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I haven't seen you, dumb-dumb, so how do I know?

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3,6,9,12,15,18,21,24,27,30,33,36,39,42,45,48,51,54,57,60,63,66,69,72,75,78,81,84 ,87,90,93,96 and 99

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Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Green

Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Red

Car Radio Ground Wire: Black

Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black

Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red

Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A

Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A

Front Speakers Size: N/A

Front Speakers Location: N/A

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Black

Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green

Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow

Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Red

Rear Speakers Size: N/A

Rear Speakers Location: N/A

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White

Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black

Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink

Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow

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Here is a link to an autoMedia.com's autoCare article which should be helpful. http://www.automedia.com/autoCare/ccr20041201th/ccr20041201th.asp?affid=

This is a very easy repair. Most anyone can do it.

As always, unhook the negative cable from your battery.

Then drain some of the coolant from your radiator. Tighten the draincock after you do. Turn that coolant in for recycling.

Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. The thing it's hooked to is the housing for the thermostat. It's in three pieces; the thermostat is in the outermost one. Remove this piece. Look at how the thermostat is oriented in the housing, because it goes back the same way as it came out, and then remove the thermostat.

When you buy your thermostat, always get a new gasket. You put the gasket on the thermostat, put the thermostat in the housing, and put the housing back on the engine. Torque it to 7 lb-ft and you're almost done.

Next, use a 12mm deep well socket to loosen the bleeder bolt. This is on top of the thermostat housing, between the coolant temperature sender (for the gauge) and the thermowax sensor (for the fuel injection system). It looks like a silver bolt with a nipple sticking up out the middle of it, and it's the only thing on there that doesn't have wires coming out of it. Anyway, loosen this up about a half-turn or so. Open the radiator cap and start pouring either "all makes all models" antifreeze, or "Honda Genuine" antifreeze, into the radiator until some comes out of the bleeder bolt. Close the bleeder bolt, put the radiator cap back on, hook the battery back up, and you're done.

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Hey Shawn==It is 1-3-4-2 Joe

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If you have an automatic transmission, I would recommend installing a transmission fluid cooler (like a radiator for your transmission, about $25) to keep the temperature down from stop-and-go driving. I would also check the brakes and replace them, they are very cheap for a new set. Have your transmission flushed by a pro shop, about $100 for that service, change the engine oil religiously with synthetic high-mileage oil every 2500-3000 miles. There's nothing else that special you need to know, the 86-89 Honda Accords are still among the most reliable and durable cars on the road. I have three of them ranging from 1986-1988 anywhere from 90,000 miles to 269,000 miles, and they all run perfectly with standard vehicle preventive maintenance. I just really wanted to emphasize the oil changes. Personally, I'd skip the synthetic oil. For frequent trips, (Less than 5 miles) I'd recommend changing the oil every 1500 miles (2500km) with some brand name regular non-synthetic oil. (Castrol, Shell, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc...) I would also keep a very close eye on the PCV system. With short trips where the oil cannot come up to operating temperature, moisture builds up in the oil. An early warning sign of excess moisture is buildup of a tan/yellow/pale looking sludge on the inside of your oil cap. This is because the cap is usually the coldest part, and moisture will condense on it. This sludge will also gum up your PCV valve. Another option, if you make several short trips, along with a long, non-stop (50 miles or more on the highway) trip every week, you could probably get away fine with the 3000miles interval, as the long trips will give the water in the oil a chance to evaporate. (Granted the PCV system is working properly)

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couple of possible solutions:

1. replace the clutch 2. compression test your cylinders. if poor compression at 172k. sorry. 3. run some fuelsystem cleaner. 4. replace your spark plugs, and wires. if your spark is not strong enough the fuel will not burn fully causing power loss. also replace distributor cap and rotor of applicable. 5. run some premium grade gassoline for 5 or 6 tanks. especially if you have used regular the whole time. if you have you will have some nasty deposits on your valves and build up in your fuel delivery system. premium fuel burns hotter and slower, this will allow it to burn off deposits. the slower burn gives you better gas mileage as well. 6. make sure you have a clean air filter. if your engine cannot breath it gets backed up and robbs power. 7. if nescessary, replace your catalytic converter. this is for the same reason as 6. only at the opposite end. cats can get restricted and or clogged.

I would start with a tune up... Spark Plugs, Wires, And an Air filter. If that doesn"t work start with the easiest to replace and cheapest until you get to what the real problem is

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4 quarts with a filiter change.

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If by "disconnected" you mean unbolted, and if by "fix" you mean re-bolting, then it's not hard. It should consist of an endlink, which is typically just a bolt that connects the end of the sway bar to the lower control arm. Endlink bushings should sit on either side of the sway bar and on either side of the lower control arm. If you look at the way the sway bar is connected on the driver's side, it should be easy to figure out.

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Yes it will fit.

