Honda Accord DX

To check the automatic transmission fluid on a 1994 Suzuki Sidekick, first ensure the vehicle is on a level surface and the engine is running. Locate the transmission dipstick, usually found near the back of the engine. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, and then remove it again to check the fluid level; it should be within the marked range. If necessary, add the appropriate type of transmission fluid through the dipstick tube.

A 1992 Honda Accord may not shift to overdrive due to several potential issues, including low transmission fluid levels, a faulty overdrive switch, or a malfunctioning transmission control module. Additionally, problems with the throttle position sensor or issues within the transmission itself, such as worn clutches or bands, can prevent the vehicle from engaging overdrive. Regular maintenance and diagnostic checks can help identify and resolve these issues.

The water pump on a 1991 Honda Accord is located on the front of the engine, near the timing belt. To access it, you'll typically need to remove the timing belt cover and possibly the timing belt itself. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so ensure the engine is cool and properly supported before attempting any repairs. Always consult a repair manual for detailed instructions specific to your model.

Yes, a 1993 Honda Accord DX engine can fit into a 1993 Honda Accord EX without major modifications, as both models share the same chassis and engine mounting points. However, there may be differences in components such as the intake system, exhaust, and wiring harness, so it’s advisable to check compatibility and ensure all necessary parts are accounted for during the swap.

If your wipers activate when you input a left signal, it could indicate a short circuit or faulty relay in the vehicle's electrical system. Start by checking the wiring and connections for any signs of damage or corrosion. Inspect the turn signal and wiper switch for malfunction, and consider replacing them if necessary. If the issue persists, consulting a professional mechanic may be the best option for a thorough diagnosis.

For the Honda DOHC ZC 1.6 engine, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications typically are 22 ft-lbs (30 Nm) for the initial pass, followed by 49 ft-lbs (66 Nm) for the final pass. The tightening order generally starts from the center bolts and moves outward in a crisscross pattern to ensure even pressure. Always refer to the specific service manual for your vehicle for precise specifications and procedures.

Well, honey, the 1988 Honda Accord DX had a fuel efficiency of around 24 mpg in the city and 31 mpg on the highway. As for horsepower, that bad boy packed a punch with a whopping 98 horsepower. So, if you're looking to race a turtle, this might not be the car for you.

3,6,9,12,15,18,21,24,27,30,33,36,39,42,45,48,51,54,57,60,63,66,69,72,75,78,81,84 ,87,90,93,96 and 99

You may be able to find a free stereo wire diagram for a 1994 Mercury Topaz by searching online on websites such as ModifiedLife or Car Stereo Wiring. You can also try contacting your local library for access to automotive repair manuals that may include wiring diagrams.

Photos might be available online through forums, websites, or repair guides that detail the steps for installing a water pump on a 1993 Mercury Topaz. You can search for "1993 Mercury Topaz water pump installation guide" or "1993 Mercury Topaz water pump replacement" to find detailed instructions and possibly photos to help with the process.

The issue could be due to a variety of factors such as a weak battery, a faulty fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or issues with the ignition system. The engine may not necessarily be shot, but it should be inspected by a mechanic to diagnose and repair the specific problem.

GOT IT FIXED TODAY. WOUND UP THE IGNITION SWITCH WAS BAD. NOT THE KEY AND CYLINDER COMMONLY REFERED TO AS THE IGNITION SWITCH BUT THE SWITCH DOWN ON THE COLUMN UNDER THE DASH THAT THE TURNING OF THE KEY PUSHES WITH A ROD. I ASKED 2 MECHANICS, 4 PARTS STORES AND THE SERVICE DEPT AT THE LOCAL CHEVY DEALER AND THE ALL TOLD ME THE KEY AND CYLINDER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. $179.00 LATER MY CAR STILL DID EXACTLY WHAT IT DID TO BEGIN WITH. SO I PUT ON A $21.39 SWITCH THAT WAS MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE STEERING COLUMN UNDER THE DASH AND WAS SO HARD TO GET TO THE THE WHOLE COLUMN HAD TO COME OUT TO REPLACE IT. HOPE THIS MAY HELP SOMEONE IN THE FUTURE BUT I HOPE YOU NEVER HAVE TO DO IT. IT IS A PAIN.

Start by moving the power steering reservoir out of the way. Disconnect the battery and then remove the wires from the alternator. Take the tension out of the tensioning pulley and remove the belt from the alternator. Remove the bolts from alternator, you may have to take the top mounting bracket off of the engine. The hardest part I found was to get the alternator out after everything was unbolted. My brother-in-law the mechanic came over and advised me to put a floor jack under the motor (use a block of wood to protect the oil pan etc.). Remove the bolt in the engine mount and raise the engine with the floor jack until there is space to bring the alternator out of its hiding place. Bring it straight out from the front of the engine (front being the passenger side of the car. It might be easier to raise the engine and then take out the alternator, but I didn't have the opportunity to try that. But it's definitely easier to put the replacement in with the engine still raised. I spent all day trying to figure it out, after my brother-in-law helped me with the engine jacking, it took about 20 minutes to complete the job.

