It is so easy. Just follow this procedure
Turn the ignition to the ON position -Press the selector button so that the warning is showing -Press and Hold the selector for 10 seconds, the display will flash. Once flashing let go of the button -Press and hold the selector button for 5 seconds, the display will reset.
I just tried the same procedure on my 2007 Honda Accord and it worked.
the factory size is 16 inch rims on the 2000 model
It should have struts not shocks. For struts you need to take the entire strut assembly out, use a spring compressor to take the tension off of the strut, remove the nut on top of the strut, take the top plate off and the spring and put them on the new strut. Tighten the nut and reinstall in the car. There is a lot of tension in the spring when it is compressed and a mistake can cost you a finger, hand or your life. Unless you have some mechanical experience, better off taking it some where.
It does have shocks on the rear. One bolt at the top and one bolt at the bottom. Very simple to replace. The front has struts. I just changed a set on a 1999 Tacoma and what I bought was the entire assembly including the strut, spring, and mount, all in one self contained package. All you do it unbolt the old assembly and install the new one. No spring compressing, no danger of the spring popping out or the tool breaking and the spring flying out and taking your head off. I bought the Strutmasters assembly and it cost just slightly more than a strut only. You not only get a new strut but a new spring also. Click the link to see it.
More than likely 17 mm.
Ideally, dowry is offered to newly wed couple to establish a third home.
P.S, - Insidiously and surruptiously, the practice of dowry is to unearth the amassed wealth of the bride's family; a substantial neat amount out of the dowry transaction is taken away as donation (dan-dakshana) by the Hindu clergymen all for nothing.
Yes! Seats 8 , though the last row is somewhat more cramped than most minivans.
Using the odometer post (little thingee sticking out of the speedometer) push the post until the oil life is displayed. Then push and hold the post for about 10 seconds. This should reset the oil life to 100%
Go to www.odyclub.com and search the forum for this subject. There are several good threads that descibe in detail, with pictures, how to replace the light including Radio Shack replacemnt part number as well as led replacement possiblity.
It means there is scheduled maintenance required based on your mileage. Can be just an oil change or can be something else like you need to replace the cam belt. Open your owner's manual and it will tell you exactly what is needed.
ok, SRS light on, your mechanic is an wrong. If you have any electronic devices in or around your passenger seat, this will set the srs light. should be able to clear codes by re-flashing srs unit or re-initialize the system. if your vehicle has not been in an accident, it is almost certain there is nothing wrong with the srs unit itself. im not saying it couldn't happen, just very unlikely.
My mechanic has pulled the codes and it indicated a new SRS computer is required. Since it was $400 he tried something. He hooked the PGM hand-held computer to the car and re-booted the SRS computer. It worked for 6 months and then it came back on. Another reboot and 2 weeks later it's on again. I don't want to part with the $400+ but I trust he's on the money when he says it needs to be replaced. I am going to look into one more thing with the seat sensor first. I have 157,000 on my 96 Odyssey.
I admire the simplistic logic of the "pulling out the bulb" solution. However, it should be noted that until you reset the code, your airbag will NOT deploy. So, bite the bullet and pay for the code to be reset, or find out how to do it yourself from some motorhead website. It involves jumping out some pins under your dash.
While I am a avid DIYer, Airbag systems are best left to the Pros. That being said, there is a lithium battery inside the airbag computer. For $400, I would look for faulty/cracked solder connections inside the airbag computer and test the little $4 battery. On the Accord there are three impact sensors, one in each floorboard and one in the computer itself (bags wont fire unless two out of three have been tripped). Get the factory service manual (www.helminc.com)and observe ALL safety precautions regarding putting safety jumpers on airbag connectors,etc. Airbag inflators contain rocket fuel and the passenger bag will probably break the windscreen when it fires....
Since the SRS control unit is a computer, it may be sensitive to things like a faulty alternator/voltage regulator, high power radio transmitters, alien spacecraft, etc.
the absolutely first question to ask is if anybody has done any electrical work on the car (aftermarket stereo, alarm, etc). Also, has the car gotten wet inside (flood).
