I haven't seen you, dumb-dumb, so how do I know?
3,6,9,12,15,18,21,24,27,30,33,36,39,42,45,48,51,54,57,60,63,66,69,72,75,78,81,84 ,87,90,93,96 and 99
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Green
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Red
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Front Speakers Size: N/A
Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Black
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Red
Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
Here is a link to an autoMedia.com's autoCare article which should be helpful. http://www.automedia.com/autoCare/ccr20041201th/ccr20041201th.asp?affid=
This is a very easy repair. Most anyone can do it.
As always, unhook the negative cable from your battery.
Then drain some of the coolant from your radiator. Tighten the draincock after you do. Turn that coolant in for recycling.
Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. The thing it's hooked to is the housing for the thermostat. It's in three pieces; the thermostat is in the outermost one. Remove this piece. Look at how the thermostat is oriented in the housing, because it goes back the same way as it came out, and then remove the thermostat.
When you buy your thermostat, always get a new gasket. You put the gasket on the thermostat, put the thermostat in the housing, and put the housing back on the engine. Torque it to 7 lb-ft and you're almost done.
Next, use a 12mm deep well socket to loosen the bleeder bolt. This is on top of the thermostat housing, between the coolant temperature sender (for the gauge) and the thermowax sensor (for the fuel injection system). It looks like a silver bolt with a nipple sticking up out the middle of it, and it's the only thing on there that doesn't have wires coming out of it. Anyway, loosen this up about a half-turn or so. Open the radiator cap and start pouring either "all makes all models" antifreeze, or "Honda Genuine" antifreeze, into the radiator until some comes out of the bleeder bolt. Close the bleeder bolt, put the radiator cap back on, hook the battery back up, and you're done.
I faced this with two different Hondas- 88 & 92. I have a pretty good tool collection, aptitude, talent, etc. I came to the conclusion that paying the garage was the way to do it. They put the cars up on hoists, had the right tools, could get leverage etc. They loosened the bolts, zipped them out, put antisieze on it, and zipped them back in with 120 lb-ft air wrenches. I drove home and finished job myself. Part of the deal is that I can take the cars back and get them further tightened.
It was an independent garage that agreed to do this. They are great guys. I pay full shop price for this, about $30. But it was worth it.
Point - while we all want to do it ourselves and save $$, do get friendly with an independent shop so you can get help occasionally.
While some home remedies are pretty creative, consider that if you mess around and break that bolt, you will have a very long day ahead of you, chewing out that bolt with dremel / drill.
You need an impact wrench that puts out at least 400 lb-ft of torque. For the home mechanic that doesn't have a 60-gallon air compressor, an electric one is the best bet. A standard 125psi home air compressor isn't strong enough to turn this bolt. I got my wrench at Harbor Freight, but I've seen them at Home Depot (the Ridgid brand) and Lowe's (the Kobalt brand). Put a deep-well impact socket on, stick it on the bolt and hit the trigger. That bolt will screw out WITHOUT holding the pulley in place.AnswerThere is a special tool to hold the pulley while you loosen the bolt, I have done many of these. A large impact gun may work if there is enough air volume from the compressor, small compressors that most people have at home will not be sufficient. Locking the flywheel with a screwdriver, might damage the flywheel teeth (not advisable). Honda engines rotate counter clock-wise, so wedging a breaker bar with a socket on the bolt and turning the engine over will TIGHTEN the bolt more, not loosen it. Using the tool is the best method, It can be shipped overnight from DenLorsTools.com 1.800.524.9783, there is also a "How To" article with tips on loosening the crank bolt (video shows tool in use) and changing timing belts on Honda's and Acura's. Answeryou need to get a