the maintenance light goes off, about 10 seconds. Source: owners manual.

97 Honda Accord LX

Just push in the black button next to the Maintenance required light after you have changed the oil in all the way and the light will turn green again. Works in mine. No key in the ignition required.

Turn Wheel for Access. Remove tire. Remove Brake Pads. Remove Brake Caliper. Find Hole in back of Rotor and align Stud for Removal. Beat out with mallet. Put in New Stud, use sacrificial lug nut, washer, and breaker bar to pull lug into seated position. Reinstall caliper, pads, and wheel.

Answer:

The above answer is wrong for Honda Accord, replacing a broken lug nut stud requires removal of the hub bearing assembly. It involves separating ball joints, tie rod, removal of the steering knuckle, hub assembly. There is no "find hole in back of rotor", not accessible with hub assembly installed.

For owners manuals and such, consult the manufacturing company. For around $20.00 US I believe that you can purchase a manual for your vehicle and it can be sent directly to your home. Also, you might want to try looking at online auctions, quite often they sell small articles such as manuals/wiring diagrams etc.

You could also try (if in canada) Canadian Tire or any sort of automotive store similar to that. I got my owner's there.

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I own a 2001 Honda Accord V-6 so if there is a simple question I would try to help.

For 2009 or later Honda Pilot, it is very easy - a 5 minute job - and no tools required. The filters are around $25 from Honda (80292-SHJ-A41) but much cheaper after market.

1. Empty and open the glovebox.
2. Press the 2 tabs on the sides.
3. Swing the glovebox ALL the way towards the floor so the opening behind the glovebox is fully accessible.
4. Inside the opening is a black tray - around 8" square. Press the 2 "tabs" on each side of tray and pull the tray out.
5. Put the new filter in with the arrow on the side of the filter facing DOWN towards the floor.
6. Slide the tray back in.
7. Close the glovebox.

I changed mine at 19K and it was VERY dirty. I would recommend changing every year - especially if you have allergies.

For 2008 and older - you need to cut the plastic tab and take out screws.