Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper

To remove:

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Remove the outboard return spring.

• Remove the adjusting screw spring.

• Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.

• Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.

• Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.

To install:

• Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.

• Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.

• Install the outboard return spring.

• Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.

• Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

ADJUSTMENT

• Measure the inside of the drum portion of the rear brake rotor

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.

• Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size

• Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.

• Install the rear disc brake rotor.

Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening.

Refill the brake master cylinder

Thats a very difficult task so I would advise you to let a certified technician do the job because it is kind of complicated and can cause damage if not fitted correctly.

I was impressed by my Chevy 3500, a S-10 nailed the side of it, pushed it into a 1970 GMC truck, it felt like someone bumped me sitting in the seat. All three vehicles totaled, the S-10 looked like someone should have died in it. I was not even shaken up. Depends on the type of accident. It depends on who you ask. If you want safety you should pay extra for the optional side impact and curtain airbags on a new truck.

Answer: Safest almost always equals the heaviest. So, a fully loaded dump truck would be a very safe truck (only for you, of course). Of course, people don't drive around dump trucks for fun. Any full-size pickup or full size SUV would be, in theory, your best bet for safety in a collision. Heavier vehicles are not necessarily safer as it has been shown with full size SUV's that have had a very high incidence of roll-0vers due to a higher centre of gravity. Get one with a low center of gravity and heavy built

You need to get a manual on your car to do the job right.

However, here is some advice:

• Just completed replacing heater core on 97 f-150 2wd unless you got a full day open do not attempt this.strongly recommend leaving this to the professionals.involves removal of entire dash and about 150 screws.any store bought manual does not do this task any justice.

• I just replaced my heater core on my 1998 F-150 2wd, and it took my dad and I 12 1/2 hours to do the job. Prepare yourself for a lot of time because it involves the removal of the complete dash assembly. I don't know what the Ford engineers were thinking when they designed that truck.

Just had mine replaced. Ford tech told me you only remove about 15 bolts and screws total then loosen the steering column and let it hang down. Then the entire dash is simply moved back out of the way to expose the heater box. He had mine down in 3 hours. There is no manual to tell you how to do this job unless you get one from a ford technician. The Haynes manuals are a joke, don't waste your money buying one. The ford tech said he would show me which bolts to remove. I post that later. Labor cost for this was $700. Heater core was only $75. Antifreeze about another $20. You can do it if you take your time and don't get in a hurry.

Disconnect the positive post of the battery cable. Underneath the passenger side of the truck you will find the starter. It is bolted to the bell housing of the transmission. It will take a 13mm socket and extension. After removing the two bolts you will be able to pull the starter out of the housing area and disconnect the wires on the solenoid.

Starter Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove the starter terminal cover.

4. Remove the terminal nut and separate the battery starter cable from the starter motor.

5. Disconnect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid.

Ø To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid (S) terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and (S) terminal.

6. Remove the starter motor retaining bolts.

7. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.

To Install:

8. Place the starter motor in position and install the starter motor retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).

9. Install the battery starter cable and a terminal nut to the starter motor. Tighten the terminal nuts to 79 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

10. Connect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid.

11. Install the starter solenoid safety cap. If equipped.

12. Lower the vehicle.

13. Connect the negative battery cable.

14. Start the engine several times to check starter motor operation

Note: Disconnect both batteries if the truck has more then one.

This information is listed in the owner's manual and under the hood on a placard.

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.044 inch for the 4.9 liter ( 300 cubic inch ) inline six cylinder and the 5.8

liter ( 351 cubic inch ) V8

.054 inch for the 5.0 liter ( 302 cubic inch ) V8

on a 1989 Ford F-150