flywheel lock,it bolts on in place of the starter and keeps the engine from turning when you try to losen the pulley AnswerYes. There's a pulley holding tool that will allow you to hold the pulley while turning the bolt. The bolt ratched is inserted thru the pulley holder. AnswerI'm not sure if this is the same (because I used this technique on a 1987 Nissan 300ZX), but it may work. I read the Chilton manual and it instructed me to insert a flat-head screwdriver into something (not sure what it's called) that was located to the left of the top of the engine. I tried for a week to get the pulley off (I missed the screwdriver part at first), but it always kept pulling, no matter how hard I held onto it. After I read the instructions again, the pulley came off in less than 30 seconds. :) AnswerI'll tell you the truth. I've done this job many times and the only special tool I will ever use is a big old pnumatic impact driver with at least 150 PSI behind it. I'll tell you why. Honda has been know to torque those bolt on up to 300 foot-pounds. What's more, the bold it designed to stretch, making it even more impossible to remove with simple hand tools. I know of know lock for the fly wheel, since not all hondas have fly wheels. The only special tool I know of is a large hex wrench that fits into the balancer to hold the pully while being wrenched on, but an impact driver is all but the only good way of of removing it. DO NOT try putting a wrench on it and hitting the starter!!! This may work on Toyotas and some other motors, but Honda engines turn counter-clockwise. AnswerI wish I had seen the entry about the not using the starter before I tried. It didn't damage anything, just tightened by bolt even more. I finally got it and here's how:
I refused to wait for the dealer parts department to open M-F to get the special Honda tool which holds the crankshaft pulley and I'm too cheap to spend the $50 bucks. So, I went to Lowes and got a 1.5" X 2" galvanized coupling and a 1.5" X 1" galvanized bushing. The bushing has a hex head that was slightly too big. I used an angle grinder to shave it down and each side. I needed the coupling to give me enough length to get past the pulley. I then used a 12" pipe wrench on this with a brick wedged under it. the handle of the pipewrench was under the coupling the pointing to the front of the car. I had to turn the pulley with my breaker bar to get tension on this as it didn't fit snug enough to hold itself up. Initially, I found the only progress I was making was continuing to tighten the bushing/coupling joint but eventually it bottomed out and the torque started to apply to the bolt.
Next, I couldn't figure out how to get a long cheater on the breaker bar. Here, my friend led me to add to my 19mm, 1/2" drive socket, 10" and 6" extensions (16" total). I supported these extensions with a jack stand. I attached my 18" breaker bar to the extensions and a 4 foot cheater pipe to the breaker bar. I put all my weight on the pipe and in a few seconds I heard that beautiful snap of the bolt breaking loose. Once I got the right leverage, it was a piece of cake. Getting the right leverage took two days of talking to a whole bunch of people, trying many different setups, using heat, a sledge hammer and my friends impact. Ultimately, it all goes back to leverage.AnswerI recently had to remove the crankshaft bolt on a 1986 accord. It really wasnt all that complicated.The pully is solid so it's one piece, there is still 4 holes about 5/16 dia. in the pully.Take a flat bar around 17"long 1"wide 1/4thickness.Home Depot or Lowes has bar stock maybe not these exact diamentions but close enough.Drill 2 holes in the bar that will line up to 2 of the holes in the pully.Stick a bolt thru the bar and pully holes and put a nut on the other end,fastening it to the pully.This allows the pully to turn only to the point the bar hits the cv shaft or whatevers stationary and solid.Same as the guy above this (mine was a 17mm.socket)put a 6&10" 1/2"drive extention together,(I used a impact sockett),Put a 1/2 drive breakerbar or ratchett with a length of pipe for levarage.I didnt use a jackstand or anything I just held everything with my left hand and pushed with my right.Came right off and I also tried the old turn the motor over trick so it was pretty tight!!!The bar held perfectly.