When that light is on, the airbags may NOT deploy in a crash. FIX IT!!! Pulling the bulb out means now the light is not on but the AIRBAGS MAY NOT DEPLOY!
I have the same issue and still haven't found a solution. I'm trying to avoid sending to the dealer for him to tell me I'll have to replace it.
This would cause serious engine damage, as the engine speed ( rpm) would be too high, and the engine would overheat badly. The engine parts would be seriously overheated and the engine bearings and seals would probably begin to leak oil from over pressure.
-it would probably burn out your rear seal and blow oil everywhere but other then that it shouldn't be to bad, maybe
Actually, the worst that happened is you used too much fuel. Engine overheating doesn't occur in any particular gear unless there's a problem to begin with. High RPM's for short periods aren't harmful. After all, you increase your engine speed when your car goes into passing gear, there's no harm done to your auto.
It could also overheat your transmission if it is an automatic trans. NOT good. If it is a 3-speed automatic, being in 2nd gear would not be as bad as if it were a 4-speed automatic though. Because then the RPM's would be higher than on a 3-speed, creating even MORE heat.
The PDF, however, seems to be a little off for my 2001 EX. I could not remove the metal restraining bar for the glove compartment because one of the left screws was behind the dashboard. The work-around is to remove the plastic cover near the passenger side kick plate, remove the three visible screws (two on right, one of the ones on the left) on the metal restraining bar and then rotate the bar down to expose the filter cover. You can then remove and replace the old filter.
An additional note, the glove compartment makes it difficult to pull the filter out directly. I did manage to bend the original Honda filter slightly. The new FRAM filter I purchased, however, was a smidge bigger and not as flexible. I ended up breaking the back brace to slide the new filter in. Also, make a note of the air flow. It should be from right to left.
Between the first and second rows there is a carpet flap that lifts. You will then see a crank that cranks down the spare tire. the spare tire is actually outside of the Odysseys interior, but the crank is inside.
OK so I started to simply make some suggestions and it turned out to be close to an actual so I'm putting it here as well for Gino.
Honda front brake pads are easy to replace compared to many other types. If you have less than 50,000 miles on the car you should not be worrying about the front pads. Since you are we'll presume you drive a lot like I used to and the concern is valid. Don't let dealers try to get you to worry about such things so they can make a killing on a repair.
1) If you don't know where to start I would suggest going to your local auto parts supply (not the dealer!) such as Kragen, Shucks, Murray, Checker, or Advanced Auto Parts Stores. These are all owned by "Parts America" and the names are related to the area you live in. See their web site at www.partsamerica.com for the nearest location to you.
2) Get a Chilton's auto repair manual for your vehicle, they are available for free at some public libraries (here in Seattle at least), even accessible online with your library account. It will provide you with the details on how to change your brake pads. It will also tell you how to inspect them (after you jack the car up take the wheel off)to see if they are in need of replacement.
3) If you decide to do this on your own, you will need some simple tools. First suggestion I tell my friends is before you start to do anything to remove the caliper is to turn the wheel a few times. When the car is stopped the front brakes tend to stay close to the wheel. If you don't know the air that is generated when the car is moving creates an air cushion that keeps the brake pads away from the rotor. By turning the wheel first you will loosen this enough to make it easier to do the job.
4) Second thing before you remove the caliper is to examine the disks. You will be able to see about 3/4 of the disk at a time because the caliper blocks your view. Because you turned the wheel before removing it you should be able to turn the disk grabbing the lug bolts that the wheel attached to. Please DO NOT touch the rotor with your hands. These need to be clean at all times. What you are looking for is to see if the rotors are worn and need replacing. Starting at the part closest to the hub follow the profile of the rotor surface to the outer most part. The surface should be smooth, have no discoloration, and with a 2003 vehicle there should be almost NO ridge at the outer edge (1/4 inch). I have a 2002 CR-V and there is no ridge on my rotors. My wifes '97 Accord has 84,000 miles on it and just a bit of a ridge; This is acceptable wear. (bye the way I didn't have to replace her brake pads until the car hit 70,000 miles.) If you see any significant ripples on the surfaces then you have spent too much time with your foot on the brake. If you have anything other than smooth rotors you should consider having someone qualified (with experience that is) work on it. Find a friend because "Turning the Rotors" requires knowledge and a machine shop is not a fun job nor anything to be taken lightly.
