well, I'm glad I'm not the only one. I can't see it, i can barely get my hand in to feel around. tomorrow I'll find somebody to show me how to put the darn bulb in without having to disassemble half the car.
Just remove the headlight assembly above the turn signal/daylight running light in question. It will provide you with easy access.
that seems like the easy way to do this, but if you simply get under your Camaro unolt the first three bolts from the flap directly under where your head lights and turn signal lights are...then just stick your hand in there and wha la!
NO NO NO NO. It is very simple. Lift the front end enough to get comfortable access from underneath. Remove the access panel. Once you have noticed this, you will think you were an idiot.
Yes, the 2000 Olds Silouette has an engine oil cooler, as well as a transmission oil cooler for the automatic tranny. The engine oil cooler is built in to the engine oil filter housing. Water/coolant enters from the engine block, circulates around the filter housing and exits through a tube to the lower intake manifold. If an engine starts getting oil in the coolant and coolant in the engine oil, this could very well be the source of the problem. An internal leak.
We replaced ours and it cost 21.95 for a lifetime water pump.....My husband replaced it by himself...
It sounds as though the wiper arm that controls the wipers is attached backwards. I would call a mechanic and have the wiper motor taken off and put back on.
The wiper park arm on these cars are prone to failure.you will probably need a new one.Its attached directly to the wiper motor.If you are mechanically inclined you could probably change it yourself.You need to remove the wiper motor/wiper transmission from the car.the park arm is held onto the motor with one bolt on a splined shaft,they are difficult to syncronize correctly so make sure when you remove the old arm you note its position so you can line the new one up correctly
After you open the hood the whole headlight assembly can be removed by taking off the the two black plastic wing nuts on top holding the headlight assembly in. There is also another wing nut like bolt that is between the headlight assembly and turn signal assembly that must be removed. One you do this you have to lift up on the headlight assembly to clear the threaded studs that the plastic wing nuts were on and pull both headlight and turn signal light assemblies straight out. They both have to come out together. There are some clips that still hold all of this in, but it will come out when you pull it straight forward. I have done this several times and it seems kind of tricky the first time, but actually is pretty easy.
Hi, from experiance...Just go to any autoZone or kragens and they will loan out the code reader just by leaving your drivers licence with them while you use it..Just get the reader and plug it into your scart plug usually located just benieth your stiering colum lower panel.and follow the on screen directions or read the manual inside the readers box..it will alow you to clear all of the trouble codes and check engine light...but if it comes back on there could still be issues with your van...ok...hope this helps....
If your Intrigue is equipped with California Emissions controls (as my '00 is), you will find a third fuse box. It sits next to the regular fuse box in the engine compartment. In my 99 Oldsmobile Intrigue GL, my fuse box is on the passenger's side panel. I'm not sure if the Intrigue has multiple fuse boxes ? But, on my '99 GL - the fuse box is located under the hood ... behind the battery. It has a plastic cover. You may find a fuse puller inside - also, a diagram of the fuse locations is provided inside the cover along with spare fuses. My Olds Intrigue has both fuse panel locations. Behind the passengers door AND under the hood on the passengers side. The 1999 Intrigue has 2 fusebox locations...a larger fusebox under the passenger side of the hood, (unscrew the large turnhandle in the center of the box to open) which contains the larger fuses, a fuse puller, and the relays. There is also a fusebox on the interior of the passenger side...open the passenger door all the way up, and look at the side of the console panel, between the glovebox and the door. There should be a "finger hole" for you to pull open. It may be VERY hard to get open; mine is. Here you will find the smaller fuses. A diagram of the contents are on the inside of both lids.
Gm had a recall on this. Take it to a dealer to do it for free.