Hey Shawn==It is 1-3-4-2 Joe
If you have an automatic transmission, I would recommend installing a transmission fluid cooler (like a radiator for your transmission, about $25) to keep the temperature down from stop-and-go driving. I would also check the brakes and replace them, they are very cheap for a new set. Have your transmission flushed by a pro shop, about $100 for that service, change the engine oil religiously with synthetic high-mileage oil every 2500-3000 miles. There's nothing else that special you need to know, the 86-89 Honda Accords are still among the most reliable and durable cars on the road. I have three of them ranging from 1986-1988 anywhere from 90,000 miles to 269,000 miles, and they all run perfectly with standard vehicle preventive maintenance. I just really wanted to emphasize the oil changes. Personally, I'd skip the synthetic oil. For frequent trips, (Less than 5 miles) I'd recommend changing the oil every 1500 miles (2500km) with some brand name regular non-synthetic oil. (Castrol, Shell, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc...) I would also keep a very close eye on the PCV system. With short trips where the oil cannot come up to operating temperature, moisture builds up in the oil. An early warning sign of excess moisture is buildup of a tan/yellow/pale looking sludge on the inside of your oil cap. This is because the cap is usually the coldest part, and moisture will condense on it. This sludge will also gum up your PCV valve. Another option, if you make several short trips, along with a long, non-stop (50 miles or more on the highway) trip every week, you could probably get away fine with the 3000miles interval, as the long trips will give the water in the oil a chance to evaporate. (Granted the PCV system is working properly)
couple of possible solutions:
1. replace the clutch 2. compression test your cylinders. if poor compression at 172k. sorry. 3. run some fuelsystem cleaner. 4. replace your spark plugs, and wires. if your spark is not strong enough the fuel will not burn fully causing power loss. also replace distributor cap and rotor of applicable. 5. run some premium grade gassoline for 5 or 6 tanks. especially if you have used regular the whole time. if you have you will have some nasty deposits on your valves and build up in your fuel delivery system. premium fuel burns hotter and slower, this will allow it to burn off deposits. the slower burn gives you better gas mileage as well. 6. make sure you have a clean air filter. if your engine cannot breath it gets backed up and robbs power. 7. if nescessary, replace your catalytic converter. this is for the same reason as 6. only at the opposite end. cats can get restricted and or clogged.
I would start with a tune up... Spark Plugs, Wires, And an Air filter. If that doesn"t work start with the easiest to replace and cheapest until you get to what the real problem is
4 quarts with a filiter change.
If by "disconnected" you mean unbolted, and if by "fix" you mean re-bolting, then it's not hard. It should consist of an endlink, which is typically just a bolt that connects the end of the sway bar to the lower control arm. Endlink bushings should sit on either side of the sway bar and on either side of the lower control arm. If you look at the way the sway bar is connected on the driver's side, it should be easy to figure out.
Yes it will fit.
i have a cold air intake on my car (universal for a 92-00 civic cut to size) so the airbox is out, but all you do is is losen the bottom bolt to allow the alternator to pivit, then you losen the tensioner bolt to remove the belt and the alternator. unplug the clip and undo the bolt that holds the power wire and your set. if you cant get the alternator back in the bottom bracket when installing...jack up the on the right side, remove the tire if it makes it easier, align the bolt hole the best you can (use a small screwdriver to half align it it you need to) then put the bolt in and use a hammer to send it through. connect the wires, belt, and tensioner and wha-la. your done. course i did this in my driveway so a shop makes it eaiser. ive already had it out like 5 times already and check the power wire incase it breaks or if your battery light is on. mine broke up by the battery and i think that its 8 guage wire if not 6 but i used house wire cause they didnt have any wire big enough at autozone.
-Its actually not so "ha that's easy" who ever posted the above comment has obviously never changed an alternator on a late eighties Accord, there are issues specific to these cars that make it difficult to remove the unit, you can A. remove the drive shaft as the manual indicates, or B. remove an engine mount and use a floor jack to raise the engine a bit and remove the alternator via drivers side wheel well.
1-3-4-2 in a clockwise rotation starting with the top right. from left to righ spark plug "inlets" are 4-3-2-1. so the top right on the distributor (#1) goes on the far right. my firing order is stamped on the side of the distributor and its order is 4-2-3-1 from top to bottom and 4-3-2-1 from left to right for plugs
The only sucessful way I have experienced is replacement.
There is another way. I detail headlights at used car dealers, what I do is drill a small hole on the lower edge of the light and let the moisture out. Using the lights will eventually evaporate the water. To clean the outside of the lens I product I sell called The CrystaLenz Headlight Restoration Kit.
Google EVAP or Emission systens for your car. PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Not that that means much to many. They are ALWAYS AT THE highest point of the actual ENGINE, in all engines with PCV. Not the actual highest point if you lift your hood, The MAJOR engine. Be it Push mowers, riding mowers Hondas, Chrysler's, Fords Toyota's Isusu's Chevy whatever, if it burns gas it has one. It's above the spark plug(s). It connects from a valve or cam cover. It's almost always a 90 degree bent plastic elbow that is connected to a rubber hose about the size of your finger. U shouldent need a tool yo remove it. It has a ball in it that u may be able to hear if u shake it . It will typically connect after the air filter and before the intake On MOST cars/trucks. It is above the spark plug(s). IF your spark plug wires come out the top of the engine it should be right in that area. It connects the inside (internals) of the engine (The Plastic Elbow) & hose to the intake of engine, AIR CLEANER intake area. Its job it to suck unburnt air & unburnt oil & gas vapors from the engine back into the engine to be reburnt instead of dropping on the road where it went before 1972.