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i have a cold air intake on my car (universal for a 92-00 civic cut to size) so the airbox is out, but all you do is is losen the bottom bolt to allow the alternator to pivit, then you losen the tensioner bolt to remove the belt and the alternator. unplug the clip and undo the bolt that holds the power wire and your set. if you cant get the alternator back in the bottom bracket when installing...jack up the on the right side, remove the tire if it makes it easier, align the bolt hole the best you can (use a small screwdriver to half align it it you need to) then put the bolt in and use a hammer to send it through. connect the wires, belt, and tensioner and wha-la. your done. course i did this in my driveway so a shop makes it eaiser. ive already had it out like 5 times already and check the power wire incase it breaks or if your battery light is on. mine broke up by the battery and i think that its 8 guage wire if not 6 but i used house wire cause they didnt have any wire big enough at autozone.

-Its actually not so "ha that's easy" who ever posted the above comment has obviously never changed an alternator on a late eighties Accord, there are issues specific to these cars that make it difficult to remove the unit, you can A. remove the drive shaft as the manual indicates, or B. remove an engine mount and use a floor jack to raise the engine a bit and remove the alternator via drivers side wheel well.

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1-3-4-2 in a clockwise rotation starting with the top right. from left to righ spark plug "inlets" are 4-3-2-1. so the top right on the distributor (#1) goes on the far right. my firing order is stamped on the side of the distributor and its order is 4-2-3-1 from top to bottom and 4-3-2-1 from left to right for plugs

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The only sucessful way I have experienced is replacement.

There is another way. I detail headlights at used car dealers, what I do is drill a small hole on the lower edge of the light and let the moisture out. Using the lights will eventually evaporate the water. To clean the outside of the lens I product I sell called The CrystaLenz Headlight Restoration Kit.

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Google EVAP or Emission systens for your car. PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Not that that means much to many. They are ALWAYS AT THE highest point of the actual ENGINE, in all engines with PCV. Not the actual highest point if you lift your hood, The MAJOR engine. Be it Push mowers, riding mowers Hondas, Chrysler's, Fords Toyota's Isusu's Chevy whatever, if it burns gas it has one. It's above the spark plug(s). It connects from a valve or cam cover. It's almost always a 90 degree bent plastic elbow that is connected to a rubber hose about the size of your finger. U shouldent need a tool yo remove it. It has a ball in it that u may be able to hear if u shake it . It will typically connect after the air filter and before the intake On MOST cars/trucks. It is above the spark plug(s). IF your spark plug wires come out the top of the engine it should be right in that area. It connects the inside (internals) of the engine (The Plastic Elbow) & hose to the intake of engine, AIR CLEANER intake area. Its job it to suck unburnt air & unburnt oil & gas vapors from the engine back into the engine to be reburnt instead of dropping on the road where it went before 1972.

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I recomend buying a bottle of right stuff permatex gasket maker. I ran into problems with all other gasket potions (not to mention a broken bolt) and i used this as a last resort and it has been leak free for over a year. just make sure you put a luiberal amount on the valve cover and use the silicone bushings on the bolts. works like magic and prevents underhood fires. like i said i even busted one of them bolts and when i used that STUFF it was miraculous for a result. one more thing be sure to leave the car parked for about 24 hours before driving it after using the stuff.

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ive been trying for the last 8 hours im gonna heat it up and drill it out tried everything else

go to you tube and see Erick the car guy ...he shows how to do this.

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Hey Josh==It sounds like you have a bearing going out of a water pump or alternator. The best way is to get a stethescope for about$20. it makes short work of finding noises. Or you can get a 3 foot length of hose and listen at one end while moving the other around to different spots to find the noise. If you can take a belt off of the alternator and still have the water pump turn, that may do it. Goodluck Joe

It's also possible that the noise you are hearing is just the valve-train. Does the noise go away or get quieter once the engine is warmed up? Does the speed of the ticking increase with engine RPM?

If it a big concern, a qualified mechanic will be able to tell you if it's the valves or not just by listening.

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beast way to describe it, put your front end on jack stands, crawl under on the driver side, look up and to the right. it is located behind the right wheel inside the engin compartment. You'll need to work from underneath mostly. but may fin you need to jockey it into position from the top.

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It is a sign that your transmission is about to go out, unless you have all the tools i would suggest shop time.

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press scan + clock and adjust the minutes/hours

Use the radio preset station buttons, look under the last few numbers, you'll see a small black H for hours, a small black M for Minutes. The clock button is up above or right next to them depending on the model.

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Hey Candace==Remove the negative battery cable. Then remove the wires from the starter then the mounting bolts and work it out. GoodluckJoe

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Never heard of a Handa Accord. A 1992 Honda Accord is Front Wheel Drive. Honda does not make a 4wd Accord.

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No, inside a pcv valve is a spring that might loose it's correct rating, also there are seals that can be ruined, not worth bothering, just replace it