5) Gather the tools (Wrenches will be METRIC) and follow the instructions in the book to remove the rotors. Remember they are fairly heavy as they are made of cast iron for durability. They will remain attached to the car via the brake hose. DO NOT attempt to remove them, this would make a big mess and add to the cost. I do recommend you have a box like a milk carton crate and a couple of smaller items available to stack up as necessary to rest the caliper upon.
6) A large "C-Clamp" is always useful to push the "Puck" pack into the caliper. This must be done so that the thicker pads can fit between the caliper and the rotor. The C-Clamp will have to have an opening of at least 6 inches to be useful. Be careful not to place the c-clamp at an angle or you can jam the puck. I like to use a piece of 1/4 inch plywood across the entire puck surface and that way pressure is placed evenly around the puck as you gently tighten the clamp thus pressing the puck back into the caliper.
6) Make sure you DO NOT touch the face of the new pads with dirty hands or they will have a tendency to squeak. The dirt and/or oil from your hands should be removed prior to installing the pads into the caliper.
Chilton's books will provide you with a list of tools usually required to do the job and the specifications for your car. The pads should run between $40 and $75 depending upon where you live. The book will become your best friend if you intend to do maintenance of this type in the future so look at it as an investment in long term savings.
BLG in Washington State
Bad or misadjusted stop light switch
Its Located Behind The Driver and Passenger Seats Under the Carpet
I agree with the checks below but to get to the motor in the Odyssey van requires a special tool to remove inner panel in the rear of the van. The tool I found is listed in the service manual which is available on feeBay or on line from Helm Inc.). The tool is listed as a Snap-On #A-177A or some variant of the tool. I paid $35 (in spring of 2010) to have it shipped in. You will also need a small floor jack and rags, towels or something to protect the door while it's held up by the jack. I used an old sweatshirt. Sat the jack parallel to the van so
if needed I could slide it back and forth (found I could just leave it in place so a bottle type
jack could also be used.)
Be sure to buy a genuine Honda service manual available on feeBay or from Helm, Inc on the internet. They are worth their price. I bought the electrical manual for it to.
There are three points where you must slide the tool down behind the panel. The pop type fittings are nylon and are spaced along the rear windows. Don't try to use it along the front edge of the panel as it will snap the melt on type plastic cover (it's done during part's manufacture). Be sure to slide the tool down from the top edge nearest the window. Move slowly and carefully. There are only three of the connectors. The rear speaker and it's mounting screws along with a screw that holds the inner panel in place is behind the speaker.
Once these are removed the panel can be carefully pried from the bottom edge. I started
near the tail gate and worked it forward. (I did the right side on mine)
Behind the panel there is a nylon piece that is the drum for the cable that opens and closes the door by winding the cable one way or the other. There is a handle sort of peice that must be pulled out to release the drum so you can rotate it manually to loosen the cable to provide enough slack in the cable to remove it from the sliding bracket (on the outside of the van behind a cover plate over the center channel) which has the rollers (2 nylon and one metal [nylon ones always break]). The outside bracket is held on by one bolt in the door frame (you have to manually slide the door open to see the bolt). The rear light must be
removed to get at the two phillip screws on the back edge of the cover plate. The rear light
has two tabs that must be flipped up to expose bolts that hold the light on. The tailgate must be raised to see the tabs in the channel of the tailgate. A thin screwdriver fits into tiny slots in the black plastic of the light. Once the two bolts are removed the light must be "popped" rearward. Use electrical tape on a flat blade of a screwdriver to help slide the light out of the mount. There is a nylon pin that sits in a rubber grommet on the front leading edge of the light that holds the light in place (it can be tough the first time it's removed [when reassembling the tailight I used silicone spray on the nylon pin to help it come out easier the next time]. There are wires leading to the light that go through a rubber grommet. The grommet must be removed carefully to find the connector for the light's wires. I put fresh dielectric grease on the female side of the connector when I put it back together to keep it from corroding later.