you will need 3 sizes of wrenches to complete this repair: 10mm 12mm 14mm
first unhook the negative battery terminal (10mm)
then loosen the bolts on the tensioner bracket (10mm front 12mm rear)
loosen the main bolt (14mm) and the p.s. pump or alternator should roll downward along the bracket giving you slack on the respective belt.
check and replace the belts if necissary. (If you are only changing a belt stop here and work backwards to tighten the belt!!!)
take the 12mm bolt off of the stud that the 10mm bolt threads into
then the fourteen
the p.s. pump or alternator should be free
installation is the reverse of removal. Take your time to make sure you do it right.
This what I did when my alternator failed on New Years Day 2011.
I'd previously read at least three different ways to change out the alternator. The one I went with was to remove it through the top, kinda like a ceasarian!
This meant disconnecting the battery ground (earth) lead, disconnecting any clips or brackets holding wiring blocks etc, to the body. Taking the driver's front wheel off and making sure the car was solid on a jack stand; this allows easy access to the alternator lower pivot/securing bolt, which has to be removed.
Once there is a relatively clear access to the top of the alternator, remove the adjustment bolt and the bolt holding the thick adjustment bracket to the block. The drive belt should just fall away now everything is loose.
Rotate the still wired up alternator so you can see and get at the big output lead securing nut. Pull back the rubber cover and use a ring wrench to remove
the nut. Use a small wrench (5mm?) to remove the tiny machine screw that holds the wiring to the end of the alternator. Remove the two brake master cylinder flange nuts that hold it to the brake booster/servo. Ease the still pipe connected unit off the studs and towards the airfilter area. Bungees can be used to hold things away from the access area. This should allow the alternator the clearance needed to be fiddled past the inlet manifold etc.
Mine came out after a minute of wrangling; refitting a reconditioned unit back into place, was equally straightforward.
I give all credit to this way of doing the job, to the guy that suggested it on Wiki s - thank you mate!
I recomend buying a bottle of right stuff permatex gasket maker. I ran into problems with all other gasket potions (not to mention a broken bolt) and i used this as a last resort and it has been leak free for over a year. just make sure you put a luiberal amount on the valve cover and use the silicone bushings on the bolts. works like magic and prevents underhood fires. like i said i even busted one of them bolts and when i used that STUFF it was miraculous for a result. one more thing be sure to leave the car parked for about 24 hours before driving it after using the stuff.
ive been trying for the last 8 hours im gonna heat it up and drill it out tried everything else
go to you tube and see Erick the car guy ...he shows how to do this.
Hey Josh==It sounds like you have a bearing going out of a water pump or alternator. The best way is to get a stethescope for about$20. it makes short work of finding noises. Or you can get a 3 foot length of hose and listen at one end while moving the other around to different spots to find the noise. If you can take a belt off of the alternator and still have the water pump turn, that may do it. Goodluck Joe
It's also possible that the noise you are hearing is just the valve-train. Does the noise go away or get quieter once the engine is warmed up? Does the speed of the ticking increase with engine RPM?
If it a big concern, a qualified mechanic will be able to tell you if it's the valves or not just by listening.
beast way to describe it, put your front end on jack stands, crawl under on the driver side, look up and to the right. it is located behind the right wheel inside the engin compartment. You'll need to work from underneath mostly. but may fin you need to jockey it into position from the top.
It is a sign that your transmission is about to go out, unless you have all the tools i would suggest shop time.
press scan + clock and adjust the minutes/hours
Use the radio preset station buttons, look under the last few numbers, you'll see a small black H for hours, a small black M for Minutes. The clock button is up above or right next to them depending on the model.
Hey Candace==Remove the negative battery cable. Then remove the wires from the starter then the mounting bolts and work it out. GoodluckJoe
Never heard of a Handa Accord. A 1992 Honda Accord is Front Wheel Drive. Honda does not make a 4wd Accord.
No, inside a pcv valve is a spring that might loose it's correct rating, also there are seals that can be ruined, not worth bothering, just replace it
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