I've got the V6 and I didn't need to lift the engine, just remove the radiator fan directly in front of the alternator. The fan has 2 screw bolts(10mm) on top, 1 on bottom(which I could just manage to access from the top with a deep socket), unplug the wires and you can lift it out of the way. This gives you enough clearance to remove the alternator (be careful not to ding your radiator though). Also, I didn't relized that the tensioner pulley was a spring-loaded type...I've never seen one till now. Just put a wrench on the middle of the pulley and you can adjust it to move the alternater back in place. Another tip, since you're replacing the alternator, might as well replace the belt too. Good luck. 2hours - not hard, just hard to get to till you figure out what items you need to move out of the way.

If this is the LX or EX (4 cylinder)

1) Disconnect the battery cable (*).

2) Remove the green connector on the back of the alternator and the single wire (to help ensure you don't loose the nut, screw it back on the terminal).

3) Loosen the power steering pump - slip the belt off and then push the pump up out of the way. You do not need to remove the pump.

4) Remove the lower alternator bolt.

5) Loosen the upper alternator bolt.

6) Remove the tension bolt.

7) Slip the belt off the alternator pulley.

8) Remove the upper alternator bolt.

9) Grab hold of the alternator pull it out. You may need to move it up and down and wiggle it slightly to get it out.

Installation is in the reverse order. Be sure to set the proper belt tension on the alternator and power steering pump. Check the belt tension the next time you fill up for gas and adjust if needed.

Total time to R&R the alternator should be under an hour.

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Looking at the alternator with the pulley facing you, the right mounting hole (where the large upper alternator bolt slips into) is a bushing. Carefully take some channel lock pliers and push it in so it's flush. This will help make installing it easier. As you tighten the upper and lower bolts, it will slide this bushing into proper position.

(*) = If your radio has a security code, be sure you know what it is before you pull the battery cables! If you have access to a battery charger, it may not be a bad time to re-charge the battery while you are R&R'ing the alternator. I would suggest that if you do elect to recharge the battery to take the battery out of the car.

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Email me if you have questions; rob@crxownersclub.com

18436572 is the order. potentially the harmonic balancer should have a carved notch which lines up with the timing mark on the block somehow

The degrees should be on a label under the hood.

There are many good quality tire manufacturers. More importantly, though, you should always stick with the tires specified by the vehicle's manufacturer. You can find the information on tire size and type on a decal on either the driver's or the passenger's door jamb.

Stunning

beauteous

pulchritudinous

Show how to change water pump on 1993 Mercury Cougar

First of all this is a royal pain.

You cannot remove the fan shroud without removing the fan clutch, so, remove the fan clutch and fan shroud. You will have to remove the four bolts holding the fan clutch while reaching under the shroud. If you have lost the sticker that shows how to run the serpentine belt, now would be a good time to draw yourself a diagram, or take a picture. Now you will see that there is a bracket that goes from the front of the power steering pump to the right side of the water pump, there is no way around this that I could find, go buy or borrow a pulley pulling kit (If there is an autozone near you, they will loan you one if you leave a deposit equal to the price, in my case $35 bucks, when you take it back unharmed, you get all your money back including tax)

Pull the steering wheel pump pulley, and it will reveal 2 bolts holding the bracket. Now remove the serpentine belt and unbolt the water pump. It has about 8 bolts, and thanks to the Ford engineering geniuses, they are almost all different sizes, ranging from 13mm to 19mm, you will need deep sockets because a couple of these are nuts on studs. Remove the power steering bracket, then the hoses (one on the bottom, two on the top) and then the water pump. scrape clean the engine side of all the old bits of gasket. put a light film of form a gasket, or some such silicone stuff to hold the new gasket onto the new pump (pump side only, the gasket by itself should seal on the engine side, don't over do it). put the new pump on and replace the bolts (alternate so that you tighten them evenly. Put back everything you took off. Now would be a good time to replace hoses and the belt if they are at all worn. Now curse the ford engineers one last time, and you are done.

It is obvious you have a gas leak. Use your nose to locate the general area of the leak. Once you narrow it down then you just have to search and find what is leaking.

Based on symptom: switch or motpr

Based on Nissan: switch

Replace Nissan window switches frequently lest you be caught open in the rain.

Tu est tres belle

The other end of the cable is at the top of the transaxle under the hood. You can manually move it, but keep in mind that the car may start to go and hit something. Apply the parking brake AND have someone firmly depress the brake pedal if you're going to attempt this.