I take it that we're talking about a 3.4L V6. If this is the case and you are a relatively handy mechanic it's possible. If not take it to the dealer or a good mechanic who can put it on a lift and possibly get at the rear plugs from underneath. If you still want to do the job yourself go out and buy the Haynes Service Manual for your van; it'll cost you about $20 and is worth every penny. The plugs are good for over 100K Mi and if you have less mileage, any misfire might be from some other cause. Look at the front plugs to check their condition, the rear plugs should be the same and are much harder to get at. Here is the short and sweet of it. First you'll have to rotate the engine forward to get at the rear plugs, to do this remove the the air cleaner, intake air plumbing, and front engine stabilizers. Disconnect the exhaust flange from the engine to the exhaust pipe, from underneath the car remember to use a good set of jack stands on stable ground, when you're working under a ton or two of sharp metal you can never be too safe. Remove the upper radiator hose then put a come-a-long or ratchet tie down strap on the engine lift point and to one of the bolts left after removing the stabalizers, then winch the engine forward exposing more of the rear of the engine. As I remember you'll have to remove the EGR Valve, possibly the upper intake manifold, the ignition coil pack and the canister vent valve which mounts on the back of the coils, getting at these rear bolts is a bear, I wouldn't replace them just put the vent valve on the studs the ignition coil on top of that and let the front bolts hold the ignition coils down, it's worked fine for me for over 100 K Mi. Heed the next step, it's important so you don't have to go through the rest of your life known as Lefty. Before you put your arms behind the engine, double up the tie down strap, if one falls off it'll break and pin your arms behind the engine, safety again. As you can see this is a relatively involved process, more from the number of steps than any complexity. There are many hidden bolts and the manual is essential, number or mark all cables you remove although none will fit any of the plugs except where their suppose to go. Take pictures, and do everything that needs to be done in the back, don't be like me and not change the O2 Sensor trying to save $50 just to have to do it all over again in 6 months. Good luck, be safe 94 It doesn't need to be that much work. I just drove the car up on a set of ramps (good quality plastic ones, not the cheap stamped steel). Then you can reach up next to the exhaust downpipe and remove the three back-side spark plugs. You need to allow about 45 minutes before the exhaust is cool enough to work around, start with the front plugs. Getting the spark plug wire boots off the plugs was the biggest challenge. They tend to seal down and don't want to come free. If I had to do it again (and I doubt I will given the 100k life of the plugs) I'd just replace all the wires too, so there's no need to be gentle removing the boots. Use dielectric grease on the plug boots when you reinstall. Answer: Nightmare! Next time i'd like to cut a hole in the firewall to get to them. This vechical should come with lifetime spark plugs. It can be done with alot of work.
I have a 1995 Silhouette. If you're standing in front of your van, facing it, the oil filter is located at the left rear of the engine. I can best reach mine by lying down with by head at the rear of the passenger side front tire. Looking through the frame, you should be able to see it. It's a little tricky to reach, but not too bad. Hope this helps. JK
It mounts in the rear manifold at back of motor just after the 3 cylinders piping converges into the single outlet - there will be a silver cover on it and a wire (usually black that comes to a connector about 6 " away. You can use a wrench (about 1" size) or a specific tool to remove it. Do this with engine cold or the threads will risk being damaged. The new sensor comes with special beaded lubricant for thethreads on the O2 sensor. Be sure to use it BUT be careful not to get any on the sensor itself. The job can be bit aggravating but not too terribly difficult.
Behind the right rear panel, behind the right sliding door.
As far as my limited experience dictates, you have to take the inside door panel off. Handles and all the supporting stuff for the window power connections and so forth. Then spray white lithium grease on what you can see connected to the handle movement. Not much place the lube it from the outside of the door, in or out.
It's not too difficult to replace the Body Control Module. If you know what you are doing you can do it in about 2 hours. I just got through doing it on my 1996 Caravan. The BCM is mounted on the back of the fuse box under the dash on the driver's side. 1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the under-dash panel (plastic cover panel, metal panel, and metal brace.) You will also need to disconnect the handle for the emergency brake.
3. Remove three large screws holding fuse box in place (two on right and one on left.)
4. Remove the electrical connections at the bottom of the BCM. Avoid breaking the plastic retaining clips if possible. To release the clips push in at the tip.
5. You should now be able to pull the fuse box down a few inches, which is all you need.
6. Remove the screws holding the BCM to the fuse box, two screws on the right and one on the left.
7. Slide the BCM down and out to remove it from the back of the fuse box. Reverse the procedure to put the new BCM in place. If you broke the retaining clips on the connectors you will need to use duct tape to hold them in place.
