Well, if you're experiencing a lot of bouncing when you go over bumps, it's time for new shocks. Excessive leaning in turns can be an indicator too. The old rule of thumb, is to push down hard on the fender (in your case, the rear fender) and let go after it goes as far down as it's going to. If it bounces up and down more than once or twice, it's time for new shocks. FriPilot

the only change I have seen in my 04 is a loss of gas milage. I have gone down from 18mpg to 15mpg. So it is now worth the 20 cents more...almost. Also with lower oct gas you run the risk or knocking or build up because it will not burn as hot as the higher octain. I do not suggest you put in an octain booster that can hurt your injectors.

usually when the check engine light comes on it is most likely to be a o2 sensor i had a 1990 legend and i had the light turned off and it came back on 5 minutes later the mechanic said it was an o2 sensor wasn't cheap to replace the part cost about 80 bucks and they charged me 75 to install because there is tool you need to twist off the sensor

If the booster has an internal leak, there is no workaround. Replace it. If the hose is just leaking, replace the hose. Salvage yard is a good source for a used one if a new one is very expensive. Get one off a car that has not been sitting in the salvage yard very long.

If you want to slim and/or firm up your butt i would suggest do a lot of squats. Stand with your feet shoulder width apart and bend your knees to a 90 degree angle. Lower your butt to knee level. Trust me it firms your butt keep at it.

If you mean the warning light just to the left of your engine temperature

gauge that means that the engine coolant level in the coolant reservoir is

low

http://www.discountcarstereo.com/pdf/xm6-frd04.pdf

Just to the left of the engine temperature gauge , at the center of the normal

operating temperature range . It is a symbol of a person wearing a seat belt with a

circle in front of them

You will need a ratchet and a strong friend. Put the ratchet on the bolt on the pulley that moves. You will know which one it is because when you turn it the belts wll loosen and tighten on the pulley. have some one hold the ratchet down so you can remove the belt from the pulley... pull it off. Remember how it came off to put it back on. Once you pull the belt off you can let the ratchet go. Put the belt parallel with the pulley and pull the ratchet down. WHen it loosens the pulleys slide the belt on and let the ratchet go. ZRemove ratchet. Don't start the car but tap the key forward 3 to 4 times to make sure the belt is on track. Then start it up!!

The 1999 Toyota 4-Runner SR5 Limited Edition requires the following tools to replace the fog lights.

1. 8MM Socket/Wrench (Optional)

2. #1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

First, you need to look behind the fog light from the under carriage view. You will notice the assembly has (1) 8mm bolt that fastens the assembly to the car.

From here you have 2 options.

The first option is to replace the bulb "in place." Which is to say that you will be lying on your back facing the under carriage of the vehicle.

If you choose this option you do not need to remove the fog light assembly, or the 8mm bolt that fastens the assembly to the vehicle. It is more cumbersome an operation at this vantage point. I prefer option two.

You should notice on the bottom of the assembly three small Phillips head screws on a cover that covers approximately 2/3 of the base of the assembly.

1. Remove the (3) #1 Phillips head screws.

2. Gently pull the cover out of your line of sight.

3. Locate the wires and gently pull the rubber cover out far enough so that you can unplug the two wires.

4. With the wires disconnected there is a small spring that resembles a paperclip more than a spring.

5. Press the spring to release the bulb.

6. Remove the old light and add the new one.

7. Connect the wires and press them back into the small cavity from which it was removed.

8. Gently place the cover back and tighten your screws.

Finished, test your installation.

Option 2 (Easier because you are not lying down)

1. Locate the fog light assembly

2. Using the 8mm socket, or wrench remove the 8mm bolt

3. Once removed, you may now remove the wiring at the connection point. There is a tiny white tab that you press to release the connector.

4. You should now be able to safely remove the assembly.

5. Once removed, follow the same procedure as in option 1.

6. When finished, reattach the fog lamp assembly following the instruction in reverse (steps 3, 2, 1)

Finished, test your installation.

Check fuses

Check Vacuum dump switch located at the upper end of the brake pedal (similar to brake light switch) for alignment and adjustment

Check the center stop light ( I don't know why, but they tell me if center brake does not work cruise will not work.) neither seem to have power but the fuses are all in good condition but no cruse ot traction control please help

In the trunk there are what looks like black wing nuts unscrew them and the pull back the carpet and there you will find the light sockets

The interior lights will stay on for about 30 seconds after the door is closed to allow those inside to see what they're doing. If the lights stay on after that, you may have a damaged door switch on one of the doors. You may also have the lights turned on manually, which is accomplished by rotating the headlight knob past the first stop. (Rotating the headlight knob dims or brightens the dash lighting. At maximum dash brightness there is a small "stop" in the knob rotation; rotating past this point will retain maximum dash brightness

Both the 2.3 liter four cylinder engine and the 3.0 liter V6 engine in a 2007

Ford Escape have timing CHAINS

5W-20 , according to the Owner Guide

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Just adding to the answer :

With engine oil filter change the 2.0 liter Zetec four cylinder engine in a 2004

Ford Escape takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts )

* 5W-20 as mentioned above

Pretty safe to say 5.5 quarts, and many owners say the engine readily handles 6 quarts.

the sizes are on the sticker on the drivers door

There are several things that can cause it. One of the door switches may be misadjusted, the headlight switch adjusted so the interior lights come on or a malfuncton in the headlight switch. You just have to check it out. those things check out fine. is there a module that could be the problem?

sounds liks it could be the starter selinoid ,if you have access to a used auto parts dealer i would recommend getting a used one and try first ,it cost less money and may last a long time . also most electrical parts are none returnable when purchased new .

On a 2009 Ford Escape , both engines ( 2.5 liter four cylinder and 3.0 liter

V6 ) use timing CHAINS

You said,

F14 in the engine compartment fuse box - also referred to as "PWR 1"

isn't that nice of Ford not to make it clear in the manual?

Thanks for the answer, however,

It got me close, but actually on my 2005 Escape it is fuse F12. In my manual, it labels to the console device in the picture as the "auxiliary power source". Makes sense. In the fuse block diagram (in this same manual), they label fuse F12 "power point". I thought that was a Microsoft product. ;-) Those wacky Ford folks... Anyway, I could see the fuse was blown when I removed it, so problem solved.