You will need a small jack to hold the door level while working on the slider. I used an old sweat shirt to keep the door from getting scratched.
Check the fuse first. Then check for power at the motor when switches are operated, then check for power at the switches, then for power at the fuse. look closely at the wires at and near the motor and the switches and as far as you can follow them, look for obvious problems, loose connections, look for frays where the wires take a bend or go through a hole or are near anything moving. Your problem can have many possible causes such as a poor ground, loose connection, frayed wire, bad switch, blown fuse, faulty relay, blown motor, or possibly even a problem with the mechanical aspect that opens the door. Be careful when working on these parts as you could easily scratch the door or inner panel.
There are three large bolts that hold the bracket onto the sliding door. You can reach them
when the door is open. I was able to slide the bracket toward the rear of the van to work on it. Might want to place some protective tape (painter's wide tape) on the bottom side of the center channel to keep from scratching the paint. The cable has small drum like pieces inside the bracket the cable must be slack enough to slide the drums out of the bracket. They are a lot like the ones you see on bicycle brake handles or motorcycle clutch cables. There is a slot for the cable to be slid out of position. Don't kink the cable.
The bracket with rollers can be found on the net from Majestic Honda in RI, for about $70 (spring of 2010 price). I found the local dealer to charge $95 for the same part and I would have had to pre pay and drive to pick it up. These brackets are known to need replacement. Dealer wanted nearly $200 plus parts to change it out. I took about 2-3 hours to do the job. I'm not a fast mechanic but I did get the job done myself.
start by jacking up the car at the normal spot. take off the tire. then there are three screws that are very easy to get off. two on the side and one on the bottom of the brakes. after those 3 screws are off, the pad will fall out of the assembly. match direction and correct side for each pad, make sure to lube the pad if desired. after you place the new pads into the assembly, take a C-clamp to the caliper and push the caliper back into the assembly. place the caliper back over the pads and reconnect the assembly witht the three screws. replace the tire. make sure to pump the breaks a few times before driving.
By opening and reading your owner's manual for instructions on removal and replacement. Don't have an owner's manual then you need to get one. Here are sources. http://www.samarins.com/maintenance/manual.html You can also try E-Bay and a salvage yard. I have a 2003 Odyssey, and Cabin Air Filter replacement procedure is not discussed in the Owner's Manual. I know that it involves removing the glove box. Instruction to change Honday Odyssey cabin filter http://www.micronair.us/assets/pdfs/82.pdf Kan
ON the rear bottom/side of the oil pan(under the truck), don't confuse it with the transmission drain if auto.
2006 Honda Odyssey low beam headlight bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement headlight bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the headlight bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).
Take the glove box off.
if there is a plastic bar across the filter, length in your way, cut it off. it was used to install the dash from the assemby line. ( I use a cordless saw),
now you should have access to the filter box. follow the arrow in putting it in.
I just replaced mine tonight. You have to do it from underneath the vehicle. Take off the rivets to the two plastic covers, and then you will be able to see the tensioner for the belt. Use a 3/4 inch wrench on the tensioner (don't put it on the bolt that holds the tensioner on), and pull it toward the vehicle. The belt will loosen, and you can take it off. I took a few pictures if you would like them, let me know. Stephen
Asked By Cherry
What is 308 rounded to the nearest 10?
Asked By Wiki User
What is the difference between Population and sample?
Asked By Wiki User
What is pokediger1s password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you change a brake light on a 1995 Honda Odyssey?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you remove the radio from a 1995 Honda Odyssey?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you change the car battery of a Honda Odyssey?
Asked By Wiki User
What does incorrect gear ratio mean?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.