Engine Size? Anyways, look on one of the valve covers, I believe you will find it there.
If the windows are not working and all the fuses are good.. The problem lies in the door.. The rubber boot between the dooor and fender flexes everytime the door is opened and closed what happens is the wire breaks in there. just open the boot with a knife and pull on the wires a little . The broken wires will expose themselves quite easily. Usually an BLUE or White wire. repair them and the windows will work again..
Take it to the mechanic
The engine coolant sensor is at the rear of the right cylinder head on the 2001.There are several more temp sensors insdie the pass compartment.
4.5 quarts with filter replacement. 4 quarts w/o.
whic is your problem with the sliding door? I have a old sil 99 and I need to change all completely motor and mechanism, I got in a yonke here on Mexico.
I have a 97 olds silhoutte with the same problem. My mechanic said they have to drain the fuel tank, replace what ever detects the gasoline, and put it back together. You are looking at some hefty dollars. I've chosen not to do it but to just change my trip meter everytime I get gas. Whether my mechanic was pulling my leg or not...it said it could cost upwards to a 1000.00 to do the job. Knowing I get about 16 to 18 miles to the gal locally and upwards to about 24 to 26 on the highway....I don't have a problem watching the trip odometer.
Just to add. We did the same thing with our trip odometer until the fuel pump gave out. The gauge and pump are all part of the same assembly and can't replaced seperately. It cost around $600 when our mechanic did the work. The scary part about the gauge is, we got used to the odometer thing and thought we would do it for ever, until the van decided to die in a parking lot. It wasn't any fun getting out of work to go coordinate getting a tow truck to come pick the van up.
I have the same problem with my 1997 Silohoutte and my mechanic told me that it would need fuel sending unit.. spend big bucks!!
The fuel gauge doesn't have to be replaced when you replace the sending unit/ fuel pump--your mechanic snowed you. If it pegs to the right all the time--then it's your gauge, if it does whatever it wants when it wants it is your sending unit/ fuel pump.
Just to add....both of you or all of you could be correct. The fuel level sender is an electronic switch with an arm attached on the side of the fuel pump. It is usually integrally molded with the pump, however in this case, it can be replaced seperately. The downside to this is you do have to remove the fuel tank and then the fuel pump is likely to go out shortly after replacing it. GM is known for having a poor pigtail design on these senders, causing a short. This will cause the gauge to read full all the time. You can try to lower the tank, then replace the fuel pump pigtail(both female and male ends), or attempt to repair the wires on the top of the tank. The old style design caused the wires to rub on top of the tank, thus causing it to ground to the tank and short circuit the gauge. If I were to drop the tank on the van and it had more than 80k miles, I would replace the fuel pump module(assembly) though because GM is not known for having the most reliable pumps.
Toward the rear of the engine is a schrader valve ( looks like a tire valve with a cap) when you depress the valve there should be a fair amount of fuel pressure but when there is very little it most likely is the pump; GM vehicles have their share of fuel pump problems.Good luck.
== == AutoZone has a nice step-by-step guide at http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/e9/79/0900823d801be979/repairInfoPages.htm If they change their site, the original answer to this question follows....
changed one in a 1990 just today,first off,the water pump will most likely need replaced,,if there the same<90 95> which in my research 1990 to 96 or 98are the same this is what we did disconnect battery then remove the panels right under your glove box to expose the heater core you have to disconnect the hose from the heater core from under the hood "very tight squeeze"then pull the heater core out from in the van and put new one in sounds simple but its not that took three to 4 hours and we are not done, know the water pump needs replaced.."good luck"if your hoses are the origanal you may need to cut them out."we did" you will be told to remove the whole dash to get to heater core we did not, be very careful with new heater core putting it back up in there, but it should just fit back in the way you took out the old one.maybe i can go out and take pictures for you..anyway if the 90 and 95 are different im sorry but i was told there the same so good luck "its a royal pain"if you have more specific question please ask. all yeah drain the antifreeze out the screws we removed were 7mm you need pliers you need clamps and possibly new hose
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